INTRODUCTION

Isochronal Arc

by Barbara Benson

Several years ago my knitting world was dominated by lace. It was all I wanted to knit. Everything about lace made (and still makes) me happy. From the intricate and visually exciting stitch patterns to the resulting fabric with its incomparable drape and flow, it has it all. But then something happened, I wanted more; specifically, more color. I had this idea of something that I wanted to knit and I set about figuring out how to make it happen.

The solution turned out to be in the simplest stitch in all of knitting, the slip stitch. Knitting stripes and slipping stitches allows the knitter to create beautiful colorwork that looks like it took a great deal more effort that it actually did. Barbara Walker ran with this concept and developed something she called Mosaic stitch patterns. Since the initial inspiration for combining slip stitch colorwork with lace began with Mosaic stitch patterns I came to think of what I was developing as Mosaic Lace.

The more I delved into the possibilities created by this fusion of techniques the more I realized that they complement each other perfectly. The slipped stitches bring the desired color to lace while at the same time the openwork of lace brings movement and drape to the typically stoic Mosaic. After several years of learning the idiosyncrasies of the marriage of slip stitch colorwork and lace I realized that I had a book worth of fun to share.

We chose to highlight Isochronal Arc in Knitty for a couple of reasons. One, capes are awesome and I thought that the Knitty readers might get a kick out of knitting this particular one. Secondly, the yarn that the original version was knit in has been discontinued and this provided the opportunity to come up with a wonderful substitution. I hope you enjoy knitting Mosaic Lace as much as I have. If so you do you should check out my book Mosaic & Lace Knits for more colorful lace fun!

model: Fatimah Hinds

photos: Barbara Benson

SIZE

Women's size S/M[L/1X
]
shown in size S/M


FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Circumference at neckline: 30 inches/76 cm
Circumference at hem: 47.25[54] inches/ 120[137] cm
Length: 17.5[18.5] inches/ 44.5[47] cm

MATERIALS

Yarn
Anzula It Could Be Worsted [50% Merino wool/50% silk; 190 yds/174 m per 114 g/4oz skein]
[MC] Hippo; 2 skeins
[CC] Saffron; 2 skeins

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below - every knitter's gauge is unique]
US #8/5 mm circular needles
US #7 /4.5 mm circular needles
Note: Piece starts at largest circumference. A 32-inch/80cm circumference would work for the entire project, or you may wish to start with a 40-inch circumference and change to a shorter needle as the piece gets smaller in circumference.

Notions
stitch marker
tapestry needle

GAUGE

16 sts/22 rounds = 4 inches/10 cm in stockinette stitch with larger needle

Note: The interplay between the Mosaic and lace makes it particularly challenging to determine gauge over pattern. This is not to say that you should not swatch. By swatching to get gauge in stockinette stitch you will ensure that your finished piece will have the appropriate drape and that you will have enough yardage to complete your project.

PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

You can easily modify the length of this cape by working more or less repeats of Chart A vertically.

If you want to adjust the circumference of the cape you can add or remove cast on stitches in increments of 10 but be aware of the effect this will have on the neckline. The pattern has decrease rounds built in to make sure that the neckline isn't oversized on the larger size but if you chose to improvise you might need to make additional adjustments.

CDD: Slip two stitches as if to k2tog, knit next stitch and pass both slipped stitches (together) over the stitch just worked. Two stitches decreased.
SK2P: Slip one stitch knitwise, k2tog, and pass the slipped stitch over the stitch just worked. Two stitches decreased.

Pattern A
Round 1: With MC, [k1, YO, sl1 purlwise wyib, k1, sl1 purlwise wyib, SK2P, sl1 purlwise wyib, k1, sl1 purlwise wyib, YO] around.
Round 2: With MC, [k2, (sl1 purlwise wyib, k1) 4 times] around.
Round 3: With CC, [k2, YO, k1, sl1 purlwise wiyb, cdd, sl1 purlwise wyib, k1, YO, k1] around.
Round 4: With CC, [k4, sl1 purlwise wiyb, k1, sl1 purlwise wyib, k3] around.
Round 5: With MC, [k3, YO, sl1 purlwise wyib, cdd, sl1 purlwise wyib, YO, k2] around.
Round 6: With MC, [k4, sl1 purlwise wyib, k1, sl1 purlwise wyib, k3] around.
Round 7: With CC, [k4, YO, cdd, YO, k3] around.
Round 8: With CC, knit.
Rounds 9 & 10: With MC, purl.
Round 11: With CC, [k1, YO, sl1 purlwise wyib, k1, sl1 purlwise wyib, SK2P, sl1 purlwise wyib, k1, sl1 purlwise wyib, YO] around.
Round 12: With CC, [k2, (sl1 purlwise wyib, k1) 4 times] around.
Round 13: With MC, [k2, YO, k1, sl1 purlwise wiyb, cdd, sl1 purlwise wyib, k1, YO, k1] around.
Round 14: With MC, [k4, sl1 purlwise wiyb, k1, sl1 purlwise wyib, k3] around.
Round 15: With CC, [k3, YO, sl1 purlwise wyib, cdd, sl1 purlwise wyib, YO, k2] around.
Round 16: With CC, [k4, sl1 purlwise wyib, k1, sl1 purlwise wyib, k3] around.
Round 17: With MC, [k4, YO, cdd, YO, k3] around.
Round 18: With MC, knit.
Rounds 19 & 20: With CC, purl.

Pattern B
Round 1: [K1, YO, k3, SK2P, k3, YO] around.
Rounds 2: Knit.
Round 3: [K2, YO, k2, cdd, k2, YO, k1] around.
Rounds 4: Knit.
Round 5: [K3, YO, k1, cdd, k1, YO, k2] around.
Rounds 6: Knit all sts.
Round 7: [K4, YO, cdd, YO, k3] around.
Rounds 8: Knit.

DIRECTIONS

Using Cable cast-on method, larger needle, CC, CO 210[240] sts. Place marker to indicate beginning of round and join to work in the round, being careful not to twist sts.

Purl two rounds.

Join MC.

Next round: Work Pattern A 21[24] times around.

Work as set until you have worked 4 full repeats.

Change to smaller needle.
Next round: With MC, Work Pattern B 21[24] times around.

Work as set until you have completed 1 repeat.

For L/XL only: With MC, Knit two rounds.

With CC, knit four rounds.

Decrease Section
With CC
Round 1: [K4, cdd, k3] around. 168[192] sts.
Round 2: Knit.
Round 3: [K3, cdd, k2] around. 126[144] sts.
Round 4: Knit.

For S/M only:
Round 5: With MC, [k2, cdd, k1] around. 84 sts.
Round 6: With MC, [k1, p1] around.

For L/XL only:
Round 5: With CC, [k2, cdd, k1] around. 96 sts.
Round 6: With CC, knit.
Round 7: With MC, *k2, SKP, k4] around. 84 sts.
Round 8: With MC, [k1, p1] around.

All Sizes
Ribbing Section
Change to CC
Round 1: Knit.
Round 2: [K1, p1] around.
Change to MC, repeat Rounds 1 and 2.
Change to CC, repeat Rounds 1 and 2.
Cut CC and change to MC, knit 1 round.

BO as follows:
K1, *k1; return 2 sts to left needle and p2tog; repeat from * until all sts are bound off.

FINISHING

Weave in ends. Block assertively to shape, tapering to match where the decrease section begins. If you have crease lines where piece was blocked flat, refold so that they are flattened out, steam, and pat lightly to remove crease. Trim ends.

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Despite the fact that Atlanta, GA, doesn't have ideal knitwear weather, Barbara loves living and knitting in the South. Self-proclaimed as "a bit silly and a bit nerdy", this often translates into her designs. When it comes to the art world, her love for the Art Nouveau and Art Deco movements shines through with intricate stitch work and swooping shapes. When not knitting she can frequently be found wielding either a camera, a chef's knife, or a Minecraft pickaxe (with her son). 

In March of 2017 she published her first book – Mosaic & Lace Knits: 20 Innovated Patterns Combining Slip-Stitch Colorwork and Lace Techniques. She also has a catalog of independently published patterns as well as having patterns published in Twist Collective, Knitscene, Interweave Knits Holiday Gifts, Knit Edge, Knit Now, Lace One-Skein Wonders, and Masterpiece Knits.  More information about Barbara and her designs can be found on her website and Ravelry. If video is more your thing check out her fun and educational videos on her YouTube channel Watch Barbara Knit.

Pattern & images © 2017 Barbara Benson.