I knit this cardigan for my holiday. It was designed to be
loose, casual and in a neutral color so
that I could wear it with everything. I like to pack light and
going to Florida, I didn’t want to bring more than one
warm cover up.
However all did not go according to plan. I did bring this cardigan on
holiday with me and I also took some very nice photos on the beach with
it. What I wasn’t planning on, though, was my sister-in-law. Nicki
came to visit, picked up the cardigan and tried it on. It was a perfect
match and I just had to give it to her.
As you will probably agree from
the photos, this cardigan was most definitely made for Nicki.
model: Nicki photos: Joseph
XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X] (shown in size medium)
Chest: 30.5[34.5, 38.5, 42.5, 46.5, 50.5, 54.5] inches, with
front bands overlapped
Length: 20[20.5, 21, 21.5, 21.5, 22.5, 23.5] inches Note: Choose a size that is 2-4 inches larger than actual bust measurement
for recommended loose fit.
Recommended needle size [always use a needle
size that gives you the gauge
listed below -- every knitter's
gauge is unique]
set US #11/8mm double-point needles
1 US #11/8mm circular needle, 32 inches or longer (longer needle recommended
for larger sizes)
hook, approx. size US #J/10 / 6mm
2 locking stitch markers or safety pins
2 large buttons
2 large plastic snaps
sts/16 rows = 4" in stockinette st
PATTERN NOTES [Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]
M1L (left-leaning increase):
Insert left needle, from front
to back, under strand of yarn which
runs between last stitch on left
needle and first stitch on right needle; knit this stitch through
back loop. 1 stitch increased.
M1R (right-leaning increase): Insert left needle, from
back to front, under strand of yarn which runs between
last stitch on left needle and first stitch on right needle;
knit this stitch through front loop. 1 stitch increased.
W&T (Wrap & Turn; worked in garter st):
Knit to point specified in pattern, bring
yarn to front of work between needles, slip next stitch
to right-hand needle, bring yarn around this stitch to
back of work, slip stitch back to left-hand needle, turn
work to begin knitting back in the other direction.
Bring yarn between needles to back of
work, and pull snugly before working next st. Wrapping
st in this way will ensure most invisible and attractive
If you have worked short rows before,
you may be used to working wraps together with wrapped
sts on subsequent rows. This is not necessary for this
project; the wrapped sts will not detract from the appearance
of the piece.
Instructions for the Backward Loop
Cast On can be found
Raglan Increase Row [RS]: [K to 1 st
before marker, kfb, slip marker, kfb] four times, k to
end. 8 sts increased.
Repeat these 2 rows 12[13, 14, 15, 15,
17, 19] times more. 148[154, 160, 164, 166, 182, 200] sts.
Divide Body from Sleeves:
P 1 row.
Dividing Row [RS]: *K to marker, remove
marker, slip next 36[36, 36, 36, 36, 40, 44] sts (all sts
to next marker) to waste yarn, remove marker; using backward
loop method, CO 0[2, 4, 8, 12, 14, 14] sts; repeat from
* once more; k to end. 76[86, 96, 108, 118, 130, 140] sts:
15[16, 17, 18, 18, 20, 22] sts for each front, 0[2,
4, 8, 12, 14, 14] sts for each underarm, 46[50, 54, 56,
58, 62, 68] sts for back.
Next Row [WS]: P15[17, 19, 22, 24, 27,
29], place marker (indicates center of underarm), p46[52,
58, 64, 70, 76, 82], place marker, p15[17, 19, 22, 24,
Work in stockinette st until work measures 2
inches from underarm, ending with a WS row.
Waist Decrease Row [RS]: [K to 3 sts before marker, ssk,
k1, slip marker, k1, k2tog] twice, k to end. 72[82, 92,
104, 114, 126, 136] sts.
Work 7 rows in stockinette st.
Repeat these 8 rows once more, then work Waist
Decrease Row once more. 64[74, 84, 96, 106, 118,
Work 5 rows in stockinette st. Waist Increase Row [RS]: [K to 1 st before
marker, M1R, k1, slip marker, k1, M1L] twice, k to end.
68[78, 88, 100, 110, 122, 132] sts.
Repeat these 6 rows twice more. 76[86,
96, 108, 118, 130, 140] sts.
Note: This sample was knit using a cotton-blend yarn
which does not curl excessively in stockinette st. If
you are working with an animal fiber yarn, you may wish
to work the lower 2 inches of the body in garter st to
Continue in stockinette st until work measures 13 inches
from underarm or desired length. BO all sts.
Using double-point needles and beginning at center
of one underarm, pick up and k 0[1, 2, 4, 6, 7, 7] sts along
CO underarm edge, k 36[36, 36, 36, 36,
40, 44] held sleeve sts, pick up and k 0[1, 2, 4, 6, 7, 7]
sts along remaining half of CO underarm edge. 36[38, 40,
44, 48, 54, 58] sts.
K 15[15, 15, 15, 11, 11, 7] rounds.
Sleeve Decrease Round: K1, k2tog, k to
last 3 sts, ssk, k1. 34[36, 38, 42, 46, 52, 56] sts.
Repeat these 16[16, 16, 16, 12, 12, 8]
rounds 1[1, 1, 1, 2, 3, 5] times more. 32[34, 36, 40, 42,
46, 46] sts.
Continue in stockinette st until sleeve measures 14 inches
from underarm or desired length. BO all sts.
Note: As for lower body, if you are working
with an animal fiber yarn, you may wish to work the lower
2 inches of the sleeve in garter st to prevent curling.
Work other sleeve in the same way.
Using circular needle, with RS facing and beginning
at lower right front corner, pick up and k 3 sts for every
4 rows along right front edge, place
marker, pick up and k 1 st in each CO st along neckline
edge, place marker, pick up and k 3 sts for every 4 rows
along left front edge, ending at lower left front corner.
K 1 WS row.
Collar is shaped using short rows, which
raise collar at back of neck. All short rows are turned
between the two markers.
Short Row 1 [RS]: K to 6 sts before second
marker, W&T. Short Row 2 [WS]: K to 6 sts before marker,
W&T. Short Rows 3-4: K to 4 sts before marker,
W&T. Short Rows 5-6: K to 2 sts before marker,
W&T. Short Rows 7-8: K to marker, W&T. Next Row [RS]: K to end, removing markers.
Continue in garter st until collar measures 5.25[6, 6.5,
6.5, 7.25, 7.25, 8] inches. Be sure to
measure collar depth from picked-up sts
along front edge, not in short-rowed
Note: At this point, it is a good
idea to transfer all sts to a generous
length of waste yarn and try on sweater,
to be sure the collar is deep enough
to overlap completely when worn. If necessary,
work more rows before binding off.
Loosely BO all sts.
Weave in ends.
Try on cardigan to determine desired placement of button loops along right
front edge, and mark using locking st markers or safety pins. Front bands
should overlap completely.
Make each button loop as follows: Use sl st to join yarn
to edge, slightly above marker; work a crochet chain long
enough to fit snugly around button; use sl st to join
yarn to edge, slightly below marker; fasten off.
Sew buttons to left front, opposite button loops. Sew
one half of each snap to RS of left front band, near edge.
Sew remaining half of each snap to corresponding positions
on WS of right front band.
ABOUT THE DESIGNER
Carol Feller is an independent knitwear
designer living in Cork, Ireland. Trained
as both an artist and a structural engineer,
she has found a real "home" in
knitting and design -- work which allows
her to combine the best of both those worlds.
As a busy mother of four, finding time
to design is not always easy, but she does