My family lived in many places while I was growing
up, following my stepfather’s mill jobs in
the pulp and paper industry. In Tacoma, Washington,
he picked up a genuine Cowichan sweater that he wore
as his winter coat for most of my childhood. When
we moved to the Canadian Maritimes, it was warm enough
for him even in January as he left for work before
sunrise. This sweater always felt important to me,
even though it smelled faintly of chlorinated wood
pulp and many guilty pleasure cigars. He gave
it up when my parents moved south after they retired,
but I’ve missed it like a family dog ever since.
If you choose to work flat with circular needles
or needles, you can start any row at either edge
of the knitting as you choose. This is particularly
handy for changing colors between charts and for
always beginning the garter ridge with the RS facing,
regardless of the direction of the row previously
worked. Pattern is written to be knit flat, but if
you are comfortable with steeks, there’s no
obstacle to working it in the round.
SIZE
S[M, L, 1X, 2X] (shown in size L, worn with 6“ positive
ease)
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS Chest: 39[44.5, 49.75, 55, 60.5] inches, with fronts buttoned Note: Choose a size with at least 4 inches of positive ease. Length: 24[26, 28, 29.5, 30] inches
Recommended needle size [always use a needle
size that gives you the gauge
listed below -- every knitter's
gauge is unique] 1
set US #8/5mm double-point needles 1 US #8/5mm circular needle, 32 inches or longer 1 US #9/5.5mm circular needle, 32 inches or longer
Notions Stitch
markers Stitch holders or spare needles Yarn needle 6 buttons, approx. diameter 1.5 inches(buy buttons after sweater is complete
to ensure correct size) Sewing needle and thread
GAUGE
18 sts / 20 rows = 4 inches
in stranded colorwork chart pattern using larger needles, after
blocking Note: The yarn is worked more tightly than
the recommended ball band gauge to yield a thick, firm fabric.
PATTERN NOTES [Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]
Three-needle bind off is usually
worked with right sides held together;
for this project it is worked with wrong
sides held together, so that a decorative
ridge is formed on RS of work.
Instructions for the Backward Loop Cast
On can be found here.
Charts The chart for this pattern is very large and fits on a letter-sized
page.
Click here and print the resulting
page.
DIRECTIONS
LOWER BODY
Using smaller circular needle and MC, CO 168[192, 216,
240, 264] sts. Do not join; sweater is worked back and forth in
rows.
Row 1 [RS]: K3, [p2, k2] to last st, k1.
Row 2 [WS]: P3, [k2, p2] to last st,
p1.
These 2 rows set 2x2 Rib for lower band.
Continue in 2x2 Rib until band measures 2.5 inches, ending with
a WS row.
Switching to larger circular needle, work 0[0, 4, 4, 4] rows
in stockinette st.
Important: If you wish to change the length, note that the sweater
has been designed so that the colorwork bands on the body and
sleeves line up when worn. Notes are included throughout the
pattern to indicate where length can be added/reduced. Remember
to note the number of rows added or subtracted, so that sleeves
and body can both be altered to match!
If you wish to lengthen the body without changing the sleeve
length, work more rows before beginning chart patterns.
Next Row [RS]: Beginning and ending as indicated below, work
Row 1 of Chart A, placing markers between pattern repeats (edges
of chart).
Begin with 7th[13th, 1st, 7th, 13th]
st of chart; end with 12th[6th, 18th, 12th, 6th] st of chart.
Note: Leave markers in place throughout, even when working solid-colored
sections. After sts have been bound off for underarms, these
markers will be used to help align chart patterns for upper fronts
and back.
Work Rows 2-30 of Chart A.
Work 9 rows stockinette st, ending with
a RS row.
K 1 WS row.
Work Rows 1-25 of Chart B, beginning
and ending as indicated for your size. Stitch markers will align
with pattern repeats.
Join MC with RS facing. K 2 rows.
Continue in stockinette st until work meaures 16[17, 18, 19,
19] inches, ending with a WS row.
If you wish to shorten the body, or to lengthen or shorten
both the body and the sleeves, work more or fewer rows
before shaping armholes.
Shape Armholes: Next Row [RS]: K36[41, 46, 51, 56], BO
12[14, 16, 18, 20] sts, k71[81, 91, 101, 111] (72[82, 92, 102,
112] sts on right needle after bound off sts); place last 48[55,
62, 69, 76] sts on spare needle or st holder for left front,
leaving markers in place. Place first 36[41, 46, 51, 56] sts
of row on st holder or spare needle for right front, leaving
markers in place.
UPPER BACK
Work 2 rows in stockinette st, ending with a RS row.
Work Rows 1-43 of Chart A, aligning pattern
repeats with stitch markers.
Removing markers, work in stockinette
st using MC until work measures 8[9, 10, 10.5, 11] inches from
underarm, ending with a WS row.
Next Row [RS]: K23[27, 30, 33, 36], BO 26[28, 32, 36, 40] sts,
k to end. Place two sets of 23[27, 30, 33, 36] sts on st holders.
UPPER LEFT FRONT
Place 48[55, 62, 69, 76] held sts of upper left
front on larger circular needle and join MC with RS facing. BO
12[14, 16, 18, 20] sts, k to end. 36[41, 46, 51, 56] sts.
Work 2 rows in stockinette st.
Work Rows 1-43 of Chart A, aligning pattern repeats with stitch
markers, then continue in stockinette st using MC. AT THE SAME TIME,
when work measures 3[3.5, 3.75, 3,
3.25] inches from underarm, ending
with a WS row, shape neckline as follows:
Neckline Decrease Row [RS]: Work in pattern to last 2 sts, ssk.
Work 1 WS row in pattern.
Repeat these 2 rows 12[13, 15, 17, 19]
times more. 23[27, 30, 33, 36] sts.
Continue in stockinette st until work measures 8.25[9.25,
10.25, 10.75, 11.25] inches from underarm, ending with a WS row.
(Note: Upper front is 0.25 inch longer than upper back.)
With RS facing, join to held sts of back
left shoulder using three-needle bind off (see Pattern Notes).
Note: Three-needle bind off is usually
worked with right sides held together; for this project it is
worked with wrong sides held together, so that a decorative ridge
is formed on the RS of the work.
UPPER RIGHT FRONT
Place held sts of right front on larger circular
needle and join MC with WS facing (at armhole edge).
Work 2 rows in stockinette st.
Work Rows 1-43 of Chart A, aligning pattern repeats with stitch
markers, then continue in stockinette st using MC. AT THE SAME TIME,
when work measures 3[3.5, 3.75, 3,
3.25] inches from underarm, ending
with a WS row, shape neckline as follows:
Neckline Decrease Row [RS]: K2tog, work in pattern to end.
Work 1 WS row in pattern.
Repeat these 2 rows 12[13, 15, 17, 19]
times more. 23[27, 30, 33, 36] sts.
Continue as for upper left front.
SLEEVES (Make 2)
Using smaller circular needle and MC, CO 44[46,
52, 54, 56] sts. Do not join.
Row 1 [RS]: K3[2, 3, 2, 3], [p2, k2] to last 1[0, 1, 0, 1] st,
k1[0, 1, 0, 1].
Row 2 [WS]: P3[2, 3, 2, 3], [k2, p2]
to last 1[0, 1, 0, 1] st, p1[0, 1, 0, 1].
These 2 rows set 2x2 Rib for cuff. Continue
in pattern until cuff measures 3 inches, ending with a WS row.
Note: Read ahead! Sleeve shaping instructions are worked at
the same time as color pattern instructions.
Switching to larger needles, work 4[6,
8, 8, 8] rows in stockinette st.
If you wish to lengthen or shorten the sleeves but left
the body the same length, work more or fewer rows at this point. If you shortened the body but do
not wish to shorten the sleeves, lengthen
the sleeves at this point by the same
number of rows that you shortened the
body. Note that if you have changed the
length of this band of stockinette
st and worked more or fewer increase
rows (see below), the beginning and
ending points for the chart may change
as well.
AT THE SAME TIME: Beginning on 7th[5th, 5th, 5th, 5th] row after
cuff, shape sleeve as follows:
Increase Row [RS]: K1, m1, work in pattern
to last st, m1, k1.
Work 5[3, 3, 3, 3] rows in pattern, working
increased sts into chart pattern as set.
Repeat these 6[4, 4, 4, 4] rows 13[16,
18, 19, 21] times more. 72[80, 90, 94, 100] sts.
AT THE SAME TIME: After working stockinette st band above cuff,
continue as follows:
Work Rows 1-30 of Chart A, beginning
and ending as indicated below, placing markers between pattern
repeats of chart.
Begin with 6th[4th, 1st, 18th, 17th]
st of chart; end with 13th[15th, 18th, 1st, 2nd] st of chart
(based on 44[48, 54, 56, 58] sts).
Work 9 rows stockinette st, ending with a RS row.
K 1 WS row.
Work Rows 1-25 of Chart B, aligning pattern
repeats with stitch markers.
Join MC with RS facing. K 2 rows, removing
markers.
Continue in stockinette st until work meaures 17[18, 19, 20,
20] inches or desired length to underarm, ending with a WS row.
If you lengthened or shortened the band of stockinette st
after Chart B when working the body, lengthen or shorten this
band by the same amount.
Note: Edges of remaining length of sleeve will be sewn to bound
off underarm edges of body.
Work Rows 1-13 of Chart C, beginning and ending as indicated
below.
Begin with 1st[6th, 1st, 5th, 5th] st
of chart; end with 6th[1st, 6th, 2nd, 2nd] st of chart.
Work 0[2, 4, 6, 8] rows in stockinette st using MC. Loosely
BO all sts.
FRONT BANDS AND SHAWL COLLAR Note: Instructions below are for
a woman's sweater, with buttonholes worked in right band. If
making a man's sweater, work buttonholes in left band instead.
Left Front Band:
Using double-point needle in smaller
size and MC, and leaving a tail approx. 1 yd long (used for
sewing band in place), CO 8 sts.
Work in garter st until band is long enough to reach from lower
left front corner to beginning of neckline shaping, when slightly
stretched. Make a note of the number of garter st ridges worked,
so that buttonholes can be spaced evenly when working right front
band.
Leaving sts on needle and with working yarn positioned at right
edge of band, use tail to sew band to left front edge of sweater,
so thst upper edge (sts on needle) aligned with beginning of
neckline shaping. Working yarn should be between band and sweater
edge, ready to work a RS row.
Shape Left Front Collar:
Next Row [RS]: Pick up and
k 1 st in edge of sweater, k to end of
band. 1 st increased.
K 1 row.
Repeat these 2 rows, picking up 1 st
for every 2 rows along edge of sweater, until you reach the shoulder
seam, ending with a WS row (yarn is positioned between sweater
and band). Break yarn; leave sts on hold on double-point needle
(holding needle). Count sts; it will be important for both sides
of collar to have the same number of sts.
Right Front Band:
Work as for left front band to beginning
of neckline shaping, working 6 buttonholes evenly spaced along
length of band as follows: Buttonhole Row 1 [RS]: K3, BO 2 sts,
k2 (3 sts on right needle after bound off sts). Buttonhole Row 2 [WS]: K3, CO 2 sts using
backward loop method (see Pattern Notes), k3.
Work first buttonhole approx. 1.25 inches
from lower edge, and last buttonhole just below beginning of
neckline shaping.
End band with a WS row. Leaving sts on needle and with working
yarn positioned at right edge of band, use tail to sew band to
right front edge of sweater, so that upper edge is aligned with
beginning of neckline shaping. Working yarn should be at outer
edge of band, ready to work a RS row.
Shape Right Front Collar:
Next Row [RS]: K to end of
band, pick up and k 1 st in edge of sweater.
1 st increased.
K 1 row.
Repeat these 2 rows, picking up 1 st
for every 2 rows along edge of sweater, until you reach the shoulder
seam, ending with a WS row. Count sts to be sure that right and
left sides of collar have the same number of sts. Break yarn;
leave sts on holding needle.
Back Collar:
Using circular needle in smaller size
and MC, with RS facing, pick up and k 26[28, 32, 36, 40] sts
(1 st in each bound off st) across back neck edge.
Shape collar stand:
Row 1 [WS]: K to last st on circular
needle, k this st together with first st
from adjacent holding needle.
Row 2 [RS]: Work as for Row 1.
Repeat these 2 rows until back collar
measures 2[2.5, 3, 3, 3.5] inches, ending with a RS row.
Shape back collar:
Row 3 [WS]: K to end of circular
needle, k1 from holding needle, W&T. 1 st increased on circular
needle.
Row 4 [RS]: Work as for Row 3.
Repeat these 2 rows until 1 st remains
on each holding needle.
Next Two Rows: K to end of circular needle, k remaining st from
holding needle.
Loosely BO all sts.
FINISHING
Weave in ends and block to measurements shown.
Sew sleeves into armholes. Sew sleeve seams and side seams.
Sew buttons to left front band opposite buttonholes.
by
Julia Farwell-Clay
