A fiber dyeing experiment resulted in two 4 ounce bumps of Superwash
BFL that weren’t compelling by themselves, but had potential
when combined. I decided to spin all 8 ounces into a 3-ply yarn
and then design something for little Evelyn who was born last
year.
The handspun had long runs of color which I thought would be
perfect for mitered squares—which then lead to a car seat
blankie made in “patchwork” blocks. The great thing
about this project is there is no sewing required. Blocks
are joined by picking up sts or Three-Needle Bind Off. I even
joined the beginning and end of the i-cord border with a Three-Needle
Bind Off.
The result is a project that maximizes every bit of
precious handspun and not an inch is hidden in seaming. Of course
if you don’t mind minimal sewing, you could pull out your
darning needle and sew the beginning and end of the i-cord border
together for a more traditional finish.
The
finished blankie is the perfect size to make a little one cozy
in a car seat. I can also see Evelyn transforming this into
a cape, a picnic blanket, swaddling clothes for her dolls,
and whatever else she can imagine.
Although Evelyn’s No-Sew Blankie was originally made
in handspun [see images below], I’m also including photos
and requirements for the blankie in a readily
available yarn from Lisa Souza [shown above].
Her Superwash Merino is wonderfully soft
and has long runs of color which make it
perfect for this project.
Finished Yarn: Wraps
per inch: 10 Yardage
used: 485 yards Plies: 3-ply Drafting
method: short forward draw
Commercial Yarn Alternative Lisa
Souza Superwash Merino Wool - [100% superwash Merino wool;
560 yd per 8 oz skein]; color: Sunny Days; 1 skein
Recommended needle size [always use a needle size that
gives you the gauge listed below --
every knitter's gauge is unique] 1
24-inch US #9/5.5 mm circular needle PLUS An
additional 24-inch US #9/5.5 mm circular needles for 2
circular method OR 1
long US #9/5.5 mm circular needle for magic loop OR 1
set of 4 or 5 US #9/5.5 mm double pointed needles for working in the
round. 1
US #10/6.5 mm circular needle or a pair of dpns for Three-Needle Bind
Off and i-cord border.
Spinning Tool: Lendrum
double treadle with Fast
Flyer and Plying Head Niddy
Noddy: Nancy’s
Knit Knacks Lazy
Kate: Lendrum
Tools 4
stitch markers – 1 of a different
style or color Yarn
needle
GAUGE
18 sts/21 rows = 4 inches
in stockinette stitch
15 sts/30 rows = 4 inches in garter stitch
PATTERN NOTES [Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]
The blanket is worked in sections as shown in the pattern schematic
above:
Mitered Square A followed by Garter
Block B followed by Mitered Square C,
and so on.
The arrows in the schematic indicate the direction each section is worked.
After completing a mitered square, stitches are picked up along one edge
of the mitered square—denoted by a dotted line in the schematic—to
set-up the next garter st section.
Slip markers as you come to them unless otherwise instructed.
Rm: Remove marker.
Slip all sts as if to purl unless otherwise instructed.
DIRECTIONS
As illustrated in the schematic [see above],
the sections of the blanket are worked
in this order:
Mitered Square A
Garter Block B
Mitered Square C
Garter Block D
Mitered Square C
Garter Block B
Mitered Square C
Garter Block E
Join Garter Block E with Mitered Square
A
Center Mitered Block F
I-cord Border
Mitered Square A Using a smaller circular needle, CO 61 sts.
Set-up row: K all sts.
Row 1 [RS]: K29, SK2P, k1,
pm, k to end of row. 59 sts.
Row 2 [WS]: K all sts.
Row 3 [RS]: K to 3 sts before
marker, SK2P, rm, k1, pm, k to end
of row. 2 sts decreased.
Row 4 [WS]: K all sts.
Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until 5 sts rem, ending with a WS
row.
Next row [RS]: K1, SK2P, rm, k1. 3 sts.
Next row [WS]: K all sts.
Next row [RS]: SK2P. Do not turn work. 1 st.
Garter Block B #1 With RS facing, pick up and knit 30 sts in the garter ridges
along the edge of the mitered square just worked as indicated
by the dashed line in the schematic. 31 sts total.
Knit 60 rows. Note: With RS facing, Garter Block B will have 30 garter ridges and
you will have just completed a RS row.
Mitered Square C #1 Turn work so WS is facing. Place marker on left needle and using
Cable Cast-on, CO 61 sts. Do not turn work. 92 sts total. Set-up row [WS]: K until there
is 1 unworked st before marker, sl1,
rm, slip st back to left needle, k2tog,
pm on left needle. Turn work. 1 st
decreased. 91 sts. Row 1 [RS]: K29, SK2P, k1,
pm, k to end of row. 2 sts decreased.
89 sts. Row 2 [WS]: K until there
is 1 unworked st before second marker,
sl1, rm, slip st back to left needle,
k2tog, pm on left needle. Turn work.
1 st decreased. Row 3 [RS]: K to 3 sts before
marker, SK2P, rm, k1, pm, k to end
of row. 2 sts decreased.
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until a total of 8 sts rem.
Work Row 2 once more. 7 sts. Next row [RS]: K1, SK2P, rm, k1. 5 sts. Next row [WS]: K2, sl1, rm, slip st back to left needle, k2tog.
Turn work. 4 sts. Next row [RS]: SK2P. Turn work. 2 sts. Next row [WS]: K2tog. 1 st.
Garter Block D With RS facing, pick up and knit 30 sts in the garter ridges
along the edge of the mitered square just worked as indicated
by the dashed line in the schematic. 31 sts total.
Knit 30 rows. Note: With RS facing, Garter Block D will have 15 garter ridges and
you will have just completed a RS row.
Mitered Square C #2 Work as for
Mitered Square C #1.
Garter Block B #2 Work
as for Garter Block B #1.
Mitered Square C #3 Work as for Mitered Square
C #1.
Garter Block E With RS facing, pick up and knit 30 sts in the garter ridges
along the edge of the mitered square just worked as indicated
by the dashed line in the schematic. 31 sts total.
Knit 27 rows. Note: With RS facing, Garter Block E will have 14 garter ridges and
you will have just completed a WS row.
Join Garter Block E with Mitered Square A Push all of the sts to the opposite tip of the circular needle,
towards point G in the schematic. Lay the blanket flat with WS
facing and make sure it is not twisted. With the end of the circular
needle closest to the center of the blanket or with a new needle,
use the current working yarn to pick up and knit 1 st at the
edge of Mitered Square A at point H in the schematic pulling
the yarn firmly to minimize slack; pick up and knit 30 sts along
the edge of Mitered Square A from point H to point G in the schematic.
62 sts.
Note: You now have 31 sts from the edge of Mitered Square
A on one needle tip and 31 sts from the edge of Garter Block
E on another needle tip. Both needle tips and the working yarn
are at the outer edge of the blanket at point G in the schematic.
With WS facing and using a larger needle as your right hand
needle, join the blanket using a Three-Needle Bind Off working
from the outer edge towards the center of the blanket, from point
G to point H in the schematic. 1 st.
Center Mitered Block F Note: Stitches are picked up and
worked in the round to complete the
center block. The center block can
be worked using dpns, or 2 circular
needles, or 1 long circular needle
for magic loop. Rearrange the stitches
on the needle(s) as needed to accommodate
the decreases.
Transfer the 1 live st to a smaller circular needle or dpn.
With RS facing, pick up and knit the following sts as indicated
by the dot-dashed lines in the schematic, rearranging the sts
on your needle(s) as appropriate:
1 st in the garter ridge from the edge of Garter Block E
closest to the corner
1 st from the corner of Mitered Square A,
30 stitches in the garter ridges along the edge of Garter
Block B #1,
1 st from the corner of Mitered Square C #1,
15 stitches in the garter ridges along the edge of Garter
Block D,
1 st from the corner of Mitered Square C #2,
30 stitches in the garter ridges from the edge of Garter
Block B #2,
1 st from the corner of Mitered Square C #3,
13 stitches in the garter ridges along the edge of Garter
Block E.
94 sts total. Do not turn.
Rnd 1: P2, p1 (corner st), p1, place marker A (use
the unique color/style marker here), p29, p1 (corner st), p1,
pm, p14, p1 (corner st), p1, pm, p29, p1 (corner st), p1, pm,
p12. 94 sts. Rnd 2: K1, SK2P, remove marker
A, k1, place marker A, (k until there
are 3 unworked sts before next marker,
SK2P, rm, k1, pm) 3 times, k11. 8 sts
decreased, 86 sts. Rnd 3: (P to marker, sl m)
4 times, p until there are 3 unworked
sts before marker A and stop. This
is the beg of the next rnd. Rnd 4: SK2P, remove marker
A, k1, place marker A, (k until there
are 3 unworked sts before next marker,
SK2P, rm, k1, pm) 3 times, k until
there are 2 unworked sts before marker
A and stop. This is the beg of the
next rnd. 8 sts decreased.
Repeat Rnds 3 and 4 5 more times. 38 sts. Next rnd: (P2tog, p17) twice. 2 sts decreased. 36 sts.
Prepare for Three-Needle Bind Off: With WS facing, rm all markers
and arrange sts so the first 18 sts of the round are on one needle
tip and the second 18 sts of the round are on a second needle
tip, and both needle tips are at the beg of the round where the
working yarn is.
Using a larger needle as your right needle, close the blanket
with a Three-Needle Bind Off. 1 st.
Cut yarn leaving a 6 inch tail and elongate the last st, making
it larger and larger until the tail pulls free.
I-cord Border Note: The border can be started
anywhere along the edge, but it is
easier if you avoid starting the border
at a corner of the blanket. The border
is worked by knitting 2 sts of the
i-cord, then knitting the third st
of the i-cord together, through the
back loops, with a stitch picked up
along the border of the blanket.
The i-cord will be attached to the blanket at 334 pick-up
points along the edge of the blanket:
61 sts along the CO edge of mitered squares—30
sts along a straight edge + 1 corner st + 30 sts along the
other straight edge.
30 stitches in the garter ridges along the edges both
Garter Block B’s.
15 stitches in the garter ridges along the edges of Garter
Block D and Garter Block E.
Using larger needles, CO 3 sts.
Set-up: K2, sl1, with right
side facing, using right needle, pick
up 1 st along the border of the blanket,
slip this and the first slipped st
to your left needle and knit the 2
sts together through the back loops.
Do not turn.
I-cord row: With
right needle pick up the next st along the border of the blanket;
keeping yarn in back of work, slip all four sts from the right
needle to the left needle, k2, k2togtbl. Do not turn.
Repeat I-cord row until you reach
a corner of the blanket (do not work the corner st).
I-cord corner: Slip 3 sts from the
right needle to the left needle, k3, work I-cord
rowat corner of blanket, slip
3 sts from the right needle to the left needle, k3. Do not turn.
Continue working I-cord row along
the sides of the blanket and the I-cord corner at
the corner sts of the blanket until you reach the beginning of
the border.
Finish by picking up 3 sts at the beginning of the i-cord border
and join the beginning of the border to the end of the border
using Three-Needle Bind Off.
OR
Cut the yarn leaving a 6 inch tail and draw through the live
stitches of the i-cord. Using a darning needle, sew the beginning
of the border to the end of the border.
FINISHING
Weave in ends and block.
ABOUT THE DESIGNER
Janice knits, spins, and dyes fiber in
her home in Northern California. In her
spare time she also sings
backup in a band — her fellow band members often see
her knitting during down time at rehearsal
and soundcheck.
