Recently I woke in the night to find one half of my mind fretting
over things I couldn’t change, and the other designing
a hat that incorporated all my tossing and turning and trailing
after the worrying part of my brain – plus a tidy way to
incorporate crown decreases into a cable.
In the morning,
I started knitting.
model: Mary
Keenan photos: Mary
Keenan, Pete Gillespie
SIZE
Adult S [M, L] Light grey version shown in size M
Dark grey version shown in size
L
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS Circumference: 13[14.5, 16] inches, unstretched – comfortably
stretches to fit heads 20[22, 24] inches in circumference Length: 6.75[7, 7.25] inches
MATERIALS
Yarn
St.
Denis ‘Nordique’ [100% American Wool; 150 yd per 50g
ball]; 1[1, 1] ball Light
grey version uses color #5803 Grey
Card Dark
grey version uses color #5809 Pewter
Recommended needle size [always use a needle
size that gives you the gauge
listed below -- every knitter's
gauge is unique] US
#6/4mm needles [16-inch circular
for body of hat, DPNs or long circ for crown decreases]
Notions stitch
marker cable
needle yarn
needle
GAUGE
21 sts/26 rounds = 4 inches
in stockinette stitch
22 sts/30 rounds = 4
inches in pattern stitch
PATTERN NOTES [Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]
Sleepless is succinct in length, both
to keep it from being pushed out of place by a coat collar and
to ensure it's a quick, giftable knit demanding just one 50g
ball of yarn. If yardage is not a problem and you wish to make
it longer, simply add repeats of Band rounds 1 and 2 (gaining
approximately a quarter inch each time) and/or Body rounds 1
to 8 (gaining approximately an inch each time.) Because each
size is designed with the same number of panels, the number
of stitches and how they're handled within each panel are different.
You can see how before you cast on - the light grey hat pictured
here was knit in size M and the dark grey in L.
The high ridges in this hat are produced
by adapting the classic Twist stitch to
take two sts over the top while holding
just one in back. So
as not to confuse it with the traditional one-plus-one Right Twist,
it is called Double Right Twist, or DRT. In the crown, an
extra st is cleverly added to the DRT, held in back with the single
st and these two worked together for a decrease. This adjustment
is called Double Right Twist Decrease, or DRT-dec.
T1L: twist 1 left: slip next st to cable needle
and hold in front of work, p1, then k1 from cable needle.
T1R: twist 1 right: slip next st to cable needle and hold in back
of work, k1, then p1 from cable needle.
DRT: double right twist: slip next st to cable needle and hold
in back of work, k2, then 1 from cable needle.
DRT-dec: double right twist with decrease: slip next 2
sts to cable needle and hold in back of work, k2, then k2tog from cable
needle.
m1p: make one purlwise: Insert left needle, from front to back,
under strand of yarn which runs between last stitch on left needle and
first stitch on right needle; purl this stitch through back loop.
Charts The charts for this pattern are very large
and fit on a letter-sized page.
Click the appropriate size below and
print the resulting page.
Band
Using 16-inch circular needle, cast on 90[99, 108] sts. Distribute
across your needles as you prefer and join for working in the round, placing
a marker as required for start of round.
Setup round: *P2[2, 3], k1, k1[2, 1] tbl, k1, p2[2,
3], k3; repeat from * to end of rnd.
Round 1: * P2[2, 3], k1, k1[2,
1] tbl, k1, p2[2, 3], DRT; repeat from
* to end of rnd.
Round 2: * P2[2, 3], k1, k1[2,
1] tbl, k1, p2[2, 3], k3; repeat
from * to end of rnd.
Repeat Rounds 1-2 three times more.
Increase round: *M1p, p2[2, 3], m1p, k1, k1[2, 1] tbl, k1, m1p,
p2[2, 3], m1p, DRT; repeat from * to end of round. 126[135, 144] sts.
Body
Work from written instructions or chart
as you prefer.
Round 1: *P4[4, 5], k1, k1[2, 1] tbl,
k1, p4[4, 5], k3; repeat from * to end of rnd.
Round 2: *P3[3, 4], T1R, k1[2, 1] tbl,
T1L, p3[3, 4], DRT; repeat from * to end of rnd.
Rounds 3, 7: *P3[3, 4], k1, p1, k1[2,
1] tbl, p1, k1, p3[3, 4], k3; repeat from * to end of rnd.
Round 4: *P2[2, 3], T1R, p1, k1[2, 1]
tbl, p1, T1L, p2[2, 3], DRT; repeat from * to end of rnd. Round 5: *P2[2, 3], k1, p2, k1[2, 1]
tbl, p2, k1, p2[2, 3], k3; repeat from * to end of rnd. Round 6: *P2[2, 3], T1L, p1, k1[2, 1]
tbl, p1, T1R, p2[2, 3], DRT; repeat from * to end of rnd. Round 8: *P3[3, 4], T1L, k1[2, 1] tbl,
T1R, p3[3, 4], DRT; repeat from * to end of rnd.
Repeat Rounds 1-8 once more, then repeat
Round 1 once more.
Crown
Work from written instructions or chart
as you prefer. When hat gets too small to work comfortably
on 16-inch circular, switch to DPNs,
magic loop or 2 circulars as you prefer.
Round 1: *P3[3, 4], T1R, k1[2, 1] tbl, T1L, P2[2, 3], DRT-dec;
repeat from * to end of rnd. 117[126, 135] sts
Round 2: *P3[3, 4], k1, p1, k1[2, 1]
tbl, p1, k1, p2[2, 3], k3; repeat from * to end of rnd.
Round 3: *P2[2, 3], T1R, p1, k1[2, 1] tbl, p1, T1L, p0[0,
1], DRT-dec; repeat from * to end of rnd. 108[117, 126] sts.
Round 4: *P2[2, 3], k1, p2, k1[2, 1]
tbl, p2, (k1, p1) 0[0,1] times, k4[4,3]; repeat from * to end
of rnd.
Round 5: *P2[2, 3], T1L, p1, k1[2, 1]
tbl, p2[2, 1], T1R 0[0, 1] time, DRT-dec; repeat from * to end
of rnd. 99[108, 117] sts
Round 6: *P3[3, 4], k1, p1, k1[2, 1]
tbl, p2[2, 1], [k1, p1] 0[0, 1] times, k3; repeat from * to end
of rnd.
Round 7: *P3[3, 4], T1L, k1[2, 1] tbl,
T1R 0[0, 1] times, p1[1, 0], DRT-dec; repeat from * to end of
rnd. 90[99, 108] sts
Round 8: *P4[4, 5], k1, k1[2, 1] tbl,
k0[0, 1], p1, k3; repeat from * to end of rnd. Round 9: *P3[3, 4], T1R, k1[2, 1] tbl,
k0[0, 1], DRT-dec; repeat from * to end of rnd. 81[90, 99] sts. Round 10: *P3[3, 4], k1, p1, k1[2, 1]
tbl, k3[3, 4]; repeat from * to end of rnd. Round 11: *P2[2, 3], T1R, p1, k0[1, 1]
tbl, DRT-dec; repeat from * to end of rnd. 72[81, 90] sts. Round 12: *P2[2, 3], k1, p2, k0[1, 1]
tbl, k3; repeat from * to end of rnd. Round 13: *P2[2, 3], T1L, p0[1, 1], DRT
-dec; repeat from * to end of rnd. 63[72, 81] sts. Round 14: *P3[3, 4], k0[1, 1], p0[1,
1], k4[3, 3]; repeat from * to end of rnd. Round 15: *P3[4, 4], k0[0, 1], DRT-dec;
repeat from * to end of rnd. 54[63, 72]
sts. Round 16: *P3[4, 4], k3[3, 4]; repeat
from * to end of rnd. Round 17: *P2[3, 4], DRT-dec; repeat
from * to end of rnd. 45[54, 63] sts. Round 18: *P2[3, 4], k3; rep from * to
end of round. Round 19: *P1[2, 3], DRT-dec; repeat
from * to end of rnd. 36[45, 54] sts. Round 20: *P1[2, 3], k3; rep from * to
end of round. Round 21: *P0[1, 2], DRT-dec; repeat
from * to end of rnd. 27[36, 45] sts – S ends here. Round 22: *P-[1, 2], k3; rep from * to
end of round. Round 23: *P-[0, 1], DRT-dec; repeat
from * to end of rnd. –[27, 36] sts – M ends here. Round 24: *P-[-, 1], k3; rep from * to
end of round. Round 25: *DRT-dec; repeat from * to
end of rnd. –[–, 27] sts - L ends here.
Cut yarn, leaving an 8-inch tail. Thread yarn tail through rem
sts and pull to secure.
FINISHING
Weave in ends and block. You may dry the hat flat on its top
- letting the brim fall to the center (which leaves an appealingly
beret-like fold line), or hung by the brim, or set over a form.
ABOUT THE DESIGNER
Mary Keenan is a writer who spends a lot
more time knitting than is good for her
(depending on how you define ‘good’,
which depends on whether or not you’re getting the hat that’s
coming off the needles.)
