INTRODUCTION

Scrapple

by Anna Hatt

These handwarmers are scraptastic indeed. If it's long enough to weave in two ends and make a stitch in the middle, it's fair game!

The two handwarmers are fraternal twins rather than identical ones to accommodate the full range of scraps. A family resemblance is maintained by matching cuffs (made from larger part-balls) and a two-color wave motif. Color harmony comes from using part-balls of leftover striped sock yarn throughout. The second color is provided by the smallest scraps - change color whenever you need to, and enjoy choosing color combinations.

The handwarmers are a quick project which provides a simple introduction to stranded (Fair Isle) knitting. The end result has a cheerful, circus-like feel, and the stranding provides extra insulation.

Oh, and the pattern title? "Scrapple" is a word (unknown in the United Kingdom) which appears on the breakfast menu in a glorious inn in Bethlehem, Pennsylvania, where I stay for work sometimes. None of us has dared eat it, but it's a great name.

Editor's note: On a trip to PA in the 1990s, Philly and I asked a diner waitress what Scrapple was and she replied with this legendary description: "A spicy, meaty brick." We didn't order it.

model: Anna Hatt

photos: James Hatt

SIZE

Teen/Adult XS[S, M, L, XL]

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Circumference:  6.75[7.25, 7.75, 8.25, 8.75] inches/ 17[18.5, 19.5, 21, 22] cm
Length: 11.5 inches/29 cm, adjustable to preference

Choose a size approximately 0.5 inches/1 cm smaller than your hand circumference, measured around the palm. The pattern can be adjusted by casting on more or fewer stitches, always using a multiple of 4.

MATERIALS

Yarn
[MC]Rico Superba Cashmeri Luxury Socks 4 ply [25% polyamide, 65% wool, 10% cashmere; 437yd/400m per 100g ball]; 1 ball – approximately 85[90, 95, 100, 105] yds/ 75[80, 85, 90, 95] m
[CC1] WYS Signature 4ply Yarn from West Yorkshire Spinners [75% wool, 25% nylon; 437yds/400m per 100g ball]; 1 ball – approximately 85[90, 95, 100, 105] yds/ 75[80, 85, 90, 95] m
[CC2] variety of small scraps of single color sock yarn, approximately 85[90, 95, 100, 105] yds/ 75[80, 85, 90, 95] m

Yellow edging, shown in M (above) was worked entirely in unlabelled single-color sock yarn scraps
Blue edging, shown in S (below) uses [MC] Rainbow (027) and [CC1]: Cornflower
Pink edging, shown in XS (further below) uses [MC]: Ethno (020), [CC1]: Candyfloss

Yarn Characteristics
The pattern uses a standard sock yarn – the pattern looks best in a smoother yarn, and wool or wool blends are best for the colorwork, and to keep you warm.

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below - every knitter's gauge is unique]
US #2/2.75mm needles for small circumference in the round: flexible or traditional DPNs, 1 long circular or 2 shorter circulars

Notions
yarn needle

GAUGE

28 sts/40 rounds = 4 inches/10 cm in stockinette stitch
35 sts/33 rounds = 4 inches/10 cm in colourwork

PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

Construction method: The handwarmers are mostly knitted in the round from the bottom up, with a section knitted flat to provide a thumb hole. Very simple stranded knitting is used to provide the wave pattern in the stockinette section. The arm and hand cuffs are worked in 2 x 2 ribbing. Stitches are picked up round the thumb hole and the thumb cuff is worked in 1 x 1 ribbing.

Yarn information: This pattern is ideal for using up scraps. For a cohesive look, use the same solid color for upper and lower cuffs, and the thumb edging – this is the CC1. For the charted colorwork pattern, a fixed-striping yarn was used for the MC, as above, and for the CC2, a variety of scraps of solid-color sock yarn.

The patterning is most effective if you use solid/nearly solid colors, or long-run fixed stripes, rather than busy variegated yarns. These would look great if you used a solid color for MC, too. Or consider using scraps for both MC and CC2, for a really colorful effect. All samples used a variety of solid-colored scraps for CC2, some for as little as two rows, others for 10 or more rows.

When to change colors: If you are using a self-striping yarn for MC, and you reach a change in MC stripes, or reach the end of a scrap of CC2, or simply when you would like a change of color, swap to a new CC2. This does not need to be at the end of the round. If you wish, exchange the positions of MC and CC2 in the chart when you swap to a new CC2.

Techniques:

• Long tail cast on.
• You need a slightly stretchy bind off, to ensure that the top isn't constricted. Consider the extra yarnovers bind-off. If you need more stretch, try Jeny's surprisingly stretchy bind-off, working all sts as knits.
• Stranded Colorwork Knitting: This is done both in the round (all on RS) and flat (RS and WS rows).
• To maintain the tension of floats when working in the round, try turning the tube of knitting inside out and work on the inside surface further away from you. You may also find it helpful to carry one yarn in each hand.
• When working in the round, all stitches are knit.
  When working back and forth in rows, knit all sts on RS rows, and purl all sts on WS rows.

CHARTS

DIRECTIONS

Cuff rounds 1-16: (K2, p2) to end of round.

Next round: With MC and CC2, work chart in the round.
Work as set until you have completed 58 rounds in chart pattern, or to your desired length to base of thumb opening.

Tip: Do not worry if you make an occasional error in following the chart. It adds energy to the design.

Now you'll work back and forth in rows, to make the thumb opening:
Next row [RS]: Work chart next row across. Turn to WS.
Following row [WS]: Reading the chart in the opposite direction, purling all stitches, work chart to end of row.
Repeat the last 2 rows 6[6, 7, 7, 8] more times.

At this point you'll resume working in the round for the upper hand portion.
Next round: Work chart around as set.
Work as set for 1 more round,

Cut MC and all other yarns. Join CC1.

Cuff transition round: Knit.

If you ended the colorwork pattern at any of Rows 1-3, 5, or 9 of the chart, set up ribbing as follows: K1, p2. This position is the new start of round.

Hand cuff Rounds 1-16: (K2, p2) around.
BO all stitches using extra yarnovers bind-off (see pattern notes), Jeny's Surprisingly Stretchy method, or other BO which gives a stretchy edge.

Thumb
With RS facing, rejoin CC1 at bottom left of thumb opening, and pick up and knit 26[26, 30, 30, 32] stitches around thumb opening edge – 12[12, 14, 14, 15] sts up first side, 1 st in the corner, 12[12, 14, 14, 15] sts down the second side, and 1 st in the corner. Distribute sts across needles as you prefer and join for working in the round.

Round 1: (K 12[12, 14, 14, 15] , k1 tbl) twice.
Rounds 2-4: Knit.

BO all stitches using extra yarnovers bind-off (see pattern notes) or other BO which gives a stretchy edge.

FINISHING

To block, handwash in lukewarm water and lay flat to dry; do not stretch or pin. Weave in ends.

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Anna Hatt was taught to knit at the age of six by her grandmother and has been knitting ever since. She is a patent attorney living in London, UK with her husband and three children (including an embroiderer and a crocheter). This is her first published pattern.

Pattern & images © 2026 Anna Hatt