Note:
In pattern when "slip 1" is used,
if ...
...slip 1 is followed
by a purl stitch: slip as if to purl with
yarn in front.
...slip 1 is followed by a knit stitch:
slip as if to knit with yarn in back.
Stockinette
Lace Ladder
Round 1: *ssk, double
yo, k2 tog*
Round 2: *k1, [k1, p1]
into double yo, k1*
CO 150[160, 170, 180,
190] sts with smaller circular needles.
Join, placing marker to indicate beginning
of round and being careful not to twist
work.
Work in k2, p3 ribbing
as follows: k1, *p3, k2* to 4 sts from marker,
p3, k1.
Continue ribbing for 0.5[1, 1, 1.5, 2] inch[es].
Work one decrease row
as follows: k1, *p2tog, p1, k2*, end p2tog,
p1, k1.
Work in Stockinette Lace
Ladder pattern for 3 inches.
Work one increase round as follows:
*Inc by knitting into front and back of st, p2,
k1* [returns you to original
stitch count]
Work in k2, p3 ribbing
as before for 2 more inches.
Change to larger circular needles
and continue in St st with k2, p3 ribbing at underarms
for 4.5 inches as follows: *k1, p3, k 67[72,
77, 82, 87], p3, k1* x 2 [place a contrasting
color marker after first repeat to mark opposite
underarm.]
Divide for front:
Work to within 2 sts of
marker indicating beginning of round and
BO 4 sts firmly in purl, p1, k 52[62, 72,
82, 92], p2.
Turn work.
You may either leave the remaining sts on
the circular needle or place them on a separate
circular needle or spare piece of yarn.
Continue to work on the sts for front of
top for 1 inch as follows, ending with a
WS row:
Row 1 [WS]: slip 1, k1,
p to 2 sts from end, k2.
Row 2 [RS]: slip 1, p1,
k to 2 sts from end, p2.
[See note for slipping
stitches above.]
Then begin decreasing
by working Row 2 as follows:
Row 2: slip 1, p2, ssk,
k to 4 sts from end, k2 tog, p2
Decrease a total of 10 times,
until there are 51[56, 61,
66, 71] sts remaining, then work Row 2
as before [no decreases] for 1 inch more.
Divide for shoulder straps:
On next RS row: work 20[22,24,26,28]
sts, BO next 11[12,13,14,15]sts
in purl, work remaining 14[18, 22, 27, 31] sts.
[From this point you will be working on one shoulder
strap first then going back to finish the second
shoulder strap.]
Continuing to work back
and forth on 14[18, 22, 27, 31] sts, decrease
at neck edge as follows:
Row 1 [RS]: slip 1, ssk,
k to 2 sts from end, p2
Row 2 [WS]: slip 1, k1,
p to end.
Continue to decrease in
this manner until 10[12, 14, 16, 18] sts
remain.
Work over these sts without
decreasing until work measures 17.5[18,
18.5, 19, 19.5] inches from cast on row.
You'll have to make a
choice now about how you'll eventually want
to attach the front shoulder straps to the
back straps [3-needle bind-off, Kitchener
stitch or seaming].
For the first two, slip
the 10[12, 14, 16, 18] sts to a spare piece
of yarn.
If you plan to sew the
straps together, bind off the 10[12, 14,
16, 18] sts.
Work Next Strap:
Reattach yarn to left
front at arm edge and work these 14[18,
22, 27, 31] sts, decreasing at neck edge
as follows:
Row 1 [RS]: slip 1, p1,
k to 3 sts from end, k2tog, k1.
Row 2 [WS]: slip 1, p
to 2 sts from end, k2.
Continue to decrease until
10[12, 14, 16, 18] sts remain.
Work over these stitches
without decreasing until work measures 17.5[18,
18.5, 19, 19.5] inches from cast on row
and slip to spare yarn/bind off as for previous
strap.
Return to the unworked
undearm stitches and reattach yarn.
Bind off first 4 sts firmly
in purl and work back as you did for the
front.