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It was senior year of college, and my heart was broken. I needed something to keep my mind off the whole debacle. Writing a thesis, carrying a full course load, and working a part time job wasn't enough. I couldn't afford yarn, so I bought a sweater from the thrift store and unraveled it. Then I pulled out my indispensable (and tragically out of print) The Knitter's Guide to Sweater Design and designed this. By the time I had knitted 3 of them, I was ready to move on - and I had the flirty summer wear to go with my new attitude!

This shirt is great for so many reasons. It is designed to fit you, and the yarn you love. I have made versions out of heavyweight cotton and fine-enough-to-drive-you-crazy silk. I have made versions for friends who are quite a different shape than I am. It’s quick to knit, open to endless variations, and easy, easy to wear: a straight body, shoulders that fit, and tiny cap sleeves.

model: Suzyn Jackson photo: Alvaro J. Gonzalez

SIZE
You
 
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Please don't be intimidated by these calculations. They're really very simple, though a calculator will make the job easier. It's all about thirds, and the trick is dividing by three and coming up with whole numbers (since knitting a third of a stitch is not worth the effort). Use a calculator to determine the third, then use the following rounding guidelines, depending on the numbers after the decimal point:

Third

Strategy

Example

a

b

c

?.00

You're cool

9/3 = 3

3

3

3

?.33

Put larger number in middle

10/3 = 3.33

3

4

3

?.66

Put smaller number in middle

11/3 = 3.66

4

3

4

Start by filling in this chart. Then, fill the blanks in the pattern from this chart.

Gauge

a

b

c

A

Chest measurement (+1-2 inches ease, if you want)/2 x gauge

 

B

Shoulder measurement (tip to tip) x gauge

 

C

Sleeve measurement (Put hand on hip. Hold one end of measuring tape where you like armholes to start. Wrap around arm and back to same point) x gauge

 

D

Armhole shaping: (A-B)/2, in thirds

       

E

Shoulder shaping: B in thirds

       

F

Shoulder shaping 2: Ea in thirds

       

G

Neck shaping: Eb in thirds

       

H

Neck shaping 2: Ga in thirds

       

I

Neck shaping 3: Ea+Ha+Hb

       

J

Neck shaping 4: Gb+Hc+Hc

       

K

Sleeve shaping: C-Da-Da, in thirds

       

L

Sleeve shaping 2: Ka in thirds

       

SAMPLE CHART
If you're uncertain about the chart, here's one already filled out:

 

Gauge

4 st/in

a

b

c

A

Chest measurement (+1-2 inches ease, if you want)/2 x gauge

36/2x4=72

B

Shoulder measurement (tip to tip) x gauge

14x4=56

C

Sleeve measurement (Put hand on hip. Hold one end of measuring tape where you like armholes to start. Wrap around arm and back to same point) x gauge

15x4=60

D

Armhole shaping: (A-B)/2, in thirds

(72-56)/2=8 8/3=2.66

3

2

3

E

Shoulder shaping: B in thirds

56/3=18.66

19

18

19

F

Shoulder shaping 2: Ea in thirds

19/3=6.33

6

7

6

G

Neck shaping: Eb in thirds

18/3=6

6

6

6

H

Neck shaping 2: Ga in thirds

6/3=2

2

2

2

I

Neck shaping 3: Ea+Ha+Hb

19+2+2=23

23

   

J

Neck shaping 4: Gb+Hc+Hc

6+2+2=10

10

   

K

Sleeve shaping: C-Da-Da, in thirds

60-3-3=54 55/3=18

18

18

18

L

Sleeve shaping 2: Ka in thirds

18/3=6

6

6

6

MATERIALS

Whatever yarn you've got a fair amount of. If you're going to unravel something from the thrift store, carefully examine it before buying. It should be full-fashioned, and the seams should look a little like yours would. If the seams are heavily bound (like a t-shirt), and there are no decreases around the arms, the knitted fabric was probably cut, and all you're going to get is hundreds of 2 yd lengths of yarn.

1 pair needles to go with yarn
1 spare needle same size
2 stitch holders or large safety pins

 

GAUGE

Whatever you make - not too stiff, not too loose. Rows don't matter.
Write stitch gauge here: ______ st/1 inch

 
DIRECTIONS

Back
CO A_____ sts.
Work even in K1,P1 rib for as long as you like. I prefer about 3-4 rows, but several inches could be cool, too.
Work even in St st for a while. Occasionally, hold up your needle in your armpit at the point where you like armholes to start, to see if it's long enough. For a demure look, it should pass the top of your jeans. For a subtly sexy look, it should brush the top of your jeans, allowing for flashes of skin as you move. It should at least pass the bottom of your bra.

Armhole Shaping
BO Da_____ sts at beg of next 2 rows.
Dec 1 st each end of every row until Db_____ sts have been dec'd.
Dec 1 st each end of every other row until Dc_____ sts have been dec'd.
Work even in St st for a while. Hold your knitting up to your chest and hold the corner of the armhole shaping at the point where you like armholes to start. When the needle reaches the front of your shoulder (not the top) work shoulder shaping as follows:
RS: Work to Fa_____ sts before end. Turn.
WS: Sl 1 st. Work to Fa_____ sts before end. Turn.
RS: Sl 1 st. Work to Fb_____ sts before previous turn. Turn.
WS: Sl 1 st. Work to Fb_____ sts before previous turn. Turn.
RS: Sl 1 st. Work to end of row.
Work even until you can hold up your knitting as described above, and the needle hits the top of your shoulder.
Sl all sts onto spare needle and set aside.

Front
Work through armhole shaping as for back. When you hold up your knitting and the needle reaches your collarbone work neck shaping as follows:

Neck Shaping
RS: Work I_____ sts. Slip J_____ sts onto a holder. Join a new ball and work to end of row.
Dec 1 st each side of neck opening every row until Hb_____ sts have been dec'd.
Dec 1 st each side of neck opening every other row until Ha_____ sts have been dec'd.
Work both sides until you can hold up your knitting as described above, and the needle hits the top of your shoulder. Side and armhole edges of back and front should match.

First Shoulder Seam
WS of front: Hold front and back (on spare needle) facing each other. Work a 3 needle BO and break yarn.
Slip other front shoulder sts onto stitch holder.

Neck Ribbing
With the needle that has the rem back sts on it, pick up approx 1 st per row down the front neck, pick up the sts from stitch holder, then pick up approx 1 st per row up the other side.
Work in K1,P1 rib around front neck and Eb_____ sts across back, for a few rows.
BO in rib. Do not break yarn.

Second Shoulder Seam
With needle that has remaining back on it, pick up approx 1 st per row up side of ribbing.
Slip front shoulder st onto another needle, and pick up approx 1 st per row up other side of ribbing. Sl last ribbing BO st onto appropriate needle. Both needles should have the same number of stitches.
Join second shoulder seam as first shoulder seam, using yarn from end of neck ribbing.

Sleeves
I prefer to work both sleeves at once so it is easier to shape them identically.
CO C_____ sts. With a different ball, CO C_____ sts again.
Work even in K1,P1 rib for as long as you like. Could be the same as waist ribbing, could be different.
BO Da_____ st at beg of next 2 rows.
Dec 1 st each end of every row until La_____ sts have been dec'd.
Dec 1 st each end of every other row until Lb_____ sts have been dec'd.
Dec 1 st each end of every row until Lc_____ sts have been dec'd.
BO remaining Kb_____ sts.

 
FINISHING

Match up center st of each sleeve with a shoulder seam. Sew sleeves to armholes, easing as necessary.
Sew up side seams.
Weave in ends.
Toss on and flirt.

VARIATIONS

Double-stitch embroider your initial, Laverne-style
Knit the occasional WS row for texture
Use a contrasting color for the ribbing
Add stripes, intarsia spots, or fair isle
Work in cables (include cables in your gauge swatch!)

...Whatever your heart desires!

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Suzyn Jackson can knit and read at the same time, which comes in handy. She also writes from time to time. Her article "Knit-Surfing the Subway" will appear in an upcoming knitting anthology from Voyageur Press.

She heartily recommends that if you ever find a copy of The Knitter's Guide to Sweater Design by Carmen Michelson and Mary-Ann Davis, you buy it and never let it go.