Knitty: little purls of wisdom
Wildflower Yarns and Knitwear
Title
beauty shot

Tangy

About fifteen minutes after the photos of the Child's Middy Jumper landed in Amy Singer's
mailbox, she sent me a note riddled with exclamation points demanding a version for
grown-ups.
[Editor's note: Yes, I did.]

The Lion Brand Yarn Book of 1916 does, as it happens, include an adult middy -- but it's
worked in crochet. I thought the idea of a knitted adaptation was splendid, but the design
assignment would be most suited to someone who a) has a solid track record of designing attractive
women's fitted garments and b) is rather fonder of working acres of garter stitch than I.

Mercedes Tarasovich-Clark accepted the challenge. We consulted briefly about the
original patterns, fibers, and colors. She indicated a desire to make significant changes
that would update the piece while paying tribute to the original. I told her to run with it.

After all, the point was not period replica, but a vintage-inspired sweater for a modern
woman.
Franklin Habit
---
Shoreside began as a little bit of a challenge, a shake-up, a step outside of my comfort zone.

Amy sent me an email, saying, " I have a project that might suit you. It's a collaboration with someone pretty neat, but not your usual thing." Intriguing.

As we emailed further, I discovered that the collaboration was to translate Franklin Habit's Child's Middy Jumper pattern from Knitty Issue 40 into a women's garment, taking the garment from a basic child's boxy shape to a curvy, historically inspired fashion piece. I drew inspiration from the costumes of Downton Abbey, early Coco Chanel, and yarn pattern leaflets from the early 1900s, while studying Franklin's piece and the story behind it.

The construction of the original garment and Franklin's updated version is fascinating, and simple! Starting at the front hem, the piece is knit in garter stitch, adding sleeve stitches by casting on at each edge, and the later binding off those same stitches on the back side of the garment. The sailor collar is a straightforward split at the front neck, with a few extra stitches added to create a placket, and a contrast collar added along the neck edge.

On the women's version, I made a lot of tweaks to change boxy to curvy and to add fashionable details. The body was lengthened, removing the contrast stripe at the hem. Waist shaping was added as darts along the front and back. To avoid excess sleeve fabric, the sleeve stitches are cast on and bound off in a long stairstep technique, creating a gentle sleeve taper, and faux "sleeve cap" shaping is added along the imaginary armhole line. The collar is built around a sexy deep v-neck, with a bit of shaping to keep it flattering and stylish.

I could see any of the Crawley women snuggled in this pullover, taking in the salt air at the seaside,
hair swept back in the chill breeze.

spacer model: Abigail Goben
spacer photos: Franklin Habit
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SIZE
For women's garments: XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X]
[shown in S with XX ease]

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Chest: 30[34, 38, 42, 46.75, 50.75, 54.75] inches
Length: 24.5[25.5, 26.5, 27.5, 28.5, 29.5, 30.5] inches

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MATERIALS
Yarn

LB Collection Angora Merino [80% merino wool, 20% angora; 131yd/120m per 50g ball];
spacer Sangria; 8[9, 11, 12, 14, 16, 18] balls
spacer Smoked Pearl; 3 balls (all sizes)

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
spacer 40-inch US #6/4mm circular needle

Notions
spacer 2 stitch markers
spacer 2 locking stitch markers
spacer spare circular needle
spacer scrap yarn or 2 stitch holders
spacer yarn needle

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GAUGE

20 sts/36 rows (18 garter ridges) = 4" in garter stitch
 

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

This pullover is knit flat in one piece beginning at the bottom front hem, split for front neck and sleeves, then joined and worked down to bottom back hem. Shaping is worked simultaneously for the front neck, sleeve cast on, and shoulder, so be sure to read through the instructions for that section carefully before proceeding. Collar is begun as separate pieces, and then joined to the body at the back neck.

Length alterations to the body can easily be made by skipping some rows in the plain sections before or after each segment of waist shaping. Just be sure to mirror what you do on the front to do the same for the back. Sleeves can be lengthened or shortened by adding or removing stitches during the cast on segments at each side of the body. Again, just be sure to bind off as many stitches as you had cast on once you reach the back of the sweater!

DIRECTIONS
FRONT
With MC, CO 90[96, 102, 112, 126, 140, 146] sts. Do not join.

Work even in garter stitch (knit every row) for 37[37, 43, 47, 51, 59, 67] rows or 18[18, 21, 23, 25, 29, 33] ridges, ending after a RS row.

Next row [WS]: K22[24, 25, 28, 31, 35, 36], pm, k46[48, 52, 56, 64, 70, 74], pm, k to end.

Begin waist shaping:
Decrease row [RS]: K to m, sm, k2tog, k to 2 sts before m, ssk, sm, k to end.

Rep Decrease row every 4th row 7[8, 8, 9, 9, 9, 9] times more, and then every other row 4[4, 3, 2, 3 3, 3] times. 66[70, 78, 88, 100, 114, 120] sts.

Work even for 17[17, 17, 15, 15, 13, 13] rows or 8[8, 8, 7, 7, 6, 6] ridges, ending after a WS row.

Increase row [RS]: K to m, sm, M1L, k to m, M1R, sm, k to end.

Rep Increase row every 6[4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4] rows 4[7, 8, 8, 8, 6, 8] times more. 76[86, 96, 106, 118, 128, 138] sts. Remove shaping markers once all increases have been completed.

Work even until piece measures 15[15.5, 16.5, 17.5, 17.5, 18.5, 19] inches from CO edge, ending after a WS row.

Shape Left Front:
Note: Read ahead! Neck, shoulder and sleeve shaping are all worked at the same time.

Next row [RS]: K38[43, 48, 53, 59, 64, 69] sts for left front, place rem sts on holder for right front and turn.
Knit 1 WS row.
Decrease row [RS]: Knit to 3 sts before end of row, k2tog, k1.
Rep Decrease row every 4th row 20[20, 21, 21, 21, 23, 23] times more.
AT THE SAME TIME, when piece measures 18[18.5, 19, 19.5, 20, 20.5, 21] inches from CO edge, ending after a RS row, begin sleeve and shoulder shaping as foll:

Note: Shoulder shaping begins at the same time as the series of sleeve cast on segments; read through the entirety of the following paragraphs BEFORE proceeding.

Sleeve shaping set-up row [WS]: Knit to end, pm, CO 6[9, 2, 8, 2, 10, 10] sts.

CO 8 [7, 7, 6, 6, 5, 4] sts at the end of each foll WS row 7[8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 15] times more.
AT THE SAME TIME,
work shoulder shaping on 3rd [3rd, 3rd, 5th, 5th, 5th, 5th] row and every foll 4[4, 4, 6, 6, 6, 6] rows 12[13, 15, 11, 11, 12, 13] times more as follows:

Next row [RS]: K to marker, M1R, sm, work to end of row including any neck shaping.

Work in est shaping patterns until neck and shoulder shaping are complete. 92[101, 107, 111, 117, 123, 129] tot sts after all shaping is complete.

Work even in garter st until piece measures 6.5[7, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5] inches from underarm, ending after a WS row. Place all sts on hold on scrap yarn or holder, leaving shaping marker in place.

Shape Right Front:
With RS of Front facing, slip rem sts onto circ and join yarn at neck edge and knit two rows.
Decrease row [RS]: K1, ssk, knit to end.
Rep Decrease row every 4th row 20[20, 21, 21, 21, 23, 23] times more.

AT THE SAME TIME, when piece measures 18[18.5, 19, 19.5, 20, 20.5, 21] inches from CO edge, ending after a WS row, begin sleeve and shoulder shaping as foll:

Note: Shoulder shaping begins at the same time as the series of sleeve cast on segments; read through the entirety of the following paragraphs BEFORE proceeding.

Sleeve shaping set-up row [RS]: Knit to end including any neck shaping, pm, CO 6[9, 2, 8, 2, 10, 10] sts.
CO 8 [7, 7, 6, 6, 5, 4] sts at the end of each foll RS row 7[8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 15] times more.
AT THE SAME TIME,
work shoulder shaping every on 3rd[3rd, 3rd, 5th, 5th, 5th, 5th] row and every foll 4[4, 4, 6, 6, 6, 6] rows 12[13, 15, 11, 11, 12, 13] times more as follows:

Next row [RS]: K to marker including any neck shaping, sm, M1L, work to end of row including any sleeve shaping.

Work in est shaping patterns until neck and shoulder shaping are complete. 92[101, 107, 111, 117, 123, 129] total sts after all shaping is complete.

Work even in garter st until piece measures 6.5[7, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5] inches from underarm, ending after a WS row and leaving shaping marker in place. Slip sts to spare circular needle.

BACK:
Slip left front and sleeve sts onto working circular needle and with RS facing, join yarn at sleeve edge.

Next Row [RS]: Knit across left front and sleeve sts, CO 42[42, 44, 44, 44, 48, 48] sts, knit across right front and sleeve sts. 226[244, 258, 266, 278, 294, 306] sts.

Knit 5[5, 3, 1, 3, 1, 1] rows.

Shape shoulders:
Decrease row [RS]: K to 2 sts before m, k2tog, sm, k to m, sm, ssk, k to end.
Rep Decrease row every 4[4, 4, 6, 6, 6, 6] rows 12[13, 15, 11, 11, 12, 13] times more.
AT THE SAME TIME
, when sleeve measures 4.75[5, 5.25, 5.5, 5.75, 6, 6] inches from back neck cast on, starting with a RS row, begin sleeve bind offs as foll:

BO 8[7, 7, 6, 6, 5, 4] sts at beg of next 14[16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 30] rows, and then BO 6[9, 2, 8, 2, 10, 10] sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows.

76[86, 96, 106, 118, 128, 138] sts after all shaping is complete. Remove shaping markers once shoulder shaping is complete.

Make a note of how many rows were worked on the sweater front between the end of the bust increase shaping and the underarm. Cont to knit every row for the same number of rows as noted, ending after a RS row.

Next row [WS]: K30[32, 34, 37, 42, 46, 48], pm, k16[22, 28, 32, 34, 36, 42], pm, k to end.

Decrease row [RS]: K to m, sm, k2tog, k to 2 sts before m, ssk, sm, k to end.

Rep Decrease row every 6[4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4] rows 4[7, 8, 8, 8, 6, 8] times more. 66[70, 78, 88, 100, 114, 120] sts.

Work even for 17[17, 17, 15, 15, 13, 13] rows or 8[8, 8, 7, 7, 6, 6] ridges, ending after a WS row.

Increase row [RS]: K to m, sm, M1L, k to m, M1R, sm, knit to end.

Rep Increase row every other row 3[3, 2, 1, 2, 2, 2] times more, then every 4th row 8[9, 9, 10, 10, 10, 10] times. 90 [96, 102, 112, 126, 140, 146] sts.
Remove shaping markers.

Work even in garter stitch (knit every row) for 37[37, 43, 47, 51, 59, 67] rows or 18[18, 21, 23, 25, 29, 33] ridges, ending after a WS row.
BO all sts.

Cuffs:
With RS facing and CC, pick up & knit 1 st for each garter bump along sleeve cuff. Work in garter stitch for 4 inches. BO all sts.

COLLAR FRONTS (Make 2)
Note: Collar fronts are constructed identically, with the terms RS and WS used to help orient your knitting while you work on each piece. Each collar front will end on a different row to then mirror each other along the neck edge, i.e.- on one piece, the RS becomes the WS once it is flipped over.

Collar tie:
With CC, CO 2 sts.
Row 1: Sl1 wyif, kfb.
Rows 2-6: Sl1 wyif, kfb, k to end.
Row 7: Sl1 wyif, k to end. 8 sts.
Repeat Row 7 until collar tie measure 8.5 inches long, or to desired length. Place a locking st marker on edge of piece.

Collar shaping:
Row 1 [RS]: Sl1 wyif, k1, m1, k to end.
Row 2 [WS]: Knit.
Row 3: Sl1 wyif, k to end.
Row 4: Knit.
Rows 5 & 6: Repeat Rows 3 & 4.
Rep last six rows 13[14, 14, 14, 15, 15, 15] times more. 22[23, 23, 23, 24, 24, 24] sts.

Work plain in est pattern until piece measures 9.5[10, 10, 10, 11, 11, 11.5] inches from locking marker, ending right front collar with a RS row, and left front collar with a WS row.

Place all sts on holder and repeat for other collar front.

Back collar:
Slip left front sts onto circ with RS facing. With CC, sl1 wyif, k across rem left collar sts, pm, pick up and knit 42[42, 44, 44, 44, 48, 48] sts along back neck, pm, slip right collar sts to spare circ with WS facing and knit these sts. 86[88, 90, 90, 92, 96, 96] sts.

Back neck shaping:
Decrease row
[WS]: Sl1 wyif, k to m, sm, ssk, k to 2 sts before m, k2tog, sm, k to end.
Next row: Sl1 wyif, knit to end.
Rep last two rows 9 times more. 66[68, 70, 70, 72, 76, 76] sts.
Work even in est slipped selvage and garter stitch pattern until piece measures 7[7, 7.5, 7.5, 8, 8, 8] inches from back neck. BO all sts.

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FINISHING
Sew sleeve and side seams, using MC yarn along body seams and CC yarn along the cuffs. Seam collar fronts to front neck edge using mattress stitch. Weave in all ends. Block to finished measurements, shaping collar and turning up contrast cuffs.

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ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Mercedes Tarasovich-Clark knits, writes, and hula hoops in Birmingham, AL.

Visit her online.

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