INTRODUCTION

MetaMarclay

by Lisa Granick, aka Brooklineknitter

This sweater was inspired by a piece by artist Christian Marclay that graced the cover of the catalog for an exhibition of his work at the Centre Pompidou in Paris. Mr. Marclay often uses collage and borrows bits of other art, transforms them and incorporates them in his work. I thought that using this motif and bits of leftover yarns in a limited color range echoed his method.

I knew I wanted to embroider the motif, and that would be easiest with a design where the front panel was a separate piece, but I have preserved some advantages of top-down construction in both the sleeves and the body. I chose embroidery over stranded or intarsia knitting for the motif because the circles look much more perfectly round without any steps around the edge. I like that the chain stitches resemble knit stitches, too.

The knitting is TV knitting, but there is some seaming, and the embroidery requires attention (podcast compatible).

model: Sonia

photos: Lisa Granick, Christina Fleming

SIZE

Women's XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X]
shown in size L with 10 inches/25.5 cm of ease at largest part of chest

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Chest circumference at underarm:  36.75[41.75, 44.25, 49.25, 51.75, 56.75, 62, 64.5, 69.5] inches/ 93[106, 112.5, 125, 131.5, 144.5, 157, 163.5, 176.5] cm
Length: 22.5 inches/57 cm in front, by side of neck (all sizes, but customizable)

MATERIALS

Yarn
Silver-grey/yellow-orange sample (shown above):
Ewetopia Ridge Sport [100% wool; 300 yds/274 m per 100 g skein]; color: 20% Gray; 4[4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6] skeins
Ewetopia Silk and Mohair [72% super kid mohair, 28% silk; 455 yd/416 m per 50 g skein; color: Silver; 3[3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4] skeins
Note: Sample worked with both yarns held together.

Charcoal grey/blue-green sample (shown below):
Holst Supersoft [50% Merino, 50% Shetland wool; 314 yds/287 m per 50 g] held double; color: Oxford; 7[8, 8, 9, 9, 10, 11, 11, 12] cakes.
Sample worked with two strands held together.

CCs for motif:
Various leftovers – fingering, sport and DK weights [100% wool]; approximately 75 yd/69 m in total split between 5+ colors. Fingering and sport held together with mohair or fingering held double, DK used as a single strand.

Yarn Characteristics
The motif shows better with less drape and the mohair companion yarn makes the sweater fuzzy and the drape a little less heavy. Shetland style yarns such as Holst Supersoft or Biches & Buches Le Petit Lambswool can be held double and achieve the gauge with a similar drape.
The two strands used together in each of the samples have a gauge similar to worsted weight, and a single worsted weight yarn could be used for the MC instead.

The motif on the samples made use of leftovers, but a single skein of color changing yarn such as Ewetopia Helix or Noro Silk Garden Sock would work well (no need for a companion strand if the gauge matches).
Do not use Superwash yarns for the motif if you use non-superwash yarn for the MC, and vice versa.

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below - every knitter's gauge is unique]
1 US #7/4.5 mm circular needle, 40-inch/100-cm for body and for sleeves (magic loop)
1 US #6/4 mm circular needle, 40-inch/100-cm for ribbing
1 US #4/3.5 mm circular needle, 40-inch/100 cm for turtleneck
US #7/4.5 mm double pointed needles or short circulars for sleeves (optional)
US #6/4 mm double pointed needles or short circulars for ribbings (optional)
1 US #1 or 2/2.5 mm crochet hook (for picking up sts and provisional cast-on)

Notions
scrap yarn for provisional cast-on, to hold shoulder sts, to mark motif placement, and to baste side seams. ~2 yds of skinny cotton or linen yarn is useful for motif placement, as well; choose one you are not likely to sew through with a darning needle.
locking stitch markers
yarn needle for embroidery and seaming
ball-head sewing pins

GAUGE

19 sts/30 rows = 4 inches/10 cm in St st, measured after blocking.

PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

Construction method:
The front and back are worked separately to make the embroidery easier. A provisional cast-on at the bottom edge allows the decision about length to be put off until after trying the sweater on. The front and the back are each worked flat in St st with shaping at the armholes, shoulders and neck edge. Shoulder stitches are put on a holder for a 3-needle bind-off on the outside of the garment, which is done after completing the embroidery.

The embroidery on the front is done before the shoulders are seamed. You can, of course, use any motif you would like. I used a simple chain stitch, embroidering freehand onto the fabric without fabric stabilizer or hoop.

After the embroidery, the shoulders and sides are seamed, and the neck edge completed, as either a crew/jewel neck or a turtleneck with i-cord bind-off. Then stitches are picked up to knit the sleeves from the top down, ending with ribbing and i-cord bind-off.

To finish the bottom edge, stitches are picked up around both front and back and knit in the round to the desired body length, ending with ribbing and i-cord bind-off. The charcoal grey sample includes optional short-row shaping to add length to the back.

The only shaping before the neckline and shoulders is a slight armhole shaping, but the larger sizes could accommodate short-row bust shaping. Note that the embroidered motif as shown on the samples requires an unshaped width of 15 inches/38 cm. The yarn quantities do not reflect the extra yarn necessary for short-row bust shaping.

The sleeve, until the cuff, is knit in the round in St st. The cuff is worked in k3, p3 ribbing, finished with an i-cord BO. If preferred, switch to ribbing sooner for a wider cuff. The light grey sample has 6 rounds of ribbing, while the charcoal sample has approximately 19 rounds.

About Holst Supersoft: It blooms and softens significantly when washed. Some shades do lose a lot of dye when washed, so you may want to pre-wash to prevent color bleeding, and to get rid of the spinning oil left on the yarn. Note also that steam pressing fabric knit from Holst Supersoft that has not been pre-washed may result in a noxious odor. Here’s how to pre-wash:

• Skein the yarn, tying each skein in 4 places
  
• Wash with soap or wool wash to remove spinning oil and excess dye – you can add some vinegar if there is a lot of dye loss. Do not agitate the yarn to avoid felting.
  
• Remove as much water as possible. You can spin the skeins in the washing machine at high speed wrapped in a towel inside a net bag or zipped pillow case (a few skeins per bundle). Alternatively, place the skeins between towels and walk on them. The skeins can then be left to dry. 
  
• Wind the yarn into balls.
  
  

Swatch
Make a generous swatch so that you can measure your gauge accurately and practice the embroidery or try out any new techniques or modifications you might want to make. Use a provisional cast-on and scrap yarn to cast-on 30 sts. Work in MC in St st approximately 6 inches/15 cm and bind off loosely (or practice the i=cord bind-off if you have not done it before). Measure your swatch length and width before and after blocking it and letting it dry fully. The edge sts are often not normal, so measure across the 28 sts omitting the edges. Similarly, measure and count rows not incl the cast-on and bind-off.

Techniques:

• Provisional cast on using a crochet hook
• German short-rows (GSR):
  On a WS row: purl until the stated number of sts remain (the last st becomes the double stitch [DS]). Turn work. Create DS by bringing the yarn to front between the needles. Slip the last worked st on the left needle to the right needle purlwise. Bring working yarn over the right needle to back of work, tugging firmly to form the DS. Continue to work the RS row.
  On a RS row: knit until the stated number of sts remain. Turn work. Create DS by slipping the last worked st on the left needle to the right needle purlwise. Bring working yarn over the right needle to back of work, tugging firmly to form the DS, then bring the working yarn back to the front between the needles to work the WS row.
• I-cord bind-off:
  Use backward loop to add 3 sts to the left needle at the BOR. K2, k2togtbl with the last of the backward loop sts and the first st on the left needle. Transfer the 3 sts just worked back to the left needle.
  Continue in this manner *k2, k2togtbl, transfer the 3 sts worked back to the left needle*, until there are no more sts on the left needle.
  Cut the working yarn, leaving a tail long enough to graft the beginning and end together and weave in the end.
• Three needle bind-off:
  Holding the wrong sides of the shoulders together, work through both the front and back pieces, but instead of knitting through both, knit through the front st and purl through the back st, with the working yarn held between the two left needles.
• Mattress stitch:
  Place the front and back pieces side by side (edge to edge) with the right sides facing you. Use scrap yarn or locking st markers to join the two pieces at intervals, include at least the end, halfway and quarterway points. Remove these basting-markers as you come to them.
  Use a darning needle and the MC to sew, picking up the bars between the edge st and next column, alternating between the front and back pieces. Tighten the yarn every few inches, but make sure there is enough give that the seam doesn't cinch tightly.
• Embroidery: Please see the separate tutorial

DIRECTIONS

FRONT
Using a provisional cast on and scrap yarn, cast on 89[101, 107, 119, 125, 137, 149, 155, 167] sts. Attach MC and work is St st until piece measures 10[9.75, 9.75, 9.5, 8.75, 8, 7.25, 7, 7.5] inches/ 25.5[25, 25, 24, 22, 20.5, 18.5, 17.5, 19] cm in from the cast on edge, ending on a WS row.

Begin armhole shaping:
Work as follows for all sizes.

Row 1 [RS]: BO 2, knit to end.
Row 2 [WS]: BO 2, purl to end.
Row 3: BO 1, knit to end.
Row 4: BO 1, purl to end.
Row 5: Knit to end.
Row 6: Purl to end.
Row 7: BO 1, knit to end.
Row 8: BO 1, purl to end.
Rows 9-12: Work in St st without shaping.
Row 13: BO 1, knit to end.
Row 14: BO 1, purl to end. 79[91, 97, 109, 115, 127, 139, 145, 157] sts rem.
Continue to work in St st until piece measures 16.25 inches/41 cm from cast-on edge, ending on a WS row.

Neck and shoulder shaping:
Place locking st markers 21[25, 27, 32, 34, 39, 43, 44, 49] sts from each edge. These mark the final width of the neck opening (before trim or turtleneck) and are for reference only.
Note: In all short-row instructions, the sts remaining do not include the DS nor the sts between the DS and armhole edge.

Work Front left neck and shoulder:
Work as indicated for your size.

Size XS:
Row 1 [RS]: K33 and place next 13 sts on a piece of scrap yarn to be worked later as part of neck edge. Turn work and continue to work the upper left shoulder.
Row 2 [WS]: BO 3 at neck edge, purl to end of row. 30 sts rem.
Row 3 and all subsequent RS rows: Knit to neck edge.
Row 4: BO 3, purl to end. 27 sts rem.
Row 6: BO 2, purl to end. 25 sts rem.
Row 8: BO 1, purl to end. 24 sts rem.
Row 10: BO 1, purl to end. 23 sts rem.
Row 12: Begin short-row shaping of shoulder. BO 1, purl until 2 sts rem, turn work, make DS. 19 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 14: Purl until 4 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 14 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 16: Remove locking st marker. BO 1, purl until 4 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 8 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 18: Purl until 4 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 3 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 20: Purl to armhole edge, working each DS as 1 st as you pass it. 21 sts.

Size S:
Row 1 [RS]: K38 and place next 15 sts on a piece of scrap yarn to be worked later as part of neck edge. Turn work and continue to work the upper left shoulder.
Row 2 [WS]: BO 3 at neck edge, purl to end of row. 35 sts rem.
Row 3 and all subsequent RS rows: Knit to neck edge.
Row 4: BO 3, purl to end. 32 sts rem.
Row 6: BO 2, purl to end. 30 sts rem.
Row 8: BO 2, purl to end. 28 sts rem.
Row 10: BO 1, purl to end. 27 sts rem.
Row 12: Begin short-row shaping of shoulder. BO 1, purl until 4 sts rem, turn work, make DS. 21 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 14: Purl until 4 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 16 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 16: Remove locking st marker. BO 1, purl until 4 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 10 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 18: Purl until 4 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 5 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 20: Purl to armhole edge, working each DS as 1 st as you pass it. 25 sts.

Size M:
Row 1 [RS]: K41 and place next 15 sts on a piece of scrap yarn to be worked later as part of neck edge. Turn work and continue to work the upper left shoulder.
Row 2 [WS]: BO 3 at neck edge, purl to end of row. 38 sts rem.
Row 3 and all subsequent RS rows: Knit to neck edge.
Row 4: BO 3, purl to end. 35 sts rem.
Row 6: BO 2, purl to end. 33 sts rem.
Row 8: BO 2, purl to end. 31 sts rem.
Row 10: BO 1, purl to end. 30 sts rem.
Row 12: BO 1, purl to end. 29 sts rem.
Row 14: Begin short-row shaping of shoulder. BO 1, purl until 4 sts rem, turn work, make DS. 23 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 16: Purl until 5 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 17 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 18: Remove locking st marker. BO 1, purl until 5 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 10 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 20: Purl until 5 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 4 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 22: Purl to armhole edge, working each DS as 1 st as you pass it. 27 sts.

Size L:
Row 1 [RS]: K46 and place next 17 sts on a piece of scrap yarn to be worked later as part of neck edge. Turn work and continue to work the upper left shoulder.
Row 2 [WS]: BO 3 at neck edge, purl to end of row. 43 sts rem.
Row 3 and all subsequent RS rows: Knit to neck edge.
Row 4: BO 3, purl to end. 40 sts rem.
Row 6: BO 2, purl to end. 38 sts rem.
Row 8: BO 2, purl to end. 36 sts rem.
Row 10: BO 1, purl to end. 35 sts rem.
Row 12: BO 1, purl to end. 34 sts rem.
Row 14: Begin short-row shaping of shoulder. BO 1, purl until 3 sts rem, turn work, make DS. 29 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 16: Purl until 5 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 23 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 18: Remove locking st marker. BO 1, purl until 5 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 16 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 20: Purl until 5 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 10 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 22: Purl until 5 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 4 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 24: Purl to armhole edge, working each DS as 1 st as you pass it. 32 sts.

Size 1X:
Row 1 [RS]: K49 and place next 17 sts on a piece of scrap yarn to be worked later as part of neck edge. Turn work and continue to work the upper left shoulder.
Row 2 [WS]: BO 3 at neck edge, purl to end of row. 46 sts rem.
Row 3 and all subsequent RS rows: Knit to neck edge.
Row 4: BO 3, purl to end. 43 sts rem.
Row 6: BO 2, purl to end. 41 sts rem.
Row 8: BO 2, purl to end. 39 sts rem.
Row 10: BO 1, purl to end. 38 sts rem.
Row 12: BO 1, purl to end. 37 sts rem.
Row 14: BO 1, purl to end. 36 sts rem.
Row 16: Begin short-row shaping of shoulder. BO 1, purl until 4 sts rem, turn work, make DS. 30 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 18: Purl until 5 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 24 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 20: Remove locking st marker. BO 1, purl until 5 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 17 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 22: Purl until 5 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 11 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 24: Purl until 5 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 5 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 26: Purl to armhole edge, working each DS as 1 st as you pass it. 34 sts.

Size 2X:
Row 1 [RS]: K54 and place next 19 sts on a piece of scrap yarn to be worked later as part of neck edge. Turn work and continue to work the upper left shoulder.
Row 2 [WS]: BO 3 at neck edge, purl to end of row. 51 sts rem.
Row 3 and all subsequent RS rows: Knit to neck edge.
Row 4: BO 3, purl to end. 48 sts rem.
Row 6: BO 2, purl to end. 46 sts rem.
Row 8: BO 2, purl to end. 44 sts rem.
Row 10: BO 1, purl to end. 43 sts rem.
Row 12: BO 1, purl to end. 42 sts rem.
Row 14: BO 1, purl to end. 41 sts rem.
Row 16: Purl to end.
Row 18: Begin short-row shaping of shoulder. BO 1, purl until 5 sts rem, turn work, make DS. 34 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 20: Purl until 6 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 27 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 22: Remove locking st marker. BO 1, purl until 6 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 19 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 24: Purl until 6 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 12 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 26: Purl until 6 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 5 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 28: Purl to armhole edge, working each DS as 1 st as you pass it. 39 sts.

Size 3X:
Row 1 [RS]: K60 and place next 19 sts on a piece of scrap yarn to be worked later as part of neck edge. Turn work and continue to work the upper left shoulder.
Row 2 [WS]: BO 3 at neck edge, purl to end of row. 57 sts rem.
Row 3 and all subsequent RS rows: Knit to neck edge.
Row 4: BO 3, purl to end. 54 sts rem.
Row 6: BO 3, purl to end. 51 sts rem.
Row 8: BO 2, purl to end. 49 sts rem.
Row 10: BO 2, purl to end. 47 sts rem.
Row 12: BO 1, purl to end. 46 sts rem.
Row 14: BO 1, purl to end. 45 sts rem.
Row 16: BO 1, purl to end. 44 sts rem.
Row 18: Begin short row shaping of shoulder. Purl until 7 sts rem, turn work, make DS. 36 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 20: Remove locking st marker. BO 1, purl until 6 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 28 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 22: Purl until 6 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 21 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 24: Purl until 6 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 14 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 26: Purl until 6 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 7 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 28: Purl to armhole edge, working each DS as 1 st as you pass it. 43 sts.

Size 4X:
Row 1 [RS]: K62 and place next 21 sts on a piece of scrap yarn to be worked later as part of neck edge. Turn work and continue to work the upper left shoulder.
Row 2 [WS]: BO 3 at neck edge, purl to end of row. 59 sts rem.
Row 3 and all subsequent RS rows: Knit to neck edge.
Row 4: BO 3, purl to end. 56 sts rem.
Row 6: BO 3, purl to end. 53 sts rem.
Row 8: BO 2, purl to end. 51 sts rem.
Row 10: BO 2, purl to end. 49 sts rem.
Row 12: BO 1, purl to end. 48 sts rem.
Row 14: BO 1, purl to end. 47 sts rem.
Row 16: BO 1, purl to end. 46 sts rem.
Row 18: Purl to end.
Row 20: BO 1, purl to end. 45 sts rem.
Row 22: Begin short-row shaping of shoulder. Purl until 7 sts rem, turn work, make DS. 37 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 24: Remove locking st marker. BO 1, purl until 6 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 29 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 26: Purl until 6 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 22 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 28: Purl until 6 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 15 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 30: Purl until 6 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 8 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 32: Purl to armhole edge, working each DS as 1 st as you pass it. 44 sts.

Size 5X:
Row 1 [RS]: K68 and place next 21 sts on a piece of scrap yarn to be worked later as part of neck edge. Turn work and continue to work the upper left shoulder.
Row 2 [WS]: BO 4 at neck edge, purl to end of row. 64 sts rem.
Row 3 and all subsequent RS rows: Knit to neck edge.
Row 4: BO 3, purl to end. 61 sts rem.
Row 6: BO 3, purl to end. 58 sts rem.
Row 8: BO 2, purl to end. 56 sts rem.
Row 10: BO 2, purl to end. 54 sts rem.
Row 12: BO 1, purl to end. 53 sts rem.
Row 14: BO 1, purl to end. 52 sts rem.
Row 16: BO 1, purl to end. 51 sts rem.
Row 18: Purl to end.
Row 20: BO 1, purl to end. 50 sts rem.
Row 22: Purl to end.
Row 24: Purl to end.
Row 26: Begin short-row shaping of shoulder. Remove locking st marker. BO 1, purl until 8 sts rem, turn work, make DS. 40 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 28: Purl until 7 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 32 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 30: Purl until 7 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 24 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 32: Purl until 7 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 16 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 34: Purl until 7 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 8 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 36: Purl to armhole edge, working each DS as 1 st as you pass it. 49 sts.

All sizes continue here:
Place sts on scrap yarn.

Work Front right neck and shoulder:
Reattach yarn at right armhole edge and work shaping as follows for your size:

Size XS:
Row 1 [WS]: P33 and place next 13 sts on a piece of scrap yarn to be worked later as part of neck edge. Turn work and continue to work the upper right shoulder.
Row 2 [RS]: BO 3 at neck edge, knit to end of row. 30 sts rem.
Row 3 and all subsequent WS rows: Purl to neck edge.
Row 4: BO 3, knit to end. 27 sts rem.
Row 6: BO 2, knit to end. 25 sts rem.
Row 8: BO 1, knit to end. 24 sts rem.
Row 10: BO 1, knit to end. 23 sts rem.
Row 12: Begin short-row shaping of shoulder. BO 1, knit until 2 sts rem, turn work, make DS. 19 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 14: Knit until 4 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 14 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 16: Remove locking st marker. BO 1, knit until 4 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 8 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 18: Knit until 4 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 3 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 20: Knit to armhole edge, working each DS as 1 st as you proceed it. 21 sts.

Size S:
Row 1 [WS]: P38 and place next 15 sts on a piece of scrap yarn to be worked later as part of neck edge. Turn work and continue to work the upper right shoulder.
Row 2 [RS]: BO 3 at neck edge, knit to end of row. 35 sts rem.
Row 3 and all subsequent RS rows: Purl to neck edge.
Row 4: BO 3, knit to end. 32 sts rem.
Row 6: BO 2, knit to end. 30 sts rem.
Row 8: BO 2, knit to end. 28 sts rem.
Row 10: BO 1, knit to end. 27 sts rem.
Row 12: Begin short-row shaping of shoulder. BO 1, knit until 4 sts rem, turn work, make DS. 21 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 14: Knit until 4 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 16 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 16: Remove locking st marker. BO 1, knit until 4 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 10 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 18: Knit until 4 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 5 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 20: Knit to armhole edge, working each DS as 1 st as you proceed it. 25 sts.

Size M:
Row 1 [WS]: P41 and place next 15 sts on a piece of scrap yarn to be worked later as part of neck edge. Turn work and continue to work the upper right shoulder.
Row 2 [RS]: BO 3 at neck edge, knit to end of row. 38 sts rem.
Row 3 and all subsequent WS rows: Purl to neck edge.
Row 4: BO 3, knit to end. 35 sts rem.
Row 6: BO 2, knit to end. 33 sts rem.
Row 8: BO 2, knit to end. 31 sts rem.
Row 10: BO 1, knit to end. 30 sts rem.
Row 12: BO 1, knit to end. 29 sts rem.
Row 14: Begin short-row shaping of shoulder. BO 1, k until 4 sts rem, turn work, make DS. 23 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 16: Knit until 5 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 17 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 18: Remove locking st marker. BO 1, knit until 5 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 10 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 20: Knit until 5 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 4 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 22: Knit to armhole edge, working each DS as 1 st as you proceed it. 27 sts.

Size L:
Row 1 [WS]: P46 and place next 17 sts on a piece of scrap yarn to be worked later as part of neck edge. Turn work and continue to work the upper right shoulder.
Row 2 [RS]: BO 3 at neck edge, knit to end of row. 43 sts rem.
Row 3 and all subsequent WS rows: Purl to neck edge.
Row 4: BO 3, knit to end. 40 sts rem.
Row 6: BO 2, knit to end. 38 sts rem.
Row 8: BO 2, knit to end. 36 sts rem.
Row 10: BO 1, knit to end. 35 sts rem.
Row 12: BO 1, knit to end. 34 sts rem.
Row 14: Begin short-row shaping of shoulder. BO 1, kn it until 3 sts rem, turn work, make DS. 29 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 16: Knit until 5 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 23 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 18: Remove locking st marker. BO 1, knit until 5 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 16 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 20: Knit until 5 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 10 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 22: Knit until 5 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 4 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 24: Knit to armhole edge, working each DS as 1 st as you proceed it. 32 sts.

Size 1X:
Row 1 [WS]: P49 and place next 17 sts on a piece of scrap yarn to be worked later as part of neck edge. Turn work and continue to work the upper right shoulder.
Row 2 [RS]: BO 3 at neck edge, knit to end of row. 46 sts rem.
Row 3 and all subsequent WS rows: Purl to neck edge.
Row 4: BO 3, knit to end. 43 sts rem.
Row 6: BO 2, knit to end. 41 sts rem.
Row 8: BO 2, knit to end. 39 sts rem.
Row 10: BO 1, knit to end. 38 sts rem.
Row 12: BO 1, knit to end. 37 sts rem.
Row 14: BO 1, knit to end. 36 sts rem.
Row 16: Begin short-row shaping of shoulder. BO 1, knit until 4 sts rem, turn work, make DS. 30 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 18: Knit until 5 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 24 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 20: Remove locking st marker. BO 1, knit until 5 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 17 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 22: Knit until 5 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 11 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 24: Knit until 5 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 5 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 26: Knit to armhole edge, working each DS as 1 st as you proceed it. 34 sts.

Size 2X:
Row 1 [WS]: P54 and place next 19 sts on a piece of scrap yarn to be worked later as part of neck edge. Turn work and continue to work the upper right shoulder.
Row 2 [RS]: BO 3 at neck edge, knit to end of row. 51 sts rem.
Row 3 and all subsequent WS rows: Purl to neck edge.
Row 4: BO 3, knit to end. 48 sts rem.
Row 6: BO 2, knit to end. 46 sts rem.
Row 8: BO 2, knit to end. 44 sts rem.
Row 10: BO 1, knit to end. 43 sts rem.
Row 12: BO 1, knit to end. 42 sts rem.
Row 14: BO 1, knit to end. 41 sts rem.
Row 16: Knit to end.
Row 18: Begin short-row shaping of shoulder. BO 1, knit until 5 sts rem, turn work, make DS. 34 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 20: Knit until 6 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 27 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 22: Remove locking st marker. BO 1, knit until 6 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 19 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 24: Knit until 6 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 12 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 26: Knit until 6 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 5 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 28: Knit to armhole edge, working each DS as 1 st as you proceed it. 39 sts.

Size 3X:
Row 1 [WS]: P60 and place next 19 sts on a piece of scrap yarn to be worked later as part of neck edge. Turn work and continue to work the upper right shoulder.
Row 2 [RS]: BO 3 at neck edge, knit to end of row. 57 sts rem.
Row 3 and all subsequent WS rows: Purl to neck edge.
Row 4: BO 3, knit to end. 54 sts rem.
Row 6: BO 3, knit to end. 51 sts rem.
Row 8: BO 2, knit to end. 49 sts rem.
Row 10: BO 2, knit to end. 47 sts rem.
Row 12: BO 1, knit to end. 46 sts rem.
Row 14: BO 1, knit to end. 45 sts rem.
Row 16: BO 1, knit to end. 44 sts rem.
Row 18: Begin short-row shaping of shoulder. Knit until 7 sts rem, turn work, make DS. 36 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 20: Remove locking st marker. BO 1, knit until 6 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 28 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 22: Knit until 6 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 21 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 24: Knit until 6 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 14 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 26: Knit until 6 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 7 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 28: Knit to armhole edge, working each DS as 1 st as you proceed it. 43 sts.

Size 4X:
Row 1 [WS]: P62 and place next 21 sts on a piece of scrap yarn to be worked later as part of neck edge. Turn work and continue to work the upper right shoulder.
Row 2 [RS]: BO 3 at neck edge, knit to end of row. 59 sts rem.
Row 3 and all subsequent WS rows: Purl to neck edge.
Row 4: BO 3, knit to end. 56 sts rem.
Row 6: BO 3, knit to end. 53 sts rem.
Row 8: BO 2, knit to end. 51 sts rem.
Row 10: BO 2, knit to end. 49 sts rem.
Row 12: BO 1, knit to end. 48 sts rem.
Row 14: BO 1, knit to end. 47 sts rem.
Row 16: BO 1, knit to end. 46 sts rem.
Row 18: Knit to end.
Row 20: BO 1, knit to end. 45 sts rem.
Row 22: Begin short-row shaping of shoulder. Knit until 7 sts rem, turn work, make DS. 37 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 24: Remove locking st marker. BO 1, knit until 6 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 29 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 26: Knit until 6 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 22 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 28: Knit until 6 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 15 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 30: Knit until 6 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 8 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 28: Knit to armhole edge, working each DS as 1 st as you proceed it. 44 sts.

Size 5X:
Row 1 [WS]: P68 and place next 21 sts on a piece of scrap yarn to be worked later as part of neck edge. Turn work and continue to work the upper right shoulder.
Row 2 [RS]: BO 4 at neck edge, knit to end of row. 64 sts rem.
Row 3 and all subsequent WS rows: Purl to neck edge.
Row 4: BO 3, knit to end. 61 sts rem.
Row 6: BO 3, knit to end. 58 sts rem.
Row 8: BO 2, knit to end. 56 sts rem.
Row 10: BO 2, knit to end. 54 sts rem.
Row 12: BO 1, knit to end. 53 sts rem.
Row 14: BO 1, knit to end. 52 sts rem.
Row 16: BO 1, knit to end. 51 sts rem.
Row 18: Knit to end.
Row 20: BO 1, knit to end. 50 sts rem.
Row 22: Knit to end.
Row 24: Knit to end.
Row 26: Begin short-row shaping of shoulder. Remove locking st marker. BO 1, knit until 8 sts rem, turn work, make DS. 40 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 28: Knit until 7 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 32 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 30: Knit until 7 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 24 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 32: Knit until 7 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 16 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 34: Knit until 7 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 8 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 36: Knit to armhole edge, working each DS as 1 st as you proceed it. 49 sts.

All sizes continue here:
Place sts on scrap yarn. The front is ready for embroidery – please see Tutorial.

Back
The back is worked the same as the front until the neck shaping and has only a small (optional) embroidered motif near the bottom edge. Optional short-row shaping adds length to the back after seaming with the front.

Work as for front, working in St st until back measures 17.25[17.25, 17.5, 18, 18.25, 18.5, 18.5, 19, 19.5] inches, 44[44, 44.5, 45.5, 46, 47, 47, 48, 49.5] cm from cast-on edge before starting neck shaping.

As above, in all short-row instructions, the sts remaining do not include the DS nor the sts between the DS and armhole edge.

Work Back right neck and shoulder shaping:

Size XS:
Row 1 [RS]: K32 and place next 15 sts on a piece of scrap yarn to be worked later as part of the neck edge. Turn work and continue to work the upper right shoulder.
Row 2 [WS]: BO 5, purl to end. 27 sts rem.
Row 3 and all rem RS rows: Knit to neck edge.
Row 4: Begin short-row shaping of shoulder slope. BO 4, purl until 2 sts rem unworked, turn work, make DS. 20 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 6: BO 1, purl until 4 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 14 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 8: BO 1, purl until 4 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 8 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 10: Purl until 4 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 3 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 12: Purl to armhole edge, working each DS as a single st as you proceed. 21 sts.

Size S:
Row 1 [RS]: K36 and place next 19 sts on a piece of scrap yarn to be worked later as part of the neck edge. Turn work and continue to work the upper right shoulder.
Row 2 [WS]: BO 5, purl to end. 31 sts rem.
Row 3 and all rem RS rows: Knit to neck edge.
Row 4: Begin short-row shaping of shoulder slope. BO 4, purl until 4 sts rem unworked, turn work, make DS. 22 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 6: BO 1, purl until 4 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 16 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 8: BO 1, purl until 4 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 10 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 10: Purl until 4 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 5 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 12: Purl to armhole edge, working each DS as a single st as you proceed. 25 sts.

Size M:
Row 1 [RS]: K38 and place next 21 sts on a piece of scrap yarn to be worked later as part of the neck edge. Turn work and continue to work the upper right shoulder.
Row 2 [WS]: BO 5, purl to end. 33 sts rem.
Row 3 and all rem RS rows: Knit to neck edge.
Row 4: Begin short-row shaping of shoulder slope. BO 4 , purl until 4 sts rem unworked, turn work, make DS. 24 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 6: BO 1, purl until 5 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 17 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 8: BO 1, purl until 5 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 10 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 10: Purl until 5 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 4 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 12: Purl to armhole edge, working each DS as a single st as you proceed. 27 sts.

Size L:
Row 1 [RS]: K43 and place next 23 sts on a piece of scrap yarn to be worked later as part of the neck edge. Turn work and continue to work the upper right shoulder.
Row 2 [WS]: Begin short-row shaping of shoulder slope. BO 5, purl until 3 sts rem, turn work, make DS. 34 sts rem to be worked on next row
Row 3 and all rem RS rows: Knit to neck edge.
Row 4: BO 4, purl until 5 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 24 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 6: BO 1, purl until 5 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 17 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 8: BO 1, purl until 5 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 10 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 10: Purl until 5 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 4 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 12: Purl to armhole edge, working each DS as a single st as you proceed. 32 sts.

Size 1X:
Row 1 [RS]: K45 and place next 25 sts on a piece of scrap yarn to be worked later as part of the neck edge. Turn work and continue to work the upper right shoulder.
Row 2 [WS]: Begin short-row shaping of shoulder slope. BO 5, purl until 4 sts rem, turn work, make DS. 35 sts rem to be worked on next row
Row 3 and all rem RS rows: Knit to neck edge.
Row 4: BO 4, purl until 5 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 25 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 6: BO 1, purl until 5 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 18 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 8: BO 1, purl until 5 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 11 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 10: Purl until 5 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 5 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 12: Purl to armhole edge, working each DS as a single st as you proceed. 34 sts.

Size 2X:
Row 1 [RS]: K50 and place next 27 sts on a piece of scrap yarn to be worked later as part of the neck edge. Turn work and continue to work the upper right shoulder.
Row 2 [WS]: Begin short-row shaping of shoulder slope. BO 5, purl until 5 sts rem, turn work, make DS. 39 sts rem to be worked on next row
Row 3 and all rem RS rows: Knit to neck edge.
Row 4: BO 4, purl until 6 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 28 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 6: BO 1, purl until 6 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 20 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 8: BO 1, purl until 6 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 12 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 10: Purl until 6 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 5 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 12: Purl to armhole edge, working each DS as a single st as you proceed. 39 sts.

Size 3X:
Row 1 [RS]: K54 and place next 31 sts on a piece of scrap yarn to be worked later as part of the neck edge. Turn work and continue to work the upper right shoulder.
Row 2 [WS]: Begin short-row shaping of shoulder slope. BO 5, purl until 7 sts rem, turn work, make DS. 41 sts rem to be worked on next row
Row 3 and all rem RS rows: Knit to neck edge.
Row 4: BO 4, purl until 6 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 30 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 6: BO 1, purl until 6 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 22 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 8: BO 1, purl until 6 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 14 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 10: Purl until 6 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 7 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 12: Purl to armhole edge, working each DS as a single st as you proceed. 43 sts.

Size 4X:
Row 1 [RS]: K55 and place next 35 sts on a piece of scrap yarn to be worked later as part of the neck edge. Turn work and continue to work the upper right shoulder.
Row 2 [WS]: Begin short-row shaping of shoulder slope. BO 5, purl until 7 sts rem, turn work, make DS. 42 sts rem to be worked on next row
Row 3 and all rem RS rows: Knit to neck edge.
Row 4: BO 4, purl until 6 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 31 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 6: BO 1, purl until 6 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 23 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 8: BO 1, purl until 6 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 15 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 10: Purl until 6 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 8 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 12: Purl to armhole edge, working each DS as a single st as you proceed. 44 sts.

Size 5X:
Row 1 [RS]: K60 and place next 37 sts on a piece of scrap yarn to be worked later as part of the neck edge. Turn work and continue to work the upper right shoulder.
Row 2 [WS]: Begin short-row shaping of shoulder slope. BO 5, purl until 8 sts rem, turn work, make DS. 46 sts rem to be worked on next row
Row 3 and all rem RS rows: Knit to neck edge.
Row 4: BO 4, purl until 7 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 34 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 6: BO 1, purl until 7 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 25 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 8: BO 1, purl until 7 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 16 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 10: Purl until 7 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 8 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 12: Purl to armhole edge, working each DS as a single st as you proceed. 49 sts.

All sizes continue here:
Cut yarn, leaving a tail long enough to complete the 3-needle bind off across the shoulder, at least 1-1.25 inch/2.5-3 cm per stitch + tail to weave in.

Work Back left neck and shoulder shaping
Reattach yarn at left armhole edge:

Size XS:
Row 1 [WS]: P32 and place next 15 sts on a piece of scrap yarn to be worked later as part of the neck edge. Turn work and continue to work the upper left shoulder.
Row 2 [RS]: BO 5, knit to end, turn work. 27 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 3 and all rem WS rows: Purl to neck edge.
Row 4: Begin short-row shaping of shoulder slope. BO 4 , knit until 2 sts rem unworked, turn work, make DS. 20 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 6: BO 1, knit until 4 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 14 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 8: BO 1, knit until 4 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 8 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 10: Knit until 4 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 3 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 12: Knit to armhole edge, working each DS as a single st as you proceed. 21 sts.

Size S:
Row 1 [WS]: P36 and place next 19 sts on a piece of scrap yarn to be worked later as part of the neck edge. Turn work and continue to work the upper left shoulder.
Row 2 [RS]: BO 5, knit to end, turn work. 31 sts rem to be worked on next row
Row 3 and all rem WS rows: Purl to neck edge.
Row 4: Begin short-row shaping of shoulder slope. BO 4 , knit until 4 sts rem unworked, turn work, make DS. 22 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 6: BO 1, knit until 4 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 16 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 8: BO 1, knit until 4 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 10 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 10: Knit until 4 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 5 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 12: Knit to armhole edge, working each DS as a single st as you proceed. 25 sts.

Size M:
Row 1 [WS]: P38 and place next 21 sts on a piece of scrap yarn to be worked later as part of the neck edge. Turn work and continue to work the upper left shoulder.
Row 2 [RS]: BO 5, knit to end, turn work. 33 sts rem to be worked on next row
Row 3 and all rem WS rows: Purl to neck edge.
Row 4: Begin short-row shaping of shoulder slope. BO 4 , knit until 4 sts rem unworked, turn work, make DS. 24 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 6: BO 1, knit until 5 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 17 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 8: BO 1, knit until 5 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 10 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 10: Knit until 5 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 4 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 12: Knit to armhole edge, working each DS as a single st as you proceed. 27 sts.

Size L:
Row 1 [WS]: P43 and place next 23 sts on a piece of scrap yarn to be worked later as part of the neck edge. Turn work and continue to work the upper left shoulder.
Row 2 [RS]: Begin short-row shaping of shoulder slope. BO 5, knit until 3 sts rem, turn work, make DS. 34 sts rem to be worked on next row
Row 3 and all rem WS rows: Purl to neck edge.
Row 4: BO 4, knit until 5 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 24 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 6: BO 1, knit until 5 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 17 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 8: BO 1, knit until 5 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 10 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 10: Knit until 5 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, and DS. 4 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 12: Knit to armhole edge, working each DS as a single st as you proceed. 32 sts.

Size 1X:
Row 1 [WS]: P45 and place next 25 sts on a piece of scrap yarn to be worked later as part of the neck edge. Turn work and continue to work the upper left shoulder.
Row 2 [RS]: Begin short-row shaping of shoulder slope. BO 5, knit until 4 sts rem, turn work, make DS. 35 sts rem to be worked on next row
Row 3 and all rem WS rows: Purl to neck edge.
Row 4: BO 4, knit until 5 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 25 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 6: BO 1, knit until 5 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 18 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 8: BO 1, knit until 5 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 11 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 10: Knit until 5 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 5 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 12: Knit to armhole edge, working each DS as a single st as you proceed. 34 sts.

Size 2X:
Row 1 [WS]: P50 and place next 27 sts on a piece of scrap yarn to be worked later as part of the neck edge. Turn work and continue to work the upper left shoulder.
Row 2 [RS]: Begin short-row shaping of shoulder slope. BO 5, knit until 5 sts rem, turn work, make DS. 39 sts rem to be worked on next row
Row 3 and all rem WS rows: Purl to neck edge.
Row 4: BO 4, knit until 6 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 28 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 6: BO 1, knit until 6 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 20 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 8: BO 1, knit until 6 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 12 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 10: Knit until 6 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 5 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 12: Knit to armhole edge, working each DS as a single st as you proceed. 39 sts.

Size 3X:
Row 1 [WS]: P54 and place next 31 sts on a piece of scrap yarn to be worked later as part of the neck edge. Turn work and continue to work the upper left shoulder.
Row 2 [RS]: Begin short-row shaping of shoulder slope. BO 5, knit until 7 sts rem, turn work, make DS. 41 sts rem to be worked on next row
Row 3 and all rem WS rows: Purl to neck edge.
Row 4: BO 4, knit until 6 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 30 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 6: BO 1, knit until 6 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 22 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 8: BO 1, knit until 6 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 14 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 10: Knit until 6 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 7 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 12: Knit to armhole edge, working each DS as a single st as you proceed. 43 sts.

Size 4X:
Row 1 [WS]: P55 and place next 35 sts on a piece of scrap yarn to be worked later as part of the neck edge. Turn work and continue to work the upper left shoulder.
Row 2 [RS]: Begin short-row shaping of shoulder slope. BO 5, knit until 7 sts rem, turn work, make DS. 42 sts rem to be worked on next row
Row 3 and all rem WS rows: Purl to neck edge.
Row 4: BO 4, knit until 6 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 31 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 6: BO 1, knit until 6 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 23 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 8: BO 1, knit until 6 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 15 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 10: Knit until 6 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 8 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 12: Knit to armhole edge, working each DS as a single st as you proceed. 44 sts.

Size 5X:
Row 1 [WS]: P60 and place next 37 sts on a piece of scrap yarn to be worked later as part of the neck edge. Turn work and continue to work the upper left shoulder.
Row 2 [RS]: Begin short-row shaping of shoulder slope. BO 5, knit until 8 sts rem, turn work, make DS. 46 sts rem to be worked on next row
Row 3 and all rem RS rows: Purl to neck edge.
Row 4: BO 4, knit until 7 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 34 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 6: BO 1, knit until 7 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 25 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 8: BO 1, knit until 7 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 16 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 10: Knit until 7 sts rem unworked before prior DS, turn work, make DS. 8 sts rem to be worked on next row.
Row 12: Knit to armhole edge, working each DS as a single st as you proceed. 49 sts.

All sizes continue here:
Cut yarn, leaving a tail long enough to complete the 3-needle bind off across the shoulder, at least 1-1.25 inch/2.5-3 cm per stitch + tail to weave in.

Optional motif: If you would like to add any embroidery to the upper back, do so before seaming. Embroidering near the back hem is not difficult after assembly and may be done later.

Seaming the body:
Work the flat-lying 3-needle bind off. Use DPNs if in place or place the left shoulder sts from front and back pieces onto opposite ends of a circular needle so that they can be worked from the armhole edge to the neck edge using the long yarn tail already attached. Work right shoulder 3-needle bind off in the same manner.

Seam the sides using mattress stitch. You will be picking up sts from the provisional CO later, so wait to weave in the bottom ends of the side seams until later, so the sts at the bottom are as undistorted and accessible as possible.

The shape of the back will change significantly after completing the bottom and edge. It may look billowy at this stage.

Neck edge:
Work the neck edge next, as it will impact the fit of the shoulders and how long you want to work the sleeves. You may choose to work the neck edge to any width, but if making a turtleneck (folded over or not), include the front short-row section, as otherwise a small fold might appear at the nape of the neck. There is no need for the short rows if you want a jewel/ crew neck (see below).

The neck trim consists of k3, p3 ribbing (a multiple of 6 sts), followed by a 3 st i-cord bind off. Transfer the neck sts in the center front and back to the ribbing needle, with the tips accessible to start working at the left shoulder seam.

Starting at the left shoulder and with the first st coming through the 3-needle bind off line, pick up and knit 22[22, 24, 25, 27, 28, 29, 32, 34] sts from the front left neck edge, pm, k 13[15, 15, 17, 17, 19, 19, 21, 21] sts from the center front, pm, pick-up and knit 22[22, 24, 25, 27, 28, 29, 32, 34] sts from the front right (with the last through the 3-needle bind off line), 15 sts from the back right, k 15[19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 31, 35, 37] sts from the center back, and pick up and knit 15 sts from the back left. 102[108, 114, 120, 126, 132, 138, 150, 156] sts total.

Note: the markers around the center front sts are needed only for the turtleneck.

Ribbing rnd 1: Pm for beginning of round, K2, *p3, k3* until 4 sts rem, p3, k1.

Jewel/ crew neck: continue to work ribbing in pattern as established in the round to desired width. Light grey sample pictured had 6 rounds of ribbing total before i-cord bind-off.

Turtleneck: Work first round ribbing as above, on ribbing needle. Work short-rows, thus:

Short row 1 [RS]: Starting at left shoulder, work in rib pattern to 8[8, 6, 5, 7, 3, 5, 4, 6] sts past the 2nd marker near the center front, turn and make DS.
Short row 2 [WS]: Work in pattern to 8[8, 6, 5, 7, 3, 5, 4, 6] sts past the other center front marker, turn and make DS.
All further short rows: Work in pattern to 7[7, 6, 5, 5, 5, 4, 4, 4] sts past the prior DS not counting the DS (work DS in pattern), turn and make DS.
Continue in this manner until the last short row turns at the shoulder seam on the left side. Turn work.

Switch to smallest needle and resume working ribbing in the round, work any remaining DS in pattern. Work to desired height of turtleneck. If you would like the neck to fold over, at the fold height switch back to the ribbing needle and work to desired length. Suggested height measured at center back: 3.75 inches/9.5 cm to fold-line or top edge if not to be folded; 7.5 inches/ 19 cm full length if to be folded.

Next rnd: Work i-cord bind-off on smallest needle.

Sleeves
Using the main needle and starting at the side seam, pick up and knit 83[85, 89, 91, 101, 109, 117, 125, 125] sts, and pm for beginning of rnd.

Work in St st, decreasing 2 sts every 6[6, 5, 5, 4, 4, 3, 3, 3] rounds, as follows:
Decrease rnd: K1, k2tog, knit until 3 sts remain, ssk, k1.

Continue to work Decrease rnd as indicated until 43[43, 43, 49, 49, 49, 55, 55, 55] sts rem.

Continue in St st until Sleeve measures 18[17.75, 18, 17.75, 17, 16.75, 16, 16.5, 15.25] inches/ 45.5[45, 45.5, 45, 43.5, 43, 41, 42, 38.5] cm, or 0.75 inches/ 2 cm short of desired length.

Switch to ribbing needle and work 6 rounds of k3, p3 ribbing, decreasing 1 st at beginning of first ribbed round, as follows: p2tog, p2, k3 , *p3, k3; repeat from * to end of round. 42[42, 42, 48, 48, 48, 54, 54, 54] sts rem.

Work 5 more rounds of k3, p3 ribbing in pattern as established. Work i-cord BO.

Bottom edge:
There is a leap of faith at this point as you try on the sweater and think about final length. Optional short-row shaping of the back adds 12 rows, or ~1.5 inches/4 cm measured at the center back.

Remove the provisional cast on, placing sts on the main body needle. 88[100, 106, 118, 124, 136, 148, 154, 166] sts each for front and back, 176[200, 212, 236, 248, 272, 296, 308, 332] sts total.

Rnd 1: Beginning on bottom right, sl 1 (to be worked together with last st), *knit to 1 st before side seam, k2tog; repeating from * once, place beginning of rnd marker. 174[198, 210, 234, 246, 270, 294, 306, 330] sts rem.
Rnd 2: Knit.

Optional short-row lengthening of back:
Place st markers at each side seam.

Short row 1 [WS]: Turn work, make DS, and purl to m at side seam, turn, make DS
Short row 2 [RS]: Knit until 5[5, 6, 7, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11] sts rem unworked before the prior DS, turn, make DS.
Short row 3: Purl until 5[5, 6, 7, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11] sts rem unworked before the DS, turn, make DS.
Short row 4: Knit until 5[6, 7, 8, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12] sts rem unworked before the DS, turn, make DS.
Short row 5: Purl until 5[6, 7, 8, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12] sts rem unworked before the, turn, make DS.
Short row 6: Knit until 6[7, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 11, 12] sts rem unworked before the DS, turn, make DS.
Short row 7: Purl until 6[7, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 11, 12] sts rem unworked before the DS, turn, make DS.
Short row 8: Knit until 6[8, 8, 9, 9, 11, 12, 12, 13] sts rem unworked before the DS, turn, make DS.
Short row 9: Purl until 6[8, 8, 9, 9, 11, 12, 12, 13] sts rem unworked before the DS, turn, make DS.
Short row 10: Knit until 7[8, 9, 10, 10, 11, 12, 12, 13] sts rem unworked before the DS, turn, make DS.
Short row 11: Purl until 7[8, 9, 10, 10, 11, 12, 12, 13] sts rem unworked before the DS, turn, make DS.
Next round: Knit to BOR (at right hip), knitting each DS as 1 st as you proceed.

Continue knitting in the round (knitting any remaining DS's on the first round) until desired length less ribbing. Switch to middle sized needle, and work 6 rounds of p3, k3 ribbing, or to desired length.

For reference, the light grey sample has no short-rows, and 7 rounds of ribbing that measure about 1 inch/2.5 cm. The charcoal sample includes the short-rows, followed by 19 rounds of ribbing measuring about 2 inches/5 cm, started on the round directly after the short-row DS's were knit.

Work i-cord BO on same needle as ribbing.

Optional: Embroider a small motif on the lower back (see photo).

FINISHING

Weave in any remaining ends.

Blocking: Wash gently, being mindful of the potential for color bleeding (consider using a dye-catching product or a mix of vinegar and water). After rinsing, place the sweater in a net bag or pillowcase and spin at high speed in a front-loading washer, if available (add a large towel or two to balance the washer). Lay flat to dry, pulling individual embroidered dots to shape, as necessary.

A – Chest circumference at underarm: 36.75[41.75, 44.25, 49.25, 51.75, 56.75, 62, 64.5, 69.5] inches/ 93[106, 112.5, 125, 131.5, 144.5, 157, 163.5, 176.5] cm
B – Total length: 22.5 inches/ 57 cm
C – Length to underarm (not including ribbing): 10[9.75, 9.75, 9.5, 8.75, 8, 7.25, 7, 7.5] inches/ 25.5[25, 25, 24, 22, 20.5, 18.5, 17.5, 19] cm
D –Armhole depth: 7.75[8, 8.25, 8.5, 9.5, 10.5, 11.25, 12, 12] inches/ 19.5[20, 21, 21.5, 24, 26.5, 28.5, 30.5, 30.5] cm
E – Shoulder drop: 1[1, 1, 1.25, 1.25, 1.25, 1.25, 1.25, 1.25] inches/ 2.5[2.5, 2.5, 3.5, 3.5, 3.5, 3.5, 3.5, 3.5] cm
F – Front neck depth, before trim or turtleneck: 2.75[2.75, 3, 3.25, 3.5, 3.75, 3.75, 4.25, 4.75] inches/ 6.5[6.5, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9.5, 9.5, 11, 12] cm
G – Shoulder width: 4.5[5.25, 5.75, 6.75, 7.25, 8.25, 9, 9.25, 10.25] inches/ 11[13, 14, 17, 18, 20.5, 22.5, 23, 26] cm
H – Back neck width: 7.75[8.75, 9, 9.5, 10, 10.25, 11.25, 12, 12.5] inches/ 19.5[21.5, 22.5, 23.5, 24.5, 26, 28, 30, 31] cm
I – Motif diameter: Approx. 15 inches/ 38 cm
J – Sleeve length: 19[18.75, 19, 18.75, 18, 17.75, 17, 17.5, 16.25] inches/ 48[47.5, 48, 47.5, 46, 45.5, 43.5, 44.5, 41] cm
K – Upper arm circumference: 17.5[18, 18.75, 19.25, 21.25, 23, 24.5, 26.25, 26.25] inches/ 44.5[45.5, 47.5, 49, 54, 58.5, 62, 66.5, 66.5] cm
L – Wrist circumference: 9[9, 9, 10.25, 10.25, 10.25, 11.5, 11.5, 11.5] inches/ 23[23, 23, 26, 26, 26, 29, 29, 29] cm

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Lisa lives in Boston, where it's cold enough to wear cozy winter sweaters. She thinks maybe she should have gone to FIT instead of MIT, but she's happy to find that design work involves spreadsheets (and even protractors, on occasion).

You'll find more of her work on Ravelry.

Pattern & images © 2024 Lisa Granick, aka Brooklineknitter