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earthfaire


by Ysolda S. Teague

I inherited the yarn for this cardigan from my grandfather. He was an amazingly skilled knitter. During the World War Two he was an RAF engineer and was taught to knit while recovering in hospital after injuring himself while working on a plane. He loved the combination of math and knitting and worked mainly highly complex Fair Isle designs.

He died when I was seven long before I learned to enjoy knitting (although I do remember making pom poms fom his leftover scraps). When my grandmother passed away last year I inherited two huge bags of his yarn that were found in her attic.

This beautiful vintage 3 ply was my favorite and luckily there was just enough to make this cardigan. The wrapover is my favorite style and is one that flatters most body types. The lace and deep ribbing at the waist were inspired by vintage patterns from the forties and fifties. And, if, like me, you have to deal with the unpredictability of the Scottish climate you can wear this all year round. The original yarn is a 3ply by Patons that was discontinued years ago but any fine 4 ply will make a good if slightly heavier 4 ply. I like the Jaeger Matchmaker I chose for the neckband and ties. It's fine and soft, comes in a wide variety of colors and is machine washable.

model: Ysolda S. Teague photos: Sheena Stewart and Angela Cassidy

SIZE
XS [S, M, L, XL, XXL] (shown in size S)
 
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Chest: 28[32, 36, 40, 44, 48] inches
Length: 17[17.5, 18, 19.5, 21, 22.5] inches
 

MATERIALS

Jaeger Matchmaker Merino 4 ply [100% merino wool; 200yds/183m per 50g skein]
[MC] Baltic Blue 740; 8 [8, 9, 9, 10, 10] skeins
[CC] Heather 701; 1 skein
Note: the original yarn is vintage. This substitution will give very similar results.

1 set US #1/2.25mm straight needles
1 set US #2/2.75mm straight needles
Stitch holder
Small tapestry needle
4 hooks and eyes OR 4 small buttons
GAUGE
28 sts/ 44 rows = 4 inches in lace pattern after blocking
PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations can be found here]

2x2 Rib (Worked over a multiple of 4 sts + 2)
Row 1 [RS]: [K2, p2] to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 2 [WS]: [P2, k2] to last 2 sts, p2.
Repeat these 2 rows for 2x2 Rib.

1x1 Rib (Worked over an odd number of sts)
Row 1 [RS]: [K1, p1] to last st, k1.
Row 2 [WS]: [P1, k1] to last st, p1.
Repeat these 2 rows for 1x1 Rib.

When working increases or decreases to shape pieces that are worked in Lace Pattern, be sure that every increase (yo) within the Lace Pattern is balanced by a corresponding decrease, and vice versa. It may be necessary at some points to work some stitches in stockinette st until sufficient stitches have been increased or decreased to keep the pattern balanced.
 
DIRECTIONS

Back
Using smaller needles and MC, CO 98[114, 126, 142, 154, 170] sts.

Work 10 rows in 2x2 Rib.

Next Row [RS]: K1, ssk, work in patt as set to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.

Work 7 rows in patt, maintaining 2 sts at each side in stockinette st.

Repeat these 8 rows 6[7, 6, 7, 6, 7] times more. 84[98, 112, 126, 140, 154] sts rem.

Cont in rib as set until work measures 6[6.25, 6.5, 6.75, 7, 7.25] inches, ending with a WS row.

Next Row [RS]: Switch to larger needles and k all sts.

P 1 row.

Next Row [RS]: K1, m1, begin working Lace Pattern from chart, beginning with 16th[1st, 10th, 11th, 12th, 13th] st of chart; work to last st of row, ending with 1st[16th, 7th, 6th, 5th, 4th] st of chart, m1, k1.

Work 7 rows in patt as set, incorporating new sts into Lace Pattern and maintaining edge sts in stockinette st.
Next Row [RS]: K1, m1, work to last st in Lace Pattern as set, m1, k1.
Repeat these 8 rows 5 times more. 98[112, 126, 140, 154, 168]

Cont in patt as set until work measures 10.5[11, 11.5, 12, 12.5, 13] inches, ending with a WS row.

Shape Armholes
BO 4[6, 6, 6, 8, 8] sts at beg of next 2 rows. 90[100, 114, 128, 138, 152] sts rem.
BO 0[0, 2, 4, 4, 6] sts at beg of next 2 rows. 90[100, 110, 120, 130, 140] sts rem.

Next Row [RS]: K1, ssk, work in patt to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Work 3 rows in patt as set.
Repeat these 4 rows 3 times more. 82[92, 102, 112, 122, 132] sts rem.

Cont in patt until work measures 15.5[16, 16.5, 18, 19.5, 21] inches when lace is very slightly stretched (to simulate light blocking), ending with a WS row.

Next Row [RS]: Work 26[28, 30, 34, 38, 42] sts in patt, place these sts just worked on st holder, BO 30[36, 42, 44, 46, 48] sts, work to end in patt. 26[28, 30, 34, 38, 42] sts on needle.

Left Shoulder
Next Row [WS]: P to last 3 sts, p2tog tbl, p1.
Next Row [RS]: K1, ssk, work in patt to end.
Repeat these 2 rows 4 times more.

BO rem 16[18, 20, 24, 28, 32] sts.

Right Shoulder
Place held sts on needle with WS facing, rejoin yarn.

Next Row [WS]: P1, p2tog, p to end.
Next Row [RS]: Work in patt to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Repeat these 2 rows 4 times more.

BO rem 16[18, 20, 24, 28, 32] sts.

Right Front
Using smaller needles and MC, CO 86[98, 114, 126, 142, 154] sts.
Work 10 rows in 2x2 Rib.

Next Row [RS]: Work in patt as set to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Work 7 rows in patt, maintaining 2 sts at each side in stockinette st.
Repeat these 8 rows 6 times more. 79[91, 107, 119, 135, 147] sts rem.

Cont in rib as set until work measures 6[6.25, 6.5, 6.75, 7, 7.25] inches, ending with a WS row.

Next Row [RS]: Switch to larger needles and k all sts.
P 1 row.

Notes:
Neckline Shaping and Side Shaping both begin on the next row. There is an ssk worked at the beginning of the first Side Shaping row; this is the same ssk that is worked at the beginning of the first Neckline Shaping row.
Read through pattern carefully before continuing!
Different sets of shaping are worked simultaneously.

Side Shaping
Next Row [RS]: K1, ssk, begin working Lace Pattern from chart, beginning with 1st st of chart; work to last st of row, ending with 9th[7th, 7th, 3rd, 3rd, 15th] st of chart, m1, k1.

Work 7 rows in patt as set, incorporating new st into Lace Pattern and maintaining edge sts in stockinette st.
Next Row [RS]: Work to last st in Lace Pattern as set, m1, k1.
Repeat these 8 rows 5 times more.
AT THE SAME TIME: Work Neckline Shaping as follows:
Next Row [RS]: K1, ssk, work in patt to end.
Next Row [WS]: P to last 3 sts, p2tog tbl, p1.
Repeat these 2 rows 16[22, 29, 32, 36, 40] times more.

Next Row [RS]: K1, ssk, work in patt to end.
P 1 row.
Repeat these 2 rows 17[15, 16, 14, 16, 14] times more.

Next Row [RS]: K1, ssk, work in patt to end.
Work 3 rows in patt.
Repeat these 4 rows 11[9, 6, 8, 8, 8] times more.
AT THE SAME TIME: When work measures 10.5[11, 11.5, 12, 12.5, 13] inches, ending with a RS row, shape armhole as follows:
Next Row [WS]: BO 4[6, 6, 6, 8, 8] sts, p to end.
Work 1 row in patt.
Next Row [WS]: BO 0[0, 2, 4, 4, 6] sts, p to end.

Next Row [RS]: Work in patt to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Work 3 rows in patt as set.
Repeat these 4 rows 3 times more.

When all shaping is completed, 16[18, 20, 24, 28, 32] sts rem.
When work measures same as back to shoulder, BO all sts.

Left Front
Using smaller needles and MC, CO 86[98, 114, 126, 142, 154] sts.
Work 10 rows in 2x2 Rib.

Next Row [RS]: K1, ssk, work in patt as set to end.
Work 7 rows in patt, maintaining 2 sts at each side in stockinette st.
Repeat these 8 rows 6 times more. 79[91, 107, 119, 135, 147] sts rem.

Cont in rib as set until work measures 6[6.25, 6.5, 6.75, 7, 7.25] inches, ending with a WS row.

Next Row [RS]: Switch to larger needles and k all sts.
P 1 row.

Notes:
Neckline Shaping and Side Shaping both begin on the next row. There is a k2tog worked at the end of the first Side Shaping row; this is the same k2tog that is worked at the end of the first Neckline Shaping row.
Read through pattern carefully before continuing!
Different sets of shaping are worked simultaneously.

Side Shaping
Next Row [RS]: K1, m1, begin working Lace Pattern from chart, beginning with 8th[10th, 10th, 14th, 14th, 2nd] st of chart; work to last 3 sts, ending with 16th st of chart, k2tog, k1.

Work 7 rows in patt as set, incorporating new sts into Lace Pattern and maintaining edge sts in stockinette st.
Next Row [RS]: K1, m1, work in Lace Pattern as set.
Repeat these 8 rows 5 times more.
AT THE SAME TIME: Work Neckline Shaping as follows:
Next Row [RS]: Work in patt to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Next Row [WS]: P1, p2tog, p to end.
Repeat these 2 rows 16[22, 29, 32, 36, 40] times more.

Next Row [RS]: Work in patt to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
P 1 row.
Repeat these 2 rows 17[15, 16, 14, 16, 14] times more.

Next Row [RS]: Work in patt to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Work 3 rows in patt.
Repeat these 4 rows 11[9, 6, 8, 8, 8] times more.
AT THE SAME TIME: When work measures 10.5[11, 11.5, 12, 12.5, 13] inches, ending with a WS row, shape armhole as follows:
Next Row [RS]: BO 4[6, 6, 6, 8, 8] sts, work in patt to end.
P 1 row.
Next Row [RS]: BO 0[0, 2, 4, 4, 6] sts, work in patt to end.

P 1 row.
Next Row [RS]: K1, ssk, work in patt to end.
Work 3 rows in patt as set.
Repeat these 4 rows 3 times more.

When all shaping is completed, 16[18, 20, 24, 28, 32] sts rem.
When work measures same as back to shoulder, BO all sts.

Sleeves (Make 2)
Using larger needles and MC, CO 52[56, 60, 68, 76, 84] sts.
K 6 rows.
Next Row [RS]: Begin working Lace Pattern from chart, beginning with 16th[14th, 12th, 16th, 12th, 16th] st of chart; work to last st of row, ending with 1st[3rd, 5th, 1st, 5th, 1st] st of chart.
Cont in Lace Pattern as set until work measures 5 inches, ending with a WS row.

Next Row [RS]: K1, m1, work to last st in Lace Pattern as set, m1, k1.

Work 9 rows in patt as set, incorporating new sts into Lace Pattern and maintaining edge sts in stockinette st.
Next Row [RS]: K1, m1, work to last st in Lace Pattern as set, m1, k1.
Repeat these 10 rows 12[12, 12, 12, 13, 13] times more. 80[84, 88, 96, 106, 114] sts.

Cont in patt until work measures 17.75[18, 18.25, 18.5, 18.75, 19] inches or desired length to underarm, ending with a WS row.

Shape Sleeve Cap
BO 4[6, 6, 6, 8, 8] sts at beg of next 2 rows. 72[72, 76, 84, 90, 98] sts rem.
BO 0[0, 2, 4, 4, 6] sts at beg of next 2 rows. 72[72, 72, 76, 82, 86] sts rem.

Work 3 rows in patt.
Next Row [RS]: K1, ssk, work in patt to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Repeat these 4 rows 2[2, 2, 4, 9, 12] times more. 66[66, 66, 66, 62, 60] sts rem.

P 1 row.
Next Row [RS]: K1, ssk, work in patt to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Repeat these 2 rows 18[18, 18, 16, 12, 11] times more. 28[28, 28, 32, 36, 36] sts rem.

BO 2[2, 2, 3, 4, 4] sts at beg of next 4 rows.
BO rem 20 sts.
FINISHING

Block pieces
Sew shoulder seams.
Sew sleeve seams and side seams using Mattress Stitch.

Sew sleeves into armholes.

Neckline Edging and Ties:
Using larger needles and CC, CO 9 sts.
Work in 1x1 Rib until work measures 76[80, 84, 88, 88, 92] inches.
BO all sts.

Make a second tie in the same way, measuring 18 inches.

Sew long tie to neckline edge, beginning at front edge of left front, continuing along left front edge, around back neck edge, and along front neckline edge, with remaining length of tie hanging loose at front edge of right front.

Sew short tie to left side seam, just above ribbing.

Hooks and eyes or buttons are used to fasten left front to inside of right side seam. If using buttons, button loops can be made by forming short crochet chains, long enough to fit around buttons.

Sew eyes or button loops along inside of right side seam, evenly spaced along length of ribbing.

Sew hooks or buttons along left front edge, corresponding to locations of eyes or button loops.
ABOUT THE DESIGNER

When I'm not knitting I make films, stay up too late and study literature at Edinburgh University which I love because reading novels counts as work.

Online I can be found here.
Pattern & images © 2005 Ysolda Teague. Contact Ysolda