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Twists and Turns

This cozy hooded, zippered cardigan is designed to fit snugly underneath a fall jacket, so you can put off getting out the winter coat as long as possible.

The deep ribbing in the body is jazzed up with alternating rope cables, and the sleeves feature a wide knotwork panel inspired by a pattern filched from the Book of Kells, using cable techniques taught by Alice Starmore in her book Aran Knitting.

model: Jodi Green photos: Peter Zimmerman

SIZE
S [M, L, XL, XXL]
 
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Chest: 37[40, 42, 44, 48] inches
Length: 21[21, 22, 23.5, 24] inches

 

MATERIALS

The model was made with a 100% lambswool that I recycled from a secondhand sweater; a great substitute that works up to the same gauge is:

Patons Classic Merino Wool [100% wool; 223yd/204m per 100g skein]; 8 [8, 9, 9, 10] skeins

1 set US #7/4.5mm straight needles
1 30-inch US #7/4.5mm circular needle
cable needle, stitch holders and markers
18-inch metal zipper

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations can be found here]

GAUGE

20 sts/26 rows = 4" in stockinette stitch

 
DIRECTIONS

Sleeve (Make 2)
Using straight needles, CO 52 sts.
Row 1 [RS]: K1, work Row 1 of Chart A to last st, k1.
Row 2 [WS]: K1, work Row 2 of Chart A to last st, k1.
Cont in patt as set, foll Chart A with edge sts in garter st, until work measures 2 inches, ending with Row 4 or 8 of Chart A.
Next Row [RS]: Work 14 sts in patt, p23 sts, work rem 15 sts in patt. (Chart B show the placement of this area of reverse stockinette st -- Chart C will be inserted into this space.)
Next Row [WS]: Work in patt as set, cont center 23 sts in reverse stockinette st.
Next Row [RS]: Work 14 sts in patt as set, work Row 1 of Chart C, work rem 15 sts in patt as set. (6 sts increased -- 29 sts in center panel.)
Next Row [WS]: Work 14 sts in patt as set, work Row 2 of Chart C, work rem 15 sts in patt as set. (6 sts increased -- 35 sts in center panel, 64 sts on needle.)

[NOTE: To create the knotwork design, Chart C will be worked in the following sequence:
Work Rows 1 through 12 once.
Then work Rows 13 through 52 three times.
Then work Rows 13 through 34 once.
After Row 34, skip to row 53 and work Rows 53 through 65 once; this will bring you almost to the top of the shoulder. This will be done at the same time as all other shaping. It is advisable to print a copy of the chart to highlight or mark as needed, to help keep track of your place in the chart and repeat sequence.]

Work sleeve in patt as set until work measures 6 inches, ending with a WS row.
Increase Row [RS]: K1, m1, work in patt as set to last st, m1, k1.
*Work 9[7, 6, 5, 5] rows in patt as set. Work Increase Row.
Rep from * 9[12, 15, 17, 17] times more, working increased sts in patt as set in Chart A. 86[92, 98, 102, 102] sts.
Cont in patt as set until work measures 19[19, 19.5, 20, 20] inches, ending with a WS row.
Place all sts on holder.

Back
Using straight needles, CO 91[103, 107, 113, 124] sts.

Set Up Chart Placement for Bottom Rib

Size S Only: Row 1 [RS]: K1, Work Row 1 of Chart A (beg at Point B as indicated) to last st, k1.
Size M Only:
Row 1 [RS]: K1, [k2, p1] twice, work Row 1 of Chart A (beg at point C as indicated) to last 8 sts, [k2, p1] twice, k2.
Size L Only:
Row 1 [RS]: K1, [k2, p1] three times, work Row 1 of Chart A (beg at point C as indicated) to last 9 sts, [k2, p1] twice, k3.
Size XL Only:
Row 1 [RS]: K1, [k2, p1] four times, work Row 1 of Chart A (beg at point C as indicated) to last 12 sts, [k2, p1] three times, k3.
Size XXL Only
: Row 1 [RS]: K1, [k2, p1] twice, work Row 1 of Chart A (beg at point C as indicated) to last 7 sts, [k2, p1] twice, k1.

Cont in patt as set, with edge sts in garter st, until work measures 5 inches, ending with Row 4 or 8 of Chart A.
Cont in stockinette stitch until work measures 13[13, 13.5, 14, 14.5] inches, ending with a WS row. Place all sts on holder.

Left Front
NOTE: When working fronts of hoodie, references will be made to Right and Left sides of pieces. These orientations indicate sides of work when RS of work is facing you.

Using straight needles, CO 46[51, 55, 57, 63] sts.
Sizes S, M, L, XL only:
Row 1 [RS]: K1, work Row 1 of Chart A (beg at point indicated for your size) to last 2 sts (all sizes should end at point F), k2.
Row 2 [WS]: K2, work Row 2 of Chart A as set, k last st.

Size XXL only:
Row 1 [RS]: K3, p1, k2, p1, work Row 1 of Chart A (beg at point D) to last 2 sts (ending at point F), k2.
Row 2 [WS]: K2, work Row 2 of Chart A as set to last , k last st.


All Sizes:
Cont in patt as set, with 1 edge st at right side and 2 edge sts at left
side in garter st, until work measures 5 inches, ending with Row 4 or 8 of
Chart A.

NOTE: Left edge of this piece will form left front edge of hoodie -- do not join new balls of yarn at this edge.

Cont in stockinette stitch until work measures 13[13, 13.5, 14, 14.5] inches, ending with a WS row. Place all sts on holder.

Right Front
Using straight needles, CO 46[51, 55, 57, 63] sts.

Size S Only: Row 1 [RS]: K2, work Row 1 of Chart A (beg at point C as indicated) to last st (ending at point F), k1.
Size M Only:
Row 1 [RS]: K2, work Row 1 of Chart A (beg at point C as indicated) to last 5 sts, k2, p2, k1.
Size L Only: Row 1 [RS]: K2, work Row 1 of Chart A (beg at point C as indicated) to last 9 sts, work first 8 sts of Chart A (beg at point C), k1.
Size XL Only:
Row 1 [RS]: K2, work Row 1 of Chart A (beg at point C as indicated) to last 11 sts, work first 10 sts of Chart A (beg at point C), k1.
Size XXL Only:
Row 1 [RS]: K2, work Row 1 of Chart A (beg at point C as indicated) to last 17 sts, work Row 1 of Chart A between point C and point E, p1, k3.

All Sizes
Row 2 [WS]: K1, work Row 2 of Chart A as set, k last 2 sts.
Cont in patt as set, with 2 edge st at right side and 1 edge st at left side in garter st, until work measures 5 inches, ending with Row 4 or 8 of Chart A.
NOTE: Right edge of this piece will form right front edge of hoodie -- do not join new balls of yarn at this edge.
Cont in stockinette stitch until work measures 13[13, 13.5, 14, 14.5] inches, ending with a WS row.

Yoke
Joining Row: Using circular needle, work across Right Front to last 2 sts, k2tog (to eliminate selvedge st), place marker, k first 2 sts of one sleeve tog, k across Sleeve to last 2 sts, k2tog, place marker, k first 2 sts of Back tog, k across Back to last 2 sts, k2tog, place marker, k first 2 sts of second Sleeve tog, k across Sleeve to last 2 sts, k2tog, place marker, k first 2 sts of Left Front tog, k across Left Front. 347[381, 405, 423, 446] sts

Row 1 [WS]: K2, work in patt as set to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 2 [RS]: [Work in patt as set to 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k1, slip marker, k1, sl1, k1, psso] four times, work in patt to end.
Rep these 2 rows 20[20, 22, 24, 24] times more. 155 [189, 197, 199, 222] sts rem.
Work Row 1 once more.
AT THE SAME TIME
,
after Row 65 of Chart C has been worked on Sleeves, work center 23 sts in reverse stockinette stitch, then resume working Chart A over these sts (as in rib at bottom of Sleeve). These sts will be remain in patt until neck opening is reached.

Hood
Row 1 [RS]: K all sts, removing first and last markers (retaining markers at each side of Back).
Row 2 [WS]: K 15, p to last 15 sts, k15.
Row 3 [RS]: BO 13 sts, k to end.
Row 4 [WS]: BO 13 sts kwise (1 k st rem on right needle after sts bound off), k1, p to last 2 sts, k2, (This row sets the 2 st garter selvedge for the hood).
Row 5 [RS]: K2, sl1, k1, psso, k to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2. 127[161, 169, 171, 194] sts
Row 6: [WS]: Work in patt as set.

Lower Hood Shaping
Next Row [RS]: K to second marker. Turn work.
Next Row [WS]: Sl1, p2tog, psso, p to marker.
Next Row [RS]: Sl1, k2tog, psso, k to marker.
Rep last 2 rows 4 times more. On the last of these rows [RS], do not turn work; when edge of short row section is reached, pick up and k 5 sts along side of short row section, k to end of row. On the next row, p across all sts, picking up and purling 5 sts along rem side of short row section. 117[151, 159, 161, 184]sts
Next Row [RS]: K2, sl1, k1, psso, k to two sts before first marker, k2tog, slip marker, sl1, k1, psso, work to two sts before second marker, k2tog, slip marker, sl1, k1, psso, k to last four sts, k2tog, k2.
Next Row [WS]: Work in patt as set.
Rep these 2 rows 4 times more. 87[121, 129, 131, 154] sts
On last of these rows, remove markers.
Cont in patt as set until work measures 6 inches from BO edge at front of hood, ending with a RS row.
Next Row [WS]: K2, p41[56, 62, 63, 75], place marker, p to last 2 sts, k2.
Next Row [RS]: K to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, slip marker, k1, m1, k to end.
Next Row [WS]: Work in patt as set.
Work these 2 rows twice more.
Work even until work measures 14 inches from BO edge at front of hood.
Next Row: Work to 2 sts before marker, BO 4 sts, work to end.
Working two sides separately, BO 2 sts at centre edge of each piece 3 times.
BO rem sts.

[Key and chart C below have been revised]


FINISHING

Sew sleeve, side and centre hood seams. Weave in ends.
Block lightly.
Turning back garter st selvedge on front edges, sew in zipper.
Turn back and sew down garter st selvedge on inside front edge of hood.

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Jodi Green is an artist and university student living in Windsor,
Ontario. She's just come out of a 3-month knitting hiatus, self imposed
in order to finish her BFA studio work, and is chomping at the bit to
get back at the wool.

Find out why she looks so tired at her blog.