I was paging through Japanese stitch dictionaries and found
the main pattern used in this shawl. It reminded me of
an Egyptian cartouche and I visualized it in a deeper vibrant
red, the colour of life and victory for Ancient Egyptians.
In this top-down shawl, the stitch patterns flow seamlessly
one into another. To accomplish this, transitional charts
are used. These are marked as such and must be followed
with extra care as stitch patterns are altered
to flow into the next design.
Recommended needle size [always use a needle
size that gives you the gauge
listed below -- every knitter's
gauge is unique] 1
US #3/ 3.25 mm circular needle, 32 – 40 inches/80 – 100
cm
Notions Yarn
needle 4 Stitch markers 2 Cable needles Fine cotton yarn in contrasting color for life-lines Blocking wires and pins Removable
highlighter tape for keeping track of
your progress on the charts [optional]
GAUGE
21.25 sts/41.25 rows = 4 inches
in the lace pattern from Chart A, after blocking
PATTERN NOTES [Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]
Each
chart shows only the stitches
between markers 1 and 2
and the centre “spine” stitches. The
chart must then be repeated across the
stitches between markers 3 and 4.
When a yarnover is followed by a purl stitch, do not wrap the
yarn around the needle. Simply take yarn to the back and
work the purl stitch, allowing the yarn to lay over the needle.
Hb yo - Horizontal bar yarnover - with right
needle, pick up 3rd stitch on left needle
and pull over 1st and 2nd stitch and drop, creating a horizontal
bar under the stitches, then k1, yo, k1. Inc3
(Used in flower bud motif) - Increase
3 stitches in the next loop as follows:
K1 in to purl bump three rows below,
K1 in to the purl bump two rows below. K1
in to the purl bump three rows below. Drop
original stitch off left needle and
let stitches unravel.
1. Knit 1 stitch inserting your
needle under the purl bump three
rows below the stitch on your left
needle. Draw new stitch through.
2. Knit a second stitch by inserting
your needle under the second purl
bump below the stitch on the left
needle.
3. Draw new stitch through. There
are now two stitches on the right
hand needle and the original stitch
is still on the left needle.
4. Now knit a third stitch by knitting
again under the third purl bump below
the needle and draw off the new stitch.
5. You now have three stitches
on the right hand needle and the
original stitch on the left hand
needle.
6. Drop the original stitch
off
the left hand needle.
7. Let the stitches unravel down
to the new stitches (you may need
to assist them in doing this).
8. The two bars from the unraveled
stitches
will lay horizontally
behind
the three stitches.
9. After working the sl2-k1-psso
decrease, the stitch is completed.
10. The finished stitch looks like
flower buds.
Note: Be very careful when working the
double decreases. Both s2kpo and sk2po are
used, and there is a difference in
how they look – make
sure you use the right one.
S2kpo – Slip
2 stitches together as if to knit,
knit next st, pass 2 slipped stitches
over stitch just knit.
Sk2po – Slip
next stitch as if to knit, k2tog, pass
slip stitch over.
C2bp – Slip
next st to cable needle and hold in
back, k1tbl, p1 from cable needle.
C2fp – Slip
next st to cable needle and hold in
front, p1, k1tbl from cable needle.
C3 - Slip next st
to cable needle and hold in front,
slip following stitch to cable needle
and hold in back; ktbl next stitch,
knit stitch from cable needle held
in back, ktbl stitch from cable needle
held in front.
S2kpo - Slip 2 stitches
together knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped
stitches over
C3p – Slip next
st to a cable needle and hold in front,
slip following st to a second cable
needle and hold in back; k1tbl, p1
from cable needle held in back, ktbl stitch
from cable needle held in front.
Instructions for the Knit Lace Bind-Off can be found
here (middle technique).
Charts The charts for this pattern are very large.
Each fits on a letter-sized page.
Click below and print each resulting
page.
Cast on 3 stitches and work in garter stitch
until 9 ridges have been completed (18
rows).
With right side (RS) facing, knit across the 3 stitches on your
needle. Turn work 90 degrees clockwise
and pick up and knit a stitch in the
edge of each garter stitch ridge. Turn
work 90 degrees clockwise and pick up
3 stitches in the cast on edge (15 stitches).
Turn work so wrong side (WS) is facing.
Chart A Row 1 [RS]: K3, work 5 sts of row 1 of
Chart A between first two markers, 3 stitches of spine between
second and third markers, and repeat the first 5 chart sts
again between the third and fourth markers, k3.
Row 2 [WS]: K3, work 5 sts of row 2 of
Chart A between first two markers, 3 stitches of spine between
second and third markers, and repeat the first 5 chart sts again
between the third and fourth markers, k3.
Continue in pattern as established until Chart row 42 is complete.
At the end of the Chart A you should have 45 stitches between
markers 1 and 2 and between markers 3 and 4. 99 stitches total.
Charts B1-3
Work each chart once in order: the 44
rows of chart B1, then the 44 rows of chart B2 and then the
24 rows of chart B3. Continue to work k3 at the beginning
and end of each row.
Note: If
you wish to make a larger shawl, work
an extra repeat or two of the 44 row repeat in this section.
If a larger size is worked, additional yardage will be required. To
make the shawl smaller, work fewer repeats. If you adjust
the number of repeats, make sure you
end on row 24.
After Charts B1-3 are complete you will have 157 stitches between
markers 1 and 2 and between markers 3 and 4. 323 stitches total.
Chart C
Work chart C once, continuing to work
k3 at the beginning and end of each row.
Note: Work this section
with extra care. The
stitch pattern is close to the one in
chart B but this section of chart handles the transition to
the new stitch pattern in chart D, and there are differences.
At the end of Chart C, you should have 167 stitches between
markers 1 and 2 and between markers 3
and 4. 343 stitches total.
Charts D1-2
Work Chart D1 once, then D2 once, continuing
to work k3 at the beginning and end
of each row.
Note: As indicated on
the chart legend, the first stitch of chart D1 is a yo. For
subsequent stitch repeats, work this stitch as a purl.
Note: See the pattern notes for instructions
on working the stitches that create the flower buds (comprised
of the inc3, p3 and sk2po over three rows).
At the end of Charts D1 & 2 you should have 217 stitches
between between markers 1 and 2 and between markers 3 and 4.
443 stitches total.
Chart E
Work Chart E once, continuing to work
k3 at the beginning and end of each
row.
At the end of the Chart E you should have 289 stitches between
between markers 1 and 2 and between markers 3 and 4. 587 stitches
total.
FINISHING
Bind off loosely with RS facing using the Knit Lace Bind-Off;
however, instead of working the bind-off entirely in knit, purl
the purl sts and knit the knit sts as they present themselves.
Weave in all ends. Soak shawl in lukewarm water with
a wool wash until the yarn is thoroughly
saturated. Roll
shawl in a towel and gently squeeze to
remove excess water. Stretch
piece to desired measurement and pin in
flat to dry (it is highly recommended that
blocking wires be used for this). Do not unpin until completely
dry.
ABOUT THE DESIGNER
Janelle has been an avid knitter for the past 27 years but has
only recently started designing and writing
patterns. Her current fascination is with
Japanese Stitch Patterns. She lives in
Waterloo, ON, Canada, and rarely goes anywhere
without a book and her knitting.
S2kpo – Slip
2 stitches together as if to knit,
knit next st, pass 2 slipped stitches
over stitch just knit.
