INTRODUCTION

Lemon Zest

by Merri Fromm

What to wear on a cold, grey winter day? Yellow! Zesty yellow with just a bit of silky shine! This pullover will cheer you up and keep you warm.

This pullover is worked in the round without seams, from the bottom up with a wide hemmed bottom edge and retro hemmed wide collar. The sleeves are picked up from the shaped armholes which are roomy enough to allow heavier shirts underneath.

model: Merri Fromm

photos: Gaius Nelson

SIZE

women's XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X, 6X]
shown in size L with 1.5 inches/4 cm of ease


FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Chest/Bust: 30.5[34.5, 38.5, 42.5, 46.5, 50.5, 54.5, 58.5, 62.5, 66.5] inches/
77.5[87.5, 98, 108, 118, 128.5, 138.5, 148.5, 159, 169] cm
Shoulder to Hem Length: 21.25[21.25, 23.5, 24, 24.5, 25.25, 25.75, 26, 26.25, 26.75] inches/ 54[54, 59.5, 61, 62, 64, 65.5, 66, 66.5, 68] cm

MATERIALS

Yarn
einrum L+2 [92% pure Icelandic wool, 8% pure thai silk; 102yd/93m per 50 gram skein]; 2012 the burn; 8[9, 9, 10, 10, 11, 11, 12, 12, 13] skeins

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below - every knitter's gauge is unique]
1 US 9/5.5mm circular needle, 32-inch/80-cm
1 US 8/5.0mm circular needle, 32-inch/80-cm
1 US 9/5.5mm circular needle, 16-inch/40-cm
1 US 8/5.0mm circular needle, 16-inch/40-cm
1 set US 8/5.0 mm needles for working small circumference in the round

Notions
waste yarn
2 stitch markers
stitch holders
yarn needle

GAUGE

15 sts/24 rows [or rounds, as applicable] = 4 inches/10 cm in stockinette stitch
Note: gauge is always taken after blocking.

PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

This garment is worked seamlessly in the round from the bottom up. The body begins with a folded hem and then is worked to the underarms in stockinette stitch without shaping. Work the body with a needle length closest to the finished bust measurement.

This sweater is then split at the underarms and the front and back are finished separately. The shoulder seams are finished by using 3-needle bind off as instructed, or alternatively by binding off each shoulder and seaming them together. Set in sleeve stitches are picked up at the armholes and worked top down.

Short Row Sleeve cap:
When working the wrap of the short row stitches, knit/purl wrapped sts through the back loop.

Crochet Cast On:

Using smooth waste yarn (linen or cotton work well), work a crochet chain several sts longer than the number of sts to be cast on. Starting 1 or 2 sts in from end of chain and using working yarn, pick up and knit 1 st in the back loop of each chain until the required number of sts have been picked up.

When the hem is turned, stitches from the CO will be worked together with the sts on the needle. This may be done in several ways:

1. The waste yarn can be removed and the resulting live stitches placed on spare needles, which are held to the back of the work. Then each stitch from a working needle is worked together with a corresponding stitch from a spare needle.
2. The waste yarn crochet chain can be gradually unraveled as the row is worked, with each loop of the chain being released as the stitch it holds is worked together with a stitch from the needle.
3. The cast on stitches may be worked together with the stitches on the needle before the crochet chain is removed, and the chain may be unraveled afterwards. If you choose to use this method, it is advisable to first practice on a swatch.

Rib Pattern (multiple of 4 sts)

Rnd 1: *K2, p2; repeat from * to end.

Rep Rnd 1 for patt.

DIRECTIONS

HEM
Using smaller long circular needle and crochet cast-on, provisionally CO 116[130, 146, 160, 176, 190, 206, 220, 236, 250] sts, picking up sts from chain with yarn. Pm for beg of rnd and join to work in the rnd.

Knit 12 rounds.

Change to larger needle.

Next rnd: Purl (this is the fold round).
Next rnd: Knit for 9 rounds.

Remove waste yarn and place provisionally cast on sts onto smaller needle. Allowing the hem to fold naturally at the purl row, with the provisionally cast on sts held behind, *knit 1 st from front needle together with 1 st from back needle; rep from * until all sts have been worked.

Next rnd: Knit, placing removable marker after first 58[65, 73, 80, 88, 95, 103, 110, 118, 125] sts to mark side "seam."

Next rnd: *P1, knit to marker; repeat from * to end of round.

Body
Continue in pattern as set until body measures 14[14, 15.5, 15.5, 15.5, 16, 16, 16, 16, 16] inches/ 35.5[35.5, 39.5, 39.5, 39.5, 40.5, 40.5, 40.5, 40.5, 40.5] cm or desired length to underarm.

Separate for Back and Front:

Back
Next rnd: Work in pattern as set to beginning of round marker. Remove marker. Place previously worked 58[65, 73, 80, 88, 95, 103, 110, 118, 125] sts stitches (to side marker) on holder. Cont on rem sts for back, knitting flat.

Armhole shaping:
BO 1[1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 6, 6, 6] sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 56[63, 69, 74, 80, 85, 91, 98, 106, 113] sts.

BO 0[1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 6, 6, 6] sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 56[61, 65, 68, 72, 75, 79, 86, 94, 101] sts.

BO 0[1, 2, 3, 4 4, 5, 6, 6, 6, ] sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 56[59, 61, 62, 64, 67, 69, 74, 82, 89] sts.

Continue in pattern until work measures 6.25[6.25, 7, 7.5, 8, 8.25, 8.75, 9, 9.25, 9.75] inches/ 16[16, 18, 19, 20.5, 21, 22, 23, 23.5, 25] cm from beginning of armhole shaping, ending with a WS row.

Back Neckline shaping:
Row 1 [RS]: K 16[17, 17, 17, 17, 18, 17, 19, 22, 25] sts, join second ball of yarn, BO next 24[25, 27, 28, 30, 31, 35, 36, 38, 39] sts, knit to end.

Note: In the directions that follow, a semi-colon will indicate a break between the two sets of sts, each set with its own ball of yarn attached.

Row 2 [WS]: (left shoulder) P 16[17, 17, 17, 17, 18, 17, 19, 22, 25] ; (right shoulder) purl to end.

Row 3: (right shoulder) K 16[17, 17, 17, 17, 18, 17, 19, 22, 25] ; (left shoulder) BO 4[4, 3, 3, 3, 3, 2, 2, 3, 5] , knit to end.

Row 4: (left shoulder) P 12[13, 14, 14, 14, 15, 15, 17, 19, 20] ; (right shoulder) BO 4[4, 3, 3, 3, 3, 2, 2, 2, 4] , purl to end.

Row 5: (right shoulder) K 12[13, 14, 14, 14, 15, 15, 17, 19, 20] ; (left shoulder) BO 4[4, 3, 3, 3, 3, 2, 2, 2, 4] , knit to end.

Row 6: (left shoulder) P 8[9, 11, 11, 11, 12, 13, 15, 17, 16] ; (right shoulder) BO 4[4, 3, 3, 3, 3, 2, 2, 2, 4] , purl to end.

Break yarn and place each set of 8[9, 11, 11, 11, 12, 13, 15, 17, 16] shoulder sts on a separate holder.

Front
Place 58[65, 73, 80, 88, 95, 103, 110, 118, 125] sts held for front on needle. Cont on rem sts for front, knitting flat.

Armhole shaping:
BO 1[1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 6, 6, 6] sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 56[63, 69, 74, 80, 85, 91, 98, 106, 113] sts.

BO 0[1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 6, 6, 6] sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 56[61, 65, 68, 72, 75, 79, 86, 94, 101] sts.

BO 0[1, 2, 3, 4 4, 5, 6, 6, 6, ] sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 56[59, 61, 62, 64, 67, 69, 74, 82, 89] sts.

Continue in pattern until work measures 5.25[5.25, 6, 6.5, 7, 7.25, 7.75, 8, 8.25, 8.75] inches/ 13.5[13.5, 15, 16.5, 18, 18.5, 19.5, 20.5, 21, 22] cm from beginning of armhole shaping, ending with a WS row.

Front Neckline shaping:
Row 1 [RS]: (left shoulder) K 19[20, 21, 21, 21, 22, 23, 25, 28, 31] , join second ball of yarn, BO next 18[19, 19, 20, 22, 23, 23, 24, 26, 27] sts, knit to end (right shoulder).

Note: In the directions that follow, a semi-colon will indicate a break between the two sets of sts, each set with its own ball of yarn attached.

Row 2 [WS]: (right shoulder) P 19[20, 21, 21, 21, 22, 23, 25, 28, 31] ; (left shoulder) BO 3[3, 3, 3, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3] , purl to end.

Row 3: (left shoulder) K 16[17, 18, 18, 19, 20, 20, 22, 25, 28] ; (right shoulder) BO 3[3, 3, 3, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3] , knit to end.

Row 4: (right shoulder) P 16[17, 18, 18, 19, 20, 20, 22, 25, 28] ; (left shoulder) BO 2[2, 3, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3] , purl to end.

Row 5: (left shoulder) K 14[15, 15, 16, 17, 18, 18, 20, 22, 25] ; (right shoulder) BO 2[2, 3, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3] , knit to end.

Row 6: (right shoulder) P 14[15, 15, 16, 17, 18, 18, 20, 22, 25] ; (left shoulder) BO 2[2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 3] , purl to end.

Row 7: (left shoulder) K 12[13, 13, 14, 15, 16, 16, 18, 20, 22] ; (right shoulder) BO 2[2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 3] , knit to end.

Row 8: (right shoulder) P 12[13, 13, 14, 15, 16, 16, 18, 20, 22] ; (left shoulder) BO 2[2, 1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 3] , purl to end.

Row 9: (left shoulder) K 10[11, 12, 12, 13, 14, 14, 16, 18, 19] ; (right shoulder) BO 2[2, 1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 3] , knit to end.

Row 10: (right shoulder) P 10[11, 12, 12, 13, 14, 14, 16, 18, 19] ; (left shoulder) BO 2[2, 1, 1, 2, 2, 1, 1, 1, 3] , purl to end.

Row 11: (left shoulder) K 8[9, 11, 11, 11, 12, 13, 15, 17, 16] ; (right shoulder) BO 2[2, 1, 1, 2, 2, 1, 1, 1, 3] , knit to end.

Row 12: (right shoulder) P 8[9, 11, 11, 11, 12, 13, 15, 17, 16] ; (left shoulder) p 8[9, 11, 11, 11, 12, 13, 15, 17, 16] .

Break yarn and place each set of 8[9, 11, 11, 11, 12, 13, 15, 17, 16] shoulder sts on a separate holder.

With WS facing, join fronts and back at shoulders using the 3-Needle Bind Off.

SLEEVES

Short Row Sleeve cap:
With RS facing, using larger 16-inch/40 cm circ and starting at center of underarm, pick up and 35[35, 39, 41, 44, 45, 47, 48, 50, 52] sts to shoulder seam, place marker, then pick up and knit 35[35, 39, 41, 44, 45, 47, 48, 50, 52] sts to center of underarm BO. Place marker and join to work in the round. 70[70, 78, 82, 88, 90, 94, 96, 100, 104] sts.

Knit 1 rnd.

Next row: Knit to 1st marker (at top of shoulder), sm, k1, wrap and turn next st.
Next row: P1, sm, p1, wrap and turn next st.

Next row: Knit to wrapped st (picking up wrap with st and knitting through back loop), k1, wrap and turn next st.
Next row: Purl back to wrapped st (picking up wrap with st and purling through back loop), p1, wrap and turn st.

Repeat last 2 rows until the st wraps reach the BOR marker.

Knit one round picking up last wrapped st as you come to it and removing shoulder marker.

Sleeve decreases:
Decrease rnd: K1, k2tog, knit until 3 sts remain, ssk, k1. 2 sts decreased.
Rnd 2: Knit 4[4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8] rounds.

Repeat the last 5[5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 8, 9] rounds 12[12, 14, 12, 13, 10, 10, 9, 9, 9] more times. 44[44, 48, 56, 60, 68, 72, 76, 80, 84] sts.

Work even in St st until sleeve measures  12.5[13, 14, 14.25, 14.25, 14.25, 14.5, 14.5, 15, 15.5] inches /  32[33, 35.5, 36, 36, 36, 37, 37, 38, 39.5] cm from underarm, or 4 inches / 10 cm shorter than desired total length.

Change to smaller double pointed needles.
Work Rib patt for 4 inches /10 cm.
BO in Rib patt.
Repeat for second sleeve.

Collar
With RS facing, using larger 16-inch/40 cm circ and starting at center back, pick up and knit 77[80, 80, 82, 85, 88, 90, 95, 104, 117] sts evenly.
Place marker and join to work in the round.

Knit 8 rounds.

Purl one round.

With smaller 16-inch/40 cm circ needle, knit 9 rounds.

BO loosely. Fold at purl rnd and blind stitch collar into place. Alternatively, you may bind off by picking up stitches from the neck edge with a spare needle and working a 3-Needle Bind Off.

FINISHING

Weave in ends and block to measurements.

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Merri lives in St. Paul, Minnesota, where she designs hand knits while also working as a graphic designer and wellness coach.

You'll find more of her work at tangletownknits and on Ravelry.

Pattern & images © 2019 Merri Fromm.