by
Jody Prival
I never thought I'd end up
buying a strapless wedding dress... so, when I did,
I just had to create this lacy shrug with bell sleeves
to cover up a little bit. And it's something that
I'll actually be able to wear again any time I want
to add a little warmth to a spring evening outfit.
It even looks fantastic with jeans.
The lace pattern (adapted
from Barbara Walker) is very repetitious, and simpler
than it looks. The nature of this lace stitch makes
the finished product fully reversible. And because
the shrug is worked on circular needles, very little
finishing is required.
A note on sizing: arm length,
arm width, and back width can all be adjusted independently.
For wider arms, cast on more stitches (in a multiple
of 12) and work more pattern repeats per round. For
longer arms, do more pattern repeats in the elbow
section. For a wider back, do more pattern repeats
in the back section. If your back measurement lies
between two sizes, work the back to the longer measurement
and work the arms a bit short. You can then sew the
center slit closed by a couple of inches on either
side.
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model: Jody
Prival
photos: Rebecca
Cooney
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S [M, L, XL] (shown in size S with
M-length sleeves) |
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Back (underarm to underarm): 14[17, 20, 23] inches
Sleeve length (underarm to base of hand): 19[22, 22,
25] inches
Sleeve width (uppermost part of the arm): 12[14.5,
17, 19.5] inches
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Karabella Frost [30% cashmere, 30% silk, 40% viscose;
122 yd/112 m per 50g skein]; Color: White; 4[5, 7,
9] skeins
Note: This yarn is discontinued.
Suggested substitutes: Tahki Cotton Classic II or
Tahki Willow
16-inch US #7/4.5mm circular needle [or appropriate
size to get stated gauge below]
Optional for sizes S and
M only:
12-inch US#7/4.5mm circular needle
OR
1 set US#7/4.5mm double-point needles
Tapestry needle
Stitch markers
Optional: crystal or bead to dangle from back
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18 sts/24 rows = 4 inches in stockinette
stitch
1 repeat of circular patt=2.5 inches wide by 3 inches
long
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[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations can be found here]
LACE PATTERN
NOTE:
When the Lace Pattern is worked back and forth (Flat
Pattern), it has an odd number of rows. This means
that one repeat will begin on a RS row, and the next
will begin on a WS row. Every other repeat of the
pattern will be reversed from the repeat before it.
In order to duplicate this effect when working in
the round, the circular version of this stitch pattern
has twice as many rows in each repeat.
Circular Pattern (Worked
over a multiple of 12 sts):
Row
1: [P2tog, yo] around.
Rows 2-4: P all sts.
Row 5: [P4, yo, p1,
yo, p4, p3tog] around.
Row 6: [P3tog, p4, yo,
p1, yo, p4] around.
Row 7: [K4, yo, k1,
yo, k4, s1-k2tog-psso] around.
Row 8: [S1-k2tog-psso,
k4, yo, k1, yo, k4] around.
Row 9: [K4, yo, k1,
yo, k4, s1-k2tog-psso] around.
Row 10: [Yo, k2tog]
around.
Rows 11-13: K all sts.
Row 14: [S1-k2tog-psso,
k4, yo, k1, yo, k4] around.
Row 15: [K4, yo, k1,
yo, k4, s1-k2tog-psso] around.
Row 16: [P3tog, p4,
yo, p1, yo, p4] around.
Row 17: [P4, yo, p1,
yo, p4, p3tog] around.
Row 18: [P3tog, p4,
yo, p1, yo, p4] around.
Flat Pattern (Worked
over a multiple of 12 sts):
Row
1: [Yo, k2tog] to
end.
Row 2: P all sts.
Row 3: K all sts.
Row 4: P all sts.
Row 5: [S1-k2tog-psso,
k4, yo, k1, yo, k4] to end.
Rows 6 & 7: [P3tog,
p4, yo, p1, yo, p4] to end.
Row 8: [S1-k2tog-psso, k4, yo, k1, yo, k4]
to end.
Row 9: [P3tog, p4, yo,
p1, yo, p4] to end.
When
making decreases in a Lace Pattern round that involves
YOs, make the decrease by omitting the last (for right
sleeve) or first (for left sleeve) YO in the round.
When making a decrease in
a pattern round that does not involve YOs, work a
k2tog or p2tog, depending on whether the row is a
k row or a p row. Remove st markers as needed.
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*Using
16-inch circular needle, CO 84[96, 108, 120]
sts. Place a marker every 12 sts, using a
different color to mark the beginning of a
round. Join to begin working in the round,
being careful not to twist.
Right Side
Sleeve: Wrist to Elbow
Sizes M, L, XL Only:
Beg with Row
1, work 9 rounds in Circular Pattern.
All Sizes Continue Here:
Beg with row 10,
work in Circular Pattern, decreasing 1 st in
last repeat every round until 3 full repeats have
been decreased. (See Pattern Notes re. making decreases
in Lace Pattern). 36[45, 45, 45] rounds have been
worked, 48[60, 72, 84] sts rem. (For sizes S and
M, switch to shorter circular or Double-point needles
as needed).
Work 9[9, 9, 27] more rows
in Circular Pattern without further shaping. 2.5[3,
3, 4] full 18-row repeats have been worked.
Sleeve: Elbow to Shoulder
Round
1: Work Row
1 of Circular Pattern. Place a new marker on
right needle, m1.
Rounds 2-49: Continue
working in Circular Pattern, increasing 1 st between
final set of markers every 6 rounds.
Rounds 50-52: Continue
working in Circular Pattern, increasing 1 st between
final set of markers each round. One full 12-st
repeat of Circular Pattern has been added. 60[72,
84, 96] sts.
Round 53: Work next
row of Circular Pattern. Place a new marker on right
needle, m1.
Round 54: Continue
working in Circular Pattern, increasing 1 st between
final set of markers.
Rounds 55-59:
Continue working in Circular Pattern, increasing
2 sts between final set of markers. One more
full 12-st repeat of Circular Pattern has
been added. 72[84, 96, 108] sts.*
Shoulder
and Back
Round 60: P3tog,
p4, yo, p1, yo, p4, m1, turn. Piece
will now be worked back and forth (Flat Pattern).
Next Row [WS]: K1, work Row 6 of Flat
Pattern to end of row, m1.
Keeping edge sts in garter st, work Rows
7-9 of Flat Pattern.
Keeping edge sts in garter st, work 9-row
repeat of Flat Pattern 4[5, 6, 7] times. Work
Rows 1 & 2 once more. Place all
sts on holder.
Left Side
Sleeve:
Work
from * to * as for right sleeve, EXCEPT
work increase and decrease sections at beg
of round instead of end of round.
Round 60: [P3tog, p4, yo,
p1, yo, p4] 5[6, 7, 8] times, m1, turn. Piece
will now be worked back and forth (Flat Pattern).
Next Row [WS]: K1, work Row 7
of Flat Pattern to end of row, m1.
Keeping edge sts in garter st, work Rows
8 & 9 of Flat Pattern.
Keeping edge sts in garter st, work 9-row
repeat of Flat Pattern 4[5, 6, 7] times.
Work Rows 1 & 2 once more. Place
all sts on holder.
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Graft
together the two sections using Kitchener stitch (see
photo). Depending on how many pattern repeats you
did in the back section, the mid-back may appear either
knitted or purled. Weave in ends and block, taking
care to stretch the back section well so that it does
not pucker (note how the grafted area is stretched).
When blocking, pin the edges of the slit closed so
that it will lie flat.
Optional: hang a bead or
crystal from the center of the bottom edge - not only
is this a nice detail, but it helps identify which
way the shrug is meant to be worn.
Wear, and knock everybody's
socks off.
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Jody
lives in Northern California and knits in between
job-hunting and wedding planning.
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Pattern & images
© 2005 Jody Prival. Contact Jody |
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