Knitty: little purls of wisdom
Knitting Etc Ithaca
Title
beauty shot

Tangy

Mr. Popper’s Penguins was one of our favorite books last winter, its quaint and old fashioned charm infused our chilly days.

Simultaneously, our hot water bottle was resurrected as a necessary bedtime ritual to keep my girl from shivering herself to sleep! A solution, and a knit one at that, was needed to cover the offensive red rubber water bottle. 

And so, Mr. Popper was born. He’s snuggly, he’s wooly, he’s whimsical and he’s warm...turn down your heat, fill up that bottle and climb in bed with Mr. Popper!

spacer photos: Laura Nelkin spacer photoshopping for ambience, knowing that it won't fool anyone: Amy Singer

SIZE
One Size, to fit standard hot water bottle approx 8 inches wide x 13 inches high.

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FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Approx 15.5 inches tall x 17 inches around at widest point. Since piece is felted, final size can be adjusted during the felting process.

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MATERIALS
Yarn

spacer [MC] Cascade Cascade 220 [100% wool; 220yd/201 m per 100g skein]; color: #8555 (black); 2 skeins
spacer [CC1] Cascade Cascade 220 [100% wool; 220yd/201 m per 100g skein]; color: #8010 (cream); 1 skein
spacer [CC2] Cascade Cascade 220 [100% wool; 220yd/201 m per 100g skein]; color: #7824 (orange); 5 grams


Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
spacer 16-inch US #11/8mm circular needle

spacer 1 set US #11/8mm double-point needles
OR
spacer 1 long US #11/8mm circular needle for magic loop method
OR
spacer 2 US #11/8mm circular needles for 2-circulars method

Notions
spacer Yarn needle
spacer Stitch marker
spacer Wool fleece or stuffing
spacer Two 1-inch square pieces of black velcro
spacer Sewing needle and thread
spacer Hot water bottle (standard size)
spacer Felting needle (optional)
spacer Googly Eyes (optional)

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GAUGE

spacer12 sts/16 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch with yarn doubled, BEFORE felting

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

Work with yarn held double throughout project.  I wound my yarn into center pull balls and used both ends.

When switching between yarn colors make sure you catch the yarn you are done using with the first st of the new color.  This will ensure there are no holes in between color changes.

Chart: Click for the chart; it will print on one letter-sized page.

Intarsia-in-the-Round Yarnover Method:
With this method, you will knit back and forth as you would with flat knitting, and make a join at the turn with a yarnover so that you are still working in the round.  At the end of each round, you will work a decrease (either k2tog tbl or p2tog) working the last ‘normal’ st of the round together with the yo made at the end of the previous round.

Wrap and turn:  

On RS: Bring yarn to front of work, slip next st purlwise onto the right-hand needle, bring yarn to back of work, then slip stitch back to left needle. Turn work.
On WS: Bring yarn to back of work, slip next st purlwise onto the right-hand needle, bring yarn to front of work, then slip stitch back to left needle. Turn work.

Working stitches together with their wraps:
On RS: Insert needle into wrap from underneath, and knit wrap together with stitch.
On WS: Insert needle from underneath into the wrap on the right side (i.e. the side facing away from you); lift it up onto the left-hand needle, and purl it together with the wrapped stitch.

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DIRECTIONS

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BACK FLAP
With two strands of MC and dpns/long circular/single short circular CO 16 sts.  Do not join.
Row 1 [WS]: Purl.
Row 2 [RS]: Knit.
Row 3 [WS]: Purl.

Row 4
[RS]: K1, m1, k to last st, m1, k1. (18 sts)
Row 5 [WS]: Purl.
Row 6 [RS]: Knit
Row 7 [WS]: Purl
Repeat these last 4 rows 3 more times. (24 sts)

Knit 1 row, then CO 22 more sts at the end of this row.  Join for working in the round, being careful not to twist sts and k35 sts, pm (end of round, center back of penguin). (46 sts total)

Knit 1 round.

BODY
See Pattern Notes above for how to work with yarnovers for intarsia in the round!  You will be working this portion of Mr. Popper with 2 sets of MC and one set of white strands. 

Follow the written instructions and refer to the chart as a guide.

Round 1 [RS]: With MC k8, switch to CC1, k30, attach another set of MC, k8, slip marker, turn, yo on right-hand needle, slip marker.

Round 2 [WS]: With MC p8, switch to CC1, p30, switch to MC, p7, p2tog, slip marker, turn, yo on right-hand needle, slip marker.

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Round 3 [RS]: With MC k8, switch to CC1, k30, attach new ball of MC, k7, k2tog tbl, slip marker, turn, yo on right-hand needle, slip marker.

Round 4 [WS]: With MC p8, switch to CC1, p30, switch to MC, p7, p2tog, slip marker, turn, yo on right-hand needle, slip marker.

Repeat Rounds 3 and 4 three times more.

Round 11 [RS]: With MC k9 , switch to CC1, k28, switch to MC, k8, k2tog tbl, slip marker, turn, yo on right-hand needle, slip marker.

Round 12 [WS]: With MC p9, switch to CC1, p28, switch to MC, p8, p2tog, slip marker, turn, yo on right-hand needle, slip marker.

Repeat Rounds 11 and 12 twice more.

Round 17 [RS]: With MC k10, switch to CC1, k26, switch to MC, k9, k2tog tbl, slip marker, turn, yo on right-hand needle, slip marker.

Round 18 [WS]: With MC p10, switch to CC1, p26, switch to MC, p9, p2tog, slip marker, turn, yo on right-hand needle, slip marker.

Round 19 [RS]: With MC k11, switch to CC1, k24, switch to MC, k10, k2tog tbl, slip marker, turn, yo on right-hand needle, slip marker.

Round 20 [WS]: With MC p11, switch to CC1, p24, switch to MC, p10, p2tog, slip marker, turn, yo on right-hand needle, slip marker.

Round 21 [RS]: With MC k12 , switch to CC1, k22, switch to MC, k11, k2tog tbl, slip marker, turn, yo on right-hand needle, slip marker.

Round 22 [WS]: With MC p12, switch to CC1, p22, switch to MC, p11, p2tog, slip marker, turn, yo on right-hand needle, slip marker.
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Round 23 [RS]: With MC k13 , switch to CC1, k20, switch to MC, k12, k2tog tbl, slip marker, turn, yo on right-hand needle, slip marker.

Round 24 [WS]: With MC p13, switch to CC1, p20, switch to MC, p12, p2tog, slip marker, turn, yo on right-hand needle, slip marker.

Round 25 [RS]: With MC k14 , switch to CC1, k18, switch to MC, k13, k2tog tbl, slip marker, turn, yo on right-hand needle, slip marker.

Round 26 [WS]: With MC p14, switch to CC1, p18, switch to MC, p13, p2tog, slip marker, turn, yo on right-hand needle, slip marker.

Repeat Rounds 25 and 26 twice more.

Round 31 [RS]: With MC k15 , switch to CC1, k16, switch to MC, k14, k2tog tbl, slip marker, turn, yo on right-hand needle, slip marker.

Round 32 [WS]: With MC p15, switch to CC1, p16, switch to MC, p14, p2tog, slip marker, turn, yo on right-hand needle, slip marker.

Repeat Rounds 31 and 32 twice more.

Round 37 [RS]: With MC k16 , switch to CC1, k14, switch to MC, k15, k2tog tbl, slip marker, turn, yo on right-hand needle, slip marker.

Round 38 [WS]: With MC p16, switch to CC1, p14, switch to MC, p15, p2tog, slip marker, turn, yo on right-hand needle, slip marker.

Note: On Rounds 39 and 40, you will be binding off and casting on 6 sts at each side of the penguin.  You will be inserting flippers here later.

Round 39 [RS]: With MC k9, BO6, switch to CC1, k14, switch to MC, k1, BO6, k7, k2tog tbl, slip marker, turn, yo on right-hand needle, slip marker.

Round 40 [WS]: With MC p9, CO6, p1, switch to CC1, p14, switch to MC, p1, CO6, p8, p2tog, slip marker, turn, yo on right-hand needle, slip marker.

Round 41 [RS]: Same as Round 37.

Round 42 [WS]: With MC, p9, p2tog, p2tog tbl, p3, switch to CC1, p14, switch to MC, p3, p2tog, p2tog tbl, p8, p2tog, slip marker, turn, yo on right-hand needle, slip marker.

Round 43 [RS]: With MC k14 , switch to CC1, k14, switch to MC, k13, k2tog tbl, slip marker, turn, yo on right-hand needle, slip marker.

Round 44 [WS]: With MC p14, switch to CC1, p14, switch to MC, p13, p2tog, slip marker, turn, yo on right-hand needle, slip marker.

Repeat Rounds 43 and 44 once more.

Round 47 [RS]: With MC k8, ssk, k2tog, k3, switch to CC1, k12, switch to MC, k3, ssk, k2tog, k7, k2tog tbl, slip marker, turn, yo on right-hand needle, slip marker.

Round 48 [WS]: With MC p13, switch to CC1, p12, switch to MC, p12, p2tog, slip marker, turn, yo on right-hand needle, slip marker.

Round 49 [RS]: With MC k13, switch to CC1, k12, switch to MC, k12, k2tog tbl, slip marker, turn, yo on right-hand needle, slip marker.

Round 50 [WS]: With MC, p7, p2tog, p2tog tbl, p2, switch to CC1, p12, switch to MC, p2, p2tog, p2tog tbl, p6, p2tog, slip marker, turn, yo on right-hand needle, slip marker.

Switch to DPNs when it becomes uncomfortable to work on the circular needle.

Round 51 [RS]: With MC k11, switch to CC1, k12, switch to MC, k10, k2tog tbl, slip marker, turn, yo on right-hand needle, slip marker.

Round 52 [WS]: With MC p11, switch to CC1, p12, switch to MC, p10, p2tog, slip marker, turn, yo on right-hand needle, slip marker.

Round 53 [RS]: With MC k6, ssk, k2tog, k1, switch to CC1, k12, switch to MC, k1, ssk, k2tog, k5, k2tog tbl, slip marker, turn, yo on right-hand needle, slip marker.

Round 54 [WS]: With MC p9, switch to CC1, p12, switch to MC, p8, p2tog, slip marker, turn, yo on right-hand needle, slip marker. (30 sts rem)

Cut CC1 yarn and non-working MC yarn, leaving 6 inch tails. K1 round in MC, stopping at end of round, remembering to knit together last yarn-over with final stitch.

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HEAD
With MC only:
Row 1 [RS]: K9, wrap and turn.

Row 2 [WS]: P18, wrap and turn.

Row 3 [RS]: K17, wrap and turn.

Row 4 [WS]: P16, wrap and turn.

Row 5 [RS]:K15, wrap and turn.

Row 6 [WS]: P14, wrap and turn.

Row 7 [RS]: K13, wrap and turn.

Row 8
[WS]: P12, wrap and turn.

Row 9 [RS]: K11, wrap and turn.

Row 10
[WS]: P10, wrap and turn.

Row 11 [RS]: Knit to end of round.

Next round: Knit 10 sts, picking up wraps and knitting them together with wrapped st (see Pattern Notes above), k2tog, k6, k2tog, k to end picking up wraps and knitting them together with wrapped st. (28 sts rem)

Row 1 [RS]: K6, wrap and turn.

Row 2 [WS]: P12, wrap and turn.

Row 3 [RS]: K11, wrap and turn.

Row 4 [WS]: P10, wrap and turn.

Row 5 [RS]: K9, wrap and turn.

Row 6 [WS]: P8, wrap and turn.

Row 7 [RS]: K7, wrap and turn.

Row 8 [WS]: P6, wrap and turn.

Row 9 [RS]: K5, wrap and turn.

Row 10 [WS]: P4, wrap and turn.

Row 11 [RS]: K3, wrap and turn.

Row 12 [WS]: P2, wrap and turn.

From here, you’ll work in full rounds.

Next round: K10 picking up wraps and knitting them together with wrapped st, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k to end picking up wraps and knitting them together with wrapped st. (26 sts rem)

Round 1: K9, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k to end. (24 sts rem)
Round 2: [K4, k2tog], repeat to end of round. (20 sts rem)
Round 3: Knit. Cut MC yarn leaving a 6-inch tail.

Switch to CC2 yarn for beak:
Round 1: [K3, k2tog], repeat to end of round. (16 sts rem)
K2 rounds.
Round 4: [K2, k2tog], repeat to end of round. (12 sts rem)
K2 rounds.
Round 7: [K1, k2tog], repeat to end of round. (8 sts rem)
K2 rounds.
Round 10: [K2tog], repeat to end of round. (4 sts) 
Cut yarn, leaving a 6 inch tail, thread through final stitches and pull tight to close.

FLIPPERS
With CC1 pick up and knit 6 sts from lower edge of armhole.
With MC pick up and knit 8 sts from upper edge of armhole.

You will now begin working intarsia in the round for the flipper.
Round 1 [WS]: Turn, yo on right-hand needle, p8, switch to CC1, p5, p2tog, turn, yo on right-hand needle.
Round 2 [RS]: K6, switch to MC, k7, k2tog tbl, turn, yo on right-hand needle.
Round 3 [WS]: P8, switch to CC1, p5, p2tog, turn, yo on right-hand needle.
Repeat these 2 rounds until 14 sts rem, and flipper is 3 inches long. (14 sts)

Round 1 [RS]: K5, switch to MC, k2tog, k6, k3tog tbl, turn, yo on right-hand needle (2 CC1 sts decreased; 12 sts remain.)
Round 2 [WS]: P8, switch to CC1, p3, p2tog, turn, yo on right-hand needle.
Round 3 [RS]: K4, switch to MC, k2tog, k4, k3tog tbl, turn, yo on right-hand needle.  (2 MC sts decreased; 10 sts remain.)
Round 4 [WS]: P6, switch to CC1, p3, p2tog, turn, yo on right-hand needle.
Round 5 [RS]: K3, switch to MC, k2tog, k4, k3tog tbl, turn, yo on right-hand needle. (2 CC1 sts decreased; 8 sts remain)
Round 6 [WS]: P6, switch to CC1, p1, p2tog, turn, yo on right-hand needle.
Round 7 [RS]: K2, cut CC1 yarn and switch to MC, k2tog, k2, k3tog tbl. (2 MC sts decreased; 6 sts remain)
Continuing around, k2tog 3 times, cut yarn leaving a 6-inch tail, thread through final 3 stitches and pull tight to close.

Make second flipper the same.
Weave in ends, taking care to close up any holes where the flippers meet the body.

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FINISHING
Weave in any loose ends.
Felt (follow directions here). Put water bottle into Mr. Popper to block him while he dries; this will ensure a PERFECT fit!
Sew Velcro onto flap and backside of Mr. Popper to keep flap closed over hot water bottle.
Apply eyes by needle felting bits of the yarn on, using googly eyes or embroidery.

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ABOUT THE DESIGNER

designernamespacer Laura splits her work hours between NelkinDesigns and her paying gig as the design director at Schaefer Yarn Company. Sometimes she is overcome by the desire to knit with black and white yarn, and so Mr. Popper was born!

Visit Laura at her blog or follow her on Twitter.

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