I like to spin. Since getting a wheel a few years ago,
I’ve managed to develop the skills necessary to create
some neat barber-pole type 2-ply worsted
and chunky weight yarns. I
like them a lot. I like their thick-and-thin
nature, and I even like the fact that,
depending on the day, they may be a bit
over- or under-twisted. Some
day I might get pretty good at making
other sorts of yarns, but I’m
in no rush. Until that
day, I’ve decided to celebrate my special yarns, with something
larger than a hat or mittens...a sweater
of confidence!
King of Confidence allows spinners of all levels to incorporate
spinning into a gorgeous garment designed
to be forgiving to your yarn’s special traits. The body
of the sweater is worked in a worsted-weight commercial yarn,
and the piece is worked in one piece from the bottom up, with
sleeves and body joined at the yoke.
In the case of the sample, the handspun yarns were chunkier
than the worsted weight Main Color (coming in at 10 WPI as opposed
to 13 WPI for the Cascade 220).
Since
the cardigan is knit at a rather loose gauge, all yarns blocked
out to a comparable gauge in my very generous test swatch. Additionally,
the textured yoke of the sweater is designed to be heavier
in look and feel than the body.
When spinning, aim for a weight close to the weight of your
MC, and be sure to swatch a few stripes or a repeat or two
of the yoke pattern, alternating MC and handspun yarns, and
steam block it well before beginning your project to make sure
your yarns are compatible.
So have confidence in your yarn, or support handspinners who
sell their products. Three 4 oz. skeins of worsted to
chunky weight handspun purchased from a spinner is a relatively
economic way to use luxury yarns in a cardigan!
model: Ann
Weaver photos: Chris
Bergh
SIZE
XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X] (shown in size S)
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Chest: 31[35.5, 40.25, 45, 49.75, 54.5, 59] inches, with front
edges overlapped approx. 2 inches
Length: 23[24.5, 25.5, 27, 28.5, 30, 31] inches Note: This cardigan is designed to fit with
approx. 4 inches of positive ease for winter layering and a warm, cozy
look. Cardigan shown measures 36 inches, and is worn by a model with a
31-inch bust.
MATERIALs Note: This
sweater as shown is a combination of commercial
and handspun yarn. To knit this sweater
entirely in commercial yarn, replace
the handspun with approximately 400 (460,
530, 560, 595, 620, 650) yards at 17 sts/24
rows = 4" in St
st, one third of the total in each color.
Recommended needle
size [always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below
-- every knitter's gauge is unique]
1
set US #9/5.5mm double point needles
(used for working sleeves; larger sizes may prefer a 16-inch
circular needle)
1 US #9/5.5mm circular needle, 32 inches or longer
1 spare set of double-point needles or circular needle, US #9/5.5mm or
smaller
Spinning
Tool: Ashford Traditional Spinning Wheel [single
drive] + at least 3 bobbins Niddy
Noddy: Ashford 1.5m Lazy
Kate: Ashford upright
Tools
Yarn
needle
8 buttons, approx. 0.75 inch diameter (select buttons after garment is
complete to ensure correct size)
2 stitch holders or waste yarn
4 stitch markers
Sewing thread in coordinating color
Sewing needle
GAUGE
17 sts/24 rows = 4" in stockinette stitch using MC
PATTERN NOTES [Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]
For sizes L, 1X, 2X and 3X, front of sweater will be approx.
1 inch wider than back when buttoned. This is done to give slightly
more ease over the bust.
Working wraps together with wrapped
sts on RS rows:
Insert tip of right needle into front
of wrap and knit it together with wrapped
st.
Working wraps together with wrapped
sts on WS rows:
Insert tip of left needle into back of
wrap and knit or purl it together with
wrapped st in pattern.
DIRECTIONS
LOWER BODY
Using long circular needle and MC, CO 140[160,
180, 200, 220, 240, 260] sts.
Work 12 rows in garter st (k all
sts).
Next Row [RS]: K37[42, 47, 53, 58, 63, 68], place
marker, k66[76, 86, 94, 104, 114, 124], place marker,
k37[42, 47, 53, 58, 63, 68].
Work in stockinette st until work measures 2.75[2.5,
3.5, 3.25, 3, 4.5, 3.75] inches, ending with a WS row.
Buttonhole Row 1 [RS]: K3, BO 2 sts, k to end.
Buttonhole Row 2 [WS]: P to bound
off sts, CO 2 sts, p to end.
When working lower body and yoke,
work one buttonhole every 2.75[3,
3, 3.25, 3.5, 3.5, 3.75] inches until
8 buttonholes have been worked.
Last buttonhole will fall approx.
1 inch below neckline.
Continue in stockinette st until work measures 5.5[6,
6, 6.5, 6.5, 7, 7] inches, ending with a WS row.
Shape Waist: Waist Decrease Row [RS]: [K to 2
sts before marker, ssk, slip marker, k2tog] twice,
k to end.
Work 9 rows in stockinette st, then
work Waist Decrease Row once more. 132[152, 172, 192,
212, 232, 252] sts.
Work 19 rows in stockinette st.
Waist Increase Row [RS]: K to 1 st before marker,
m1, k1, slip marker, m1, k to next marker, m1, slip
marker, k1, m1, k to end.
Work 9 rows in stockinette st, then
work Waist Increase Row once more. 140[160, 180, 200,
220, 240, 260] sts.
Continue in stockinette st until work measures 14.5[15,
15.5, 16, 16.5, 17, 17] inches or
desired length to underarm, ending
with a RS row.
Next Row [WS]: [K to 4[4, 5, 5, 6,
6, 7] sts before marker, BO 8[8, 10, 10, 12, 12, 14]
sts, removing marker] twice, k to end. 124[144, 160,
180, 196, 216, 232] sts:
33[38, 42, 48, 52, 57, 61] sts for
each front, 58[68, 76, 84, 92, 102, 110] sts for back.
Set aside and work sleeves. Do not
break yarn.
SLEEVES
Using double-point needles (or 16-inch circular
needle), CO 42[48, 54, 60, 66, 72, 76] sts. If using
double-point needle, divide sts between needles. Place
marker and join to begin working in the round, being
careful not to twist. Round 1: K all sts. Round 2: P all sts.
Repeat these 2 rounds 5 times more
for garter st cuff.
Work in stockinette st until sleeve measures 17.5[18,
18, 18.5, 18.5, 19, 19] inches or desired length to
underarm, ending last round 4[4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7] sts
before marker. BO next 8[8, 10, 10, 12, 12, 14] sts,
removing marker. Break yarn and place remaining 34[40,
44, 50, 54, 60, 62] sts on spare needle(s).
Make second sleeve in the same way, but do not remove
sts from needles.
YOKE Note: Don't forget to continue working buttonholes
as you work the yoke!
Joining Row: Using long circular needle and yarn attached
to lower body, k 33[38, 42, 48, 52, 57, 61] sts of
right front, k 34[40, 44, 50, 54, 60, 62] sts of one
sleeve, k 58[68, 76, 84, 92, 102, 110] sts of back,
k 34[40, 44, 50, 54, 60, 62] sts of other sleeve, k 33[38,
42, 48, 52, 57, 61] sts of left front. 192[224, 248,
280, 304, 336, 356] sts on needle.
Work in stockinette st until yoke measures 1[1, 1,
1.5, 2, 2.5, 3.5] inches from Joining
Row, ending with
a WS row.
Note: As you work yoke pattern below, if Buttonhole
Row 1 will fall anywhere between Rows 1-6 of Textured
Yoke Pattern, work first 10 sts of
RS rows and last 10 sts of WS rows as follows:
For Rows 1 and 2, work these sts
in garter st. For Rows 3-6, work
these sts in stockinette st.
If desired, place st markers between repeats of pattern.
Number of sts in each repeat will increase from 10
sts to 16 sts on Row 1, then will be decreased back
to 10 over the following rows. This will happen again
on Row 7.
Textured Yoke Pattern: Row 1 [RS]: Using CC1, [k2, (k1,
yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1] in next st (1 st increased
to 7 sts), k7] to end. Row 2 [WS]: Using CC1, k all sts. Row 3 [RS]: Using MC, [k1, k2tog,
k5, ssk, k6] to end. Row 4 [WS]: Using MC, [p6, p2tog
tbl, p1, sl 1 with yarn held to front of work, p1,
p2tog, p1] to end. Row 5 [RS]: Using MC, [k1, k2tog,
sl 1 with yarn held to back of work, ssk, k6. Row 6 [WS]: Using MC, p all sts. Row 7 [RS]: Using CC2, [k7, (k1,
yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1] in next st (1 st increased
to 7 sts), k2] to end. Row 8 [WS]: Using CC2, k all sts. Row 9 [RS]: Using CC3, [k6, k2tog,
k5, ssk, k1] to end. Row 10 [WS]: Using CC3, [p1, p2tog
tbl, p1, sl 1 with yarn held to front of work, p1,
p2tog, p6] to end. Row 11 [RS]: Using CC3, [k6, k2tog,
sl 1 with yarn held to back of work, ssk, k1. Row 12 [WS]: Using CC3, p all sts. Rows 13-14: Using MC, work as for
Rows 1-2. Rows 15-18: Using CC1, work as for
Rows 3-6. Rows 19-20: Work as for Rows
7-8, again using CC2. Rows 21-23: Using MC, work as for
Rows 9-11. If you were using st markers, remove them
now.
First Yoke Decrease Row [WS]: Using MC, [p1, p2tog]
to last 1[1, 1, 1, 0, 1, 0] sts, p1[1, 1, 1, 0, 1,
0]. 127[147, 167, 187, 200, 227, 240] sts.
Yoke Stripe Pattern: Rows 1-2: Using CC3, k all sts. Rows 3-6: Using CC2, work in stockinette
st. Rows 7-8: Using CC1, k all sts. Rows 9-11: Using CC3, work in stockinette
st.
Size XS Only: Row 12 [WS]: Using CC3, [p1, p2tog]
to last st, p1. 85 sts. Rows 13-14: Using MC, k all sts. Rows 15-18: Using CC1, work in stockinette
st. Proceed to Neck Shaping.
Sizes S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X Only: Row 12 [WS]: Using CC3, p all sts. Rows 13-14: Using MC, k all sts. Rows 15-18: Using CC1, work in stockinette
st, EXCEPT:
For sizes S, M, L, and 1X work Row
-[16, 16, 18, 18, -, -] as follows: [p1, p2tog] to
last -[0, 2, 1, 2, -, -] sts, p-[0, 2, 1, 2, -, -].
-[98, 112, 125, 134, -, -] sts.
Rows 19-20: Using CC2, k all sts. Rows 21-24: Using MC, work in stockinette
st, EXCEPT:
For sizes 2X and 3X, work Row
24 as follows: [p1, p2tog] to last -[-, -, -, -, 2, 0]
sts,
p-[-, -, -, -, 2, 0]. -[-, -, -,
-, 152, 160] sts.
Sizes S, M, L Only:
Proceed to Neck Shaping.
Sizes 1X, 2X, 3X Only: Rows 25-26: Using CC2, k all sts. Rows 27-30: Using CC1, work in stockinette
st. Proceed to Neck Shaping.
Neck Shaping:
At beginning of neck shaping, there
are 85[98, 112, 125, 134, 152, 160] sts.
Rows 1-2: Using CC3, k all sts. Row 3 [RS]: Using CC2, k all sts.
Sizes XS, S Only: Row 4 [WS]: Using CC2, [p2, p2tog]
to last 1[2, -, -, -, -, -] sts, p1[2, -, -, -, -
,-]. 64[74, -, -, -, -, -] sts.
Sizes M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X Only: Row 4 [WS]: Using CC2, [p1, p2tog]
to last -[-, 2, 1, 2, 2, 2, 1] sts, p-[-, 2, 1, 2,
2, 2, 1] sts. -[-, 75, 84, 90, 102, 107] sts.
All Sizes:
Neckline will now be shaped using
short rows worked across back neck. Row 5 [RS]: Using CC2, k17[20, 20,
22, 24, 27, 28], place marker, k30[34, 35, 40, 42,
48, 51], place marker, W&T. Row 6 [WS]: Using CC2, p to marker,
slip marker, W&T.
When working following rows, pick up wraps and work
them together with wrapped sts (see Pattern Notes).
In next row, CC1 will be joined at beginning of short
row (not at edge of sweater).
Row 7 [RS]: Using CC1, k to wrapped st, k2, W&T. Row 8 [WS]: Using CC1, k to wrapped
st, k2, W&T. Row 9 [RS]: Using CC2, k to wrapped
st, k2, W&T. Row 10 [WS]: Using CC2, p to wrapped
st, p2, W&T. Row 11 [RS]: Using CC2, k to end,
removing markers.
For sizes M, L, 2X and 3X, work
2 more rows in stockinette st.
For all sizes, loosely BO all sts.
FINISHING Front Edges:
Using longer circular needle and MC, with RS facing and beginning at lower
right front corner, pick up and k1 st for every 2 rows along right front
edge to neckline. K 2 rows.
Loosely BO all sts.
Work edging for left front in the same way.
Sew sleeves to bdy along BO edges at underarms. Weave
in ends.
Steam or wet block cardigan. Use sewing thread to sew
buttons to cardigan opposite buttonholes, with fronts overlapped
approx. 2 inches.
ABOUT THE DESIGNER
Weaverknits is a family enterprise begun by two sisters who have
been making things since they were born.
Ann, currently employed as a bread baker,
designs and knits garments with the inspiration
and input of her design student sister,
Beth, and the rest of her supportive family.
She blogs here,
and can be found on Ravelry as weaverknits.