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Loopy Ewe

These legwarmers have socks attached. I designed them as bed socks for warm ankles and free toes. By the time I knit the second legwarmer, I decided some people might prefer a full sock so both options are offered here.

I finished knitting these socks on Minnesota's North Shore. They kept my legs and ankles warm on the chilly nights. Toes are optional in this design. They are designed to fold over at the ankle for added warmth.


model: Jill Bigelow-Suttell photos: Gordy Suttell




Grey Socks [below]
Dark Horse Fantasy [50% nylon / 50% acrylic; 205yd/187m per 100g ball];
[MC] #13; 2 balls
[CC] #38; 1 ball

Turquoise Socks [above]
Tahki Bunny (50% merino wool/25% alpaca/25% acrylic; 81 yds per 50g ball);
[MC] #46, 4(5) balls
[CC] #20, 2(2) balls

1 set of 4 US #7/4.5mm double-point needles
1 set of 4 US #8/5mm double-point needles
Tapestry needle

17 sts / 24 rows = 4 inches in stockinette st

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here]

1x1 Rib (Worked in the round over an even number of sts):
Round 1: [K1, p1] to end.
Repeat Round 1 for 1x1 Rib.

2x2 Rib (Worked in the round over a multiple of 4 sts):
Round 1: [K2, p2] to end.
Repeat this round for 2x2 Rib.

P2[3]tog tbl: Slip next 2[3] sts to right needle, one at a time, as if to knit; slip them all back to left needle and purl together through back loops.

Instructions for grafting can be found here.


Using larger needles and MC, CO 50[58] sts. Divide evenly between 3 needles and join to begin working in the round, being careful not to twist.

Work in 1x1 Rib until work measures 14 inches.

P 1 round.

Next Round: Using smaller needles, [k3[2], k2tog] 10[14] times, k0[2]. 40[44] sts remain.

Work in stockinette st until work measures 3 inches from p round. Break MC.

Using CC, work in 2x2 Rib for 4 inches.

Next Row: Work 21[23] sts onto 1 needle in Rib as set; turn work so that WS is facing. Heel will be worked back and forth on these 21[23] sts; remaining sts on hold for instep.

Yo, p20[22], turn work.
Yo, k19[21], turn work.
Yo, p18[20], turn work.
Yo, k17[19], turn work.
Yo, p16[18], turn work.
Yo, k15[17], turn work.
Yo, p14[16], turn work.
Yo, k13[15], turn work.
Yo, p12[14], turn work.
Yo, k11[13], turn work.
Yo, p10[12], turn work.
Yo, k9[11], turn work.
Yo, p8[10], turn work.
Yo, k8[10], k2tog (knit yo together with next st), turn work.
Yo, p9[11], p2tog tbl, turn work.
Yo, k10[12], k3tog, turn work.
Yo, p11[13], p3tog tbl, turn work.
Yo, k12[14], k3tog, turn work.
Yo, p13[15], p3tog tbl, turn work.
Yo, k14[16], k3tog, turn work.
Yo, p15[17], p3tog tbl, turn work.
Yo, k16[18], k3tog, turn work.
Yo, p17[19], p3tog tbl, turn work.
Yo, k20[22], k3tog. 23[25] sts remain on this needle, including the 2 yo. This needle will be designated Needle 3. Slip the last st from Needle 3 to the next needle; this will now be designated Needle 1, and the remaining needle will be Needle 2. Evenly divide the 20[22] instep sts between Needles 1 and 2.

Next Round: Work sts on Needles 1 and 2 in 2x2 Rib as set; k3tog, k to end of Needle 3. 40[44] sts.

For Toeless Sock:
Work in patt as set, working sts on Needles 1 and 2 in 2x2 Rib and sts on Needle 3 in stockinette st, until foot measures 4 inches or desired length. BO all sts loosely.

For Full Sock:
Work in patt as set, working sts on Needles 1 and 2 in 2x2 Rib and sts on Needle 3 in stockinette st, until foot measures 2 inches less then desired length.

Decrease Round: K1, ssk, k to end of Needle 1; k to last 3 sts of Needle 2, k2tog, k1; k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts of Needle 3, k2tog, k1.

K 1 round.

Repeat these 2 rounds 4[5] times more. 20 sts remain. Break yarn, leaving a 1-yard tail.

Slip sts from Needle 2 to Needle 1. Graft sts on Needle 1 to sts on Needle 3.


Weave in ends.


Jill lives in Ohio and works in Pennsylvania; where she is Co-owner of Kindred Spirits Yarn Studio.

See her other designs at