Knitty: little purls of wisdom
Jimmy Beans
Title
beauty shot
Tangy

When I set out to make this jacket. I wanted a something I could wear that would keep me plenty warm on those cool fall nights sitting by the fire.

I was inspired by the Autumn Leaves, the many shades of Red, Orange, and Yellow that the trees will paint their leaves. Captivated by these colors, I wanted to capture the beauty of the season.

This jacket is worked in the round from the bottom up. The body and sleeves are joined at the yoke, steeked in the center, and the button bands are picked up and knit along the steek edges.

spacer model: Maureen Moody
spacer photos: Ellen Barger
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SIZE
XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X]
Shown in size S with 6 inches of positive ease

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Chest Circumference: 33.25[38.5, 41.75, 46, 51.25, 54.5, 58.75] inches including front band/collar, accounting for overlap
Note: Choose a size with approx 5-7 inches of positive ease.
Length: 26[26.5, 27, 28.25, 28.75, 29.75, 30.75] inches from shoulder to hem.

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MATERIALS
Yarn

Valley Yarns Berkshire Bulky Weight [85% Wool, 15% Alpaca, 108yds/98.75m per 100g skein), colors:
spacer [MC] Coffee Bean #39; 4[4, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5] skeins, approx 365,[370, 390, 420, 475, 515, 535] yds
spacer [CC1] Burgundy #16; 3[4, 4, 4,5, 5, 5] skeins, approx 290,[355, 365, 380, 440, 480, 515] yds
spacer [CC2] Red #15; 2[3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 4] skeins, approx 195[225, 240, 260, 295, 320, 340] yds
spacer [CC3] Pumpkin #11; 1 skein, approx 40[45, 50, 55, 60, 70, 73]yds
spacer [CC4] Gold #10; 1 skein, approx 55[60, 65, 70, 80, 85, 90] yds
spacer [CC5] Forest #35; 1 skein, approx 30[35, 40, 45, 55, 60, 65] yds
spacer [CC6] Tan Heather #44; 2[2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3] skeins, approx 165[185, 200, 220, 255, 270, 290] yds
spacer [CC7] Mistletoe #37; 1 skein, approx 55[60, 65, 70, 80, 85, 90] yds
spacer [CC8] Olive #33; 1 skein, approx 55[60, 65, 70, 80, 85, 90] yds

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
spacer 1 16-inch and 1 32-inch US #10.5/6.5mm circular needle
spacer 1 set US #10.5/6.5mm double-pointed needles
spacer 1 32-inch US #10/6mm circular needle (for garter hem)
spacer 1 32-inch US #7/4.5mm circular needle (for collar and front bands)
spacer 1 set US #7/4.5mm double-pointed needles (for sleeves)

Notions
spacer 6 stitch markers; 4 similar for raglan, 2 different for steek and beg of rnd
spacer 9 locking stitch markers or safety pins for buttonhole placement
spacer 2 stitch holders or waste yarn
spacer Yarn needle
spacer 5 yds of yarn for seaming steek; dk-weight or thinner (Color should match or complement MC)
spacer Eight 1 1/8 inch buttons
spacer One 1 1/2 inch button

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GAUGE

15 sts / 18 rows = 4" in chart patt in stockinette stitch, using largest needles, after blocking
17 sts / 32 rows = 4" in garter stitch, using smallest needles, after blocking
 

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

Sweater is knit in the round from the bottom up. SLEEVES are worked in the round, then sleeves and body are joined and the yoke is worked, shaped by raglan decreases. A steek is cut at center front. Stitches are picked up for collar, then for front bands. The stand-up collar is shaped using short rows.

Sweater is intended to be oversized, and worn with 5-7 inches of positive ease.

All stitches for colorwork chart are worked in knit (RS only). When working the charts, over longer stretches of one color, I recommend twisting the floats together behind the work.

Steeking:
Practice steeking on your gauge swatch.

Instructions for Kitchener stitch can be found here.

spacerCharts
The chart for this pattern is very large and fits on 2 letter-sized pages.
Click below, print the resulting pages and assemble top to bottom.

top bottom

DIRECTIONS
BODY
Using MC and middle-sized needles, CO 112[130, 140, 156, 174, 184, 198] sts. Pm and join to work in the rnd, taking care not to twist sts.

Next rnd: K to last 5 sts, place steek marker, k5.

Garter Rnd 1: P to steek marker, slip marker, k5.

Garter Rnd 2: K to steek marker, slip marker, k5.

Rep last 2 rows until work measures 2 inches from cast on, ending after Garter Rnd 1.

Inc rnd: K12[13, 10, 10, 10, 16, 15], (m1, k8[8, 8, 9, 9, 8, 8]) 12[14, 16, 16, 18, 20, 22] times, k4[5, 2, 2, 2, 8, 7]. 124[144, 156, 172, 192, 204, 220] sts.

Change to largest long circular needle.

Begin Color Pattern:
Rnd 1: Beginning with stitch 13[3, 21, 13, 27, 21, 13] of Body Chart, work colorwork pattern to steek marker, repeating 48-st chart repeat and ending with stitch 35[46, 27, 35, 21, 27, 35] of chart, sl marker, work Steek Chart.

Cont in chart patt as set, repeating Rows 1-118 of charts until piece measures 18[18, 18, 18.5, 18.5, 19, 19] inches from CO edge.

Divide for Underarms:
Next rnd: Patt 23[28, 31, 35, 40, 43, 47] sts for Right Front, patt 11 sts and slip these 11 sts to holder for underarm, k51[61, 67, 75, 85, 91, 99] sts for Back, patt 11 sts and slip these 11 sts holder for underarm, k23[28, 31, 35, 40, 43, 47] sts for Left Front, sl marker, k5 sts in steek pattern. 102[122, 134, 150, 170, 182, 198] sts rem; 51[61, 67, 75, 85, 91, 99] sts each for front and back (including steek sts).
Break yarns and set aside.

SLEEVES [Make 2]
Using MC and smallest dpns, CO 32[38, 38, 38, 48, 48, 48] sts.
Pm and join to work in the rnd, taking care not to twist sts.

Work in garter st in the rnd until cuff measures approx 1.75 inches, ending after a purl rnd.
Change to largest dpns.

Begin Color Pattern:
Rnd 1: Beginning with stitch 8[5, 5, 5, 1, 1, 1] of Body Chart, work colorwork pattern to end, ending with stitch 39[42, 42, 42, 47, 47,47] of chart.

Begin SLEEVE Shaping:
Inc Rnd: M1, work in chart patt to last st, m1, k1. 34[40, 40, 40, 50, 50, 50] sts.

Note: Change to shorter circular when comfortable to do so.

Cont in patt, incorporating increases into chart. AT THE SAME TIME, rep Inc Rnd every 4th rnd 0[0, 0, 5, 0, 0, 1] more times, every 6th rnd 5[1, 8, 7, 3, 6, 12] times, then every 8th rnd 4[7, 2, 0, 6, 5, 0] times. 52[56, 60, 64, 68, 72, 76] sts.

Cont even in patt until Sleeve measures approx. 17.75[17.75, 17.75, 18.25, 18.25, 18.75, 18.75] inches from CO edge, ending on the same Rnd of chart pattern as for Back.

Next rnd: Patt to last 6 sts, sl next 11 sts to holder for underarm. 41[45, 49, 53, 57, 61, 65] sts rem.

Join for Yoke:
Note: Read ahead! Raglan decreases occur at the same time as neck decreases.

Joining Rnd: Return to Body sts and, maintaining est pattern for each piece, patt 23[28, 31, 35, 40, 43, 47] sts across Right Front, pm, work across 41[45, 49, 53, 57, 61, 65] Sleeve sts, pm, patt 51[61, 67, 75, 85, 91, 99] sts across Back, pm, work across 41[45, 49, 53, 57, 61, 65] sts from other Sleeve, pm, patt 23[28, 31, 35, 40, 43, 47] sts across Left Front, sl marker, work steek chart to end. 184[212, 232, 256, 284, 304, 328] sts on needles.

Work 1 rnd even in patt.

Begin Raglan Decreases:
Raglan Dec Rnd: *Patt to 2 sts before marker, ssk, sl marker, k1, k2tog; rep from * 3 times more, patt to end. 8 sts dec; 176[204, 224, 248, 276, 296, 320] sts rem.
Rep Raglan Dec Rnd every rnd 0[0, 2, 4, 8, 10, 11] more times, every 4th rnd 2[0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0] times, then every other rnd 13[18, 18, 19, 18, 18, 20] times.

AT THE SAME TIME, when yoke measures 4[4.5, 5, 5.75, 6.25, 6.75, 7.75] inches from underarm, begin neck decreases.

Neck Decrease rnd: K2tog, work as est to 2 sts before steek marker, ssk, slip marker, work steek pattern to end. - 2 sts dec.

Rep Neck Decrease rnd every 4th rnd four times more.
When all decreases have been completed, 46[50, 54, 54, 58, 62, 62] sts rem; 2[4, 5, 6, 8, 9, 10] sts for each front, 9[7, 7, 5, 3, 3, 1] sts for each Sleeve, 19[23, 25, 27, 31, 33, 35] sts for Back, and 5 sts for steek.

Yoke should measure approx. 8[8.5, 9, 9.75, 10.25, 10.75, 11.75]inches from underarm after all decreases have been completed.

Cast off all sts.

Steek:
Using a sewing machine with zig-zag set to the width of 1 knit st and 0.5 mm length, sew a seam though the center of the 2nd steek stitch, then repeat for the 4th steek stitch. Alternatively, use the crochet steek method to crochet a steek in the 2nd and 4th steek sts, or, if preferred and to make cutting easier, the 1st and 5th steek sts.

Cut through the center of the 3rd steek stitch.

Fold along pattern edge and using lighter-weight yarn and tapestry needle, secure the steeked sts to the WS.

Collar
Using MC and smallest circular needle, and beginning at right front neck edge with RS facing, pick up and knit 46[50, 54, 54, 58, 62, 70] around cast off sts to right left neck edge.

Next row [WS]: Knit.

Inc Row: K3[5, 3, 3, 5, 3, 3], (m1, k5[5, 6, 6, 6, 7, 8]) 8 times, k3[5, 3, 3, 5, 3, 3]. -- 8 sts inc; 54[58, 62, 62, 66, 70, 78] sts.

Knit 16 rows.

BO all sts loosely on the WS.

Right Band
Using MC and smallest-sized needles, with RS facing and beg at bottom of Right Front, pick up and knit 8 sts along garter hem, pick up and knit 76[80, 82, 84, 88, 90, 94] sts along front edge to beginning of V shaped by decreases at neck edge, pm, pick up and knit 14 sts along neck edge to collar, then pick up and knit 10 sts along collar edge to neck.

Knit 12 rows.

Short row shaping:
Row 1 [WS]: K to marker, W&T.
Row 2 and all foll RS rows: Knit to end.
Row 3: K to 4 sts before marker, W&T.
Row 5: K to 8 sts before marker, W&T.
Row 7: K to 12 sts before marker, W&T.
Row 9: K to 16 sts before marker, W&T.
Row 11 [WS]: BO all sts loosely, picking up and working wraps with wrapped sts as you come to them.

Left Band
Using MC and smallest-sized needles, with RS facing and beg at collar edge of Left Front, pick up and 10 sts along collar edge, pick up and knit 14 sts along neck edge to bottom of V, pm, pick up and knit 76[80, 82, 84, 88, 90, 94] sts along front edge to bottom trim, then pick up and knit 8 sts along garter hem.
Knit 11 rows.

Short row shaping:
Row 1 [RS]: K to marker, W&T.
Row 2 and all foll WS rows: Knit to end.
Row 3: K to 4 sts before marker, W&T.
Row 5: K to 8 sts before marker, W&T.
Row 7: K to 12 sts before marker, W&T.
Row 9: K to 16 sts before marker, W&T.
Row 11 [RS]: BO all sts loosely, picking up and working wraps with wrapped sts as you come to them.

Button Loops
Using MC and smaller dpns, CO 2 sts.
Work i-cord button loop as follows:
Row 1: K2. Do not turn. Slide sts to other end of needle, bring yarn behind work on WS.
Rep Row 1 until i-cord measures approx. 1.15 inches. BO and break yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Work seven more button loops the same, then work one more button loop 1.25 inches long.

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FINISHING
Join underarms using Kitchener Stitch.
Block sweater to finished measurements.
Beginning at point where neck decreases begin on Right Front, using locking st markers or safety pins, mark location for eight evenly spaced button loops, then sew the eight shorter i-cords in place. Halfway between top button loop and neck edge, sew longer I-cord in place.
Lay sweater flat and mark button placement on left front, aligning with button loops. Sew largest button to topmost mark, then eight smaller buttons down left front.

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ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Maureen Moody is the proud mother of four, co-owner of a family business, and a part-time stylist in a salon. She lives on the East Coast.

When she isn't justifying her last yarn purchase to her husband, she is working on a new pattern.

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