Modern Lace Henley - Winter 2007

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by Pam Allen Long ago (or what seems like long ago), when I talked to Amy about what kind of designs she wanted to see on Knitty, she mentioned that currently she was loving what she called Modern Lace. So I gave some thought to what might qualify as ‘modern’ lace -- perhaps over-the-top eyelets and edgings, dropped stitches running every which way, and size 19 needles—all these could be inventive means toward a non-traditional sweater. For this sweater, however, I opted for lack of frou-frou. Think of modern architecture with its sleek lines. No moldings, no carved details. Not that I don’t enjoy frills and ruffles and picot edgings, but lace, delicate and fine in some instances, doesn’t have to be precious to be attractive. It can look as clean and tailored and a Chanel jacket. I started with a pattern right out of Barbara Walker, English Mesh Lace from Volume One of A Treasury of Knitting Patterns. It uses a double decrease with firm slanting lines that give it a slightly angular look. Then I added deep ribbed borders for clean, substantial edgings that don’t draw attention away from the lace fabric. There aren’t even any buttons on the placket. The collar comes right off a shirt. Pare down, pare down was my mantra. Wear it with a matched-color camisole to tone the lace down, or a contrasting color like white or cream to make the lace stand out. As for knitting the sweater, the challenge in working an all-over lace pattern is keeping the lace pattern consistent when side and armhole shaping changes the stitch count. Lace patterns depend on a balance of increases and decreases. Take a stitch out of a repeat and you end up with either one stitch too many or one too few. The only way to keep things on track is to work the repeats at the beginning and end of a row with care—adding or eliminating yarn overs or decreases as needed. For an excellent discussion of just how to do this, see Eunny Jang’s article in the Summer 2007 issue of Knits magazine.
model: Christina Klein photos: Pam Allen


SIZE
XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X]

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Bust: 31.5[35.5, 39.5, 43, 47, 52.5, 56.5] inches Length: 21[21.5, 22, 22.25, 22.25, 22.5, 22.75] inches

MATERIALS
Classic Elite Classic 150 (100% fine merino wool; 150yd/137m per 50g ball); color: #7234 Berry; 7[8, 9, 10, 10, 11, 12] balls Recommended needle size: 1 set US #4/3.5mm straight needles 1 set US #6/4mm straight needles [always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique] Stitch holders Stitch markers Tapestry needle

GAUGE
25 sts/ 32 rows = 4 inches in English Mesh Lace using larger needles, after blocking

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here]
M1p (Make 1 purl stitch): Insert left needle, from back to front, under strand of yarn which runs between last stitch on left needle and first stitch on right needle; purl into front of this loop (stitch will be twisted). 1 stitch increased. SK2P: Sl 1, k2tog, pass slipped st over. 2 sts decreased. 1x1 Rib (Worked over an even number of sts): Row 1: [K1, p1] to end. Repeat this row for 1x1 Rib. English Mesh Lace (Worked over a multiple of 6 sts + 3): Row 1 [RS]: K2, [yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k1] to last st, k1. Even-Numbered Rows 2-8 [WS]: P all sts. Row 3 [RS]: K2, [yo, k1, SK2P, k1, yo, k1] to last st, k1. Row 5 [RS]: K2, [k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k1] to last st, k1. Row 7 [RS]: K1, k2tog, [(k1, yo) twice, k1, SK2P] to last 7 sts, [k1, yo] twice, k1, ssk, k1. Repeat Rows 1–8 for English Mesh Lace. Shaping Note: Within the lace pattern, each [yo] is paired with a decrease. When increasing or decreasing at edge of work (ie. when shaping waist, armholes, etc.), be sure to keep lace pattern correct. Do not work a [yo] if there are not enough sts to work its accompanying decrease. Three-Needle Bind Off Hold both pieces of knitting with right sides together. Insert needle into first st on front needle and first st on back needle, and knit them together. Repeat this for the next st on the front and back needles. Draw the first st worked over the second st. Repeat from * to * until all sts have been bound off. Break yarn and draw through remaining st. Instructions for Mattress Stitch can be found here.

DIRECTIONS
BACK Using smaller needles, CO 98[110, 122, 134, 146, 164, 176] sts. Work in 1x1 Rib until work measures 2.75 inches. Next Row [WS]: P to last st, m1p, p1. 99[111, 123, 135, 147, 165, 177] sts. Switch to larger needles and work Rows 1-8 of English Mesh Lace pattern. Note: If you wish to lengthen the sweater, work more rows before beginning waist shaping. Shape Waist: Decrease Row [RS]: K1, ssk, work in pattern to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 97[109, 121, 133, 145, 163, 175] sts. Sizes XS, S, M Only: Work 9 rows in patt. Work Decrease Row. 95[107, 119, -, -, -, -] sts. Work 7 rows in pattern. Work Decrease Row. Repeat these 8 rows once more. 91[103, 115, -, -, -] sts. Sizes L, 1X Only: Work 7 rows in pattern. Work Decrease Row. Repeat these 8 rows once more. -[-, -, 129, 141, -, -] sts. Work 5 rows in pattern. Work Decrease Row. Repeat these 6 rows once more. -[-, -, 125, 137, -, -] sts. Sizes 2X, 3X Only: Work 5 rows in pattern. Work Decrease Row. Repeat these 6 rows twice more. -[-, -, -, -, 157, 169] sts. Work 3 rows in pattern. Work Decrease Row. Repeat these 4 rows twice more. -[-, -, -, -, 151, 163] sts. All Sizes: Continue in pattern until work measures 9.75 inches, ending with a WS row. Increase Row [RS]: K1, m1, work in pattern to last st, m1, k1. 93[105, 117, 127, 139, 153, 165] sts. Sizes XS, S, M Only: Work 7 rows in pattern. Work Increase Row. Repeat these 8 rows once more. 97[109, 121, -, -, -] sts. Work 9 rows in patt. Work Increase Row. 99[111, 123, -, -, -, -] sts. Sizes L, 1X Only: Work 5 rows in pattern. Work Increase Row. Repeat these 6 rows once more. -[-, -, 131, 143, -, -] sts. Work 7 rows in pattern. Work Increase Row. Repeat these 8 rows once more. -[-, -, 135, 147, -, -] sts. Sizes 2X, 3X Only: Work 3 rows in pattern. Work Increase Row. Repeat these 4 rows twice more. -[-, -, -, -, 159, 171] sts. Work 5 rows in pattern. Work Increase Row. Repeat these 6 rows twice more. -[-, -, -, -, 165, 177] sts. All Sizes: Continue in pattern until work measures 14 inches or desired length to underarm, ending with a WS row. Shape Armholes: BO 4[5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 11] sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 91[101, 111, 121, 131, 147, 155] sts. BO 3[3, 3, 4, 4, 6, 7] sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 85[95, 105, 113, 123, 135, 141] sts. BO 2[2, 2, 2, 2, 4, 4] sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 81[91, 101, 109, 119, 127, 133] sts. Decrease Row [RS]: K1, ssk, work in pattern to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. P 1 row. Repeat these 2 rows 1[2, 4, 5, 7, 8, 8] times more. 77[85, 91, 97, 103, 109, 115] sts. Work Decrease Row. Work 3 rows in pattern. Repeat these 4 rows twice more. 71[79, 85, 91, 97, 103, 109] sts. Continue in pattern until work measures 20.75[21.25, 21.75, 22, 22, 22.25, 22.5] inches (armhole measures 6.75[7.25, 7.75, 8, 8, 8.25, 8.5] inches), ending with a RS row. Next Row [WS]: P14[15, 17, 20, 22, 25, 26], join second ball of yarn and BO 43[49, 51, 51, 53, 53, 57] sts, p to end. 2 sets of 14[15, 17, 20, 22, 25, 26] sts. Working each side separately, work 2 rows in patt. Work measures 21[21.5, 22, 22.25, 22.25, 22.5, 22.75] inches; armhole measures 7[7.5, 8, 8.25, 8.25, 8.5, 8.75] inches. Place sts on st holders. FRONT Work as for back to beginning of armhole shaping, working last row before armhole shaping as follows: Next Row [WS]: P47[53, 59, 65, 71, 80, 86], place marker, p52[58, 64, 70, 76, 85, 91]. Shape Armholes and Divide for Placket: Note: Read ahead! Placket shaping and armhole shaping are worked at the same time. Row 1 [RS]: BO 4[5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 11] sts, work in pattern to end. Row 2 [WS]: BO 4[5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 11] sts, p to marker, join second ball of yarn and BO 5 sts, p to end. 43[48, 53, 58, 63, 71, 75] sts in each half. In the directions that follow, “first half” will refer to the set of sts worked before the gap created by the BO sts at center front. Directions for first half and second half will be separated by a semi-colon. Working both sides at the same time using attached balls of yarn, continue to shape armholes as for Back. *AT THE SAME TIME:* Shape placket opening as follows: Next Row [RS]: Work in patt to last st of first half, kfb; kfb, work in pattern to end of second half. From this point, maintain 1 st at placket edge of each half in stockinette st. Work 5 rows in pattern. Placket Decrease Row [RS]: Work in pattern to last 3 sts of first half, k2tog, k1; k1, ssk, work in pattern to end of second half. Work 7 rows in pattern. Repeat these 8 rows 3 times more. Work 2 more rows in pattern. 30[34, 37, 40, 43, 46, 49] sts in each half; placket and armhole shaping are complete. Shape neckline as follows: Row 1 [RS]: Work in pattern to end of first half; BO 6[5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6] sts, work in pattern to end. Row 2 [WS]: P to end of first half; BO 6[5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6] sts, p to end. 24[29, 32, 35, 37, 40, 43] sts in each half. Row 3 [RS]: Work in pattern to end of first half; BO 4 sts, work in pattern to end. Row 4 [WS]: P to end of first half; BO 4 sts, p to end. 20[25, 28, 31, 33, 36, 39] sts in each half. Row 5 [RS]: Work in pattern to end of first half; BO 2[3, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3] sts, work in pattern to end. Row 6 [WS]: P to end of first half; BO 2[3, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3] sts, p to end. 18[22, 26, 29, 30, 33, 36] sts in each half. Sizes S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X Only: Row 7 [RS]: Work in pattern to end of first half; BO 2 sts, work in pattern to end. Row 8 [WS]: P to end of first half; BO 2 sts, p to end. Repeat these 2 rows -[0, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1] time more. -[20, 22, 25, 26, 29, 32] sts in each half. All Sizes: Work Placket Decrease Row as above. P 1 row. Repeat these 2 rows 3[4, 4, 4, 3, 3, 5] times more. 14[15, 17, 20, 22, 25, 26] sts in each half. Continue in pattern until work measures same as back to shoulder. Join remaining sts of front to held sts of back using Three-Needle Bind Off. SLEEVES (Make 2) Using smaller needles, CO 56[62, 68, 80, 86, 98, 104 ] sts. Work in 1x1 Rib until work meas 2.75 inches. Next Row [WS]: P to last st, m1p, p1. 57[63, 69, 81, 87, 99, 105] sts. Switch to larger needles and work in English Mesh Lace pattern as follows: Increase Row [RS]: K1, m1, work in pattern to last st, m1, k1. 59[65, 71, 83, 89, 101, 107] sts. Size XS Only: Work 3 rows in pattern. Work Increase Row. Repeat these 4 rows twice more. 65 sts. Work 5 rows in pattern. Work Increase Row. Repeat these 6 rows once more. 69 sts. Sizes S, M, 3X Only: Work 5 rows in pattern. Work Increase Row. Repeat these 6 rows 3 times more. -[73, 79, -, -, -, 115] sts. Sizes L, 1X, 2X Only: Work 7 rows in pattern. Work Increase Row. Repeat these 8 rows twice more. -[-, -, 89, 95, 107, -] sts. All Sizes: Work 3 rows in pattern; last row worked is a WS row. Work measures 6.5 inches. Shape Sleeve Cap: BO 4[5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 11] sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 61[63, 67, 75, 79, 89, 93] sts. BO 3[3, 3, 4, 4, 6, 7] sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 55[57, 61, 67, 71, 77, 79] sts. BO 2[2, 2, 2, 2, 4, 4] sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 51[53, 57, 63, 67, 69, 71] sts. Decrease Row [RS]: K1, ssk, work in pattern to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. P 1 row. Repeat these 2 rows 1[1, 1, 4, 5, 5, 4] times more. 47[49, 53, 53, 55, 57, 61] sts. Work Decrease Row. Work 3 rows in pattern. Repeat these 4 rows 7[7, 8, 5, 4, 4, 5] times more. 31[33, 35, 41, 45, 47, 49] sts. Work Decrease Row. P 1 row. Repeat these 4 rows 2[2, 2, 5, 6, 6, 5] times more. 25[27, 29, 29, 31, 33, 37] sts. BO 2 sts at beginning of next 4 rows. BO remaining 17[19, 21, 21, 23, 25, 29] sts.

FINISHING
Block pieces to open up lace pattern, using schematic as a guide. Right Placket: Using smaller needles and with WS facing, pick up and p 1 st in each bound-off st at center front neckline. 5 sts. Row 1 [RS]: K1, m1, k1, p1, k1, kfb. 7 sts. Row 2 [WS]: P2, [k1, p1] twice, p1. Row 3 [RS]: Sl 1, [k1, p1] twice, k2. Repeat Rows 2-3 until placket reaches 1 row short of top of placket opening, ending with a WS row. Next Row [RS]: Sl 1, [k1, p1] twice, ssk. Break yarn and place remaining 6 sts on st holder. Left Placket: Using smaller needles and with WS facing, pick up and p 5 sts at base of right placket. Row 1 [RS]: Kfb, p1, k1, p1, m1, k1. 7 sts. Row 2 [WS]: Sl 1, [p1, k1] twice, p2. Row 3 [RS]: K2, [p1, k1] twice, k1. Repeat Rows 2-3 until work is 1 row shorter than right placket, ending with a WS row. Next Row [RS]: K2tog, [p1, k1] twice, k1. Break yarn and place remaining 6 sts on st holder. Sew edge of each placket to edge of placket opening using mattress stitch. Collar: Replace sts of right placket on smaller needle with RS facing and rejoin yarn. Work these sts in pattern, then pick up and k 24[25, 27, 28, 30, 31, 33] sts along right front neck edge, 47[53, 55, 55, 57, 57, 61] sts across back neck, and 24[25, 27, 28, 30, 31, 33] sts along left front neck edge; work sts of left placket in pattern. 109[117, 123, 125, 131, 133, 141] sts. Work in 1x1 Rib as established by plackets, slipping first st of each row, until collar measures 2.75 inches. Loosely BO all sts. Sew sleeve and side seams. Weave in ends and block seams.
ABOUT THE DESIGNER
Pam Allen is creative director at Classic Elite Yarns. She thinks, talks, dreams sweaters, but rarely has time to knit. Go figure.
Pattern & images © 2008 Pam Allen. Contact Pam