Fingers Crossed, a free knitting pattern from Knitty.com. Free knitting pattern for a DETAILS HERE.
by Kate Atherley
I was, I must confess, initially skeptical about the idea of fingerless mitts. I wasn't sure that they could provide all that much value – other than as a fashion statement. Over my years as a Toronto-based knitter (where our winters have become increasingly and unpredictably harsh), I have become not just a convert, but a very enthusiastic evangelist of the fingerless mitten.
Even though your fingers are exposed, the extra coverage of the hand provides a surprising amount of warmth – and of course choosing an extra warm yarn knitted a bit tight makes them even better. I like to wear a pair of mittens like this under full mittens – very helpful if I have to remove my “big” mittens for any reason, like dealing with dog stuff, holding my transit pass, or digging in my wallet for change for my coffee. I've also been known to wear them indoors, in the depths of winter, in our old draughty house. Wear them snug for warmth and so they don't interfere with cold-weather knitting. The ribbing on the palm helps the fit. Because this yarn is soft and therefore somewhat inclined to pill, I've worked it on smaller needles than you might expect.
I came across this particular cable motif in Barbara Walker's Third Treasury (the charted one), and it's been bookmarked for at least ten years, waiting for the right project. I was glad to finally find the perfect spot to use it. Not being one to leave well-enough alone, I created a mirrored version – Second Mitt Syndrome is too a real thing!
model: Kate Atherley
photos: Amy Singer
Child 7-8 years[Child 9-10 years, Child 11-12/Women's XS, Women's S, Women's M/Men's XS, Women's L/Men's S, Women's XL/Men's M, Men's L, Men's XL]
shown in Women's XS on a 7 inch/16.5 cm hand
Hand circumference: 5[5.5, 6, 6.5, 7, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9] inches/ 12.5[14, 15, 16.5, 18, 19, 20.5, 21.5, 23] cm, unstretched
Length: 6.5[6.5, 7, 7.25, 7.75, 8.25, 8.75, 9, 9.25] inches/ 16.5[16.5, 18, 18.5, 19.5, 21, 22, 23, 23.5] cm
Choose a size with approximately 1 inch/2.5 cm negative ease in the hand circumference.
Mitten should stretch to fit.
PortFiber/Cashmere People Yarns Cashgora Sport [100% Cashgora; est 300 yds/275m m per 100 g skein]; color: Apricot; 1 skein
Note: because this is handspun yarn, yardage varies across skeins. 225yds is plenty for the largest sizes. The smaller sizes need approximately 100yds.
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below - every knitter's gauge is unique]
US #2/2.75 mm needles for small circumference in the round
waste yarn or stitch holder for thumb sts
28 sts/40 rounds = 4 inches/10 cm in stockinette stitch
Note: This yarn is sportweight, but I've worked it on needles a little smaller than normal, for extra warmth and pill-resistance. You could use a fingering weight yarn to get the same gauge, but the mittens won't be quite as warm or insulating.
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]
Both Mittens start the same way. The only differences between Right and Left are the chart used, and the position of the gusset.
The chart pattern is deliberately offset on the back of the hand, so it sits to the far side of the thumb.
M1: I recommend the backwards loop make 1.
C6L: Slip next 3 sts to cable needle and hold in front of work; k3, then k3 from cable needle.
C6R: Slip next 3 sts to cable needle and hold in back of work; k3, then k3 from cable needle.
C3/1PL: Slip next 3 sts to cable needle and hold in front of work; p1, then k3 from cable needle.
C3/1PR: Slip next st to cable needle and hold in back of work; k3, then p1 from cable needle.
C3/2PL: Slip next 3 sts to cable needle and hold in front of work; p2, then k3 from cable needle.
C3/2PR: Slip next 2 sts to cable needle and hold in back of work; k3, then p2 from cable needle.
Binding off: You want a slightly stretchy BO edge, but not so much it flares out. I recommend working a yarnover every third or fourth stitch, and binding that off as if it were a normal stitch.
Using your preferred stretchy method, CO 29[32, 35, 38, 41, 44, 47, 50, 53] sts. Distribute across needles as you prefer and join for working in the round.
Cuff ribbing: P2, (k3, p1) 3 times, (p1, k2) to end.
Work ribbing as set until cuff measures 2.5[2.5, 2.75, 2.75, 3, 3, 3.25, 3.25, 3.25] inches/ 6.5[6.5, 7, 7, 7.5, 7.5, 8.5, 8.5, 8.5] cm, or desired length.
Transition to Hand
Next round, increase for hand: P1, m1, p1, k3, p1, m1, k3, m1, p1, k3, m1, p1, [p1, k1, m1, k1] to end. 38[42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 62, 66, 70] sts.
Establish Gusset, Right Hand Only: Work Chart over 19 sts, k3, (p1, k3) 0[0, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3] times, place marker for start of gusset, p1, place second marker for end of gusset, (k3, p1) to last 3 sts, k3.
Establish Gusset, Left Hand Only: Work in patt as set until 4[4, 8, 8, 8, 12, 12, 16, 16] sts rem, place marker for start of gusset, p1, place second marker for end of gusset, (k3, p1) to last 3 sts, k3.
As you work through Gusset, continue to work chart as set, paying attention to any repeats of the first row for the larger sizes.
Increase round: Work in pattern as set to gusset marker, slip marker, m1, p to next marker, m1, slip marker, work in rib pattern to end of round. 2 gusset sts increased. Work 2 rounds even in pattern, purling sts between the gusset markers.
Repeat the last 3 rounds 3[0, 0, 2, 6, 3, 5, 9, 6] more times.
Work an Increase round followed by 3 even rounds 2[5, 5, 4, 1, 4, 3, 0, 3] times. 13[13, 13, 15, 17, 17, 19, 21, 21] sts between markers for gusset.
Next round, separate thumb sts: Work in pattern as set to gusset marker, remove both markers and slip gusset sts to waste yarn or stitch holder; using backwards loop method CO 1 st over gap, then work in rib pattern to end of round. Stitch count will vary because of chart, but you should be back to your base set of sts.
Continue even in pattern as set until chart is complete, including any repeats of the final row for the larger sizes. 38[42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 62, 66, 70] sts at this point.
Next round, decrease for upper ribbing: (P2, p2tog) twice, k3, (p2tog, p2) twice, (k1, k2tog, p1) to last 3 sts, k1, k2tog. 29[32, 35, 38, 41, 44, 47, 50, 53] sts.
Upper cuff ribbing: P2, (k3, p1) 3 times, (p1, k2) to end.
Work in ribbing as set for 0.75[0.75, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1] inches/ 2[2, 2.5, 2.5, 2.5, 2.5, 2.5, 2.5, 2.5] cm, or desired length.
Return 13[13, 13, 15, 17, 17, 19, 21, 21] held thumb sts to needles. With RS facing, rejoin yarn at crook of thumb and pick up and knit 3 sts in the gap over the CO st of the hand. 16[16, 16, 18, 20, 20, 22, 24, 24] sts.
Note: You might be tempted to work the thumb inside out, to avoid the purling. Don't, as it will mess with your gauge and fit. Most knitters purl looser than they knit, and if you work the thumb as knits, it could be too small. And if you're struggling with the p2tog-tbl in the decrease rounds, a normal p2tog can be used instead.
Distribute sts across needles as you prefer and join for working in the round and purl around to end of previously held sts
First round: P2, p2tog, p to last st, p2tog tbl over last st of this and first st of next round. This is new start of round position. 14[14, 14, 16, 18, 18, 20, 22, 22] sts.
Purl 2[2, 3, 4, 3, 4, 5, 5, 6] rounds, or desired length to ribbing. (Ribbing measures 0.5[0.5, 0.5, 0.5, 0.75, 0.75, 0.75, 0.75, 0.75] inches/ 1.5[1.5, 1.5, 1.5, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2] cm – or desired length.)
First, Second, Third, Fifth, Sixth, Eighth & Ninth Sizes only, decrease for ribbing: P1, p2tog, p to last 2 sts, p2tog tbl. 12[12, 12, -, 16, 16, -, 20, 20] sts.
Ribbing round: [K2, p2] around. Work ribbing as set for 0.5[0.5, 0.5, 0.5, 0.75, 0.75, 0.75, 0.75, 0.75] inches/ 1.5[1.5, 1.5, 1.5, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2] cm, or desired length. BO.
Hand wash to block, and then weave in ends, using the tail at the base of the thumb to close up the inevitable hole there.
ABOUT THE DESIGNER
Kate has cold hands. So cold, in fact, that she's written a whole book about ways to keep them warm.
Pattern & images © 2018 Kate Atherley.