This tee is inspired by the story of Icarus, the young Athenian who was given a pair of wings carefully crafted by his father Daedalus in order to escape the island of Crete. Daedalus instructed Icarus to keep to his flight path, and not to fly too close to the sun or the sea. Icarus fastened the wings to his shoulders, and jumping from a high cliff, took flight from the island. Overcome with the freedom of flight, Icarus soared higher and higher. As Icarus ascended, the sun began to melt the wax that held the wings together. The wings began to break apart, and Icarus fell from the sky and into the sea which now bears his name.
The lace pattern on this tee symbolizes both the careful construction of Daedalus's wings, and the joy that Icarus felt when he spread his wings and reached for freedom.
Structured lace spreads across and up the back of this garment, creating a shape that emulates wings and flight.
Recommended needle size [always use a needle
size that gives you the gauge
listed below -- every knitter's
gauge is unique] 1 24-inch US #5/3.75mm circular needle 1 set US #4/3.50mm double-point needles
Notions Stitch markers (I suggest that at least 2 of these markers are in a different color than the rest in order to distinguish the "center cable repeat" in the lace section) Spare circular needle/scrap yarn. Yarn
needle
GAUGE
20 sts/20 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
25 sts/20 rows = 4 inches in lace pattern
PATTERN NOTES [Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]
This garment is worked in the round from the bottom up.
You don't have to shape the waist if you don't want to! It will not affect the lace pattern. If you prefer a boxier shape, do not decrease at the waist, and of course, ignore the increases for the bust as well.
There are two versions of the text lace pattern: one for working in the round and one for working flat (for when the piece is split for the Front and Back).
When working Chart, the first 19 rnds are worked as shown in the chart. On all subsequent rnds, repeat the "right-hand repeat" until you reach the 10 st "center cable repeat" section, work the "center cable repeat," and then repeat the "left-hand repeat section" until the end of the lace section. Please note: this is also explained within the pattern, but I'll say it here first. You will be adding 5 sts to the beginning and end of the lace section for each 6 row repeat you knit. This does not mean that you will be making stitches, you will simply be adding new stitch markers, marking more stitches as part of the lace section.
M1L (left-leaning increase): Insert left needle, from front to back, under horizontal strand of yarn running between last stitch on left needle and first stitch on right needle; knit this stitch through back loop. 1 stitch increased. M1R (right-leaning increase): Insert left needle, from back to front, under horizontal strand of yarn running between last stitch on left needle and first stitch on right needle; knit this stitch through front loop. 1 stitch increased. Short row wraps are picked up and knit together with the stitch they wrap. See a tutorial on short rows here.
LT (Left cable using 2 sts): On RS, and while working in the rnd: sl 1 st and hold to the front, k1tbl, k the held st tbl On WS: sl 1 st and hold to the front, p1tbl, p the held st tbl
Rnd 14 & 16: Knit. Rnd 15: *K1, sl1, k1, psso, yo* ; rep from * to* until the center cable rep section, (k, sl1, k1, psso, k, yo, LT, yo, k, sl1, k1, psso, k), *yo, sl1, k1, psso, k1* ; rep from * to * until the end of the lace section. Rnd 17: *Sl1, k1, psso, yo, k1* ; rep from * to * until the center cable rep section, (sl1, k1, psso, yo, k2, yo, sl1, k1, psso), *k1, yo, sl1, k1, psso*; rep from * to * until the end of the lace section. Rnd 18: K to center cable rep section, (k4, LT, k4), k to the end of the lace section. Rnd 19: *K1, sl1, k1, psso, yo* ; rep from * to* until the center cable rep section, (k, sl1, k1, psso, k, yo, k2, yo, k, sl1, k1, psso, k), *yo, sl1, k1, psso, k1* ; rep from * to * until the end of the lace section.
Repeat Rnds 14-19.
Icarus Chart worked flat: Rows 14 & 16 (WS): Purl. Row 15 (RS): *K1, sl1, k1, psso, yo* ; rep from * to* until the center cable rep section, (k, sl1, k1, psso, k, yo, LT, yo, k, sl1, k1, psso, k), *yo, sl1, k1, psso, k1* ; rep from * to * until the end of the lace section. Row 17 (RS): *Sl1, k1, psso, yo, k1* ; rep from * to * until the center cable rep section, (sl1, k1, psso, yo, k2, yo, sl1, k1, psso), *k1, yo, sl1, k1, psso*; rep from * to * until the end of the lace section. Row 18 (WS): P to center cable rep section, (p4, LT, p4), p to the end of the lace section. Row 19 (RS): *K1, sl1, k1, psso, yo* ; rep from * to* until the center cable rep section, (k, sl1, k1, psso, k, yo, k2, yo, k, sl1, k1, psso, k), *yo, sl1, k1, psso, k1* ; rep from * to * until the end of the lace section.
Repeat Rows 14-19.
DIRECTIONS
BODY
Using the long-tail method and larger needle, cast on 170[180, 190, 210, 230, 260, 270] sts. PM, and being careful not to twist, join for working in the round.
Marker Placement Rnd: K85[90, 95, 105, 115, 130, 135] sts, place side marker, k to end of rnd.
Work in St St until garment measures 6 inches (or desired length before shaping for the waist.
Waist Dec Rnd: *K1, k2tog, k to 3 sts before side marker, ssk, k1, sm; rep from * once more. 4 sts decreased.
Work 1 rnd even.
Rep the last 2 rnds 12[10, 10, 10, 10, 12, 12] times. 118 [136, 146, 166, 186, 208, 218] sts
Sizes L, 1X, and 3X ONLY: Waist Dec Rnd 2: K to 3 sts before side marker, ssk, k1, sm, k1, k2tog, k to 3 before marker, ssk, k1. 3 sts decreased: 1 in the front and 2 in the back. 163[183, 215] sts
Work 1 rnd even. 118[136, 146, 163, 183, 208, 215] sts: 59[68,73,81,91,104,107] FRONT stitches, and 59[68,73,82,92,104,108] BACK stitches.
Cont working in St St until 4 inches have been worked from first Waist Dec Rnd. (10 inches total)
Lace Marking Rnd: K to side marker (Front sts), sm, k20[24, 26,31, 36, 42, 44] sts, pmA (Begin Chart marker), k5, pm, k10, pm (these 2 markers are the Central Chart Markers), k5, pmB (End Chart marker), k 19[24, 27, 31, 36, 42, 44] to end of rnd.
Note: Sizes XS & M will have the lace pattern shifted ONE stitch off-center. This will not be noticeable in your finished product.
READ AHEAD: Bust shaping and lace shaping instructions happen at the same time.
Next rnd: K to mA, work Icarus Chart up to mB, k to end of rnd.
Work in this manner until 19 chart rnds have been worked in full between markers.
Next rnd: Begin working Chart Rnds 14-19 ONLY and, on this and every subsequent 6th rnd/row, move mA 5 sts to the right (incorporating 5 more sts into the right-hand repeat) and move mB 5 sts to the left (incorporating 5 more sts into the left-hand repeat), while maintaining Central Chart Markers in place, and working the Central repeat between them. Work in this way throughout the entire back.
AT THE SAME TIME, when garment measures approx 13 inches from cast-on edge, shape bust:
Bust Inc Rnd: *K1, M1L, work in patt to 1 st before the side marker, M1R, k1, sm; rep from * to end. 4 sts inc'd.
Work 1 rnd even.
Rep the last 2 rnds 5[7, 9, 9, 9, 9, 12] more times. 142[168, 186, 203, 223, 248, 267] sts.
Cont working in patt as established until garment measures approx 17 inches from cast-on edge, or desired length to underarm.
Divide the front and back:
*K3[4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9] sts. Place the last 6[8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18] sts you knit on a piece of scrap yarn, and work across back in patt as est up to side marker. Slip side marker and rep from * to end.
Total 65[76,83,89,97,108,115] FRONT stitches, and 65[76,83,90,98,108,116] BACK stitches.
UPPER BACK
Turn work.
Work 1 WS row in patt, keeping lace patt correct.
Dec Row [RS]: K2, k2tog, work in pattern to 4 sts before the end of the row, ssk, k2. 2 sts decreased.
Rep the last 2 rows 1[3, 1, 0, 0, 1, 1] more times. 61[68, 79, 88, 96, 104, 112] sts.
Keeping patt correct, work back and forth until armhole measures 7.5[7.5, 7.75, 8, 8.5, 8.5, 8.75] inches from the dividing row, ending with a WS row.
BO Row [RS]: Work across 7[10, 16, 19, 20, 22, 24] sts, BO 47 [48, 47, 50, 56, 60, 64] sts for the neck back, work the remaining 7[10, 16, 19, 20, 22, 24 sts].
Place both sets of live sts on holders or scrap yarn.
UPPER FRONT
Rejoin yarn with RS facing.
Dec Row [RS]: K2, k2tog, k to 4 sts before the end of the row, ssk, k2. 2 sts decreased.
Rep the last 2 rows 1[3, 1, 0, 0, 1, 1] more times. 61[68, 79, 87, 95, 104, 111] sts.
Work back and forth in St st until the armholes measure 4.75[4.75, 5, 5.25, 5.5, 6, 6.25] inches from the dividing row, ending with a WS row.
Separation Row [RS]: Work across 25[30, 35, 38, 40, 42, 46] sts, slip on to spare yarn or stitch holder, BO the next 11[8, 9, 11, 15, 20, 19] sts, work across the remaining 25[30, 35, 38, 40, 42, 46] sts.
Work 1 WS row.
RIGHT SHOULDER
BO 1 st at the beg of foll 5 RS rows, then BO 3 sts at the beg of next 2 RS rows.
Work even until the armhole measures 7.5[7.5, 7.75, 8, 8.25, 8.50, 8.75] inches.
Join Left Front Shoulder to Left Back Shoulder, RS together, and use the 3-needle BO.
Join Right Front Shoulder and Right Back Shoulder in the same way.
CAP SLEEVES
With smaller needles, RS facing, place the 6[8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18] underarm held sts on the needles, then evenly pick up and knit 70[68, 70, 70, 74, 72, 72] around the armhole edge.
PM for beg of rnd. 76[76, 80, 82, 88, 88, 90] sts.
Rnd 1: K6[8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18] underarm sts, [yo, k2tog] to end of the rnd.
Rnd 2: Knit.
Rep the last 2 rnds once more.
Shape the cap: Row 1: K6[8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18], [yo, k2tog] to 2 sts before the end of the rnd, W&T. Row 2: Purl to 2 sts before the underarm sts, W&T. Row 3: [YO, k2tog] to 2 sts before the wrapped st, W&T. Row 4: Purl to 2 sts before the wrapped st, W&T.
Repeat Rows 3-4 until 20 sts remain between the wraps -- the last wrap should occur during a WS row.
Next Row [RS]: [YO, k2tog] to first wrapped st, knit each wrapped st together with its wrap to end of rnd marker. Next Rnd: K to end, working each wrapped st together with its wrap to end of rnd.
Knit 4 rnds even.
BO all sleeve sts using an elastic method, such as Jeny's Surprisingly Stretchy Bind Off.
FINISHING
Weave in ends.
To block this garment, you will want to make sure that no rolling occurs at the CO edge in the St st areas. Also, don't be afraid to be assertive with the lace back opening when blocking to achieve the finished measurements and to prevent any puckering.
ABOUT THE DESIGNER
Leah Goldstein is a research analyst and independent designer who lives in Brooklyn, NY.
