Mythos is the story of an imaginary sweater… one that
we all want to have in our wardrobe but
doesn’t seem to
exist.
Designed for a fingering weight
yarn and knit at a loose gauge, this
sweater is the perfect layer for summer
and fall! Wear
it open and loose for a relaxed look
or hold closed with a special shawl pin.
Thanks to Rosemary Hill for
the beautiful pin shown here.
Mythos is worked flat, back and forth on a circular
needle in two halves, from sleeve cuff to center back, and then
grafted down the back.
You could win the yarn for this sweater!
Details here!
Note: If substituting yarn, you will require approx. 750[850, 975,
1100, 1200, 1350, 1500]yd/686[777, 892, 1006, 1097, 1235, 1372]m
of fingering weight yarn (recommended ball band gauge approx. 32
sts = 4 inches).
Recommended needle size [always use a needle
size that gives you the gauge
listed below -- every knitter's
gauge is unique] 1
40-inch US #8/5mm circular needle
1 set US #8/5mm double-point needles (only two are used, for I-cord edging)
Notions
Waste
yarn or stitch holders
Yarn needle
GAUGE
18 sts/24 rows = 4 inches in stockinette st, AFTER BLOCKING Note: For this project, the yarn is knit
much more loosely than the recommended
ball band gauge, to produce a fluid, drapey
fabric. See Pattern Notes re. gauge.
PATTERN NOTES [Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]
Correct row gauge is essential for this design,
as it determines the width of the body. Because of this, you
will need to count rows as you knit, instead of knitting to measurements.
The pieces will look too small as you
knit them, but will block out to the correct measurements. It
is very important that you work a large gauge swatch and block
it before knitting the sweater. (I actually just started knitting
my right sleeve, and once 30 or so rows were knit I stopped and
blocked the piece. I got gauge, so got to put my sts back on
the needles and kept knitting!)
M1L (left-leaning increase): Insert left needle, from
front to back, under horizontal strand of yarn running
between last stitch on left needle and first stitch on
right needle; knit this stitch through back loop. 1 stitch
increased.
M1R (right-leaning increase): Insert left needle, from
back to front, under horizontal strand of yarn running
between last stitch on left needle and first stitch on
right needle; knit this stitch through front loop. 1 stitch
increased.
Wrap & Turn [W&T] – used
when working short rows Note: The directions that follow are written for
short rows worked in stockinette stitch.
To wrap and turn on a RS row,
knit to point specified in pattern,
bring yarn to front of work between
needles, slip next stitch to right-hand
needle, bring yarn around this stitch
to back of work, slip stitch back to
left-hand needle, turn work to begin
purling back in the other direction.
To wrap and turn on a WS row, purl to point specified
in pattern, bring yarn to back of work between needles,
slip next stitch to right-hand needle, bring yarn around
this stitch to front of work, slip stitch back to left-hand
needle, turn work to begin knitting back in the other direction.
Working Wraps Together with Wrapped Stitches:
When working rows which follow short
rows, work the "wraps" at the turning points
of the short rows, together with the
stitches they wrap, as follows:
When working a RS row: Knit to wrapped stitch.
Slip next stitch from left needle to
right needle, use tip of left needle
to pick up "wrap" and
place it on right needle, insert left
needle into both wrap and stitch, and
knit them together.
When working a WS row: Purl to wrapped stitch.
Slip next stitch from left needle to
right needle, use tip of left needle
to pick up "wrap" and
place it on right needle, slip both
wrap and stitch back to left needle,
purl together through back loops.
Information about blocking can be found here and
here.
Directions for the Knitted Cast
On (“knitting
on”) can be found here.
DIRECTIONS
RIGHT SLEEVE AND BODY
Note: It is very important to count rows as you work. See Pattern Notes
for more information.
Sleeve:
CO 30[32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42] sts.
K 3 rows.
Beginning with a WS row, work 5 rows in stockinette st.
Increase Row [RS]: K2, M1R, k to
last 2 sts, M1L, k2.
Repeat these 6 rows 14[15, 17, 18, 13,
13, 13] times more. 60[64, 70, 74, 66, 68, 70] sts.
Sizes 1X, 2X, 3X Only:
Work 3 rows in stockinette st.
Work Increase
Row.
Repeat these 4 rows -[-, -, -, 5, 6,
8] times more. -[-, -, -, 78, 82, 88] sts.
All Sizes:
Continue in stockinette st until a total
of 114[118, 120, 124, 126, 130, 132]
rows have been worked, ending with
a WS row.
Note: As written, sleeves will measure
19[19.5, 20, 20.5, 21, 21.5, 22] inches
after blocking. If more or less length is desired, work
more or fewer rows at this point; be sure to make a note
of the number of rows worked, so that the left sleeve
can be made to match. A difference of 6 rows will make
a difference of 1 inch to the finished (blocked) length.
Lower Body: Note: As written, length of lower body
is 11[12, 13, 14, 14.5, 15.5, 16.5]
inches, and full length of garment is
17.5[19, 20.5, 21.75, 23, 24.5, 26] inches. If you wish
to alter the lower body length, CO more or fewer sts in
the next step. A difference of 9 sts each for front and
back will make a difference of 2 inches to the finished
(blocked) length. Be sure to CO the same number of sts
for both back and front, and be sure to make a note of
the number of sts cast on, so that the left side can be
made to match. The
knitted cast on is recommended for casting
on sts in this section (see Pattern Notes).
Also, note that if the lower body length
is changed, the number of sts that will remain after shaping
the neckline and lower front edge will be different.
Begin row count again at this point.
CO 50[54, 58, 62, 66, 70, 74] sts at
beginning of next 2 rows. 160[172, 186, 198, 210, 222,
236] sts.
From this point to beginning of front shaping, k
first and last 2 sts of every row. This will form a narrow
(2-st) band of garter st at lower edge of work.
Work 4[4, 4, 4, 4, 6, 6] rows in stockinette st, ending
with a WS row.
Shape Hip:
Lower edge of cardigan is flared using
short rows. See Pattern Notes for information about working
short rows. Throughout this section, when you encounter
a wrapped st, pick up wrap and work it together with
wrapped st. Short row sequence begins with RS facing.
Do not include short rows in row count.
K20[22, 24, 27, 29, 31, 33], W&T. P to last 2 sts,
k2.
Work 1 RS row across all sts.
K2, p18[20, 22, 25, 27, 29, 31], W&T. K to end.
Work 5[5, 5, 5, 5, 7, 7] rows across
all sts, ending with a WS row.
K14[16, 18, 21, 23, 25, 28], W&T. P to last 2 sts,
k2.
Work 1 RS row across all sts.
K2, p12[14, 16, 19, 21, 23, 26], W&T. K to end.
Work 5[5, 5, 5, 5, 7, 7] rows across
all sts, ending with a WS row.
K8[10, 12, 15, 17, 19, 22], W&T. P to last 2 sts,
k2.
Work 1 RS row across all sts.
K2, p6[8, 10, 13, 15, 17, 20], W&T. K to end.
Work 15[15, 17, 17, 17, 17, 17] rows
across all sts, ending with a WS row. Excluding short rows,
34[34, 36, 36, 36, 42, 42] rows have been worked from beginning
of lower body.
Divide for Neckline: Next Row [RS]: K80[86, 93, 99, 105, 111,
118]; do not complete row. Place last 80[86, 93, 99,
105, 111, 118] sts on waste yarn or st holder for back. Next Row [WS]: P2, p2tog tbl, p1, p2tog
tbl, p to last 2 sts, k2. 78[84, 91, 97, 103, 109, 116]
sts.
As you shape front, remember to maintain
2 sts at lower edge of cardigan in garter st. Sts at neckline
edge are worked in stockinette st.
Shape Front: Row 1 [RS]: K to last 7 sts, ssk, k1,
ssk, k2. 2 sts decreased at neckline edge. Row 2 [WS]: P to last 7 sts, p2tog tbl, p1, p2tog
tbl, k2. 2 sts decreased at lower edge. Row 3 (Short Row) [RS]: K to last 8 sts,
W&T. Row 4 (Short Row) [WS]: P to last 2 sts,
k2.
Repeat these 4 rows 12[13, 14, 15, 16,
18, 19] times more, then work Rows 1-2 once more. Each
time you work Row 1, remember to work wrap at end of short
row together with wrapped st. 22[24, 27, 29, 31, 29, 32]
sts.
Place remaining sts on waste yarn or
st holder.
Shape Back:
Place held sts of back on needle with
RS facing and join yarn at neck edge. 80[86, 93, 99,
105, 111, 118] sts on needle.
Row 1 [RS]: K2, k2tog, k1, k2tog, k to end. 78[84, 91,
97, 103, 109, 116] sts. Row 2 [WS]: K2, p to end. Rows 3-4: Work as for Rows
1-2. 76[82,
89, 95, 101, 107, 114] sts. Row 5 [RS]: K2, k2tog, k to end. Row 6 [WS]: Work as for Row
2.
Repeat Rows 5-6 2[2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4] times more. 73[79,
86, 91, 97, 102, 109] sts. Excluding short rows, 44[44,
46, 48, 48, 56, 56] rows have been worked from beginning
of lower body.
Work 12[18, 22, 26, 32, 30, 36] more rows in stockinette
st, maintaining 2 sts at hem edge in garter st as set.
Excluding short rows, 56[62, 68, 74, 80, 86, 92] rows have
been worked from beginning of lower body.
Break yarn, leaving a tail, and place
all sts on waste yarn or st holder.
LEFT SLEEVE AND BODY
Sleeve:
Work as for right sleeve until all increases
have been completed. Continue in stockinette
st until a total of 113[117, 119, 123, 125, 129, 131] rows
have been worked, ending with a RS row.
Lower Body:
Begin row count again at this point.
CO 50[54, 58, 62, 66, 70, 74] sts at
beginning of next 2 rows. 160[172, 186, 198, 210, 222,
236] sts.
From this point to beginning of front
shaping, k first and last 2 sts of every row.
Work 4[4, 4, 4, 4, 6, 6] rows in stockinette st, ending
with a RS row.
Shape Hip:
Lower edge of cardigan is flared using
short rows. See Pattern Notes for information about working
short rows. Throughout this section, when you encounter
a wrapped st, pick up wrap and work it together with
wrapped st. Short row sequence begins with RS facing.
K2, p18[20, 22, 25, 27, 29, 31], W&T. K to end.
Work 1 WS row across all sts.
K20[22, 24, 27, 29, 31, 33], W&T. P to last 2 sts,
k2.
Work 5[5, 5, 5, 5, 7, 7] rows across
all sts, ending with a RS row.
K2, p12[14, 16, 19, 21, 23, 26], W&T. K to end.
Work 1 WS row across all sts.
K14[16, 18, 21, 23, 25, 28], W&T. P to last 2 sts,
k2.
Work 5[5, 5, 5, 5, 7, 7] rows across
all sts, ending with a RS row.
K2, p6[8, 10, 13, 15, 17, 20], W&T. K to end.
Work 1 WS row across all sts.
K8[10, 12, 15, 17, 19, 22], W&T. P to last 2 sts, k2.
Work 15[15, 17, 17, 17, 17, 17] rows
across all sts, ending with a RS row. Excluding short rows,
34[34, 36, 36, 36, 42, 42] rows have been worked from beginning
of lower body.
Divide for Neckline: Next Row [WS]: K2, p78[84, 91, 97, 103,
109, 116]; do not complete row. Place last 80[86, 93,
99, 105, 111, 118] sts on waste yarn or st holder for
back. Next Row [RS]: K2, k2tog, k1, k2tog,
k to end. 78[84, 91, 97, 103, 109, 116]
sts.
As you shape front, remember to maintain
2 sts at lower edge of cardigan in garter st. Sts at neckline
edge are worked in stockinette st.
Shape Front: Row 1 [WS]: K2, p2tog, p1, p2tog, p to
end. 2 sts decreased at lower edge. Row 2 [RS]: K2, k2tog, k1, k2tog, k to
end. 2 sts decreased at neckline edge. Row 3 (Short Row) [WS]: K2, p to last
8 sts, W&T. Row 4 (Short Row) [RS]: K to end.
Repeat these 4 rows 12[13, 14, 15, 16,
18, 19] times more, then work Rows
1-2 once more. Each
time you work Row 1, remember to work wrap at end of short
row pair together with wrapped st. 22[24, 27, 29, 31, 29,
32] sts.
Place remaining sts on waste yarn or
st holder.
Shape Back:
Place held sts of back on needle with
WS facing and join yarn at neck edge. 80[86, 93, 99,
105, 111, 118] sts on needle.
Row 1 [WS]: P2, p2tog tbl, p1, p2tog tbl, p to last 2
sts, k2. 78[84, 91, 97, 103, 109, 116] sts. Row 2 [RS]: K all sts. Rows 3-4: Work as for Rows
1-2. 76[82,
89, 95, 101, 107, 114] sts. Row 5 [WS]: P2, p2tog tbl, p to last
2 sts, k2. Row 6 [RS]: K all sts.
Repeat Rows 5-6 2[2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4] times more. 73[79,
86, 91, 97, 102, 109] sts. Excluding short rows, 44[44,
46, 48, 48, 56, 56] rows have been worked from beginning
of lower body.
Work 12[18, 22, 26, 32, 30, 36] more rows in stockinette
st, maintaining 2 sts at hem edge in garter st as set.
Excluding short rows, 56[62, 68, 74, 80, 86, 92] rows have
been worked from beginning of lower body.
Break yarn, leaving a tail, and place
all sts on waste yarn or st holder.
FINISHING
Block halves of sweater to measurements shown in schematic.
Sew side seams and sleeve seams.
Graft held sts of right and left back together, taking care to keep tension
even. If desired, block again after grafting.
Turn garter st lower edging to WS of work and neatly
whip stitch in place.
Applied I-Cord Edging:
CO 3 sts onto double-point needle. Place
held sts of right front edge on circular needle.
Using another double-point needle, work as follows:
K first 2 sts from double-point needle,
sl third st to right needle; k1 from circular needle,
pass slipped st over st just knit. Slide 3 sts just
worked to other end of a double-pointed needle and bring
yarn around back of work, ready to begin working the
next row.
Repeat this row until all sts from circular
needle have been worked, then continue working edging
along neckline edge as follows:
K first 2 sts from double-point needle, sl third st to
right needle; use tip of left needle to pick up 1 st from
neckline edge, k this st, pass slipped st over st just
knit. Slide 3 sts just worked to other end of a double-pointed
needle and bring yarn around back of work, ready to begin
working the next row.
Repeat this row, picking up 1 st for each
row, until you have reached held sts of left front edge.
Place these sts on circular needle and work them as for
sts of right front edge.
BO sts of I-cord. Weave in remaining ends.
ABOUT THE DESIGNER
Laura love love LOVES to knit and splits her work hours between Nelkin
Designs and her paying gig as the design director at Schaefer
Yarn Company. The rest of her time is spent plotting to take
LONG vacations with her family so she can play and knit some more!
Visit Laura at her at her blog or
follow her on Twitter.