This
design started with a challenge. Can you design a
garment from natural, undyed yarn that looks fashionable
and stylish rather than rustic? I figured I would
need a yarn that is stunning enough in its natural
state, a flattering shape, and a bit of interesting
contrast both in color and texture.
When it comes
to yarn, nothing is more beautiful to me than Wensleydale
wool. Since my favorite brand of this yarn is imported
from the UK and therefore quite pricey for the US
knitter, I was thrilled to find a couple of American
Wensleydale breeders at Rhinebeck one year. Many
sketches and swatches later, I had come up with this
fitted, short sleeved pullover with contrasting knitted
hems and a generous trinity stitch cowl to show off
the yarn’s beautiful texture and create an
elegant, flattering shape. Gathered shoulders add
a vintage touch to the design.
On the sleeve of each skein of yarn, you will find
the name of the sheep whose fleece it was spun from
- in this case the sheep were named Sampson and Lila.
I think they make a dashing couple and I’d
like to believe that wearing Sampson’s long,
lustrous locks will give the wearer the strength
to deal with any challenge she might face. Dressed
in this pullover, neither lions nor philistines can
ruin your day.
Recommended needle size [always use a needle
size that gives you the gauge
listed below -- every knitter's
gauge is unique] 1
set US #4/3.5 mm straight needles 1 set US # 3/3.25 mm straight needles 1 24-inch US #3/3.25 mm circular needle
20 sts/32 rows = 4" in stockinette
st using larger needles
PATTERN NOTES [Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]
m1p (Make 1 purl stitch): Insert left
needle, from back to front, under strand of yarn which runs
between last stitch on left needle and first stitch on right
needle; purl this stitch. 1 st increased (stitch will be twisted).
DIRECTIONS
BACK
Using smaller needles and CC, CO 77[87, 97, 107, 117, 127,
137] sts. Work 16 rows in stockinette st, ending with a WS row.
Next Row [RS]: *Insert tip of left needle
into back of CO st below next st on needle, k picked-up st together
with next st on needle; repeat from * until all sts have been
worked. Break CC.
Switching to larger needles and MC, continue as follows:
Next Row [WS]: K7[8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13],
k2tog, *k12[14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24], k2tog; repeat from * three
times, k7[8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13]. 72[82, 92, 102, 112, 122,
132] sts.
Continue in stockinette st until work measures 3[3, 3.5, 3.5,
3.5, 4, 4] inches, ending with a WS row. Note: As written, sweater will measure
14[14, 14.5, 15, 15, 15.5, 15.5] inches to underarm. To alter
length, work more or fewer rows at this point.
Decrease Row [RS]: K1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1.
Work 7 rows in pattern.
Repeat these 8 rows three times more,
then work Decrease Row once more. 62[72, 82, 92, 102, 112, 122]
sts.
Work 15 rows in pattern.
Increase Row [RS]: K1, m1, k to last st, m1, k1.
Work 7 rows in pattern.
Repeat these 8 rows three times more,
then work Increase Row once more. 72[82, 92, 102, 112, 122, 132]
sts.
Continue in stockinette st until work measures 14[14, 14.5,
15, 15, 15.5, 15.5] inches or desired length to underarm, ending
with a WS row.
Shape Armholes:
BO 4[5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10] sts at beginning
of next 2 rows. 64[72, 80, 88, 96, 104, 112] sts.
Decrease Row [RS]: K1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1.
P 1 row.
Repeat these 2 rows 2[3, 4, 5, 6, 7,
9] times more. 58[64, 70, 76, 82, 88, 92] sts.
Continue in stockinette st until work measures 6[6, 6.5, 7,
7.5, 7.5, 8] inches from beginning of armhole.
Shape Neckline: Next Row [RS]: K16[17, 19, 20, 21, 23,
24], place next 26[30, 32, 36, 40, 42, 44] sts on st holder
for back neckline; place last 16[17, 19, 20, 21, 23, 24] sts
on st holder for left shoulder.
Right Shoulder:
P 1 row. Next Row [RS]: K to last 3 sts, ssk,
k1.
Repeat these 2 rows 1[1, 2, 2, 2, 3,
3] times more. 14[15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20] sts.
Continue in stockinette st until work
measures 7[7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 9, 9.5] inches from beginning of armhole.
Place all sts on st holder.
Left Shoulder:
Place held sts of left shoulder on needle
and join yarn with RS facing. K 1 row.
P 1 row. Next Row [RS]: K1, k2tog, k to end.
Repeat these 2 rows 1[1, 2, 2, 2, 3,
3] times more. 14[15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20] sts.
Continue in stockinette st until work
measures 7[7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 9, 9.5] inches from beginning of armhole.
Place all sts on st holder.
FRONT
Work as for back until work measures 13[13, 13.5,
14, 14, 14.5, 14.5] inches or 1 inch
less than back to underarm, ending with
a WS row.
Note: Read ahead! Armhole shaping begins before neckline shaping
is complete.
Shape Neckline:
Next Row [RS]: K19[21, 23, 25, 27, 29,
30], place next 20[22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32] sts on st
holder for back neckline; place last 19[21, 23, 25, 27, 29,
30] sts on st holder for upper right front.
Upper Left Front:
P 1 row. Next Row [RS]: K to last 3 sts, ssk,
k1.
Repeat these 2 rows 4[5, 6, 7, 8, 9,
9] times more.
AT THE SAME TIME:
When work measures 14[14, 14.5, 15, 15,
15.5, 15.5] inches or same as back to underarm, shape armholes
as for back. When all shaping is complete, 14[15, 16, 17, 18,
19, 20] sts remain.
Continue in stockinette st until work measures same as back
to shoulders. Join to held sts of left back shoulder using three-needle
bind off (see Pattern Notes).
Upper Right Front:
Place held sts of upper right front on
needle and join yarn with RS facing. K 1 row.
P 1 row. Next Row [RS]: K1, k2tog, k to end.
Repeat these 2 rows 4[5, 6, 7, 8, 9,
9] times more.
AT THE SAME TIME:
When work measures 14[14, 14.5, 15, 15,
15.5, 15.5] inches or same as back to underarm, shape armholes
as for back. When all shaping is complete, 14[15, 16, 17, 18,
19, 20] sts remain.
Continue in stockinette st until work measures same as upper
left front. Join to held sts of right back shoulder using three-needle
bind off.
SLEEVES (Make 2)
Using smaller needles and CC,
CO 50[52, 57, 62, 70, 80, 87] sts. Work 16 rows in stockinette
st, ending with a WS row.
Next Row [RS]: *Insert tip of left needle
into back of CO st below next st on needle, k picked-up st together
with next st on needle; repeat from * until all sts have been
worked. Break CC.
Switching to larger needles and MC, work in stockinette st until
work measures 2[2, 2.5, 2.5, 3, 3, 3] inches or desired length
to underarm, ending with a WS row.
Shape Sleeve Cap:
BO 4[5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10] sts at beginning
of next 2 rows. 42[42, 45, 48, 54, 62, 67] sts.
Decrease Row [RS]: K1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1.
P 1 row.
Repeat these 2 rows 0[0, 0, 0, 0, 1,
2] times more. 40[40, 43, 46, 52, 58, 61] sts.
Work Decrease Row. Work 7 rows in stockinette st.
Repeat these 8 rows 3[3, 3, 3, 3, 3,
4] times more. 32[32, 35, 38, 44, 50, 51] sts.
Continue in stockinette st until work measures 6.5[7, 7.5, 7.75,
8.25, 8, 8.5] inches from underarm, ending with a WS row.
BO 4[4, 4, 5, 6, 7, 7] sts at beginning of next 4 rows.
BO remaining 16[16, 19, 18, 20, 22, 23]
sts.
FINISHING
Weave in ends and block to measurements shown in schematic.
Pin sleeve caps into armholes, beginning at underarm and working up each
side of cap towards top. Fold and pin fullness at top of sleeve cap into
pleats, then baste sleeves into armholes using smooth waste yarn. Try on
sweater to check fit and shape of sleeve caps, then adjust as necessary
before sewing sleeves into armholes and removing waste yarn. Sew sleeve
seams and side seams.
Cowl:
Using CC and circular needle in smaller
size, beginning at left shoulder seam with RS facing, pick
up and k 2 sts for every 3 rows and k all held sts around
neckline. Count sts; if necessary, increase or decrease 1
or 2 sts when working first round to obtain a multiple of
4 sts.
Turn work so that WS is facing. Work cowl with WS facing, so
that RS of cowl will be facing when folded over as shown. At
end of first round, place marker and join to work in the round. Round 1: P all sts. Round 2: *[P1, k1, p1] into next st (1
st increased to 3 sts), k3tog; repeat from * to end. Round 3: P all sts. Round 4: *K3tog, [p1, k1, p1] into next
st; repeat from * to end.
Repeat Rounds 1-4 for Trinity Stitch.
Continue in Trinity Stitch until work measures 9 inches, ending
with Round 1 or Round 3. Loosely BO all sts.
Weave in remaining ends. Block cowl, if
desired.
ABOUT THE DESIGNER
Insa knits, lives and works in Washington,
DC in exactly that order. She dreams of moving to the UK one day.
Her ravelry ID is Insa.
by 
