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   by 
                          Lizzi Jennings    This is what happened when I felt 
                            like knitting an aran and a shawl at the same time! The shawl is knit from the bottom 
                            up, doing the two side borders along with the body, 
                            then the third border is sideways-knit across the 
                            top. The corners are tasselled both because 
                            I like the look and because I'm terrible at charting 
                            out mitered corners! |   
                        |   model: Lizzi 
                            Jennings  photo: Martha 
                            Jennings |   
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                        | One |   
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                        | Width [across 
                            top cable border]: 56 inches/142cmDepth [not including tassel]: 30 inches/76cm
 Border width: 4 inches/10cm
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                        |  [MC] Caron Simply Soft [100% acrylic; 330 yds/6oz. 
                            skein]; color: 9710; 3 skeins
  1 29-inch [or longer] US #9/5.5mm circular needle 
  Cable needle 
  One crochet hook, size G
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                        | 14 sts and 28 rows 
                            = 4" in garter stitch Notes on yarn substitution: 
                            If you substitute wool or some other natural fiber 
                            for acrylic, it is important that you match the gauge 
                            with a washed and blocked swatch if you want precisely 
                            these proportions, as wool tends to grow in the washing 
                            process while acrylic does not. If you match the gauge 
                            without washing your swatch first, then your finished 
                            shawl will likely be somewhat larger than the given 
                            measurements. |   
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                        | SPECIAL ABBREVIATIONS C2L [cross 2 left]: slip 2 sts onto 
                            cable needle [cn], hold in front of work, p1, k2 from 
                            cn. C2R [cross 2 right]: slip 1 st onto 
                            cn, hold in back of work, k2, p1 from cn. FC4 [front cross 4]: slip 2 sts 
                            onto cn, hold in front of work, k2, k2 from cn. BC4 [back cross 4]: slips 2 sts 
                            onto cn, hold in back of work, k2, k2 from cn. CABLE PATTERN [over 18 sts] Row 1 [RS]: p1, k2, p4, BC4, p4, 
                            k2, p1.Row 2 and all other WS rows: k all knit sts and p 
                            all purl sts.
 Row 3: p1, C2L, p2, C2R, C2L, p2, C2R, p1.
 Row 5: p2, C2L, C2R, p2, C2L, C2R, p2.
 Row 7: p3, FC4, p4, BC4, p3.
 Row 9: p2, C2R, C2L, p2, C2R, C2L, p2.
 Row 11: p1, C2R, p2, C2L, C2R, p2, C2L, p1.
 Row 13: p1, k2, p4, FC4, p4, k2, p1.
 Row 15: as row 3.
 Row 17: as row 5.
 Row 19: p3, BC4, p4, FC4, p3.
 Row 21: as row 9.
 Row 23: as row 11.
 Row 24: k all knit sts and p all purl sts.
 Repeat Rows 1-24 for pattern. |   
                        
                        
                        
                        
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                            CO 33 sts. 
                              K 4 rows. Foundation row [RS]: k2, *p1, 
                              inc 1 by knitting into front 
                              and back of next st, p4, inc 1 twice, p4, inc 1, 
                              p1,* YO, k1, YO, rep * to *, end k2. Next row [WS]: k2, *k1, p2, k4, 
                              p4, k4, p2, k1*, k3, rep * to *, end k2. Begin cable pattern [cab patt] 
                              row [RS]: k2, work row 1 of cab patt, YO, k3, YO, 
                              work row 1 of cab patt again, end k2. Next row [WS]: k2, work row 2 
                              of cab patt, k5, work row 2 of cab patt again, end 
                              k2. Continue working outside 2 sts 
                              for garter st selvedge on both edges. Inside that, 
                              work the 18 st cab patt rows in sequence as described 
                              above. Between the 20 stitch wide borders 
                              on either side, increase 2 sts on every RS row. 
                              [eg. k2, work 18 sts in cab patt, YO, k across to 
                              last 20 sts, YO, work 18 sts in cab patt, k2]. Work 
                              borders in cab patt on WS rows, but knit 
                              across central triangular panel without making increases. Work until you have completed 
                              rows 1-24 of the cab patt a total of 7 times, then 
                              work rows 1 and 2 once more. RS should be facing 
                              for next row [171 sts in central panel; 211 total 
                              sts]. If you're off by a few stitches, increase 
                              or decrease as necessary in next row. Next row [RS]: k2, *k1, k2tog, 
                              k4, k2tog twice, k4, k2tog, k1*, k across center 
                              section [171 stitches], rep * to *, end k2. K 1 row. End Cable Bands Row 1: BO 16, k across rem sts. Row 2: BO 16, k across rem sts, 
                              DO NOT TURN. 
 Begin Top Cable Border Without breaking yarn, CO 19 sts. 
                              Turn. Foundation Row 1 [RS]: k19; turn, 
                              leaving rem sts unworked. Foundation Row 2 [WS]: k19. Foundation Row 3 [RS]: k2, p1, 
                              m1, p4, m1 twice, p4, ml, p1, YO, ssk, knit rem 
                              border st tog with 1 st from the body of the shawl 
                              [k2tog]. Foundation row 4 [WS]: sl 1, p2, 
                              work row 24 of cab patt across next 18 sts, end 
                              k2. Double Dec Row[RS]: k2, work row 
                              1 of cab patt, YO, ssk, k rem border st tog with 
                              2 sts from shawl body [k3tog]. Border Row 1, and all other WS 
                              rows: sl 1, p2, work row 2 [or appropriate row] 
                              of cab patt, end k2. Border Row 2 [Dec Row]: k2, work 
                              row 3 [or appropriate row] of cab patt, YO, ssk, 
                              k2tog [1 border st and 1 shawl body st]. Continue working Work these 24 
                              border rows a total of 13 times, always working 
                              Border Rows 1 & 2 across shawl. Every 24th row, 
                              Work the Double Dec Row [k3tog] instead of Border 
                              Row 2 [k2tog]. There are 25 sts remaining [2 body 
                              sts, 23 border sts]. Work Border Row 2 once more 
                              [1 body st remaining]. Next row [WS]: sl 1, k3, k2tog, 
                              k4, k2tog twice, k4, k2tog, k3. Next row [RS]: k17, k2tog [all 
                              body sts bound off by border]. K 1 row. BO all sts, leaving a 
                              6 inch-tail. There will be a small gap where the 
                              final BO row doesn't attach to the body, because 
                              there are no sts left to work together Ü Eliminate 
                              this gap by running the tail through the top of 
                              the last bound-off st of the left cable band, then 
                              back again through the final bound-off st of the 
                              top border, before weaving the end in. |   
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                               |   
                        
                        
                        | Note: If substituting 
                            wool or another natural fiber for acrylic, I recommend 
                            blocking the shawl before making and attaching the 
                            tassels, as blocking the piece with the tassels in 
                            place may alter the hang of the tassels. Tassels I wound the yarn 15 times lengthwise 
                            around a videocassette, then cut it at both ends to 
                            get 30 strands, which I folded in half to make one 
                            tassel. If you prefer longer or shorter tassels, adjust 
                            the length of the strands accordingly; if you want 
                            a thinner or fatter tassel, use fewer or more strands.
 Attaching tassels  This is a matter of judgment and 
                            your crochet tension, so don°t be afraid to undo your 
                            work and try again if the tassel doesn°t hang well. Lower point: Join yarn to one of 
                            the outer corners of the bands, chain for 4 inches, 
                            work one sc around the yarn holding the top of the 
                            tassel together, chain for 4 inches, join with an 
                            sc to opposite outer corner. Left and right points: work the 
                            same as lower point, but for 4.5 inches instead of 
                            4 inches. Weave in all ends.    |   
                        
                        
                        |   Lizzi 
                            is just beginning to dip her toes in the realm of 
                            designing, after being inspired by patterns from her 
                            fellow bloggers and knitting-forum members.
 She currently lives in Michigan, 
                            where the winter cold has had her knitting since the 
                            age of eight. You can visit her at her weblog, 
                            where she chronicles her addiction to knitting, her 
                            constant frustration with working in the fast-food 
                            industry - which she hopes to get out of soon! - and 
                            her love of sci-fi/fantasy books and movies. But mostly 
                            the addiction to knitting. |   
                        | Pattern & images 
                          © 2003 Elizabeth Jennings. Contact Lizzi. |  |