This project came about last June when Amy Singer passed by
the booth at TNNA [the yarn industry
trade show] and admired the model sweaters
that I had designed to show off my bulky
merino yarn “Granite”.
Stitches such as cables and lace really
take on drama and become expressive in
this yarn. It has a very sculptural quality—it’s
a rustic singles, but with a channel
of nylon stitches sewn down the center
of the strand that forms a core. Being
that the yarn is also very suitable for
outerwear, Amy had the brilliant idea
of asking me if I’d
be interested in contributing a piece
to Knitty for this issue that she was
beginning to plan at the time.
In all these years Amy and I had greeted each other and shot
the breeze at TNNA and other events, but I’d never submitted
to Knitty. I usually have more design work than I can handle
and I was just finishing an intense book of lace patterns at
the time of the show. I had also just joined in Facebook and
Ravelry and was enjoying how the connections made online had
revved up my experience of the trade show. I particularly felt
proud of the strength of the indie designers at the event and
felt invigorated by the display of creativity and professionalism
among their ranks. So much wonderful stuff has come from the
internet knitting site pioneers. And so it seemed that it really
was about time to do something for Knitty.
Besides,
my knitterly muses are temptress sirens that sing to me and
if you tied me to a mast to protect me from embarking on new
projects, I would try to knit something with the rope. So since
Amy asked I was powerless to refuse. Amy asked for a cardigan
or jacket, something with texture and perhaps a shawl collar.
I’m sure she meant your typical, traditional shawl collar,
but the muses drove me and what I came up with is a literal
shawl (or capelet) as a detachable collar. This is what happens
when an editor says she trusts you, much rowing about until
some excitement is whipped up. I saw my Knitty debut as an
opportunity for something a little dramatic that could express
what I’ve been most intrigued by over the past few years:
Lace.
I wanted to work out an original stitch pattern that
resembled the kunststicke doilies that have
been my obsession. So I created a chart repeat that might work
for the overall fabric of the garment with 3[4 or 5] repeats
around and some creative sizing solutions. The chart incorporated
a curved decrease that was intended to draw in from the hip
to flatter the waist for a cropped, fitted jacket which is
a favorite silhouette of mine. I knit a swatch of one repeat
that could also serve as a sleeve and pinned it up all over
the dress form. I loved the look of the lace arches at the
chunky gauge, but, besides the difficulty involved in charting
the various sizes, the scale of the lace was not as flattering
when draped over the hips to bust as I had hoped; large lace
arrows seemed to point to the bust and these strong lines would
hit very differently for each size and not always be aligned
with the “princess
seam”. I decided that as a longer, less fitted “duster” jacket
with the pattern featured only on the hem and the rest plain
would be a solution. So I cast on four repeats with a garter
band at each edge. Then I pinned this up around the dress form
from hip to top thigh. It had potential. But how I really liked
the piece was slung around the shoulders. I wanted to bind
off and wear it as a shawl. I was at an impasse. I wanted to
see how the duster would look, but it would require more yarn
and more knitting. It would be a nice sweater coat that would
appeal to advanced knitters but it didn’t seem that special
to me—the lace was dramatic, yes, and I was going to
carry a small lace motif as a stripe up to the shoulders--but
would it just be another nice sweater coat? I try to make each
piece I do something that calls to be knit. I kept draping
the large swatch over the thighs and then over the shoulders.
Well, didn’t Amy want a shawl collar?
I decided to scrap the duster version—or, actually,
to hold onto the 4-rep piece to use as a “shawl” collar.
I went back to the cropped jacket silhouette but created a
subtler hip lace dart motif. And I used the dramatic lace chart
for the sleeves. I think the jacket looks great and special
on its own and so does the shawl. Together they are knock out.
The muses are appeased for a brief moment.
I named it the Lady Lovelace after Ada
Lovelace to honor the internet pioneers such
as Knitty (and with the built-in pun of course
it celebrates my own love of lace). Lady Ada Lovelace, Byron’s
daughter, a mathematician and an early computer scientist,
is a historical person who has long fascinated me.
My lovely model is none other than Liana Allday, an editor
at STC Craft whom I had the pleasure of working
with on my most recent book, Loop-d-Loop
Lace. When I first met Liana, we joked that her hairstyle (kind
of a Swiss Miss girl, braided up-do) resembled those of the
models in my first book. When the photoshoot for this project
came up I emailed Liana to see if she I could put her
hair to work. I also called on a photographer
I worked with on as a stylist for another STC Craft book, Marianne
Rafter.
Note: The fabric of this jacket is very stretchy. Choose a
size 0-2 inches smaller than your bust measurement.
MATERIALS
Yarn GRANITE,
Loop-d-Loop by Teva Durham [95% fine
merino wool, 5% nylon; 55yd/50m per 50g ball]; color: #01 Quartz;
11[12, 13, 14, 16, 17, 18] balls Note: To make only the shawl, 4[4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5] balls are required.
Recommended needle size [always use a needle
size that gives you the gauge
listed below -- every knitter's
gauge is unique] 1
US #11/8mm circular needle, 29 inches or longer (longer needle
recommended for larger sizes) 1 US#6/4mm
circular needle, 24 inches or longer
Notions Stitch
markers Stitch holders or waste yarn Safety pins or split ring markers 6 metal snaps, 0.625 inch diameter Yarn needle Sewing needle and thread to match yarn Metal buckle – buckle shown is 1.25 inches long and 1.875 inches
wide Note: If preferred, collar may be closed using a shawl pin or stick instead.
GAUGE
10 sts/14 rows = 4" in
stockinette st using larger needle
16sts/20 rows = 4" in 1x1 Rib using smaller needle
PATTERN NOTES [Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]
Jacket is worked in one piece to armholes.
Shawl collar is a seperate piece, and can
be knit on its own as an accessory.
m1p (Make 1 purl stitch): Insert left needle, from back to front,
under strand of yarn which runs between last stitch on left needle
and first stitch on right needle; purl this stitch. 1 st increased
(stitch will be twisted).
S2KP: Slip next 2 sts together, knitwise, as if to work a k2tog.
Knit next st, then pass both slipped sts together over st just
knit. This forms a centered double decrease.
Instructions for the Long-Tail Cast On can
be found here.
Charts The charts for this pattern are very
large. Each fits on a letter-sized page.
Click below and print each resulting
page.
From this point on, sweater body is worked
in stockinette st, with 2 sts at each front edge purled on both
RS and WS rows.
Continue in pattern until work measures 6[6, 6, 6, 5.5, 5.5,
5] inches, ending with a WS row.
Shape Bust: Increase Row [RS]: P2, [k to marker,
m1, slip marker, k1, m1] twice, k to last 2 sts, p2.
Work 5[5, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3] rows in pattern.
Repeat these 6[6, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4] rows
1[1, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4] times more, then
work Increase Row once more. 72[80, 92, 100, 112, 120, 132] sts.
Continue in pattern until work measures 12[12, 12, 12, 12.5,
12.5, 12.5] inches or desired length to underarm, ending with
a WS row.
Next Row [RS]: P2, k16[17, 20, 22, 25, 26, 29], BO 2[4, 4, 4,
4, 6, 6] sts, k31[33, 39, 43, 49, 51, 57] (32[34, 40, 44, 50,
52, 58] sts on right needle after bound off sts), BO 2[4, 4,
4, 4, 6, 6] sts, k to last 2 sts, p2. Left front will be worked
over last 18[19, 22, 24, 27, 28, 31] sts; place all other
sts on st holders or waste yarn.
LEFT FRONT
P 1 row. Next Row [RS]: K1, k2tog, k to last 2
sts, p2.
Repeat these 2 rows 2[2, 3, 3, 4, 4,
5] times more. 15[16, 18, 20, 22, 23, 25] sts.
Continue in pattern until work measures 5.5[6, 6.5, 7, 7.5,
8, 8.5] inches from beginning of armhole shaping, ending with
a WS row.
Shape Neckline:
Neckline is shaped using short rows.
All short rows for left front begin with RS facing. When working
Short Rows 2 and 3, pick up wrap from previous short row and
work together with wrapped st (see Pattern Notes). Short Row 1: K5[6, 7, 9, 10, 11, 12],
W&T. P to end. Short Row 2: K9[10, 11, 13, 14, 15, 16],
W&T. P to end. Short Row 3: K13[14, 15, 17, 18, 19,
20], W&T. P to end.
Loosely BO all sts, working remaining
wrap together with wrapped st. Place safety pin or split ring
marker in 5th[6th, 7th, 9th, 10th, 11th, 12th] bound off st from
armhole edge.
BACK
Place 32[34, 40, 44, 50, 52, 58] held sts of back on needle
and join yarn with WS facing.
P 1 row.
Next Row [RS]: K1, k2tog, k to last 3
sts, ssk, k1.
Repeat these 2 rows 2[2, 3, 3, 4, 4,
5] times more. 26[28, 32, 36, 40, 42, 46] sts.
Work in stockinette st until work measures 7.5[8, 8.5, 9, 9.5,
10, 10.5] inches from beginning of armhole shaping.
Loosely BO all sts. Place safety pin
or split ring marker in 5th[6th, 7th, 9th, 10th, 11th, 12th]
bound off st from each armhole edge.
RIGHT FRONT Place 18[19, 22, 24, 27, 28, 31] held sts of right front on
needle and join yarn with WS facing.
P 1 row.
Next Row [RS]: P2, k to last 3 sts, ssk,
k1.
Repeat these 2 rows 2[2, 3, 3, 4, 4,
5] times more. 15[16, 18, 20, 22, 23, 25] sts.
Continue in pattern until work measures 5.5[6, 6.5, 7, 7.5,
8, 8.5] inches from beginning of armhole shaping, ending with
a RS row.
Shape Neckline:
All short rows for right front begin
with RS facing. When working Short Rows 2 and 3, pick up wrap
from previous short row and work together with wrapped st. Short Row 1: P5[6, 7, 9, 10, 11, 12],
W&T. K to end. Short Row 2: P9[10, 11, 13, 14, 15, 16],
W&T. K to end. Short Row 3: P13[14, 15, 17, 18, 19,
20], W&T. K to end.
Loosely BO all sts, working remaining
wrap together with wrapped st. Place safety pin or split ring
marker in 5th[6th, 7th, 9th, 10th, 11th, 12th] bound off st from
armhole edge.
SLEEVE (Make 2)
Using larger needle, CO 31[31, 33, 33, 35, 35,
37] sts.
P 1 row.
Row 1 [RS]: K0[0, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3], work Row 1 of Lower Sleeve
Chart, k0[0, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3].
Continue in pattern, working Lower Sleeve
Chart over center sts and 0[0, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3] sts at each edge
in stockinette st, until you have completed all rows of chart.
25[25, 27, 27, 29, 29, 31] sts.
Next Row [WS]: P10[10, 11, 11, 12, 12, 13], place marker, p5,
place marker, p to end.
Beginning on next row, work Upper Sleeve
Chart over sts between markers until sleeve is complete.
Shape Sleeve:
Sizes XS, S, M, L, 1X Only: Increase Row [RS]: K1, m1, work in pattern
to last st, m1, k1.
Work 0[5, 3, 3, 3, 3, -, -] rows in pattern.
Repeat these 0[6, 4, 4, 4, -, -] rows
0[1, 2, 3, 4, -, -] times more. 27[29, 33, 35, 39, -, -] sts.
Sizes 2X, 3X Only: Increase Row 1 [RS]: K1, m1, work in
pattern to last st, m1, k1.
Work 2 rows in pattern.
Increase Row 2 [WS]: P1, m1p, p to last
st, m1p, p1.
Work 2 rows in pattern.
Repeat these 6 rows twice more. -[-,
-, -, -, 41, 43] sts.
All Sizes:
Continue in pattern until work measures
17 inches or desired length to underarm, ending with a WS row.
Shape Sleeve Cap:
BO 2[3, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4] sts at beginning
next 2 rows. 23[23, 27, 29, 33, 33, 35] sts.
Decrease Row [RS]: K1, k2tog, work in pattern to last 3 sts,
ssk, k1.
P 1 row.
Repeat these 2 rows 2[2, 3, 3, 4, 4,
5] times more. 17[17, 19, 21, 23, 23, 23] sts.
Work 4[6, 4, 4, 4, 6, 4] rows in pattern.
Work Decrease Row. P 1 row.
Repeat these 2 rows 2[2, 3, 4, 5, 5,
5] times more, then work Decrease Row once more.
BO remaining 9 sts.
SHAWL
Using larger needle, CO 128[128, 128, 128, 159, 159, 159]
sts.
P 1 row.
Row 1 [RS]: P2, work Row 1 of Lower Sleeve Chart 4[4, 4, 4,
5, 5, 5] times, p2.
Continue in pattern, purling first and
last 2 sts of each row and working all other sts following Lower
Sleeve Chart, until you have completed Row 10 of chart. 96[96,
96, 96, 119, 119, 119] sts.
Next Row [RS]: P2, work Row 1 of Shawl Chart, working outlined
pattern repeat 3[3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4] times; p2.
Continue in pattern, purling first and
last 2 sts of each row and working all other sts following Shawl
Chart, until you have completed Row 21 of chart. 101[101, 101,
101, 125, 125, 125] sts.
P 1 row.
Next Row [RS]: BO 16 sts, transfer st on right needle to smaller
needle; using smaller needle, [p1, k1]
to last 2 sts, p2.
Next Row [WS]: P3, [k1, p1] to end.
Work 4 more rows in 1x1 Rib as set, purling
last 2 sts of RS rows and first 2 sts
of WS rows.
BO all sts in pattern.
Strap: Note: If closing shawl using shawl pin
or stick instead of buckle, do not work strap.
Using larger needle and with RS facing, pick up and k 3 sts
along right front edge of shawl, beginning 3 rows below bound
off edge and ending at upper right front corner (see photos for
strap placement).
Work in garter st until strap measures
4 inches. BO all sts.
FINISHING
Lightly steam block all pieces.
Sew back to fronts at shoulders; marked st on each shoulder edge indicates
end of seam. Sew sleeve seams. Sew sleeves into armholes.
Sew snaps to front bands, placing bottom snap 1.5 inches up
from lower edge and top snap 5 inches down
from neck edge, spacing remaining snaps
evenly between. Sew female piece
of each snap to RS of left front band,
and male piece
to WS of right front band.
Use yarn and yarn needle to sew buckle to RS of shawl, close
to left front edge, just below ribbed band - try on shawl and
use photos as guides to determine best location for buckle.
ABOUT THE DESIGNER
Teva Durham is the author of Loop-d-Loop (STC Craft 2005), Loop-d-Loop
Crochet (STC Craft 2007) and the soon to be released Loop-d-Loop
Lace (STC Craft, May 2011). Teva has developed a line of yarns
and patterns distributed through Tahki Stacy Charles.
A long-time
Manhattan resident, in 2008 Teva moved just a skip across the Hudson
to Jersey City where she’s increasingly involved in grassroots
community-building.
