I'm obsessed with a cozy slipper. I am also quite enamored with seamless construction (that sewing merit badge evades me still) and have found it quite difficult to find a slipper pattern that wasn't a sock, yet still boasted a seamless construction and a comfortable fit.
In a fever of such inspiration, I came up with my elfin Stipper Pattern, which to this day is still my most popular paid-for pattern. The construction for these slippers is somewhat similar, but even spicier, especially as Drogo (so named because of the sun and stars motifs, and also because they're complex and beautiful, not unlike a certain Dothraki khal) boasts an inner, an outer, some entertaining colorwork... and each slipper is knitted entirely in one piece. You don't even have to weave in the ends, if you really don't want to. Bonus: they're entirely reversible.
So if you fancy your slippers as thick and loud as I do and like your projects done as soon as you've grafted a few stitches, Drogo is for you.
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS Foot Circumference: Approximately 7.75[9, 10] inches (on inside of slipper after assembly. Shown in Size L) Foot Length:9[10, 11] inches (customizable) Note: Slipper is meant to have positive ease, so as to be worn comfortably with socks.
Note: In North America, Jamieson's Shetland Spindrift is an excellent alternative, available online from Schoolhouse Press.
Jamieson's Shetland Spindrift [100% Shetland wool; 115yd/105m per 25g skein] [MC] 410 Cornfield (gold); 2[3, 3] skeins [CC1] 134 Blue Danube (light blue); 1[2, 2] skeins [CC2] 676 Sapphire (dark blue); 1[2, 2] skeins
Recommended needle size [always use a needle
size that gives you the gauge
listed below -- every knitter's
gauge is unique] US #2/2.75mm needles for small circumferences in the round: set of five DPNs (long ones suggested), 1 long circular for Magic Loop, or 2 short circulars.
34 sts/32 rounds = 4" in Chart A and B patterns (worked in stockinette stitch), after blocking
Note: While correct stitch gauge is crucial to fit, row gauge is more flexible and length alternatives are given in pattern. Change needle size as necessary to achieve the correct stitch gauge.
PATTERN NOTES [Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]
Sssk: Slip 3 sts separately knit-wise to RH needle. Slip sts back to LH needle and knit these 3 sts together through back of loops.
Each slipper is worked in one piece with the inner and outer worked simultaneously. See schematic at right.
Stitches are cast-on using a figure-8 cast-on at the back of the heel. A tutorial can be found here
Kitchener stitch
Instructions for grafting can be found here.
Instructions for basic crochet stitches can be found here.
The slippers are completely reversible.
You may find it easier to start the pattern on DPNs and change to a circular needle when beginning sole decreases. If using DPNs, arrange the needles in a rectangle formation, with the heels each on their own DPN.
All charts are worked in stockinette stitch.
Keep charts in pattern as much as possible during heel and toe decreases.
Work Rnds 1-16 of Heel Chart once in total, then rep Rnds 17-32 of Heel Chart for remainder of pattern, keeping chart correct as possible with sole and toe decreases.
While working the toe short rows, twist the CC with the MC together at end of every row. Alternatively, finish the colorwork Center Chart by working across all chart sts in the non-dominant color (CC for Outer, MC for Inner) for 1 row, then continue to work the remainder of the short rows in the main color (MC for Outer, CC for Inner) only.
When shaping toe with decreases on the Inner, use whichever CC for decreases that is being used in that rnd of the chart.
Charts The charts for this pattern are very large. Each fits on a letter-sized
page.
Click below and print each resulting page.
Heel
With MC, CO 100[116, 124] total sts using figure-8 cast on, with 50[58, 62] sts on each of two needles.
Set-up rnd: With MC and RS facing, k25[29, 31]. Pm for new beginning of rnd.
Rnd 1 [RS]:
Outer: Work Rnd 1 of Chart A, pm, work Rnd 1 of Heel Chart A, pm, work Rnd 1 of Chart A, (working sts through back loops), pm.
Inner: Work Rnd 1 of Chart B (working sts through back loops), pm, work Rnd 1 of Heel Chart B, pm, work Rnd 1 of Chart B to end of rnd. This rnd sets the pattern for Charts A, B, and Heel Charts. Cont in patt as set until a total of 16 rnds have been completed, ending after Rnd 16 of charts. 134[150, 158] sts; 17 sts for each heel.
Cont in patt for 0[4, 8] rnds more, ending after Rnd 16[4, 8] of Charts A and B and after Rnd 16[20, 24] of Heel Charts. Piece measures approx. 2[2.5, 3] inches deep from cast-on point.
Begin sole decreases: Dec Rnd: Outer: Work Chart A to m, sl m, ssk with MC, work Heel Chart A to 2 sts before m, k2tog with MC, sl m, work Chart A to m, sl m.
Inner: Work Chart B to m, sl m, ssk with CC, work Heel Chart B to 2 sts before m, k2tog with CC, sl m, work Chart B to end of rnd. 4 sts dec'd.
Work 2[3, 4] rnds even in patt.
Rep last 3[4, 5] rnds 3[2, 1] time(s) more, then rep Dec Rnd once more. 114[134, 146] total sts; 7[9, 11] sts for each heel.
Work even in patt for 3[3, 5] rnds more, ending after Rnd 16[4, 8] of Charts A and B. Piece measures approx. 4[4.5, 5] inches deep from cast-on point.
Divide for Outer and Inner: Next rnd: Outer: Work Chart A to m, sl m, patt to m for heel, sl m, work Chart A to m. Slip rem 57[67, 73] sts of rnd to holder for Inner.
Turn work so WS is facing and cast on 9[9, 11] sts using cable cast-on in colors as set in Rnd 1[5, 9] of Center Chart A Right (or whichever rnd matches that just worked in Chart A). Turn work so RS is once more facing and join to work in the rnd. Keep original marker in place for beg of rnd. 66[76, 84] sts.
Note: It is recommended that you arrange the stitches as follows if using a circular needle: First repeat of Chart A and Heel sts on needle 1, and second repeat of Chart A and Center Chart on needle 2.
Outer: Rnd 1: Work Chart A to m, sl m, patt to m for heel, sl m, work Chart A to m, sl m, work next rnd of Center Chart A Right to end of rnd.
Cont in patt as set until piece measures 7[8, 9] inches from cast-on, or approx. 2 inches shorter than total desired length, slightly stretched.
Shape toe: Rnd 1: Patt 4[6, 7] in Chart A, k2tog with MC, patt to 3 sts before m, pm, ssk with MC, k1 with MC, remove m, patt to m, remove m, k1 with MC, k2tog with MC, pm, patt to 6[8, 9] sts before m, ssk with MC, patt 4[6, 7] in Chart A, sl m, work Center Chart A Right to end. 4 sts dec'd.
Rnd 2: Work even in patt, keeping charts centered and correct.
Rnd 3: Patt 4[6, 7] in Chart A, k2tog with MC, patt to m, sl m, ssk with MC, k1 with MC, patt to 3 sts before m, k1 with MC, k2tog with MC, sl m, patt to 6[8, 9] sts before m, ssk with MC, patt 4[6, 7] in Chart A, sl m, work Center Chart A Right to end. 4 sts dec'd.
Rnd 4: Work even in patt, keeping charts centered and correct.
Rep last 2 rnds 3 times more. 46[56, 64] sts.
Dec rnd: Patt 4[6, 7] in Chart A, k3tog with MC, patt to m, sl m, patt to m, sl m, patt to 7[9, 10] sts before m, sssk with MC, patt 4[6, 7] in Chart A, sl m, work Center Chart A Right to end. 4 sts dec'd.
Work 1 rnd even in patt, keeping charts centered and correct.
Rep last 2 rnds once more, then rep the Dec rnd again. 34[44, 52] sts.
Begin short rows: Note: If you do not wish to work colorwork and short rows at the same time, I recommend working across center 9 sts of Center Chart in CC on the following rnd to box off the Center Chart, then continue to work short rows in MC only.
Next rnd: Patt 0[6, 7] in Chart A, k2tog 0[1, 1] time with MC, patt to 0[8, 9] sts before Center Chart A Right (second to last m), ssk 0[1, 1] time with MC, patt to end. 34[42, 50] sts.
Set-up row [RS]: K1[2, 2] with MC, ssk with MC, turn.
Row 1 [WS]: Sl 1, patt 11[13, 15], p2tog with MC, turn. Row 2 [RS]: Sl 1, patt 11[13, 15], ssk with MC, turn.
Rep last 2 rows 0[2, 3] times more, then rep Row 1 once more. 30[34, 40] sts.
Prepare to graft toe:
Secure all ends inside of work. Set-up for graft [RS]: Sl 1, patt 12[14, 16], k1[1, 2] with MC. Cut yarn, leaving long tail. Rearrange sts so top 15[17, 20] sts are on one needle and bottom 15[17, 20] sts are on another. Join toe using Kitchener stitch and MC.
INNER
Join yarns to held sts at first repeat of Chart B and cont as foll:
Next rnd: Work Chart B to m, sl m, patt to m for heel, sl m, work Chart B to m. Turn work so WS is facing and cast on 9[9, 11] sts using cable cast-on in colors as set in Rnd 1[5, 9] of Center Chart B Right (or whichever rnd matches that just worked in Chart B). Turn work so RS is once more facing and join to work in the rnd. Pm for beg of rnd. 66[76, 84] sts.
Note: It is recommended that you arrange the stitches as follows if using a circular needle: First repeat of Chart B and Heel sts on needle 1, and second repeat of Chart B and Center Chart on needle 2.
Rnd 1: Work Chart B to m, sl m, patt to m for heel, sl m, work Chart B to m, sl m, work next rnd of Center Chart B Right to end of rnd.
Cont in patt as set until piece measures 7[8, 9] inches from cast-on, or approx. 2 inches shorter than total desired length, slightly stretched.
Shape toe: Rnd 1: Patt 4[6, 7] in Chart B, k2tog with CC, patt to 3 sts before m, pm, ssk with CC, k1 with CC, remove m, patt to m, remove m, k1 with CC, k2tog with CC, pm, patt to 6[8, 9] sts before m, ssk with CC, patt 4[6, 7] in Chart B, sl m, work Center Chart B Right to end. 4 sts dec'd. Rnd 2: Work even in patt, keeping charts centered and correct.
Rnd 3: Patt 4[6, 7] in Chart B, k2tog with CC, patt to m, sl m, ssk with CC, k1 with CC, patt to 3 sts before m, k1 with CC, k2tog with CC, sl m, patt to 6[8, 9] sts before m, ssk with CC, patt 4[6, 7] in Chart B, sl m, work Center Chart B Right to end. 4 sts dec'd. Rnd 4: Work even in patt, keeping charts centered and correct.
Rep last 2 rnds 3 times more. 46[56, 64] sts.
Dec Rnd: Patt 4[6, 7] in Chart B, k3tog with CC, patt to m, sl m, patt to m, sl m, patt to 7[9, 10] sts before m, sssk with CC, patt 4[6, 7] in Chart B, sl m, work Center Chart B Right to end. 4 sts dec'd.
Work 1 rnd even in patt, keeping charts centered and correct.
Rep last 2 rows once more, then rep Dec Rnd once more. 34[44, 52] sts.
Begin short rows: Note: If you do not wish to work colorwork and short rows at the same time, I recommend working across center 9 sts of Center Chart in MC on the following rnd to box off the Center Chart, then continue to work short rows in CCs only.
Next rnd: Patt 0[6, 7] in Chart B, k2tog 0[1, 1] time with CC, patt to 0[8, 9] sts before Center Chart B Right (second to last m), ssk 0[1, 1] time with CC, patt to end. 34[42, 50] sts.
Set-up row [RS]: K1[2, 2] with CC, ssk with CC, turn.
Row 1 [WS]: Sl 1, patt 11[13, 15], p2tog with CC, turn. Row 2 [RS]: Sl 1, patt 11[13, 15], ssk with CC, turn.
Rep last 2 rows 0[2, 3] times more, then rep Row 1 once more. 30[34, 40] sts.
Prepare to graft toe:
Secure all ends inside of work. Set-up for graft: Sl 1, patt 12[14, 16], k1[1, 3] with CC. Cut yarn, leaving long tail. Rearrange sts so top 15[17, 20] sts are on one needle and bottom 15[17, 20] sts are on another. Join toe using Kitchener stitch and CC.
LEFT SLIPPER
Work as for Right Slipper, working Center Charts A and B Left instead of Center Charts A and B Right.
FINISHING
Turn Inner of each slipper inside-out so it nests inside Outer. Tack Inner to Outer at toe and heel if desired, once the two are well-aligned.
Crochet Edging:
With CC2, RS of Outer facing, and crochet hook, starting at a row of CC2 before the Center Chart is cast on, work slip stitch along edge between Chart B and Chart A to cast-on sts, slip stitch across cast-on sts (9[9, 11] sts total), then slip stitch up the other side to the first row of CC2. Fasten off and hide end inside work. Repeat for other slipper.
Apply anti-slip glue to bottom of slippers, if desired.
Wash and dry slippers, stuffing them with plastic bags to maintain shape.
ABOUT THE DESIGNER
Born in the Pacific Northwest, Ashley moved to England to study for a year and liked it so much she stayed. Now a British citizen, she feels fully entitled to her love of the weather, gardening, bird-watching, the Great British Bake Off, and a rousing game of conkers.
Ashley lives in a Cotswold idyll with her husband and a determinedly needy cat. Rather embarrassingly (when she's not designing, tech editing for Knitty, or staring wistfully out of windows), you might find her writing saucy romantic fiction under the name of Ashley Brize.
Each slipper is worked in one piece with the inner and outer worked simultaneously. See schematic at right.
