Constantine cape : Knitty Winter 2011

by Natalie Selles

This cape is a perfect addition to any winter wardrobe. It can be worn over any number of layers to create the perfectly cozy extra amount of warmth. It is knit all in one piece, but the addition of a belt creates the illusion of sleeves and a waist.

The construction starts from the shoulders and grows from there, which means that it is very easily customized for size and fit.

model: Natalie Selles

photos: Nick Merzetti

SIZE
XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X] (shown in size M)

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Chest: 32[36, 40, 44, 48, 52, 56] inches

Note: Chest measurement is based on width of back panel. This garment is designed to be loose-fitting, and the sizing is quite flexible. If you plan to wear it over a sweater, choose a size that is larger than your actual bust measurement. If you plan to wear it with lighter layers in warmer weather, choose a size that is close to your actual bust measurement.

MATERIALS
Yarn
Cascade Ecological Wool [100% Wool, 478yd/437m]; color: 8020; 3[3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 5] skeins
Note: Length of cape is custom-fitted; more or less yarn may be required.

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
1 US #7/4.5mm circular needle, 32 inches or longer
1 US #8/5mm circular needle, 36 inches or longer (longer needle recommended for larger sizes)
1 US #10.5/6.5mm needle, any type (used for I-cord bind off)

Notions
Stitch markers
Waste yarn or stitch holders (spare cirular needles can be used instead)
Yarn needle
6 buttons, approx. diameter 1 inch – buttons shown are made from coconut shells by AB Originals by John Galda
1 flat, clear plastic button, approx. diameter 1 inch

GAUGE

14 sts/28 rows = 4" in Seed Stitch using US #8/5mm needle, after blocking

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

The length of this garment is based on the back waist length of the wearer. To take this measurement, use a tape measure to measure straight down the center of the back, from the prominent bone at the base of the neck to the waistline. It is useful to tie a piece of string or elastic around the wearer's waist before measuring, to pinpoint waist level. If you are measuring yourself, it may be helpful to have a friend help you.

Instructions for the Cable Cast On can be found here.

Instructions for the Knitted Cast On method (“knitting on”) can be found here.

Instructions for the Backward Loop Cast On can be found here.

Seed Stitch (Worked over an even number of sts):
Row 1 [RS]: [K1, p1] to end.
Row 2 [WS]: [P1, k1] to end.
Repeat these 2 rows for Seed Stitch.

DIRECTIONS
SHOULDER PANEL (Make 2):
Using larger (US #8/5mm) circular needle, CO 14[16, 18, 18, 20, 20, 20] sts.

Row 1 [WS]: P all sts.

Row 2 [RS]: Sl 1 knitwise, k2, work in Seed Stitch to last 3 sts, k3.

Row 3 [WS]: Sl 1 purlwise, p2, work in Seed Stitch to last 3 sts, p3.

Repeat Rows 2-3 9[10, 11, 11, 12, 12, 12] times more.

Break yarn and place all sts on hold on smaller circular needle.
Work a second piece in the same way.

CAPE BODY
Note: When casting on sts in the next step, use knitted or cable cast on method. Be sure to work with RS of each shoulder panel facing.

Using larger circular needle, CO 4[4, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8] sts for right front neck; *beginning at CO edge, pick up and k 16[18, 20, 20, 22, 22, 22] sts along side edge of one shoulder panel; k first 2 held sts of panel, place marker, k1, work in Seed Stitch to last 3 sts of panel, k1, place marker, k2; pick up and k 16[18, 20, 20, 22, 22, 22] sts along remaining side edge of shoulder panel;* continuing from sts just worked, CO 16[16, 20, 20, 24, 24, 24] sts for back neck; repeat from * to * for remaining shoulder panel; CO 4[4, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8] sts for left front neck. 116[128, 148, 148, 168, 168, 168] sts: 22[24, 28, 28, 32, 32, 32] sts for each front, 10[12, 14, 14, 16, 16, 16] sts for each side panel, 52[56, 64, 64, 72, 72, 72] sts for back.

Upper Body Increase Sequence:
Row 1 [WS]: Sl 1 purlwise, p2, [work in Seed Stitch to 1 st before marker, p2] four times, work in Seed Stitch to last 3 sts, p3.

Row 2 [RS]: Sl 1 knitwise, k2, [work in Seed Stitch to 1 st before marker, m1, k2, m1] four times, work in Seed Stitch to last 3 sts, k3. 8 sts increased.

Row 3 [WS]: Work as for Row 1.

Row 4 [RS]: Sl 1 knitwise, k2, [work in Seed Stitch to 1 st before marker, k2, m1, work in Seed Stitch to 1 st before marker, m1, k2] twice, work in Seed Stitch to last 3 sts, k3. 4 sts increased.

Repeat these 4 rows 1[3, 2, 6, 5, 9, 12] times more. 140[176, 184, 232, 240, 288, 324] sts: 24[28, 31, 35, 38, 42, 45] sts for each front, 18[28, 26, 42, 40, 56, 68] sts for each side panel, 56[64, 70, 78, 84, 92, 98] sts for back.

The back and fronts of the garment have now been increased to their full width. From this point on, only the side panels will be increased.

The rest of the cape will be worked to fit, based on the wearer's back waist length (see Pattern Notes). It is a good idea to periodically transfer all sts to waste yarn or st holders and try on the garment to check the length, ensuring that front and back edges are even.

In directions that follow, measure length along center back, straight down from back neck edge. Note that length when worn will be deeper than length at center back, as shoulder panels will add approx. 1.75[2, 2.25, 2.25, 2.5, 2.5, 2.5] inches to the length of the garment.

Repeat Rows 3 and 4 of upper body increase sequence until work measures 8.25[8.5, 8.75, 8.75, 9, 9, 9] inches less than back waist length, ending with Row 4.

Lower Body Increase Sequence:
Row 1 [WS]: Sl 1 purlwise, p2, [work in Seed Stitch to 1 st before marker, p2] four times, work in Seed Stitch to last 3 sts, p3.
Row 2 [RS]: Sl 1 knitwise, k2, [work in Seed Stitch to 1 st before marker, k2] four times, work in Seed Stitch to last 3 sts, k3.
Row 3 [WS]: Work as for Row 1.
Row 4 [RS]: Sl 1 knitwise, k2, [work in Seed Stitch to 1 st before marker, k2, m1, work in Seed Stitch to 1 st before marker, m1, k2] twice, work in Seed Stitch to last 3 sts, k3. 4 sts increased.

Repeat these 4 rows until work measures 3.25[3.5, 3.75, 3.75, 4, 4, 4] inches less than back waist length, ending with Row 3. This is a good time to try on garment; lower edge should fall approx. 1.5 inches above waist level.

BELT OPENINGS

Left Front:
Row 1 [RS]: Sl 1 knitwise, k2, work in Seed Stitch to 3 sts before first marker, k3. Place remaining sts (all sts of side panels, back and right front) on st holders or waste yarn.
Row 2 [WS]: Sl 1 purlwise, work in Seed Stitch to last 3 sts, p3.
Work 11 more rows in pattern, ending with a RS row. Break yarn and place sts of left front on hold on smaller (US #7/4.5mm) circular needle.

Left Side Panel:
Place held sts of left side panel on larger circular needle and join yarn with RS facing.
Row 1 [RS]: Sl 1 knitwise, k2, m1, work in Seed Stitch to last 3 sts, m1, k3.
Row 2 [WS]: Sl 1 purlwise, p2, work in Seed Stitch to last 3 sts, p3.
Row 3 [RS]: Sl 1 knitwise, k2, work in Seed Stitch to last 3 sts, k3.
Row 4 [WS]: Work as for Row 2.
Repeat these 4 rows twice, then work Row 1 once more. Break yarn and place sts of side panel on hold on smaller circular needle.

Back:
Place held sts of back on larger circular needle and join yarn with RS facing.
Row 1 [RS]: Sl 1 knitwise, k2, work in Seed Stitch to last 3 sts, k3.
Row 2 [WS]: Sl 1 purlwise, work in Seed Stitch to last 3 sts, p3.
Work 11 more rows in pattern, ending with a RS row. Break yarn and place sts of back on hold on smaller circular needle.

Right Side Panel:
Work as for left side panel.

Right Front:
Work as for back. Do not break yarn or transfer sts to smaller circular needle.

Rejoin Panels:
Working held sts of all panels from smaller needle onto larger needle and replacing markers between panels, work Row 1 of lower body increase sequence over all sts.

Continue working lower body increase sequence until work measures 4[4.5, 5, 5.5, 6, 6, 6] inches from lower edge of belt openings or desired length, ending with a WS row. Try on cape to ensure best length.

I-cord Bind Off:
Using backward loop method and with RS of work facing, CO 3 sts onto left needle.
Using US #10.5/6.5mm needle, *k2, ssk (last st of I-cord worked together with first st of cape body), sl 3 sts from right needle to left needle; repeat from * until all sts of cape body have been bound off. Do not BO 3 sts of I-cord.

BUTTONHOLE BAND
Using smaller circular needle, k 3 sts of I-cord; continuing from these sts and with RS facing, pick up and k 2 sts for every 3 rows along right front edge of cape.

Count sts. When working first row, increase or decrease 1 or 2 sts if necessary to obtain a multiple of 4 sts.

Row 1 [WS]: Sl 1 purlwise, [p2, k2] to last 3 sts, p3.

Row 2 [RS]: Sl 1 knitwise, [k2, p2] to last 3 sts, k2.

These 2 rows set pattern for buttonhole band. Work 2 more rows in pattern.

Next Row [WS]: Work 71 sts in pattern, place marker, work in pattern to end.

Buttonhole Row 1 [RS]: Work in pattern to marker, remove marker, *BO 2 sts, work 17 sts in pattern (18 sts on right needle after bound off sts); repeat from * twice more, BO 2 sts, work in pattern to end.

Buttonhole Row 2 [WS]: Work in pattern to first set of bound off sts, *CO 2 sts using backward loop method, work in pattern to next set of bound off sts; repeat from * three times more, work in pattern to end.

Work 6 more rows in pattern. Loosely BO all sts in pattern.

BUTTON BAND
Using smaller circular needle and with RS facing, pick up and k 2 sts for every 3 rows along left front edge of cape, pick up and k 3 sts in CO edge of I-cord.
Count sts. If necessary, increase or decrease when working first row to obtain same number of sts as for buttonhole band.
Work as for buttonhole band, omitting buttonholes.

COLLAR
Using smaller circular needle and with RS facing, pick up and k 2 sts for every 3 rows along upper edge of buttonhole band, pick up and k 1 st in each CO st around neckline, pick up and k 2 sts for every 3 rows along upper edge of button band.
Count sts. When working first row, increase or decrease 1 or 2 sts if necessary to obtain a multiple of 4 sts.

Important: Because collar will be folded back, RS of collar is worked with WS of cape facing. Collar is worked with integral I-cord edging.

Row 1 [RS]: Sl 3 purlwise with yarn held to back of work, bring yarn between needles to front of work, [p2, k2] to last 5 sts, p2, k3.
Row 2 [WS]: Sl 3 purlwise with yarn held to front of work, bring yarn between needles to back of work, [k2, p2] to last 5 sts, k2, p3.
These 2 rows set pattern for collar. Continue in pattern until work measures 1.5 inches from picked-up edge, ending with a WS row.

Buttonhole Row 1 [RS]: Work in pattern to last 7 sts, BO 2 sts, work in pattern to end.
Buttonhole Row 2 [WS]: Work 5 sts in pattern, CO 2 sts using backward loop method, work in pattern to end.

Continue in pattern until work measures 3 inches from picked-up edge.
Switch to larger circular needle and continue in pattern until work measures 5 inches from picked-up edge.

Repeat Buttonhole Rows 1 and 2. Continue in pattern until work measures 8 inches from picked-up edge, ending with a RS row.

Loosely BO all sts knitwise.

BELT
Using smaller circular needle, CO 12 sts.
Every Row: [K2, p2] to end.
Work in pattern until work measures approx. 52[56, 60, 64, 68, 72, 76] inches or desired length. BO all sts.

FINISHING
Weave in ends and block as desired.
Sew buttons to button band, opposite buttonholes. Sew button to WS of collar, opposite lower buttonhole.
With collar unfolded, sew plain, flat button to WS of collar opposite upper buttonhole, then sew remaining decorative button to RS of collar in same location. Use plain button to fasten collar; when collar is folded, decorative button will show.

Insert belt through belt openings as shown in photos.

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Natalie Selles is a young twenty-something living in Toronto. She is a recent graduate of York University with a BA in Fine Arts Cultural Studies. She likes knitting at small gauges, watching her friends play music, and taking pictures.

When she isn’t adventuring on her bicycle, Natalie can be found working at Lettuce Knit, and blogging here.