INTRODUCTION

Hexen Haxen

by Kate Atherley

Cabled socks. Inspired by a stitch pattern I found in a book of Austrian Twisted stitch patterns, whose name translates to "Witch's Legs", I created a sock that might be appropriate for Hallowe'en. Or just for autumn.

To keep the knitting interesting, the two socks are subtly different – the left sock has right-leaning central cables, the right sock has left-leaning central cables, and the pattern is slightly offset on the leg.

There's some clever stuff going on here: because the stitch pattern is a large repeat, and doesn't lend itself easily to grading, I've created four sizes from two stitch counts by using different needle sizes for the legs.

For all sizes, the heel flap, heel turn and foot are worked on the same size (smaller) needle to create a long-wearing sock-appropriate fabric.

If you're a sock customizer, you can absolutely use a different heel turn, but I strongly recommend a flap-and-gusset heel. The stitch pattern takes away a little of the stretchiness of the fabric and a short-row type of heel won't fit the vast majority of feet.

I've worked the heel flap in a ribbing pattern – why not! If you prefer, you can work a slipped stitch reinforcement pattern. I tend not to do this – at least not there – because that's not where I wear out my socks. I wear them out on the underside of the heel, and therefore I've worked the reinforcement pattern there. And even if you're not worried about wear, it's extra-comfy!

As always, the sock uses my particular favorite no-graft toe. If you really feel that you need to close the toe with grafting, stop decreasing when about a third of the stitches remain – ensuring you have the same number of stitches on both instep and sole.

model: Kate Atherley

photos: Amy Singer

SIZE

XS[S, M, L]

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Foot circumference: 6.75[7.25, 7.75, 8.25] inches/ 17[18.5, 19.5, 21] cm
Leg length: 6[6.5, 6, 6.5] inches/ 15[16, 15, 16] cm
Foot length: adjustable to preference

Choose a size with approximately 1 inch-1.25 inch/2.5-3 cm negative ease in the foot circumference.

MATERIALS

Yarn
Regia Premium Merino Yak [58% wool, 28% nylon, 14% yak; 437yd/400m per 100 g ball]; color: 7506, 1 ball

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below - every knitter's gauge is unique]

For all sizes:
US #1.5/2.5mm needles for small circumference in the round: DPNs, 1 long circular for magic loop, or 2 short circulars, as you prefer

For second and fourth sizes only:
US #2/2.75mm needles for small circumference in the round: DPNs, 1 long circular for magic loop, or 2 short circulars, as you prefer

Notions
cable needle (optional – if you prefer you can work the cables without a cable needle)
yarn needle

GAUGE

32 sts/48 rounds = 4 inches/10 cm in stockinette stitch on smaller needle
30 sts/46 rounds = 4 inches/10 cm in stockinette stitch on larger needle

PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

2/1LC: Slip next 2 sts to cable needle and hold in front of work; k1, then k2 from cable needle.
2/1RC: Slip next st to cable needle and hold in back of work; k2 then k1 from cable needle.
2/1LPC: Slip next 2 sts to cable needle and hold in front of work; p1, then k2 from cable needle.
2/1RPC: Slip next st to cable needle and hold in back of work; k2 then p1 from cable needle.
2/2LC: Slip next 2 sts to cable needle and hold in front of work; k2, then k2 from cable needle.
2/2RC: Slip next 2 sts to cable needle and hold in back of work; k2 then k2 from cable needle.

CHARTS

DIRECTIONS

Cuff – Both Socks
For First and Third sizes, use the smaller needles.
For Second and Fourth sizes, use the larger needles.

Using your favorite stretchy method (Long Tail or German Twisted), and appropriate size needles, CO 62[62, 76, 76] sts. Distribute sts across needles as you prefer and join for working in the round.

Upper Leg round: Work Leg Pattern Chart for appropriate size foot and size.

Work as set until you have completed Chart Round 37, then repeat Chart rows 14-37 once more. Continue, working Chart Rows 38-57.
Note: For both Left and Right Legs, the chart stops before the end of the round. This position is the end of the heel flap stitches.
The heel flap will be worked over the 29[29, 43, 43] sts just worked. Rearrange your sts as you prefer.
The Right heel flap sts cross the start of the round.

Heel Flap:
For Second and Fourth sizes, change to smaller needles.
Turn so that WS is facing

Heel Flap Row 1 [WS]: Work appropriate Heel Flap chart across 29[29, 43, 43] sts.

Continue, working chart as set, repeating chart Rows 2-3 until you have worked 26[30, 30, 34] ] rows total, ending with a WS row.

Heel Turn – Both Socks:
Note: The stitches on the center of the heel turn are worked in a reinforcement slipped-stitch pattern.

Heel turn row 1 [RS]: K 10[10, 14, 14] , [sl1, k1] 4[4, 7, 7] times, sl1, ssk, turn.
Heel turn row 2 [WS]: Sl 1 pwise wyif, p 9[9, 15, 15] , p2tog, turn.
Heel turn row 3 [RS]: Sl 1 pwise wyib, [sl1, k1] 4[4, 7, 7] times, sl1, ssk, turn.
Heel turn row 4 [WS]: Sl 1 pwise wyif, p 9[9, 15, 15] , p2tog, turn.

Repeat Heel turn rows 3-4 until all heel stitches have been worked. 11[11, 17, 17] sts rem.

Gusset
Gusset setup round 1: With RS facing, knit across 11[11, 17, 17] rem heel sts. Using slipped sts at end of heel flap as a guide, pick up and knit 15[17, 17, 19] sts along first side of heel flap. Work across instep as per row 1 of appropriate Instep chart. Using slipped sts at end of heel flap as a guide, pick up and knit 15[17, 17, 19] sts along second side of heel flap. K 6[6, 9, 9] to center of heel. 74[78, 84, 88] sts.

This position is the new start of round. Rearrange sts or place a marker as you prefer; noting that start and end of instep will be adjusted in the next round.

Gusset setup round 2, LEFT SOCK ONLY: K 5[5, 8, 8] , k tbl 14[16, 16, 18] - this takes you to the last of the picked up sts – slip this stitch to the instep. Starting at this point, work across instep as per Rnd 2 of Instep – Left Sock chart, noting that the last 2 sts come from the picked up sts. K tbl 13[15, 15, 17] , k 6[6, 9, 9] .

Gusset setup round 2, RIGHT SOCK ONLY: K 5[5, 8, 8] , k tbl 13[15, 15, 17] - this takes you to the last 2 of the picked up sts – slip these stitches to the instep. Starting at this point, work across instep as per Rnd 2 of Instep – Right Sock chart, noting that the last st come from the picked up sts. K tbl 13[15, 15, 17] , k 6[6, 9, 9] .

Start of round and start and end of instep are now set. Rearrange sts as you prefer.

Gusset round 1: Knit to 2 sts before instep, k2tog; work across instep in patt as set; ssk, knit to end of rnd. 2 sts decreased.
Gusset round 2: Knit to instep; work across instep in patt as set; knit to end of rnd.

Repeat Gusset rounds 1-2 7[7, 8, 8] more times. 58[62, 66, 70] sts.

Foot
Work even in pattern as set, repeating Rnds 2-25 of the appropriate Instep Chart.

Read before you proceed:
It's not crucial, but it looks best – and will match the samples as photographed – if you arrange to end the foot patterning after a central cable turn.

Once the foot measures approximately 2.75[3, 3, 3] inches/ 7[7.5, 7.5, 7.5] cm, continue in pattern until you have completed the next central cable pattern row – a Row 6 or 18 of the Left Sock Pattern, or Rows 7 or 19 of the Right Sock pattern. Once that is done, repeat ONLY the following non-cable/ribbing row – 7 or 19 for Left Sock, 8 or 20 for Right Sock – on the Instep, until the sock measures 2[2, 2, 2] inches/ 5[5, 5, 5] cm short of desired finished length.

If you prefer, just continue the chart until you hit the required length for the toe and let that set the toe ribbing.

Toe
To set up for toe decrease, slip the first and last sts of the instep, the 2 purls – to the sole. 32 sts for instep for all sizes, 26[30, 34, 38] sts for the sole.

Decreases will be worked differently for all sizes. For the First and Second sizes, decreases will be worked first only on the instep, to equalize the sole and instep. Once the two have the same stitch count, you'll work full decrease rounds.

For the Third and Fourth sizes, the first few decrease rounds will have double decreases worked on the sole.

As you work the decreases, maintain the knit/purl pattern on the central part of the toe.

First Size only:
Instep-only decrease round: Knit to instep; k1, ssk, work in knit/purl pattern as set to 3 sts before end of instep, k2tog, k1; knit to end of round. 2 sts decreased.
Work 3 rounds even in pattern.

Work an Instep-only decrease round followed by 2 even rounds twice. 52 sts.

Full decrease round: Knit to 3 sts before instep, k2tog, k1; k1, ssk, work in knit/purl pattern as set to 3 sts before end of instep, k2tog, k1; k1, ssk, knit to end of round. 4 sts decreased.
Work 1 round even in pattern.
Repeat the last 2 rounds twice more. 40 sts.

Work a Full decrease round every round until 8 sts rem. Cut yarn and pull through final sts to secure.

Second Size only:
Instep-only decrease round: Knit to instep; k1, ssk, work in knit/purl pattern as set to 3 sts before end of instep, k2tog, k1; knit to end of round. 2 sts decreased.
Work 3 rounds even in pattern. 60 sts.

Full decrease round: Knit to 3 sts before instep, k2tog, k1; k1, ssk, work in knit/purl pattern as set to 3 sts before end of instep, k2tog, k1; k1, ssk, knit to end of round. 4 sts decreased.
Work 2 rounds even in pattern.
Repeat the last 3 rounds once more. 52 sts.

Work a Full decrease round followed by 1 even round 3 times. 40 sts.

Work a Full decrease round every round until 8 sts rem. Cut yarn and full through final sts to secure.

Third Size only:
Initial decrease round: Knit to 4 sts before instep, k3tog, k1; k1, ssk, work in knit/purl pattern as set to 3 sts before end of instep, k2tog, k1; k1, sssk, knit to end of round. 60 sts.
Work 3 rounds even.

Full decrease round: Knit to 3 sts before instep, k2tog, k1; k1, ssk, work in knit/purl pattern as set to 3 sts before end of instep, k2tog, k1; k1, ssk, knit to end of round. 4 sts decreased.
Work 2 rounds even.
Repeat the last 3 rounds once more. 52 sts.

Work a Full decrease round followed by 1 even round 3 times. 40 sts.

Work a Full decrease round every round until 8 sts rem. Cut yarn and full through final sts to secure.

Fourth Size only:
Initial decrease round: Knit to 4 sts before instep, k3tog, k1; k1, ssk, work in knit/purl pattern as set to 3 sts before end of instep, k2tog, k1; k1, sssk, knit to end of round. 6 sts decreased.
Work 3 rounds even.

Work an Initial decrease round followed by 2 even rounds twice. 52 sts.

Full decrease round: Knit to 3 sts before instep, k2tog, k1; k1, ssk, work in knit/purl pattern as set to 3 sts before end of instep, k2tog, k1; k1, ssk, knit to end of round. 4 sts decreased.
Work 1 round even.
Repeat the last 2 rounds twice more. 40 sts.

Work only Full decrease rounds until 8 sts rem. Cut yarn and pull through final sts to secure.

FINISHING

Wash to block and weave in ends. Sock blockers aren't necessary, the socks will stretch out nicely on your feet.

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Kate is rather a fan of interesting socks that fit well. Did you know she wrote a whole book about it?

You can see more of her work at kateatherley.com, and on Ravelry.

Pattern & images © 2019 Kate Atherley.