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Loop


by Mary Burr

If you like knitting in the round, here's a jacket with flare (no pun intended).

This short jacket. with 3/4 sleeves comes to a point in the front and flares out slightly at the sides. The textural stitch that involves knitting through the backs of the stitches and purling in the usual manner, creates a crossed stitch. This also creates a slight bias, thus the point in the front.

This jacket has no button bands because, I don't like them. So you can use your imagination as for how you'd like to fasten it, if you choose to do so.

I was thrilled with the variations you came up with on my last Knitty pattern, Aibhlinn. I'm sure you'll come up with some more imaginative variations here.

model: Mary Burr photos: Bob Burr
SIZE
2XS[XS, S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL] shown in size S
To Fit Bust Sizes: 34[36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48, 50] inches
 
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Bust: 36[38, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48, 50, 52] inches
Front Length: 16.5[17, 18, 18.75, 19.5, 19.5, 20, 20.5, 20.75] inches

Note: This measurement is taken from front neck edge to bottom corner edge, NOT along curve that is formed by biasing of knitted fabric.
 

MATERIALS

Classic Elite Renaissance [100% Wool; 110 yds/100m per 50g skein];color: #7173 Tuscan Field; 8[9, 9, 9, 10, 10, 11, 12, 12, 13] skeins

1 40-inch US #7/4.5mm circular needle
1 set US #7/4.5mm double point needles
1 spare circular needle or set of double point needles, US #7/4.5mm or smaller
Stitch markers
Tapestry needle
GAUGE

22 sts/24 rows = 4 inches in Twisted Stockinette Stitch
20 sts/26 rows = 4 inches in stockinette st

Note: No part of this garment is worked in stockinette st; this gauge is included for the purpose of making yarn substitutions.
 
PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations can be found here]

Twisted Stockinette Stitch (Worked back and forth):
Row 1 [RS]: K all sts through back loops.
Row 2 [WS]: P all sts normally (through front loops).
These 2 rows form Twisted Stockinette Stitch when worked back and forth.

Twisted Stockinette Stitch (Worked in the round):
Round 1: K all sts through back loops.
Round 2: K all sts normally.
These 2 rows form Twisted Stockinette Stitch when worked in the round.

Slip Stitch Pattern (Worked back and forth over a multiple of 4 sts + 1):
Row 1 [RS]: Sl1, k3, [sl1 with yarn in back, k3] to last st, k1.
Row 2 [WS]: Sl1, k3, [sl1 with yarn in front, k3] to last st, p1.
Row 3 [RS]: Sl1, k1, [sl1 with yarn in back, k3] to last 3 sts, sl1 with yarn in back, k2.
Row 4 [WS]: Sl1, k1, [sl1 with yarn in front, k3] to last 3 sts, sl1 with yarn in back, k1, p1.
These 4 rows form Slip Stitch Pattern.

Slip Stitch Pattern (Circular) (Worked in the Round over a multiple of 4 sts + 3):
Round 1: P3, [sl1 with yarn in front, p3] to end.
Round 2: K3, [sl1 with yarn in front, k3] to end.
Round 3: P1, [sl1 with yarn in front, p3] to last 2 sts, sl 1 with yarn in front, p1.
Round 4: K1, [sl1 with yarn in front, k3] to last 2 sts, sl 1 with yarn in front, k1.
These 4 rounds form Slip Stitch Pattern (Circular).

 
DIRECTIONS

Lower Body:
Using circular needle, CO 205[213, 225, 237, 245, 261, 269, 281, 293] sts. Do not join.

Work 20 rows in Slip Stitch Pattern.

Note: When working next row, k all sts through back loops.

Next Row [RS]: Sl1, k48[50, 53, 56, 58, 62, 64, 67, 70], ssk, place marker, k51[53, 56, 59, 61, 65, 67, 70, 73], k2tog, k49[51, 54, 57, 59, 63, 65, 68, 71], place marker, k2tog, k49[51, 54, 57, 59, 63, 65, 68, 71]. 202[210, 222, 234, 242, 258, 266, 278, 290]

Work in Twisted Stockinette Stitch, slipping first st of every row, until work measures 8.25[8.25, 8.5, 9, 9.5, 9.5, 9.75, 10, 10] inches, ending with a RS row.

Next Row [WS]: Sl 1, [p to 5[5, 5, 5, 5, 7, 8, 8, 8] sts before marker, BO 10[10, 10, 10, 10, 14, 16, 16, 16] sts] twice, p to end. Set work aside and make Sleeves; do not break yarn.

Sleeves [Make 2]:
Using double-point needles and a new ball of yarn, CO 63[63, 67, 67, 67, 75, 75, 75, 79] sts. Distribute sts between needle, place marker and join to begin working in the round, being careful not to twist.

Work Slip Stitch Pattern (Circular) until work measures 6 inches.

Note: You may notice that the RS of your work looks like the WS of the band at the bottom of the jacket. This is because the Slip Stitch Pattern is worked here with the WS facing out, so that the RS will be facing when the cuff is turned back.

Work 7[7, 7, 7, 7, 7, 7, 5, 5] rounds in Twisted Stockinette Stitch.
Next Round: K1, m1, k to last st, m1, k1
Repeat these 8[8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 6, 6] rounds 1[1, 1, 3, 5, 3, 5, 7, 6] times more. 67[67, 71, 75, 79, 83, 87, 91, 93] sts.

Cont in Twisted Stockinette Stitch until work measures 13.5[13.75, 14, 14.5, 14.5, 15, 15, 15.25, 15.25] inches, ending with Round 1 of patt.
Next Round: K to 5[5, 5, 5, 5, 7, 8, 8, 8] sts before marker, BO 10[10, 10, 10, 10, 14, 16, 16, 16] sts. 57[57, 61, 65, 69, 69, 71, 75, 77] sts rem.

Break yarn. Place first sleeve on hold on spare needle(s); leave second sleeve on working needles.

Yoke
Join Sleeves to Lower Body
Note: When working Yoke as described below, continue working in Twisted Stockinette Stitch as set, slipping first stitch of each row. RS rows below are written without mentioning that sts are twisted; this is done for the sake of keeping directions concise, but k sts should still be twisted.

Using ball of yarn attached to lower front, k first 45[47, 50, 53, 55, 57, 58, 61, 64] sts of lower body, k 57[57, 61, 65, 69, 69, 71, 75, 77] sts of one sleeve, k next 92[96, 102, 108, 112, 116, 118, 124, 130] sts of lower body, k 57[57, 61, 65, 69, 69, 71, 75, 77] sts of rem sleeve, k rem 45[47, 50, 53, 55, 57, 58, 61, 64] sts of lower body.
296[304, 324, 344, 360, 368, 376, 396, 406] sts on needle.

Sizes 2XS, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL Only:
Next Row [WS]: Sl1, p146[_, _, _, _, 186, 196, 201], p2tog, p to end.
295[_, _, _, _, 375, 395, 405] sts.

Sizes XS, S, M Only:
Next Row [WS]: Sl 1, p_[151, 161, 171, _, _, _, _, _], m1, p to end.|
_[305, 325, 345, _, _, _, _, _] sts.

Size L Only:
P 1 row, slipping first st.

Size XL Only:
Next Row [WS]: Sl1, [p122, m1] twice, p to end. 370 sts.

All Sizes:
Cont in patt as set until work measures 2[2.25, 2.25, 2.5, 2.5, 2.5, 2.5, 2.5, 2.5] inches from beg of yoke, ending with a WS row.

First Decrease Row [RS]: Sl1, k1, k2tog, [k3, k2tog] to last st, k1.
236[244, 260, 276, 288, 296, 300, 316, 324] sts rem.

Cont in patt as set until work measures 4[4.5, 4.5, 4.75, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5.25] inches from beg of yoke, ending with a WS row.

Second Decrease Row [RS]: Sl1, k2tog, [k2, k2tog] to last st, k1.
177[183, 195, 207, 216, 222, 225, 237, 243] sts rem.

Cont in patt as set until work measures 6[6.5, 6.75, 7, 7.25, 7.25, 7.5, 7.5, 7.75] inches from beg of yoke, ending with a WS row.

Third Decrease Row [RS]: Sl1, k2tog, [k1, k2tog] to end.
118[122, 130, 138, 144, 148, 150, 158, 162] sts rem.

Cont in patt as set until work measures 7.75[8.25, 8.75, 9, 9.25, 9.25, 9.5, 9.75, 10] inches from beg of yoke, ending with a WS row.

Sizes 2XS, XS Only:
Next Row [RS]: Sl1, k57[59, _, _, _, _ , _, _, _], k2tog, k to end.
117[121, _, _, _, _, _, _, _] sts.

Sizes S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL Only:
Next Row [RS]: Sl1, k_[_, 11, 7, 7, 0, 1, 5, 7], k2tog, [k_[_, 24, 8, 7, 6, 7, 4, 4], k2tog] _[_, 4, 12, 14, 18, 16, 24, 24] times, k_[_, 12, 8, 8, 1, 2, 6, 8]. _[_, 125, 125, 129, 129, 133, 133, 137] sts rem.

All Sizes:
Next Row [WS]: Sl1, p28[29, 30, 30, 31, 31, 32, 32, 33], place marker, p59[61, 63, 63, 65, 65, 67, 67, 69], place marker, p29[30, 31, 31, 32, 32, 33, 33, 34].

Shape Neckline:
K to second marker, W&T.
P to marker, W&T.
K to 5 sts before marker, W&T.
P to 5 sts before marker, W&T.
K to end; when you encounter a wrapped st, pick up wrap and place it on left needle, then k it tog with wrapped st.

Collar:
Next Row; WS of work is facing: Work Row 1 [RS] of Slip Stitch Pattern.
Cont in Slip Stitch Pattern as set for 5 inches; when collar is folded back, RS of collar will show.
 
FINISHING

Weave in ends.
Block garment gently, ensuring that left and right fronts are even. Sew underarm seams.
Fold cuffs back halfway and tack in pace.


ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Mary Burr is a graphic designer and art director living and working in the Chicago area. She's been a closet knitter since childhood in the '70s.

More of her patterns are available at www.maryburr.com and she keeps a blog of her studio at www.maryburr.com/studioblog.

Pattern & images © 2005 Mary Burr. Contact Mary