Ever since the very first time I set eyes on Kathryn
Alexander’s
work with energized singles I’ve been smitten. She knits
with singles fresh off of the bobbin,
letting the energy of the unblocked single
bend and twist knitted stitches. It’s gorgeous and
sculptural.
I love the look of her work, but her style of spinning and knitting
is not my style of spinning and knitting – she works with
Shetland spun worsted and knit fine. I spin woolen and am a seriously
slow knitter, so don’t like to work at less than 4-5 stitches
per inch.
I wanted to do something very simple that explores the basic
slant of the knitted stitches. Singles
that are spun Z [clockwise] lean to the
right and singles that are spun S [counter
clockwise] lean to the left. Nothing's
easier than a shawl, one half leans left
and one half leans right.
I spun and knit a shawlette using Z-spun singles for the right
side and S-spun singles for the left
side, alternating the two singles for
the spine of the shawl to balance their
energy and to keep
it from leaning in one direction.
The stitches leaned and undulated, creating a visual energy
that balanced [or blocked] yarns don’t. The flow of the
stitches works great with the fiber I
selected, Briar Rose, which has a gorgeous
tonal roll of color.
I made an interesting discovery while blocking the small shawl
[shown above]. When I finished knitting
it, I noticed that the shape of the shawl
was more of a diamond than a triangle.
As I was pinning to spray block, the
shape bloomed. I intended to barely block
the piece, keeping the lean of the stitches,
but providing a triangle shape by opening
the yarnovers. The
energized stitches not only leaned but
they pushed out, creating a curved shape
and making the tips curve inward like
ram’s
horns. It looks like curvy diamond rather
than a triangle.
Because I just can’t leave something alone, I wondered
what would happen if I added stripes
to a shawl in a single that leaned in
the opposite direction [an S-single
stripe on the right side and Z-single
on the left]. I worked the stripes in
a different color to make the effect
stand out further. I
thought the stripes would create a clean
visual break, leaning in the opposite
direction, creating a zig zag.
But I was wrong and I’m glad I was.
This second piece has tension between the two types of stitch
direction that looks like a visual vibration.
It’s much
less of a sharply shaped shawl, looking
more organic and crafted by hand.
Fiber: [MC]
Briar
Rose Fibers [100% BFL ; top ; color:
Gold/orange; 4 ounces [2 ounces
spun Z left on the bobbin and 2 ounce
spun S left on the bobbin] approximately
216 yards.
Large
Fiber: [MC]
Briar
Rose Fibers [100% BFL ; top ; color: blues;/purples; 5 ounces (2.5
ounces spun Z left on the bobbin and 2.5 ounces spun S left on the bobbin)],
approximately 270 yards. [CC]
Briar
Rose Fibers [100% BFL ; top ; color:
reds/purples 3 ounces (1.5
ounces spun Z left on the bobbin and
1.5 ounces spun S left on the bobbin), approximately 162 yards.
Finished Yarn: Wraps
per inch: 14 Yardage
used: see fiber details above Plies:
single Drafting
method: sliding long draw
Spinning Tool: Schacht
Matchless with WooLee Winder,
Scotch tension lazy kate:
CJ Koho Kate45
Commercial Yarn Alternative None;
freshly handspun singles are required for this technique to work
Recommended needle size [always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below
-- every knitter's gauge is unique] 24-inch
or longer US #4/3.5 mm circular needle
Tools Stitch
markers Yarn
needle
GAUGE
16 st /24 rows = 4 inches in
stockinette stitch after blocking
PATTERN NOTES [Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]
Spinning Notes: You may spin all of your singles
at once, but I like to knit with
the freshest singles possible. I found
that the energy in the singles really
starts to diminish after 3 days. If
you have never spun singles S, take some time to practice;
it’s surprisingly
different than spinning Z.
To keep track of which bobbin holds your Z and S yarns, it’s
helpful to mark your bobbins. I write
a Z or S right on the end of my wooden bobbins.
Knitting Notes: The gauge is variable
for this shawl. The tighter the gauge,
the more the energy will show on the
surface, but the overall fabric will be stiffer.
It is easier to knit from your bobbins if you put them on a
lazy kate or leave them on your wheel.
It helps to keep the singles from tangling and to remember which
is Z and which is S if you place one on each side of you. When
I knit, I placed one bobbin on my lazy kate to my left and knit
from the other while it was still on my wheel (I took off the
brake band).
When you start a new yarn, work the end in immediately, otherwise
the twist will untwist and keep untwisting
and losing its energy into your knitted
fabric.
The 2 stitches on the outside edge of the shawl will be knit
in garter stitch (k on both sides) throughout.
DIRECTIONS
Small Shawl [shown above]
Using Z-spun yarn, CO 6 stitches. K 2 rows.
Setup:
Using Z-spun yarn: Row 1 [RS]: K2, yo, k1, pm, k1, yo, k2. Row 2 [WS]: K2, p to last 2 sts, k2. Row 3 [RS]: Using Z, k2, yo, k1, yo; attach S-spun yarn, and
using S, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2.
Note: When changing yarns in subsequent
rows, be sure to twist them to prevent
gaps. Row 4 [WS]: Using S, k2, p
to 1 st past marker; using Z, p to
last 2 sts, k2. Row 5 [RS]: Using Z, k2, yo,
k to 1 st before marker, yo, k2; using S,
yo, k until 2 sts rem, yo, k2. Row 6 [WS]: Using S, k2, p
to 1 st before marker; using Z, p to
last 2 sts, k2.
Shawl body: Row 1 [RS]: Using Z, k to
1 st before marker, yo; using S, k2,
yo, k to 2 sts before end, yo, k2. Row 2 [WS]: Using S, k2, p
to 1 st past marker; using Z, p to
last 2 sts, k2. Row 3 [RS]: Using Z, k2, yo,
k to 1 st before marker, yo, k2; using S,
yo, k until 2 sts rem, yo, k2. Row 4 [WS]: Using S, k2, p
to 1 st before marker; using Z, p to
last 2 sts, k2.
Repeat these 4 rows until piece measures close to 13 inches
vertically in the middle.
Using Z, k 3 rows and bind off loosely.
Large shawl [shown below]
The construction is the same as for the
Small shawl: the key difference is
that, in the portions worked with CC
yarn, the positions of S and Z yarns
are reversed.
Prepare your yarns as follows:
2 ounces of MC, split between 2 bobbins,
one spun Z and one spun S.
2 ounces of CC, split between 2 bobbins,
one spun Z and one spun S.
2 ounces of MC, split between 2 bobbins,
one spun Z and one spun S.
1 ounce of CC, split between 2 bobbins,
one spun Z and one spun S.
1 ounce of MC, split between 2 bobbins,
one spun Z and one spun S.
Leave yourself a little Z-spun CC yarn
for the edging and bind off.
Using Z-spun MC yarn, CO 6 stitches. K 2 rows.
Setup:
Using MC: Row 1 [RS]: Using Z-spun
yarn, K2,
yo, k1, pm, k1, yo, k2 Row 2 [WS]: K2, p to last 2 sts, k2 Row 3 [RS]: Using
Z, k2, yo, k1, yo; attach S yarn, and using
S, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2
Note: When changing yarns in subsequent rows, be sure to
twist them to prevent gaps.
Row 4 [WS]: Using S, k2, p to 1 st past marker; using
Z, p to last 2 sts, k2. Row 5 [RS]: Using Z, k2, yo,
k to 1 st before marker, yo, k2; using S,
yo, k until 2 sts rem, yo, k2. Row 6 [WS]: Using S, k2, p
to 1 st before marker; using Z, p to
last 2 sts, k2.
Shawl body:
MC Section:
Working with MC: Row 1 [RS]: Using Z, k to 1 st before marker, yo; using S, k2,
yo, k to 2 sts before end, yo, k2 Row 2 [WS]: Using S, k2, p to 1 st past marker; using Z, p to
last 2 sts, k2. Row 3 [RS]: Using Z, k2, yo, k to 1 st before marker, yo, k2;
using S, yo, k until 2 sts rem, yo, k2. Row 4 [WS]: Using S, k2, p to 1 st before marker; using Z, p
to last 2 sts, k2.
Repeat these 4 rows until the pair of MC bobbins are empty,
ending with a Row 4. Cut MC.
CC Section:
Join CC and work as follows: Row 1 [RS]: Using S, k to 1 st before marker, yo; using Z, k2,
yo, k to 2 sts before end, yo, k2 Row 2 [WS]: Using Z, k2, p to 1 st past marker; using S, p to
last 2 sts, k2. Row 3 [RS]: Using S, k2, yo, k to 1 st before marker, yo, k2;
using Z, yo, k until 2 sts rem, yo, k2. Row 4 [WS]: Using Z, k2, p to 1 st before marker; using S, p
to last 2 sts, k2.
Repeat these 4 rows until the pair of
CC bobbins are empty, ending with a Row 4. Cut CC and
join MC.
Repeat MC Section, CC Section and one more MC Section. Piece
should measure close to 19 inches vertically in the middle.
Join Z-spun CC. K 3 rows and bind off loosely.
FINISHING
Weave in ends. Spray block very lightly.
Pin out to a size just before the look
of the energy goes away, then spray
the edges and center of the piece much
more than the main fabric. Because of
the energy of the yarns, unless you force
it, this shawl will not be a triangular
shape, -- it’s
more of a diamond.
ABOUT THE DESIGNER
Jillian Moreno is rolling in the deep [fiber] in Ann Arbor, Michigan.
