INTRODUCTION

Cammac

by Susan King

A couple years ago, I knitted a wonderful colorwork sweater from a complex pattern in gorgeous colors of Manos del Uruguay Silk Blend. This yarn is a light, soft DK single-ply with deep saturated semi-solid colors that has lovely drape when knit at a slightly looser gauge than is typical for DK. The leftover yarn was still so beautiful, sitting in a little nest of hand-wound balls, that I decided I had to find a project that would let me make use of, and showcase, every scrap I had. Being an analytical type, I pulled out my kitchen scale, weighed all the bits, and decided that with an extra ball of black, I could create a complete sweater! I arranged and re-arranged all the little balls in circles until I liked the order of the colors. I calculated a bit more and this lovely sequence of varied stripes emerged.

I wanted the colors to be the main event, so I chose a simple, flattering sweater shape and construction; top-down raglan with 4-stitch increase lines, and a relaxed, drapey body. To keep the simple look elegant instead of sloppy, I tapered the sleeves to slim-fit wrists, with the stripe sequence continuing right to the end of the ribbing. Continuing on the simple but elegant theme, I crafted a fitted low-crew neckline that is flattering alone, and also easily supports a scarf or necklace.

As I worked on this design, I thought about the satisfaction that comes from making something lovely from what we have on hand; about how, with a little extra effort and creativity in the planning, we can find a way for every ingredient to make a valuable contribution to the whole, and that the end result is infinitely more beautiful, comfortable, and special as a result. I named this sweater Cammac after an amateur music organization where my friends and I make music in exactly the same spirit.

model: Susan King, Graham Hunt

photos: Julian Hunt, Kaitlyn CW Photography

SIZE

 XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X]
shown in size S with 5 inches/12.5 cm of ease

Sizing note: The amount of ease for each size is calculated by percentage rather than adding a consistent amount of ease to each size. Consult the finished measurements and the schematic when choosing your preferred size.

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Chest/Bust:  35.25[40, 44.75, 49.5, 54.5, 59.25, 63.25, 68, 72.75] inches / 89.5[101.5, 113.5, 125.5, 138.5, 150.5, 160.5, 172.5, 185] cm
Length:  23.25[23.75, 24, 24.25, 24.5, 24.75, 25.5, 25.75, 26] inches / 59[60.5, 61, 61.5, 62, 63, 65, 65.5, 66] cm

MATERIALS

Yarn
Manos del Uruguay Silk Blend DK [70% Merino, 30% silk; 150 yd/137 m per 50 g skein];
[MC] Black 3008; 2[3, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4] skeins
[CC1] Pewter 3064; 1 skein
[CC2] Pine 3206; 2[2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 4] skeins
[CC3] Henna 3049; 1 skein
[CC4] Bing cherry 300M; 2[2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 4] skeins
[CC5] Steel 3029; 1[1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2] skeins
[CC6] Midnight 3011; 1 skein
[CC7] Nickel 3031; 1[1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2] skeins

Yarn characteristics: The sample sweater in size S weighs 350 g, and used approximately: 95g MC, 20g CC1, 75g CC2, 20g CC3, 75g CC4, 35g CC5, 20g CC6, 30g CC7. Any DK weight yarns will work.

Notions
8 stitch markers
2 stitch holders or waste yarn
yarn needle

GAUGE

20 sts/29 rounds = 4 inches/10 cm in stockinette stitch with larger needles

PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

This pullover is worked seamlessly from the top down. The back neckline and the top of the raglan sleeves are worked back and forth with the MC, shaping the neckline, before joining in the round to work to the underarms and beginning the stripe sequence. Once raglan shaping has been completed, the sleeve stitches are placed on holders and the Body is worked to the ribbed hem. Sleeves are then worked separately from the top down with sleeve shaping, continuing the stripe sequence to the end of the cuff ribbing. A neckband is picked up from the neck edge and worked in the round in rib.

Stripe Sequence
Round 1: Work 1 round in CC1.
Rounds 2-9: Work 8 rounds in CC2.
Rounds 10-11: Work 2 rounds in CC3.
Rounds 12-19: Work 8 rounds in CC4.
Rounds 20-23: Work 4 rounds in CC5.
Rounds 24-25: Work 2 rounds in CC6.
Rounds 26-28: Work 3 rounds in CC7.
Rounds 29-31: Work 3 rounds in MC.
Repeat these Rounds 1-31 for patt.

K2, P2 Rib
Round 1: (K2, p2) to end of round.
Rep this round for patt.

DIRECTIONS

YOKE
With MC, larger 32-inch/80-cm circ, and using the long-tail cast on method, CO 64[68, 72, 74, 80, 82, 82, 88, 90] sts. Do not join.

Set-up row [WS]: P1, pm, p4, pm, p 10[10, 12, 12, 14, 14, 14, 16, 16] , pm, p4, pm, p 26[30, 30, 32, 34, 36, 36, 38, 40] , pm, p4, pm, p  10[10, 12, 12, 14, 14, 14, 16, 16] , pm, p4, pm, p1.

Shape neck:
Raglan inc row [RS]: *K to m, M1L, sl m, k4, sl m, M1R; repeat from * 3 times more, k to end. 8 sts increased.
Next row [WS]: P to end.
Repeat last 2 rows 3[4, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 6] more times. 96[108, 112, 114, 120, 130, 130, 136, 146] sts.

Neck and raglan inc row [RS]: *K to m, M1L, sm, k4, sm, M1R; repeat from * 3 times more, k to end, CO 1 st. 9 sts increased.
Neck inc row [WS]: P to end, CO 1 st. 1 st increased.

Repeat last 2 rows 4[4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6] more times. 146[158, 162, 174, 180, 190, 200, 206, 216] sts.

Joining round [RS]: *K to m, M1L, sl m, k4, sl m, M1R; repeat from * 3 times more, k to end, CO 14[18, 18, 18, 20, 22, 20, 22, 24] sts. Join to work in the round, k to next marker. This is the new beg of round at the left front raglan. 168[184, 188, 200, 208, 220, 228, 236, 248] sts: 30[32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46] sts for each Sleeve, 46[52, 52, 56, 58, 62, 64, 66, 70] sts each for Front and Back, and 4 sets of 4-st raglans.

Next round [RS]: K to end.

Continue raglan shaping:

Sizes XS-4X only:
Raglan inc round: *Sl m, k4, sl m, M1R, K to m, M1L; repeat from * 3 times more. 8 sts increased.
Even round: Knit.
Repeat last 2 rounds 3[2, 3, 2, 3, 2, 2, 2, -] more times. 200[208, 220, 224, 240, 244, 252, 260, -] sts.

Size 5X only:
Raglan inc round: *Sl m, k4, sl m, M1R, K to m, M1L; repeat from * 3 times more. 8 sts increased.

Repeat Raglan inc round 5 more times. 296 sts.

Begin Stripe Sequence (All Sizes):
Cut MC. Joining and breaking colors as indicated by pattern, begin Stripe Sequence, AT THE SAME TIME, continue raglan shaping as follows:

Sizes XS-3X only:
Work Raglan inc round.
Next round: Knit.
Repeat last 2 rounds 11[13, 9, 7, 4, 2, 1, -, -] more times. 296[320, 300, 288, 280, 268, 268, -, -] sts.

Sizes M-5X only:
Work Raglan inc round.
Repeat Raglan inc round  -[-, 3, 7, 13, 23, 27, 33, 33] more times. -[-, 332, 352, 392, 460, 492, 532, 568] sts.

Body inc round: *(Sl m, k to m) 3 times, sl m, M1R, K to m, M1L; rep from * once more. 4 sts increased.
Repeat Body inc round -[-, 3, 5, 5, 1, 1, 1, 1] more times. -[-, 348, 376, 416, 468, 500, 540, 576] sts.

Size XS only:
Sleeve inc round: *Sl m, k4, sl m, M1R, K to m, M1L, sl m, k4, sl m, k to m; repeat from * once more. 4 sts increased.
Repeat Sleeve inc round once more. 304 sts.

Separate Body and Sleeves (All Sizes continue here):
Next round: Remove m, k2, place next 70[70, 74, 78, 88, 104, 112, 122, 130] sts on holder (Sleeve sts + 2 sts from each raglan), removing markers; CO 3[5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12] sts, pm, CO 3[5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12] ] sts, k2, remove m, k 78[86, 96, 106, 116, 126, 134, 144, 154] across Back, remove m, k2, place next 70[70, 74, 78, 88, 104, 112, 122, 130] sts on holder (Sleeve sts + 2 sts from each raglan), removing markers; CO 6[10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24] sts, k2, remove m, k 78[86, 96, 106, 116, 126, 134, 144, 154] across Front, k to m at center of underarm. This is the new beg of round. 176[200, 224, 248, 272, 296, 316, 340, 364] sts.

BODY
Continuing in Stripe Sequence as established, work in St st for 96 rounds, or until body is 1.5 inches/3.5 cm shorter than desired length. Cut yarn.

Change to smaller 36 inch/80 cm circ and MC.

Hemline Ribbing
Work 12 rounds in K2, P2 rib.
BO loosely in rib patt.

SLEEVES
Round 1: Using larger needles for working a small circumference in the round and continuing in Stripe Sequence as est, starting at center of underarm, pick up and knit 3[5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12] sts, knit across 70[70, 74, 78, 88, 104, 112, 122, 130] sts from Sleeve holder, pick up and knit 3[5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12] sts to center of underarm, pm for beg of round. 76[80, 86, 92, 104, 122, 132, 144, 154] sts.

Knit 3[4, 3, 3, 2, 1, 1, 1, 1] round(s).
Sleeve dec round: K1, SSK, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 2 sts decreased.
Repeat last 4[5, 4, 4, 3, 2, 2, 2, 2] rounds 21[21, 24, 25, 31, 38, 43, 47, 52] more times. 32[36, 36, 40, 40, 44, 44, 48, 48] sts.

Work even until sleeve measures 14.5[15, 15, 15.5, 15.5, 16, 16, 16.5, 16.5] inches / 37[38, 38, 39.5, 39.5, 40.5, 40.5, 42, 42] cm, or 2 inches/5 cm shorter than desired length.

Change to smaller needles.

Sleeve Ribbing
Cont in Stripe Sequence, work 16 rounds in K2, P2 rib.
BO loosely in rib.

NECKLINE
With RS facing, using larger 16 inch/40 cm circ and MC, pick up and knit 4 sts from front right raglan cast-on, pick up and knit 10[10, 12, 12, 14, 14, 14, 16, 16] from right sleeve cast-on, pick up and knit 4 sts from back right raglan cast-on, pick up and knit 26[30, 30, 32, 34, 36, 36, 38, 40] sts from back neck cast-on, pick up and knit 4 sts from back left raglan cast-on, pick up and knit 10[10, 12, 12, 14, 14, 14, 16, 16] sts from left sleeve cast-on, pick up and knit 4 sts from front left raglan cast-on, pick up and knit 10[10, 10, 11, 11, 13, 14, 14, 14] sts down left front neck, pick up and knit 14[18, 18, 18, 20, 22, 20, 22, 24] across front neck cast-on, pick up and knit 10[10, 10, 11, 11, 13, 14, 14, 14] sts up right front. Pm for beg of rnd. 96[104, 108, 112, 120, 126, 128, 136, 140] sts.

Work 4 rounds in K2, P2 rib.

Change to smaller 16 inch/40 cm circ.

Work 4 more rounds in K2, P2 rib.
BO loosely in rib.

FINISHING

Weave in ends, closing any gaps formed by color changes. Block to measurements.

A – Neck width:  6.75[7.5, 7.5, 8.5, 8.75, 9.25, 9.5, 10, 10.5] inches / 17[19, 19, 21.5, 22, 23.5, 24, 25.5, 26.5] cm
B – Neck depth: 2.75[3, 3, 3.25, 3.25, 3.5, 3.75, 3.75, 4.25] inches / 7[7.5, 7.5, 8.5, 8.5, 9, 9.5, 9.5, 11] cm
C – Yoke depth:  7.5[8, 8.25, 8.5, 8.75, 9, 9.75, 10, 10.25] inches / 19[20.5, 21, 21.5, 22, 23, 25, 25.5, 26] cm
D – Bust circumference: 35.25[40, 44.75, 49.5, 54.5, 59.25, 63.25, 68, 72.75] inches / 89.5[101.5, 113.5, 125.5, 138.5, 150.5, 160.5, 172.5, 185] cm
E – Body length: 15 inches / 38 cm
F – Upper arm circumference:  15.25[16, 17.25, 18.5, 20.75, 24.5, 26.5, 28.75, 30.75] inches / 38.5[40.5, 44, 47, 52.5, 62, 67.5, 73, 78] cm
G – Cuff circumference (before rib):  6.5[7.25, 7.25, 8, 8, 8.75, 8.75, 9.5, 9.5] inches / 16.5[18.5, 18.5, 20.5, 20.5, 22, 22, 24, 24] cm
H – Sleeve length:  16.5[17, 17, 17.5, 17.5, 18, 18, 18.5, 18.5] inches / 42[43, 43, 44.5, 44.5, 45.5, 45.5, 47, 47] cm

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Susan is an engineer, writer, teacher, mother, maker, volunteer, and rural resident. What she likes best is doing something new, so in that vein, this is her first published pattern after years of improv.

Pattern & images © 2020 Susan King.