Java socks: Knitty Winter 2011

by Cailyn Meyer

These socks are slightly caffeinated. Enough to keep you awake, but not enough to make you jittery, just like good java should. The tiny wiggles are fun to knit and the perfect opportunity to practice cabling without a cable needle- only two stitches in each cable and there are tons of them!

My favorite part about these socks is the patterned gusset. After the stitches are picked up from the heel flap, the gusset stitches are worked in the rib pattern and the decreases consume the instep stitches instead of the gusset stitches. The ribs eventually merge and continue down the foot to the patterned toe. The toe is also different than normal; most of the decreases are made closer to the middle of the toe to allow the pattern on the side of the foot to continue to the last possible moment. Then the last stitches are decreased rapidly for a flat, graft-less toe.

The pattern is extremely stretchy with a wide, round heel turn that is comfortable for a range of sizes. The larger size fits me, a women’s size 8, and my husband, a men’s size 11!

photos: Cailyn Meyer, Lowell Meyer

SIZE
Women’s/small, Men’s/large

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Leg circumference: 5 [6.5] inches relaxed; will stretch to fit up to 8.5[11] inches

MATERIALS
Yarn
Women's/small [shown below]: Lorna’s Laces: Shepherd Sock [80% wool, 20%nylon; 435 yd/398 m per 100g skein]; color: Chocolate; 1 skein
Men's/large [shown above]: String Theory: Bluestocking [80% wool, 20%nylon; 420 yd/384 m per 110g skein]; color: Java; 1 skein

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
1 set(s) US #1/2.25mm double-point needles
OR
1 32 inch or longer US #1/2.25mm circular needle for magic loop method
OR
2 24 inch #1/2.25mm circular needles

Notions
Yarn needle
cable needle (optional – see Pattern Notes)
stitch marker

GAUGE

36 sts/52 rounds = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
48 sts /52 rounds = 4 inches in leg pattern, slightly stretched

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

C2B: Slip next st to cable needle and hold to back of work; k1, k1 from cable needle. Without a cable needle: Slip 1 with yarn in front, knit the next stitch. From the back, insert the left needle into the slipped stitch. Pull right needle free of both the knitted and slipped stitch. From the front, insert the right needle into the free knitted stitch. Knit the slipped stitch now on the left needle.

C2F: Slip next st to cable needle and hold to front of work; k1, k1 from cable needle. Without a cable needle: Slip 1 with yarn in back, knit the next stitch. From the front, insert the left needle into the slipped stitch. Pull right needle free of both the knitted and slipped stitch. From the back, insert the right needle into the free knitted stitch. Knit the slipped stitch now on the left needle.

Charts
The charts for this pattern are very large, and have been divided into three parts.
Click the appropriate size below and print each resulting page and assemble L-C-R.

Women's left side • Women's center • Women's right side
Men's left side • Men's center • Men's right side

DIRECTIONS
Cuff
CO 60[84] sts.
Join in the round, being careful not to twist. Place marker for the beginning of the round.

Ribbing round: K1, [p1, k2], rep to last 2 sts, p1, k1.

Work Ribbing round for 1 inch.

Leg
Use Chart or written instructions as you prefer.

Round 1: K1, p1, [C2B, p1, k2, p1], rep to last 4 sts, C2B, p1, k1.

Rounds 2 and 4: Work sts as presented (knit the knits and purl the purls).

Round 3: K1, p1, [C2F, p1, k2, p1], rep to last 4 sts, C2F, p1, k1.

Repeat Rounds 1-4 until leg is desired length, ending on Round 3. Shown 6.5 inches long.

Heel Flap
The heel flap will be worked back and forth over the last 30[42] sts of the sock. Turn so that WS is facing.

Row 1 [WS]: Sl 1, p29[41], turn. These 30[42] stitches are the heel flap. Put other 30[42] stitches on a holder, scrap yarn, or spare needle if desired.

Row 2 [RS]: [Sl 1, k1], rep to end, turn.
Repeat Rows 1-2 16[19] more times for a total of 34[40] rows, ending on a RS row.

Turn Heel – Woman’s Size Only
Row 1 [WS]: Sl 1, p16, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 2 [RS]: Sl 1, k5, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 3 [WS]: Sl 1, p6, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 4 [RS]: Sl 1, k7, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 5 [WS]: Sl 1, p8, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 6 [RS]: Sl 1, k9, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 7 [WS]: Sl 1, p10, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 8 [RS]: Sl 1, k11, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 9 [WS]: Sl 1, p12, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 10 [RS]: Sl 1, k13, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 11 [WS]: Sl 1, p14, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 12 [RS]: Sl 1, k15, ssk, k1, do not turn. 18 sts remain.

Turn Heel – Men’s Size Only
Row 1 [WS]: Sl 1, p23, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 2 [RS]: Sl 1, k7, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 3 [WS]: Sl 1, p8, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 4 [RS]: Sl 1, k9, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 5 [WS]: Sl 1, p10, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 6 [RS]: Sl 1, k11, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 7 [WS]: Sl 1, p12, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 8 [RS]: Sl 1, k13, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 9 [WS]: Sl 1, p14, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 10 [RS]: Sl 1, k15, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 11 [WS]: Sl 1, p16, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 12 [RS]: Sl 1, k17, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 13 [WS]: Sl 1, p18, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 14 [RS]: Sl 1, k19, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 15 [WS]: Sl 1, p20, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 16 [RS]: Sl 1, k21, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 17 [WS]: Sl 1, p22, p2tog, turn.
Row 18 [RS]: Sl 1, k22, ssk, do not turn. 24 sts remain.

Gusset
Pick up and knit 18[21] sts along the edge of the heel flap. Work across instep: K1, [p1, k2] 9[13] times, p1, k1. Pick up and knit 18[21] sts along the edge of the second heel flap, k9[12]. Mark this as the beginning of the round. 84[108] sts total.

Gusset – Women’s Size Only
Round 1: K10, p1, C2B, p1, [k2, p1, C2B, p1] x2, k1, ssk, [C2B, p1, k2, p1] x 4, C2B, k2tog, k1, [p1, C2B, p1, k2] x2, p1, C2B, p1, k10. 2 sts decreased, 82 sts.
Round 2 and all even rounds: Work sts as presented (knit the knits and purl the purls).
Round 3: K10, p1, C2F, p1, [k2, p1, C2F, p1] x2, k1, ssk, k1, p1, k1 [k1, p1, C2F, p1, k1] x3, k1, p1, k1, k2tog, k1, [p1, C2F, p1, k2] x2, p1, C2F, p1, k10. 2 sts decreased, 80 sts.
Round 5: K10, p1, C2B, p1, [k2, p1, C2B, p1] x2, k1, ssk, p1, k1 [k1, p1, C2B, p1, k1] x3, k1, p1, k2tog, k1, [p1, C2B, p1, k2] x2, p1, C2B, p1, k10. 2 sts decreased, 78 sts.
Round 7: K10, p1, C2F, p1, [k2, p1, C2F, p1] x2, k1, ssk, k1 [k1, p1, C2F, p1, k1] x3, k1, k2tog, k1, [p1, C2F, p1, k2] x2, p1, C2F, p1, k10. 2 sts decreased, 76 sts.
Round 9: K10, p1, C2B, p1, [k2, p1, C2B, p1] x2, k1, ssk, [k1, p1, C2B, p1, k1] x3, k2tog, k1, [p1, C2B, p1, k2] x2, p1, C2B, p1, k10. 2 sts decreased, 74 sts.
Round 11: K10, p1, C2F, p1, [k2, p1, C2F, p1] x2, k1, ssk, p1, [C2F, p1, k2, p1] x2, C2F, p1, k2tog, k1, [p1, C2F, p1, k2] x2, p1, C2F, p1, k10. 2 sts decreased, 72 sts.
Round 13: K10, p1, C2B, p1, [k2, p1, C2B, p1] x2, k1, ssk, [C2B, p1, k2, p1] x2, C2B, k2tog, k1, [p1, C2B, p1, k2] x2, p1, C2B, p1, k10. 2 sts decreased, 70 sts.
Round 15: K10, p1, C2F, p1, [k2, p1, C2F, p1] x2, k1, ssk, k1, p1, k2, p1, C2F, p1, k2, p1, k1, k2tog, k1, [p1, C2F, p1, k2] x2, p1, C2F, p1, k10. 2 sts decreased, 68 sts.
Round 17: K10, p1, C2B, p1, [k2, p1, C2B, p1] x2, k1, ssk, p1, k2, p1, C2B, p1, k2, p1, k2tog, k1, [p1, C2B, p1, k2] x2, p1, C2B, p1, k10. 2 sts decreased, 66 sts.
Round 19: K10, p1, C2F, p1, [k2, p1, C2F, p1] x2, k1, ssk, k2, p1, C2F, p1, k2, k2tog, k1, [p1, C2F, p1, k2] x2, p1, C2F, p1, k10. 2 sts decreased, 64 sts.
Round 21: K10, p1, C2B, p1, [k2, p1, C2B, p1] x2, k1, ssk, k1, p1, C2B, p1, k1, k2tog, k1, [p1, C2B, p1, k2] x2, p1, C2B, p1, k10. 2 sts decreased, 62 sts.
Round 23: K10, p1, C2F, p1, [k2, p1, C2F, p1] x2, k1, ssk, p1, C2F, p1, k2tog, k1, [p1, C2F, p1, k2] x2, p1, C2F, p1, k10. 2 sts decreased, 60 sts.
Round 24: Work sts as presented (knit the knits and purl the purls).

Gusset – Men’s Size Only
Round 1: K13, [p1, k2, p1, C2B] x3, p1, k1, ssk, [C2B, p1, k2, p1] x6, C2B, k2tog, k1, p1, [C2B, p1, k2, p1] x3, k13. 2 sts decreased, 106 sts.
Round 2 and all even rounds: Work sts as presented (knit the knits and purl the purls).
Round 3: K13, [p1, k2, p1, C2F] x3, p1, k1, ssk, k1, p1, k1, [k1, p1, C2F, p1, k1] x5, k1, p1, k1, k2tog, k1, p1, [C2F, p1, k2, p1] x3, k13. 2 sts decreased, 104 sts.
Round 5: K13, [p1, k2, p1, C2B] x3, p1, k1, ssk, p1, k1, [k1, p1, C2B, p1, k1] x5, k1, p1, k2tog, k1, p1, [C2B, p1, k2, p1] x3, k13. 2 sts decreased, 102 sts.
Round 7: K13, [p1, k2, p1, C2F] x3, p1, k1, ssk, k1, [k1, p1, C2F, p1, k1] x5, k1, k2tog, k1, p1, [C2F, p1, k2, p1] x3, k13. 2 sts decreased, 100 sts.
Round 9: K13, [p1, k2, p1, C2B] x3, p1, k1, ssk, [k1, p1, C2B, p1, k1] x5, k2tog, k1, p1, [C2B, p1, k2, p1] x3, k13. 2 sts decreased, 98 sts.
Round 11: K13, [p1, k2, p1, C2F] x3, p1, k1, ssk, p1, [C2F, p1, k2, p1] x4, C2F, p1, k2tog, k1, p1, [C2F, p1, k2, p1] x3, k13. 2 sts decreased, 96 sts.
Round 13: K13, [p1, k2, p1, C2B] x3, p1, k1, ssk, [C2B, p1, k2, p1] x4, C2B, k2tog, k1, p1, [C2B, p1, k2, p1] x3, k13. 2 sts decreased, 94 sts.
Round 15: K13, [p1, k2, p1, C2F] x3, p1, k1, ssk, k1, p1, k1, [k1, p1, C2F, p1, k1] x3, k1, p1, k1, k2tog, k1, p1, [C2F, p1, k2, p1] x3, k13. 2 sts decreased, 92 sts.
Round 17: K13, [p1, k2, p1, C2B] x3, p1, k1, ssk, p1, k1, [k1, p1, C2B, p1, k1] x3, k1, p1, k2tog, k1, p1, [C2B, p1, k2, p1] x3, k13. 2 sts decreased, 90 sts.
Round 19: K13, [p1, k2, p1, C2F] x3, p1, k1, ssk, k1, [k1, p1, C2F, p1, k1] x3, k1, k2tog, k1, p1, [C2F, p1, k2, p1] x3, k13. 2 sts decreased, 88 sts.
Round 21: K13, [p1, k2, p1, C2B] x3, p1, k1, ssk, [k1, p1, C2B, p1, k1] x3, k2tog, k1, p1, [C2B, p1, k2, p1] x3, k13. 2 sts decreased, 86 sts.
Round 23: K13, [p1, k2, p1, C2F] x3, p1, k1, ssk, p1, [C2F, p1, k2, p1] twice, C2F, p1, k2tog, k1, p1, [C2F, p1, k2, p1] x3, k13. 2 sts decreased, 84 sts.
Round 24: Work sts as presented (knit the knits and purl the purls).

Foot – Women’s Size Only
Use Chart or written instructions as you prefer.
Round 1: K10, p1, [C2B, p1, k2, p1] to last 13 sts, C2B, p1, k10.
Rounds 2 and 4: Work sts as presented (knit the knits and purl the purls).
Round 3: K10, p1, [C2F, p1, k2, p1] to last 13 sts, C2F, p1, k10.
Repeat Rounds 1-4 until foot is 1.5 inches shorter than full length of foot, ending on Round 4.

Foot – Men’s Size Only
Use Chart or written instructions as you prefer.

Round 1: K13, p1, k2, p1, [C2B, p1, k2, p1], rep to last 13 sts, k13.
Rounds 2 and 4: Work sts as presented (knit the knits and purl the purls).
Round 3: K13, p1, k2, p1, [C2F, p1, k2, p1], rep to last 13 sts, k13.
Repeat Rounds 1-4 until foot is 2 inches shorter than full length of foot, ending on Round 4.

Toe
Use Chart or written instructions as you prefer.

Round 1: K7[13], k2tog, [k1, p1, C2B, p1, k1] twice, ssk, [C2B, p1, k2, p1] 2[4] times, C2B, k2tog, [k1, p1, C2B, p1, k1] twice, ssk, k7[13]. 4 sts decreased, 56[80] sts.
Round 2 and all even rounds: Work sts as presented (knit the knits and purl the purls).
Round 3: K6[12], k2tog, [k1, p1, C2F, p1, k1] twice, ssk, k1, p1, k1, [k1, p1, C2F, p1, k1] 1[3] times, k1, p1, k1, k2tog, [k1, p1, C2F, p1, k1] twice, ssk, k6[12]. 4 sts decreased, 52[76] sts.

Women’s Size Only Proceed from here:
Round 5: K5, k2tog, [k1, p1, C2B, p1, k1] x2, ssk, p1, k2, p1, C2B, p1, k2, p1, k2tog, [k1, p1, C2B, p1, k1] x 2, ssk, k5. 4 sts decreased, 48 sts.

Round 6 and all even rounds: Work sts as presented (knit the knits and purl the purls).

Round 7: K4, k2tog, [k1, p1, C2F, p1, k1] x2, ssk, k2, p1, C2F, p1, k2, k2tog, [k1, p1, C2F, p1, k1] x 2, ssk, k4. 4 sts decreased, 44 sts.

Round 9: K3, k2tog, [k1, p1, C2B, p1, k1] x2, ssk, k1, p1, C2F, p1, k1, k2tog, [k1, p1, C2B, p1, k1] x 2, ssk, k3. 4 sts decreased, 40 sts.

Round 11: K2, k2tog, [k1, p1, C2F, p1, k1] x2, ssk, p1, C2F, p1, k2tog, [k1, p1, C2F, p1, k1] x 2, ssk, k2. 4 sts decreased, 36 sts.

Round 13: [K2tog, k1] rep to end. 12 sts decreased, 24 sts.
Round 15: [K2tog] rep to end. 12 sts decreased, 12 sts.
Round 16: [K2tog] rep to end. 6 sts decreased, 6 sts.
Cut yarn, leaving a 6 inch tail. Run tail through remaining sts and pull tight.

Men’s Size Only Proceed from here:
Round 5: K11, k2tog, [k1, p1, C2B, p1, k1] twice, ssk, p1, k1, [k1, p1, C2B, p1, k1] x3, k1, p1, k2tog, [k1, p1, C2B, p1, k1] twice, ssk, k11. 4 sts decreased, 72 sts.

Round 6 and all even rounds: Work sts as presented (knit the knits and purl the purls).

Round 7: K10, k2tog, [k1, p1, C2F, p1, k1] twice, ssk, k1, [k1, p1, C2F, p1, k1] x3, k1, k2tog, [k1, p1, C2F, p1, k1] twice, ssk, k10. 4 sts decreased, 68 sts.

Round 9: K9, k2tog, [k1, p1, C2B, p1, k1] twice, ssk, [k1, p1, C2B, p1, k1] x3, k2tog, [k1, p1, C2B, p1, k1] twice, ssk, k9. 4 sts decreased, 64 sts.

Round 11: K8, k2tog, [k1, p1, C2F, p1, k1] twice, ssk, p1, [C2F, p1, k2, p1] twice, C2F, p1, k2tog, [k1, p1, C2B, p1, k1] twice, ssk, k8. 4 sts decreased, 60 sts.

Round 13: K7, k2tog, [k1, p1, C2B, p1, k1] twice, ssk, [C2B, p1, k2, p1] twice, C2B, k2tog, [k1, p1, C2B, p1, k1] twice, ssk, k7. 4 sts decreased, 56 sts.

Round 15: K6, k2tog, [k1, p1, C2F, p1, k1] twice, ssk, k1, p1, k2, p1, C2F, p1, k2, p1, k1, k2tog, [k1, p1, C2B, p1, k1] twice, ssk, k6. 4 sts decreased, 52 sts.

Round 17: K5, k2tog, [k1, p1, C2B, p1, k1] twice, ssk, p1, k2, p1, C2B, p1, k2, p1, k2tog, [k1, p1, C2B, p1, k1] twice, ssk, k5. 4 sts decreased, 48 sts.

Round 19: K4, k2tog, [k1, p1, C2F, p1, k1] twice, ssk, k2, p1, C2F, p1, k2, k2tog, [k1, p1, C2B, p1, k1] twice, ssk, k4. 4 sts decreased, 44 sts.

Round 21: [K2tog, k2] rep to end. 11 sts decreased, 33 sts.
Round 23: [K2tog, k1] rep to end. 11 sts decreased, 22 sts.
Round 25: [K2tog] rep to end. 11 sts decreased, 11 sts.
Round 26: [K2tog] rep to last st, k1. 5 sts decreased, 6 sts.

Cut yarn, leaving a 6 inch tail. Run tail through remaining sts and pull tight.

FINISHING
Weave in ends. Block if desired.

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Cailyn lives near Seattle, WA with her husband and two cats, where her strange obsession with designing socks takes up most of her time.

She writes about her socks and other crafty tribulations on her blog.