From cuddly-warm to daring-hot in just an instant: Button it up and you will have a cowly collar keeping the cold wind away under your coat. Leave it open to show some shoulder when you arrive at the bar.

This sweater came to my mind after watching too much of “Mad Men” while knitting and admiring secretary Joan Harris (Holloway) in her elegant yet sexy outfits.

SIZE
XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X] [shown in size M]

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Bust: 32[36.5, 40, 44.5, 48, 52.5, 56] inches

MATERIALS
Yarn
BC Garn Lucca [100% merino wool; 328yd/300m per 100g skein]; color: #ub09; 4[5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7] skeins
Note: this yarn has been discontinued. BC Garn Semilla is a similar yarn that's currently available and can be used as an alternative.

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
1 set US #8/5mm double-point needles (used for sleeves – larger sizes may prefer a 16-inch circular needle)
1 US #8/5mm circular needle, 24 inches for sizes XS-M, 32 inches for sizes L-3X

Notions
Stitch markers
Cable needle
Waste yarn
Yarn needle
Row counter (optional but recommended)
9[9, 9, 13, 13, 13, 13] buttons, approx. diameter 0.75 inch
Note: Buy buttons after sweater is complete to ensure correct size.

GAUGE

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

The collar and yoke of this sweater are quite deep, providing a loose, slouchy fit.

C16B: Slip next 8 sts to cable needle and hold to back of work; [k2, p2, k2, p2] from left neede, [k2, p2, k2 p2] from cable needle.

LLPI (Left Lifted Purl Increase): Use the left needle to pick up the stitch 2 rows below the last stitch on the right needle. Purl into this stitch. 1 stitch has been increased.

2x2 Rib (Worked back and forth in rows OR in the round over a multiple of 4 sts):
All Rows or Rounds: [K2, p2] to end.

Buttonhole: Work One-row Buttonhole as described here, binding off a total of 2 sts.

Instructions for the Backward Loop Cast On can be found here.

JSSBO (Jeny's Surprisingly Stretchy Bind Off) directions can be found here.

DIRECTIONS
COLLAR
Using circular needle, CO 200[216, 232, 248, 264, 280, 296] stitches.

Rows 1-4: Work in 2x2 Rib.

Row 5 (Buttonhole Row) [WS]: K2, p1, work buttonhole (see Pattern Notes), continue in pattern as set to end.

Rows 6-7: Work in 2x2 Rib.

Note: Even though the fabric is reversible in appearance, RS and WS are indicated to help keep track of cable pattern, buttonhole sequence, etc. You may find it useful to mark RS of work.

Sizes XS, M, 1X, 3X Only:
Row 8 [RS]: [C16B, work 16 sts in pattern] 6[-, 7, -, 8, -, 9] times, work last 8 sts in pattern.

Sizes S, L, 2X Only:
Row 8 [RS]: [C16B, work 16 sts in pattern] -[6, -, 7, -, 8, -] times, C16B, work last 8 sts in pattern.

All Sizes:
Rows 9-15: Work as for Rows 1-7.

Row 16 [RS]: [Work 16 sts in pattern, C16B] 6[6, 7, 7, 8, 8, 9] times, work last 8[24, 8, 24, 8, 24, 8] sts in pattern.

Sizes XS, S, M Only:
Rows 17-31: Work as for Rows 1-15.

Row 32 [RS]: Work 16 sts in pattern, [C16B, work 48 sts in pattern] 2[2, 3, -, -, -, -] times, C16B, work last 40[56, 8, -, -, -, -] sts in pattern.

Rows 33-39: Work as for Rows 1-7.
Row 40 [RS]: C16B, work in pattern to end.
Proceed to Yoke.

Sizes L, 2X, 3X Only:
Rows 17-32: Work as for Rows 1-16.
Rows 33-39: Work as for Rows 1-7.
Row 40 [RS]: [C16B, work 48 sts in pattern] -[-, -, 3, -, 4, 4] times, C16B, work last -[-, -, 40, -, 8, 24] sts in pattern.

Size 1X Only:
Rows 17-32: Work as for Rows 1-16.
Rows 33-39: Work as for Rows 1-7.
Row 40 [RS]: [C16B, work 48 sts in pattern] 4 times, work last 8 sts in pattern.

Sizes L, 1X, 2X, 3X Only:
Rows 41-44: Work in pattern.
Row 45 [WS]: Work Buttonhole Row (as for Row 5).
Rows 46-52: Work in pattern.
Row 53 [WS]: Work Buttonhole Row.
Rows 54-55: Work in pattern.
Row 56 [RS]: C16B, work in pattern to end.
Proceed to Yoke.

YOKE
Rows 1-4: Work in pattern.
Row 5 [WS]: Work Buttonhole Row (as for collar).
Rows 6-12: Work in pattern.
Row 13 [WS]: Work Buttonhole Row.
Rows 14-15: Work in pattern.
Row 16 [RS]: C16B, work in pattern to end.
Rows 17-18: Work in pattern.

Size S Only:
Row 19 [WS]: Work 8 sts in pattern, [(k2, p2, LLPI) three times, k2, p2] twelve times, work last 16 sts in pattern. 252 sts.

Row 20 [RS]: Work 16 sts in pattern, [k2, p2, (k3, p2) three times] to last 8 sts, work 8 sts in pattern.
This row sets rib pattern for rest of yoke.

Sizes M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X Only:
Row 19 [WS]: K2, p2, [k2, p2, LLPI] to last 20 sts, work in pattern to end. -[-, 284, 304, 324, 344, 364] sts.

Row 20 [RS]: Work 20 sts in pattern, [k3, p2] to last 4 sts, k2, p2.
This row sets rib pattern for rest of yoke.

All Sizes:
Row 21 [WS]: Work Buttonhole Row.

Rows 22-28: Work in pattern.

Row 29 [WS]: Work Buttonhole Row.

Rows 30-31: Work in pattern.

Row 32 [RS]: C16B, work in pattern to end.

Sizes XS, S, M Only:
Rows 33-35: Work in pattern.
Proceed to Joining Round.

Sizes L, 1X, 2X, 3X:
Rows 33-36: Work in pattern.
Rows 37-48: Work as for Rows 21-32.
Rows 49-51: Work in pattern.
Proceed to Joining Round.

Joining Round (Worked with RS facing): Work next row in pattern to last 8 sts, place marker; place last 8 sts on cable needle and hold directly behind first 8 sts of row; [k next st on cable needle together with next st on left needle] 8 times. 216[244, 276, 296, 316, 336, 356] sts. Marker indicates beginning of round.
Note: As written, the cabled front edge will lap in front of the buttonhole edge at the bottom of the yoke (see photo above).

The directions for the Increase Round below do not include the 8 sts worked at the end of the joining round, after the end-of-round marker was placed.

Size XS Only:
Increase Round: K19, m1, [k27, m1] 7 times. 224 sts.

Sizes S, M, L, 1X Only:
Increase Round: [K-(59, 67, 36, 15, -, -), m1] -[4, 4, 8, 20, -, -] times, k-[-, 0, 0, 8, -, -]. -[248, 280, 304, 336, -, -] sts.

Size 2X Only:
Increase Round: K6, m1, [k14, m1] 23 times. 360 sts.

Size 3X Only:
Increase Round: K6, [m1, k9, m1, k10] 18 times. 392 sts.

All Sizes:
K 1 round.

Dividing Round: *K68[76, 84, 92, 100, 108, 116], place next 44[48, 56, 60, 68, 72, 80] sts on waste yarn, CO 12[16, 16, 20, 20, 24, 24] sts onto right needle using backward loop method; repeat from * once. 160[184, 200, 224, 240, 264, 280] sts.

Next Round: *K68[76, 84, 92, 100, 108, 116], [k2, p2] 3[4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6] times; repeat from * once.
This round sets pattern for lower body.

Continue in pattern until work measures 10[10.5, 11.5, 12, 13, 13, 13] inches from underarm, or 2.5 inches less than desired length to lower edge.
Work 16 rounds in 2x2 Rib.
BO all sts using JSSBO.

Work in stockinette st until sleeve measures 7.5[8, 8.5, 9, 9, 9, 9] inches or 8 inches less than desired length. Try on sweater to determine best sleeve length.

CUFF
Rounds 1-9: Work in 2x2 Rib.
Round 10: Work 20[24, 28, 32, 36, 40, 44] sts in pattern, C16B, work last 20[24, 28, 32, 36, 40, 44] sts in pattern.
Rounds 11-17: Work in pattern.
Round 18: Work 4[8, 12, 16, 20, 24, 28] sts in pattern, C16B, work 16 sts in pattern, C16B, work last 4[8, 12, 16, 20, 24, 28] sts in pattern.
Repeat Rounds 2-18 twice more.

Work 4 rounds in 2x2 Rib.
BO all sts using JSSBO.

Complete other sleeve in the same way.

FINISHING
Weave in ends and block as desired. Sew buttons to edge of collar opposite buttonholes.

Martina Behm is a freelance writer from Hamburg, Germany who knits and occasionally designs.

She blogs here.