Knitty: little purls of wisdom
Schaefer Yarn Company
Title
beauty shot

Tangy

Mythos is the story of an imaginary sweater… one that we all want to have in our wardrobe but doesn’t seem to exist.

Designed for a fingering weight yarn and knit at a loose gauge, this sweater is the perfect layer for summer and fall!  Wear it open and loose for a relaxed look or hold closed with a special shawl pin. Thanks to Rosemary Hill for the beautiful pin shown here.

Mythos is worked flat, back and forth on a circular needle in two halves, from sleeve cuff to center back, and then grafted down the back.

 

You could win the yarn for this sweater!
Details here!

spacer model: Ms Baxter spacer photos: Laura Nelkin

SIZE
XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X] (shown in size S)

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FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Chest: 32[36, 40, 44, 48, 52, 56] inches
Length:  17.25[18.75, 20.25, 21.5, 22.75, 24.2, 25.75] inches

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MATERIALS
Yarn

spacer Schaefer Yarn Audrey [50% merino wool/50% cultivated silk; 700yd/640m per 112g skein]; color: Spruce; 2[2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 3] skeins

Note: If substituting yarn, you will require approx. 750[850, 975, 1100, 1200, 1350, 1500]yd/686[777, 892, 1006, 1097, 1235, 1372]m of fingering weight yarn (recommended ball band gauge approx. 32 sts = 4 inches).


Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
spacer 1 40-inch US #8/5mm circular needle
spacer 1 set US #8/5mm double-point needles (only two are used, for I-cord edging)

Notions
spacer Waste yarn or stitch holders
spacer Yarn needle

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GAUGE

spacer18 sts/24 rows = 4 inches in stockinette st, AFTER BLOCKING
Note: For this project, the yarn is knit much more loosely than the recommended ball band gauge, to produce a fluid, drapey fabric. See Pattern Notes re. gauge.

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

Correct row gauge is essential for this design, as it determines the width of the body. Because of this, you will need to count rows as you knit, instead of knitting to measurements. The pieces will look too small as you knit them, but will block out to the correct measurements. It is very important that you work a large gauge swatch and block it before knitting the sweater. (I actually just started knitting my right sleeve, and once 30 or so rows were knit I stopped and blocked the piece. I got gauge, so got to put my sts back on the needles and kept knitting!)

M1L (left-leaning increase): Insert left needle, from front to back, under horizontal strand of yarn running between last stitch on left needle and first stitch on right needle; knit this stitch through back loop. 1 stitch increased.

M1R (right-leaning increase): Insert left needle, from back to front, under horizontal strand of yarn running between last stitch on left needle and first stitch on right needle; knit this stitch through front loop. 1 stitch increased.

Wrap & Turn [W&T] – used when working short rows
Note: The directions that follow are written for short rows worked in stockinette stitch.

To wrap and turn on a RS row, knit to point specified in pattern, bring yarn to front of work between needles, slip next stitch to right-hand needle, bring yarn around this stitch to back of work, slip stitch back to left-hand needle, turn work to begin purling back in the other direction.

To wrap and turn on a WS row, purl to point specified in pattern, bring yarn to back of work between needles, slip next stitch to right-hand needle, bring yarn around this stitch to front of work, slip stitch back to left-hand needle, turn work to begin knitting back in the other direction.

Working Wraps Together with Wrapped Stitches:
When working rows which follow short rows, work the "wraps" at the turning points of the short rows, together with the stitches they wrap, as follows:

When working a RS row: Knit to wrapped stitch. Slip next stitch from left needle to right needle, use tip of left needle to pick up "wrap" and place it on right needle, insert left needle into both wrap and stitch, and knit them together.

When working a WS row: Purl to wrapped stitch. Slip next stitch from left needle to right needle, use tip of left needle to pick up "wrap" and place it on right needle, slip both wrap and stitch back to left needle, purl together through back loops.

Information about blocking can be found here and here.

Instructions for grafting can be found here.

Directions for whip stitch can be found here.

Directions for the Knitted Cast On (“knitting on”) can be found here.

DIRECTIONS

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RIGHT SLEEVE AND BODY

Note: It is very important to count rows as you work. See Pattern Notes for more information.

Sleeve:
CO 30[32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42] sts.

K 3 rows.

Beginning with a WS row, work 5 rows in stockinette st.

Increase Row [RS]: K2, M1R, k to last 2 sts, M1L, k2.

Repeat these 6 rows 14[15, 17, 18, 13, 13, 13] times more. 60[64, 70, 74, 66, 68, 70] sts.

Sizes 1X, 2X, 3X Only:
Work 3 rows in stockinette st.

Work Increase Row.

Repeat these 4 rows -[-, -, -, 5, 6, 8] times more. -[-, -, -, 78, 82, 88] sts.

All Sizes:
Continue in stockinette st until a total of 114[118, 120, 124, 126, 130, 132] rows have been worked, ending with a WS row.

Note: As written, sleeves will measure 19[19.5, 20, 20.5, 21, 21.5, 22] inches after blocking. If more or less length is desired, work more or fewer rows at this point; be sure to make a note of the number of rows worked, so that the left sleeve can be made to match. A difference of 6 rows will make a difference of 1 inch to the finished (blocked) length.

Lower Body:
Note: As written, length of lower body is 11[12, 13, 14, 14.5, 15.5, 16.5] inches, and full length of garment is 17.5[19, 20.5, 21.75, 23, 24.5, 26] inches. If you wish to alter the lower body length, CO more or fewer sts in the next step. A difference of 9 sts each for front and back will make a difference of 2 inches to the finished (blocked) length. Be sure to CO the same number of sts for both back and front, and be sure to make a note of the number of sts cast on, so that the left side can be made to match. The knitted cast on is recommended for casting on sts in this section (see Pattern Notes).

Also, note that if the lower body length is changed, the number of sts that will remain after shaping the neckline and lower front edge will be different.

Begin row count again at this point.
CO 50[54, 58, 62, 66, 70, 74] sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 160[172, 186, 198, 210, 222, 236] sts.

From this point  to beginning of front shaping, k first and last 2 sts of every row. This will form a narrow (2-st) band of garter st at lower edge of work.

Work 4[4, 4, 4, 4, 6, 6] rows in stockinette st, ending with a WS row.

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Shape Hip:
Lower edge of cardigan is flared using short rows. See Pattern Notes for information about working short rows. Throughout this section, when you encounter a wrapped st, pick up wrap and work it together with wrapped st. Short row sequence begins with RS facing.
Do not include short rows in row count.

K20[22, 24, 27, 29, 31, 33], W&T. P to last 2 sts, k2.
Work 1 RS row across all sts.
K2, p18[20, 22, 25, 27, 29, 31], W&T. K to end.
Work 5[5, 5, 5, 5, 7, 7] rows across all sts, ending with a WS row.

K14[16, 18, 21, 23, 25, 28], W&T. P to last 2 sts, k2.
Work 1 RS row across all sts.
K2, p12[14, 16, 19, 21, 23, 26], W&T. K to end.
Work 5[5, 5, 5, 5, 7, 7] rows across all sts, ending with a WS row.

K8[10, 12, 15, 17, 19, 22], W&T. P to last 2 sts, k2.
Work 1 RS row across all sts.
K2, p6[8, 10, 13, 15, 17, 20], W&T. K to end.
Work 15[15, 17, 17, 17, 17, 17] rows across all sts, ending with a WS row. Excluding short rows, 34[34, 36, 36, 36, 42, 42] rows have been worked from beginning of lower body.

Divide for Neckline:
Next Row [RS]: K80[86, 93, 99, 105, 111, 118]; do not complete row. Place last 80[86, 93, 99, 105, 111, 118] sts on waste yarn or st holder for back.
Next Row [WS]: P2, p2tog tbl, p1, p2tog tbl, p to last 2 sts, k2. 78[84, 91, 97, 103, 109, 116] sts.
As you shape front, remember to maintain 2 sts at lower edge of cardigan in garter st. Sts at neckline edge are worked in stockinette st.

Shape Front:
Row 1 [RS]: K to last 7 sts, ssk, k1, ssk, k2. 2 sts decreased at neckline edge.
Row 2 [WS]: P to last 7 sts,  p2tog tbl, p1, p2tog tbl, k2. 2 sts decreased at lower edge.
Row 3 (Short Row) [RS]: K to last 8 sts, W&T.
Row 4 (Short Row) [WS]: P to last 2 sts, k2.
Repeat these 4 rows 12[13, 14, 15, 16, 18, 19] times more, then work Rows 1-2 once more. Each time you work Row 1, remember to work wrap at end of short row together with wrapped st. 22[24, 27, 29, 31, 29, 32] sts.
Place remaining sts on waste yarn or st holder.

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Shape Back:
Place held sts of back on needle with RS facing and join yarn at neck edge. 80[86, 93, 99, 105, 111, 118] sts on needle.

Row 1 [RS]: K2, k2tog, k1, k2tog, k to end. 78[84, 91, 97, 103, 109, 116] sts.
Row 2 [WS]: K2, p to end.
Rows 3-4: Work as for Rows 1-2. 76[82, 89, 95, 101, 107, 114] sts.
Row 5 [RS]: K2, k2tog, k to end.
Row 6 [WS]: Work as for Row 2.
Repeat Rows 5-6  2[2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4] times more. 73[79, 86, 91, 97, 102, 109] sts. Excluding short rows, 44[44, 46, 48, 48, 56, 56] rows have been worked from beginning of lower body.

Work 12[18, 22, 26, 32, 30, 36] more rows in stockinette st, maintaining 2 sts at hem edge in garter st as set. Excluding short rows, 56[62, 68, 74, 80, 86, 92] rows have been worked from beginning of lower body.
Break yarn, leaving a tail, and place all sts on waste yarn or st holder.

LEFT SLEEVE AND BODY

Sleeve:
Work as for right sleeve until all increases have been completed. Continue in stockinette st until a total of 113[117, 119, 123, 125, 129, 131] rows have been worked, ending with a RS row.

Lower Body:
Begin row count again at this point.

CO 50[54, 58, 62, 66, 70, 74] sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 160[172, 186, 198, 210, 222, 236] sts.
From this point to beginning of front shaping, k first and last 2 sts of every row.

Work 4[4, 4, 4, 4, 6, 6] rows in stockinette st, ending with a RS row.

Shape Hip:
Lower edge of cardigan is flared using short rows. See Pattern Notes for information about working short rows. Throughout this section, when you encounter a wrapped st, pick up wrap and work it together with wrapped st. Short row sequence begins with RS facing.

K2, p18[20, 22, 25, 27, 29, 31], W&T. K to end.
Work 1 WS row across all sts.
K20[22, 24, 27, 29, 31, 33], W&T. P to last 2 sts, k2.
Work 5[5, 5, 5, 5, 7, 7] rows across all sts, ending with a RS row.

K2, p12[14, 16, 19, 21, 23, 26], W&T. K to end.
Work 1 WS row across all sts.
K14[16, 18, 21, 23, 25, 28], W&T. P to last 2 sts, k2.
Work 5[5, 5, 5, 5, 7, 7] rows across all sts, ending with a RS row.

K2, p6[8, 10, 13, 15, 17, 20], W&T. K to end.
Work 1 WS row across all sts.
K8[10, 12, 15, 17, 19, 22], W&T. P to last 2 sts, k2.
Work 15[15, 17, 17, 17, 17, 17] rows across all sts, ending with a RS row. Excluding short rows, 34[34, 36, 36, 36, 42, 42] rows have been worked from beginning of lower body.

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Divide for Neckline:
Next Row [WS]: K2, p78[84, 91, 97, 103, 109, 116]; do not complete row. Place last 80[86, 93, 99, 105, 111, 118] sts on waste yarn or st holder for back.
Next Row [RS]: K2, k2tog, k1, k2tog, k to end. 78[84, 91, 97, 103, 109, 116] sts.
As you shape front, remember to maintain 2 sts at lower edge of cardigan in garter st. Sts at neckline edge are worked in stockinette st.

Shape Front:
Row 1 [WS]: K2, p2tog, p1, p2tog, p to end. 2 sts decreased at lower edge.
Row 2 [RS]: K2, k2tog, k1, k2tog, k to end.  2 sts decreased at neckline edge.
Row 3 (Short Row) [WS]: K2, p to last 8 sts, W&T.
Row 4 (Short Row) [RS]: K to end.
Repeat these 4 rows 12[13, 14, 15, 16, 18, 19] times more, then work Rows 1-2 once more. Each time you work Row 1, remember to work wrap at end of short row pair together with wrapped st. 22[24, 27, 29, 31, 29, 32] sts.
Place remaining sts on waste yarn or st holder.

Shape Back:
Place held sts of back on needle with WS facing and join yarn at neck edge. 80[86, 93, 99, 105, 111, 118] sts on needle.

Row 1 [WS]: P2, p2tog tbl, p1, p2tog tbl, p to last 2 sts, k2. 78[84, 91, 97, 103, 109, 116] sts.
Row 2 [RS]: K all sts.
Rows 3-4: Work as for Rows 1-2. 76[82, 89, 95, 101, 107, 114] sts.
Row 5 [WS]: P2, p2tog tbl, p to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 6 [RS]: K all sts.
Repeat Rows 5-6  2[2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4] times more. 73[79, 86, 91, 97, 102, 109] sts. Excluding short rows, 44[44, 46, 48, 48, 56, 56] rows have been worked from beginning of lower body.

Work 12[18, 22, 26, 32, 30, 36] more rows in stockinette st, maintaining 2 sts at hem edge in garter st as set. Excluding short rows, 56[62, 68, 74, 80, 86, 92] rows have been worked from beginning of lower body.
Break yarn, leaving a tail, and place all sts on waste yarn or st holder.

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FINISHING
Block halves of sweater to measurements shown in schematic.
Sew side seams and sleeve seams.
Graft held sts of right and left back together, taking care to keep tension even. If desired, block again after grafting.

Turn garter st lower edging to WS of work and neatly whip stitch in place.

Applied I-Cord Edging:
CO 3 sts onto double-point needle. Place held sts of right front edge on circular needle.

Using another double-point needle, work as follows:
K first 2 sts from double-point needle, sl third st to right needle; k1 from circular needle, pass slipped st over st just knit. Slide 3 sts just worked to other end of a double-pointed needle and bring yarn around back of work, ready to begin working the next row.
Repeat this row until all sts from circular needle have been worked, then continue working edging along neckline edge as follows:

K first 2 sts from double-point needle, sl third st to right needle; use tip of left needle to pick up 1 st from neckline edge, k this st, pass slipped st over st just knit. Slide 3 sts just worked to other end of a double-pointed needle and bring yarn around back of work, ready to begin working the next row.
Repeat this row, picking up 1 st for each row, until you have reached held sts of left front edge. Place these sts on circular needle and work them as for sts of right front edge.
BO sts of I-cord. Weave in remaining ends.

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ABOUT THE DESIGNER

designernamespacer Laura love love LOVES to knit and splits her work hours between Nelkin Designs and her paying gig as the design director at Schaefer Yarn Company. The rest of her time is spent plotting to take LONG vacations with her family so she can play and knit some more!

Visit Laura at her at her blog or follow her on Twitter.

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