INTRODUCTION

Shadowed

by Woolly Wormhead

Shadow patterns in mosaic colorwork knitting, as described by Barbara G. Walker, are “designs that consist of a black motif upside down, interlocking with and alternating with the same motif in white, right side up”. I don't know about you, but that's a description that's hard to resist and I really wanted to see how such a pattern would play with short rows.

Because yes, short rows are essential when it comes to knitting Hats sideways and I've a thing for designing hats sideways. Although 'Shadowed' hasn't resulted in an all-over continuous mosaic pattern because it can't, the way the shadow pattern plays within the panel is fascinating, especially as it converges at the crown (the best bit!) and depending on your choice of yarn and colors, either part of the design could take the stage. Everyone will see something different in it and to me that's rather special.

In the interests of what else mosaic plays well with short rows? My most recent collection, Convergence, is an exploration into the interplay of these methods and if you like 'Shadowed' you might enjoy those patterns, too.

model: Anju Garattoni

photos: Thomas Paterson

SIZE

S[M, L, XL]

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Circumference at band: 14[16, 18, 20] in/ 35.5[40.5, 45.5, 50.5] cm
Choose a size with approximately 1-4 inches/2.5-10cm negative ease, depending on how you want to style it. The model is wearing it loose and slouchy, choosing a size with more negative ease creates a fit closer to that of a beanie.

shown in size 20 in/50.5cm on model with 21 in/53.5cm circumference head

MATERIALS

Yarn
Dragonfly Fibers Traveller DK [100% Superwash Merino; 280yd/256m per 4oz/114g skein];
[MC] Peach Melba; 1[1, 1, 1] skeins
[CC] District 12; 1[1, 1, 1] skeins

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below - every knitter's gauge is unique]
US #3/3.25mm needles for working flat, minimum length 10 inch/25cm

Notions
US #E-4/3.5mm crochet hook
Approx. 2yd/2m waste yarn
stitch marker as necessary
yarn needle

GAUGE

24 sts/48 rows to 4in/10cm in Garter St
26 sts/56 rows to 4in/10cm in Mosaic pattern
Please see Pattern Notes – row gauge is crucial for this pattern.

PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

Row gauge determines how well the Hat fits. The garter stitch is designed to work as ribbing for the brim, and should be measured relaxed.

The pattern consists of a series of panels, knitted sideways consecutively. The width of each panel is 2in/5cm when row gauge is met. You can adjust the number of panels to your liking to achieve a desired size, or you can adjust your gauge.

Adjusting the depth and slouch of the Hat is managed by adding or removing repeats of the pattern.

You're using a method similar to intarsia to handle the two colors: the brim is only worked with the MC, the body of the hat is worked in 2-row stripes, alternating MC and CC. You will occasionally need to carry either yarn across the back of the work – technically upwards, between rows, and to help keep an even tension and avoid snags the dormant yarn can be held behind the active yarn. To change colors simply swap the yarns over on the WS of the work, ensuring that the yarns cross to avoid holes where the colors change.

Slipping Stitches:
On RS rows, slip purlwise with yarn held to the back (WS) of the work; on WS rows, slip purlwise with yarn held to the front (WS) of the work.

Techniques:

• Provisional Cast on
• Kitchener Stitch: Woolly's tutorial shows the details of in garter stitch. To create a clean graft in Garter Stitch, you need to bring an odd number of rows together, hence the final row on the final panel isn't knitted, and will be replaced by the graft. When grafting across short rows, you will treat the short rows in exactly the same way as you have throughout the pattern.
• German Short Rows: This pattern is written for German Short Rows, as they look best in Garter stitch, and are easier to handle for grafting. The abbreviation SR. means to work the short row, turn process. At the position indicated, turn the work, and at the start of the following row, slip the next stitch purlwise with yarn in front; tug the yarn upwards, pulling the stitch up so that both legs are on the needle; take the working yarn into position for the next stitch.

CHARTS

DIRECTIONS

Panel

Using waste yarn and Provisional Cast-on method, cast on 58 sts. Join MC and work panel from chart above or written instructions following, working the 36 rows 6[7, 8, 9] times in total, and work Rows 1-35 of one more repeat.

Row 1 [WS]: With MC, knit to end.
Row 2 [RS]: With MC, k9; with CC, k48, SR.
Row 3: With CC, k48; with MC, k1, SR.
Row 4: With MC, k1, sl 1, k3, [sl 1, k7] 5 times, sl 3, SR.
Row 5: With MC, sl 3, [k7, sl 1] 5 times, k3, sl 1, k9.
Row 6: With MC, k9; with CC, [k1, sl 1] twice, [k1, sl 1, k3, sl 1, k1, sl 1] 5 times, k2, SR.
Row 7: With CC, k2, [sl 1, k1, sl 1, k3, sl 1, k1] 5 times, [sl 1, k1] twice; with MC, k9.
Row 8: With MC, k9, sl 1, k3, [(sl 1, k1) twice, sl 1, k3] 5 times, sl 1, SR.
Row 9: With MC, sl 1, [k3, (sl 1, k1) twice, sl 1] 5 times, k3, sl 1, k1 SR.
Row 10: With MC, k1; with CC, k5, [sl 1, k7] 4 times, sl 1, k6, SR.
Row 11: With CC, k6, [sl 1, k7] 4 times, sl 1, k5; with MC, k9.
Row 12: With MC, k9, [sl 1, k7] 5 times, sl 3, SR.
Row 13: With MC, sl 3, [k7, sl 1] 5 times, sl 1, k9.
Row 14: With MC, k9; with CC, [k1, sl 1, k3, sl 1, k1, sl1] 5 times, k2, SR.
Row 15: With CC, k2, [sl 1, k1, sl 1, k3, sl 1, k1] 5 times; with MC, k1, SR.
Row 16: With MC, k1, [(sl 1, k1) twice, sl1, k3] 5 times, sl 1, SR.
Row 17: With MC, sl 1, [k3, sl 1, (k1, sl 1) twice] 5 times, k9.
Row 18: With MC, k9; with CC, k1, [sl 1, k7] 4 times, sl 1, k6, SR.
Row 19: With CC, k6, [sl 1, k7] 4 times, sl 1, k1; with MC, k9.
Row 20: With MC, k9, sl 1, k3, [sl 1, k7] 4 times, sl 3, SR.
Row 21: With MC, sl 3, [k7, sl 1] 4 times, k3, sl 1, k1, SR.
Row 22: With MC, k1; with CC, [(k1, sl 1) three times, k2] 4 times, (k1, sl 1) twice, k2, SR.
Row 23: With CC, k2, sl 1, k1, sl 1, [k2, (k1, sl 1) three times] 4 times, k1; with MC, k9.
Row 24: With MC, k9, sl 1, k3, [(sl 1, k1) twice, sl 1, k3] 4 times, sl 1, SR.
Row 25: With MC, sl 1, [k3, (sl 1, k1) twice, sl 1] 4 times, k3, sl 1, k9.
Row 26: With MC, k9; with CC, k5, [sl 1, k7] 3 times, sl 1, k6, SR.
Row 27: With CC, k6, sl 1, [k7, sl 1] 3 times, k5; with MC, k1, SR.
Row 28: With MC, k1, [sl 1, k7] 4 times, sl 3, SR.
Row 29: With MC, sl 3, [k7, sl 1] 4 times, k9.
Row 30: With MC, k9; with CC, [k1, sl 1, k2, [(k1, sl 1) twice] 4 times, k2, SR.
Row 31: With CC, k2, [(sl 1, k1) twice, k2, sl 1, k1] 4 times; with MC, k9.
Row 32: With MC, k9, [(sl 1, k1) twice, sl 1, k3] 4 times, sl 1, SR.
Row 33: With MC, sl 1, [k3, sl 1, (k1, sl 1) twice] 4 times, k1, SR.
Row 34: With MC, k1; with CC, k1, [sl 1, k7] 3 times, sl 1, k6, SR.
Row 35: With CC, k6, [sl 1, k7] 3 times, sl 1, k1; with MC, k9.
Row 36: With MC, knit across all sts working the short rows as you go.

Repeat these 36 rows 5[6, 7, 8] more times, and work Rows 1-35 of one more repeat.

FINISHING

Carefully remove Provisional Cast-on stitch by stitch, taking care to keep in pattern, transferring live stitches to 2nd needle. You'll graft with the working yarn; cut the working yarn leaving a 1 yd/1 m tail.

Bring both sets of stitches together and perform Kitchener Stitch for Garter Stitch across all the stitches, starting at the brim edge. Once the graft is complete, thread yarn through the edge stitches and pull to tighten to close the crown.

Weave in all ends. To block, wash and lay flat to dry, shaping gently as required. Don't stretch it.

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Woolly has a thing for Hats, especially sideways knit Hats. You can find her on most platforms as Woolly Wormhead. Her previous Knitty patterns include Hexed, Urbanista, Brindled and Bimitral (psst... they're all Hat patterns).

Woolly also blogs sporadically, and has an extensive tutorial library on her website.

Pattern & images © 2019 Woolly Wormhead.