Dogwerry, a free knitting pattern from Knitty.com. Free knitting pattern for a colorwork top-down sock with cool patterning. This pattern was named by a Neural Net.

INTRODUCTION

Dogwerry

beauty shot by Kate Atherley

Tangy

Although I love the results, I'm not keen on the process to work a stranded colourwork sock. I find that they can be challenging to knit, and to fit. Slipped stitch colourwork provides an excellent solution: you only work with one colour at a time, reducing the yarn management issues and the tightness of the fabric.

This slipped stitch pattern reminded me a bit of a classic argyle motif, and allowed me to combine two excellent yarns. With the cold weather approaching, I've used both an alpaca blend sock yarn, and a silk-blend, for extra warmth.

Because the stitch pattern is a large repeat, and doesn't lend itself easily to grading, I've created four sizes from two stitch counts by using different needle sizes for the legs. For all sizes, the heel flap, heel turn and foot are worked on the same size (smaller) needle to create a long-wearing sock-appropriate fabric.

I've worked the heel flap and turn in a two-color version of the classic eye of Partridge pattern, which I found in a 1970s vintage French stitch dictionary. Its handsome, cozy and reinforced. My heel turn of choice, the square heel, allows you to easily continue the reinforcement down into the turn.

As always, the sock uses my particular favorite no-graft toe. If you really feel that you need to close the toe with grafting, stop decreasing when about a third of the stitches remain – ensuring you have the same number of stitches on both instep and sole.

spacer model: Christopher Leung

spacer photos: Amy Singer

SIZE

Adult XS[S, M, L]

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Foot circumference: 6.75[7.25, 7.75, 8.25] inches/17[18.5, 19.5, 21] cm
Leg length: 6 [6.5, 6, 6.5] inches/15[16, 15, 16] cm as shown, adjustable to preference
Foot length: adjustable to preference

Choose a size with approximately 1 inch/2.5 cm negative ease in the foot circumference.

MATERIALS

Yarn
[MC] Regia Premium Alpaca Soft [62% wool, 23% nylon, 15% alpaca; 339yd/310m per 100 g ball]; color: 00050, 1 ball
[CC] Regia Premium Silk [55% wool, 25% nylon, 20% silk; 437yd/400m per 100 g ball]; color: 00002, 1 ball

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below - every knitter's gauge is unique]
For S and L sizes only:
US #2/2.75mm needles for small circumference in the round: DPNs, 1 long circular for magic loop, or 2 short circulars, as you prefer
For all sizes:
US #1.5/2.5mm needles for small circumference in the round: DPNs, 1 long circular for magic loop, or 2 short circulars, as you prefer

Notions
yarn needle

GAUGE

32 sts/48 rounds = 4 inches/10 cm in stockinette stitch on smaller needle
30 sts/46 rounds = 4 inches/10 cm in stockinette stitch on larger needle
34 sts/56 rounds = 4 inches/10 cm in slipped stitch pattern on smaller needle
32 sts/48 rounds = 4 inches/10 cm in slipped stitch pattern on larger needle

PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

Sl 1 wyib: Slip 1 st purlwise with yarn in back.
Sl 1 wyif: Slip 1 st purlwise with yarn in front.

Techniques:

CHARTS

Leg Pattern
Work from chart or written instructions as you prefer.

Rounds 1-2: With CC, knit.
Rounds 3-4: With MC, k4, sl 1 wyib, k5.
Rounds 5-6: With CC, knit.
Rounds 7-8: With MC, k3, (sl 1 wyib, k1) twice, k3.
Rounds 9-10: With CC, knit.
Rounds 11-12: With MC, k2, (sl 1 wyib, k1) three times, k2.
Rounds 13-14: With CC, knit.
Rounds 15-16: With MC, (k1, sl 1 wyib) four times, k2.
Rounds 17-18: With CC, knit.
Rounds 19-20: (Sl 1 wyib, k1) five times.
Rounds 21-22: With CC, knit.
Rounds 23-24: With MC, (k1, sl 1 wyib) four times, k2.
Rounds 25-26: With CC, knit.
Rounds 27-28: With MC, k2, (sl 1 wyib, k1) three times, k2.
Rounds 29-30: With CC, knit.
Rounds 31-32: With MC, k3, (sl 1 wyib, k1) twice, k3.
Rounds 33-34: With CC, knit.
Rounds 35-36: With MC, k4, sl 1 wyib, k5.

Instep Pattern
Work from chart or written instructions as you prefer.
Rounds 1-2: With MC, k4, (sl 1 wyib, k9) twice, sl 1 wyib, k4. (29 sts)
Rounds 3-4: With CC, knit.
Rounds 5-6: With MC, k3, (sl 1 wyib, k1, sl 1 wyib, k7) twice, sl 1 wyib, k1, sl 1 wyib, k3.
Rounds 7-8: With CC, knit.
Rounds 9-10: With MC, k2, (sl 1 wyib, k1) three times, k4) twice, (sl 1 wyib, k1) twice, sl 1 wyib, k2.
Rounds 11-12: With CC, knit.
Rounds 13-14: With MC, (k1, sl 1 wyib) four times, k2) twice, (k1, sl 1 wyib) four times, k1.
Rounds 15-16: With CC, knit.
Rounds 17-18: (Sl 1 wyib, k1) fourteen times, sl 1 wyib.
Rounds 19-20: With CC, knit.
Rounds 21-22: (With MC, (k1, sl 1 wyib) four times, k2) twice, (k1, sl 1 wyib) four times, k1.
Rounds 23-24: With CC, knit.
Rounds 25-26: With MC, k2, (sl 1 wyib, k1) three times, k4) twice, (sl 1 wyib, k1) twice, sl 1 wyib, k2.
Rounds 27-28: With CC, knit.
Rounds 29-30: With MC, k3, (sl 1 wyib, k1, sl 1 wyib, k7) twice, sl 1 wyib, k1, sl 1 wyib, k3.
Rounds 31-32: With CC, knit.
Rounds 33-34: With MC, k4, (sl 1 wyib, k9) twice, sl 1 wyib, k4.
Rounds 35-36: With CC, knit.

DIRECTIONS

Cuff - Both Socks
Using smaller needles, MC and your favorite stretchy method (Long Tail or German Twisted), CO 56[60, 64, 68] sts. Distribute sts across needles as you prefer and join for working in the round.

Ribbing round: [K2, p2] around.

Work ribbing as set for 1.5[1.75, 2, 2.25] inches/ 4[4.5, 5, 5.5] cm. For a longer leg, add more rounds in the ribbing.

Next round, size XS only: (K14, m1r) 4 times. 60 sts.
Next round, size S only: Knit.
Next round, size M only: (K11, m1r, k10, m1r, k11, m1r) twice. 70 sts.
Next round, size L only: (K34, m1) twice. 70 sts.

For XS and M sizes, continue with the smaller needles.
For S and L sizes, change to the larger needles. Join CC.

Upper Leg round: Work Leg Pattern 6[6, 7, 7] times around.
 Work as set until you have completed 2 full repeats of the pattern.

Heel Flap
Note: There's a bit of fussing in the setup for the Heel Flaps and Turns, to reposition the yarn and the start of the round. It's not difficult, and in a couple of cases may seem like a very minor thing, but it's important to make sure the patterning is lined up neatly, and to position the start of round seam on the inside of the leg.

Right sock only:
Slip the last 1[1, 8, 8] sts of the round back to the start of the round. The Heel Flap will start in this position, and will be worked over 31[31, 35, 35] sts. The rem 29[29, 35, 35] sts will be held for the instep. For the larger 2 sizes, you'll need to cut and rejoin the yarns; for the smaller sizes the yarns will be readily accessible.

Left sock only:
Slip the last 31[31, 38, 38] sts of the round back to the start of the round. The Heel Flap will start in this position, and will be worked over 31[31, 35, 35] sts. The rem 29[29, 35, 35] sts will be held for the instep. You'll need to cut and rejoin the yarns in this spot.

Both socks, continue:
For S and L sizes, change to the smaller needles.

Row 1 [RS]: With MC, [sl 1 wyib, k1] 15[15, 17, 17] times, k1, turn.
Row 2 [WS]: With MC, sl 1 wyif, p 30[30, 34, 34] , turn.
Row 3: With CC, [k1, sl 1 wyib] 15[15, 17, 17] times, k1, turn.
Row 4: With CC, sl 1 wyif, p 30[30, 34, 34] , turn.
Repeat Rows 1-4 7[8, 8, 9] more times, and work Rows 1-2 once more.

Heel Turn
Note: The reinforcement pattern will continue through the heel turn. To save having to cut and rejoin the MC yarn for Row 3, when you work Row 1 with CC below, carry/strand the MC yarn along for the first 10[10, 12, 12] sts. What I did, since I'm not a brilliant stranded colorwork knitter, was twist the MC working yarn around the CC a couple of times in that stretch. Leave the MC there and it will be ready for you when it's time to work Row 3.

Heel turn row 1 [RS]: With CC, [k1, sl 1 wyib] 10[10, 11, 11] times, k1, ssk, turn.
Heel turn row 2 [WS]: With CC, sl 1 pwise wyif, p 11[11, 11, 11] , p2tog, turn.
Heel turn row 3 [RS]: With MC, [sl 1 wyib, k1] 5[5, 5, 5] times, sl1 wyib, ssk, turn.
Heel turn row 4 [WS]: With MC, sl 1 pwise wyif, p 11[11, 11, 11] , p2tog, turn.
Heel turn row 5 [RS]: With CC, [k1, sl 1 wyib] 5[5, 5, 5] times, k1, ssk, turn.
Heel turn row 6 [WS]: With CC, sl 1 pwise wyif, p 11[11, 11, 11] , p2tog, turn.

Repeat Heel turn rows 3-6 until all heel stitches have been worked. 13[13, 13, 13] sts rem.

Gusset – Right Sock only
Resume working at the end of the 29[29, 35, 35] held instep sts. Cut the two yarns and rejoin them here.

Starting with MC:

For the XS and S sizes, work instep as per Instep Pattern.
For the M and L sizes, work instep as follows: k3, work Instep Pattern, k3.

Gusset setup round 1: Using MC, with RS facing, pick up and knit 19[21, 21, 23] sts along the first edge of the heel flap, down towards the heel; knit across 13 heel sts, pick up and knit 19[21, 21, 23] sts along the second edge of the heel flap; work across Instep in pattern as set (see Note above). This is the new start of round/start of instep; rearrange sts as you prefer. 80[84, 90, 94] sts.

Gusset setup round 2: With MC, k 19[21, 21, 23] tbl, k13, k 19[21, 21, 23] tbl, work across instep in pattern as set.

Resume stripe pattern, alternating CC and MC.

Gusset round 1: K1, ssk, knit to 3 sts before instep, k2tog, k1; work across instep in pattern as set. 2 sts decreased.
Gusset round 2: Knit to instep; work across instep in pattern as set.

Gusset – Left Sock only
Resume working at the start of the 29[29, 35, 35] held instep sts. Cut the two yarns and rejoin them here.

Starting with MC:

For the XS and S sizes, work instep as per the Instep Chart.
For the M and L sizes, work instep as follows: k3, work Instep Chart, k3. You'll be working with MC.

Gusset setup round 1: Work across Instep in pattern as set (see note above); with RS facing, pick up and knit 19[21, 21, 23] sts along the first edge of the heel flap, down towards the heel; knit across 13 heel sts, pick up and knit 19[21, 21, 23] sts along the second edge of the heel flap. This is the new start of round/start of instep; rearrange sts as you prefer. 80[84, 90, 94] sts.

Gusset setup round 2: With MC, work across instep in pattern as set; k1 9[21, 21, 23] tbl, k13, k 19[21, 21, 23] tbl.

Resume stripe pattern, alternating CC and MC.

Gusset round 1: Work across instep in pattern as set; k1, ssk, knit to 3 sts before instep, k2tog, k1. 2 sts decreased.
Gusset round 2: Work across instep in pattern as set; knit to end of round.

Both Socks, Continue
Repeat Gusset rounds 1-2 10[10, 11, 11] more times. 58[62, 66, 70] sts.

Foot
Work even in pattern as set until you have completed 2 full repeats of the Instep pattern.

Continue even in stripe pattern only until foot measures 1.75[2, 2, 2] inches/ 4.5[5, 5, 5] cm short of desired finished length.

Toe
Continue the stripe pattern throughout the toe. Because of the position of the start of the round, the decreases for the S and M Sizes will be positioned slightly differently.

Note: the instructions refer to the first and second half of the round. If you're working the Right sock, the First half of the round is the sole; if you're working the Left sock, the first half of the round is the instep. Arrange your stitches so you can identify the center of the round.

XS and L Sizes Only:
Decrease round: K1, ssk, knit to 3 sts before the center of the round, k2tog, k1; k1, ssk, k to 3 sts before end of round, k2tog, k1. 4 sts decreased.

S Size only:
LEFT SOCK Decrease round: Ssk, knit to 2 sts before the center of the round (the end of instep), k2tog; k2, ssk, knit to 4 sts before end of sole, k2tog, k2. 4 sts decreased.

RIGHT SOCK Decrease round: K2, ssk, knit to 4 sts before end of sole, k2tog, k2; ssk, knit to 2 sts before end of round, k2tog. 4 sts decreased.

M Size only:
LEFT SOCK Decrease round: K2, ssk, knit to 4 sts before the center of the round (the end of instep), k2tog, k2; ssk, knit to 2 sts before end of sole, k2tog. 4 sts decreased.

RIGHT SOCK Decrease round: Ssk, knit to 2 sts before the end of sole, k2tog; k2, ssk, knit to 4 sts before end of round, k2tog, k2. 4 sts decreased.

All Sizes/Both Feet, Continue:
Work 3 rounds even in pattern.
Work [Decrease round followed by 2 even rounds] two times.
Work [Decrease round followed by 1 even round] three times.
Work Decrease round every round until 10 sts rem. Cut yarn and pull through final sts to secure.

FINISHING

Wash to block and weave in ends. Sock blockers aren't necessary, the socks will stretch out nicely on your feet.

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

designername Kate is rather a fan of interesting socks that fit well. Did you know she wrote a whole book about it?

You can see more of her work at kateatherley.com, and on Ravelry.