Potamoi, a free knitting pattern from Knitty.com. Free knitting pattern for a reverse stockinette sock with simple charted stitch pattern .
INTRODUCTION
Potamoi
by Ema Marinescu
Potamoi – the water gods and goddesses of Greek mythology – are the namesake of these socks, inspired by the gorgeous aquatic colorway.
The socks are knitted entirely inside out to keep purling to a minimum. Watch as the pattern emerges on the inside of the knitting!
They’re knitted toe-up, starting with Judy’s magic cast on and yarn over increases knitted through the back loop. They also feature a gusset and a reinforced heel flap and gusset, which makes for a great fitting pair that your feet will be happy to be in.
photos: Ema Marinescu
SIZE
Adult S[M, L]
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Foot Circumference: 7[8, 9] inches/ 18[20.5, 23] cm
Foot Length: adjustable
Leg Length: 5 inches/13 cm (adjustable)
Note: Choose a size with approximately 0.5 inches / 1 cm negative ease.
MATERIALS
Yarn
Martin’s Lab BFL Soft Sock [100% Bluefaced Leicester; 437 yd/400 m per 3.53 oz/100 g skein]; color: Thicket; 1[1, 1] skeins
Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below - every knitter's gauge is unique]
US #0/2mm needles for small circumference in the round: traditional or flexible DPNs, 1 long or 2 shorter circulars, as you prefer
Notions
cable needle
yarn needle
GAUGE
34 sts/46 rounds = 4 inches/10 cm in stockinette stitch
36 sts/46 rows rounds = 4 inches/10 cm in pattern stitch
PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]
The socks are worked toe-up, inside out. In the instructions below, we are using RS and WS to indicate the way the sock is held while worked: the RS of the sock is mostly knits, the WS mostly purls. When worn, these are reversed.
Ptog: purl together the stitch and all the yarnover strands.
YO1S: Bring yarn forward, slip next st purlwise, bring yarn over right needle.
YO2S: Bring yarn forward, slip next st and its accompanying yarnover purlwise, bring yarn over right needle.
YO3S: Bring yarn forward, slip next st and its 2 accompanying yarnovers purlwise, bring yarn over right needle.
LC (worked on working WS): Slip next st onto cable needle and hold in front, knit the next st, then knit the st from the cable needle
RC (worked on working WS): Slip next st onto cable needle and hold in back, knit the next st, then knit the st from the cable needle
CHARTS
Work from chart or written instructions as you prefer.
Instep Pattern: If working from Chart, start and end at the letters corresponding to your size, and work the 8-stitch repeat 3 times. The same symbol is used for the YO1S, YO2S and YO3S. The first time it’s worked, it’s YO1S, the second time, YO2S, the third time, YO3S.
Instep Pattern – Size S
Round 2: K1, [YO2S, k3, p1, k3] 3 times, YO2S, k1.
Round 3: K1, [YO3S, k3, p1, k3] 3 times, YO3S, k1.
Round 4: K1, [ptog, k3, p1, k3] 3 times, ptog, k1.
Rounds 5, 6, 7: K1, [p1, k3] 6 times, p1, k1.
Round 8: K1, [p1, k3, YO1S, k3] 3 times, p1, k1.
Round 9: K1, [p1, k3, YO2S, k3] 3 times, p1, k1.
Round 10: K1, [p1, k3, YO3S, k3] 3 times, p1, k1.
Round 11: K1, [p1, k3, ptog, k3], p1, k1.
Rounds 12, 13, 14: K1, [p1, k3] 6 times, p1, k1.
Instep Pattern – Size M
Round 1: K3, [YO1S, k3, p1, k3] 3 times, YO1S, k3.
Round 2: K3, [YO2S, k3, p1, k3] 3 times, YO2S, k3.
Round 3: K3, [YO3S, k3, p1, k3] 3 times, YO3S, k3.
Round 4: K3, [ptog, k3, p1, k3] 3 times, ptog, k3.
Rounds 5, 6, 7: K3, [p1, k3] 7 times.
Round 8: K3, [p1, k3, YO1S, k3] 3 times, p1, k3.
Round 9: K3, [p1, k3, YO2S, k3] 3 times, p1, k3.
Round 10: K3, [p1, k3, YO3S, k3] 3 times, p1, k3.
Round 11: K3, [p1, k3, ptog, k3], p1, k3.
Rounds 12, 13, 14: K3, [p1, k3] 7 times.
Instep Pattern – Size L
Round 1: K1, [p1, k3, YO1S, k3] 4 times, p1, k1.
Round 2: K1, [p1, k3, YO2S, k3] 4 times, p1, k1.
Round 3: K1, [p1, k3, YO3S, k3] 4 times p1, k1.
Round 4: K1, [p1, k3, ptog, k3] 4 times, p1, k1.
Rounds 5, 6, 7: K1, [p1, k3] 8 times, p1, k1.
Round 8: K1, [YO1S, k3, p1, k3] 4 times, p1, k1.
Round 9: K1, [YO2S, k3, p1, k3] 4 times, p1, k1.
Round 10: K1, [YO3S, k3, p1, k3] 4 times, p1, k1.
Round 11: K1, [ptog, k3, p1, k3] 4 times, p1, k1.
Rounds 12, 13, 14: K1, [p1, k3] 8 times, p1, k1.
Heel Pattern: For ease of reading, we have taken a slight liberty with the chart symbols. Pay careful attention to the stitch definitions. As noted in the instructions, you’re working inside out. The WS of the heel flap rows are worked knitwise, and with the cables, the RS is worked as all purls.
Heel Pattern – Size S
Row 2 [WS]: [RC, k1, LC, k1] to last st, k1.
Row 4: [K1, LC, k1, RC] to last st, k1.
Row 6: [RC, k1, LC, k1] to last st, k1.
Row 8: K1, [k1, RC, k1, LC] to end.
Heel Pattern – Size M
Row 2 [WS]: [RC, k1, LC, k1] to last 5 sts, RC, k1, LC.
Row 4: K1, [LC, k1, RC, k1] to last 4 sts, LC, k2.
Row 6: [RC, k1, LC, k1] to last 5 sts, RC, k1, LC.
Row 8: K1, [k1, RC, k1, LC] to last 4 sts, k1, RC, k1.
Heel Pattern – Size L
Row 2 [WS]: [RC, k1, LC, k1] to last 3 sts, RC, k1.
Row 4: K1, [LC, k1, RC, k1] to last 2 sts, LC.
Row 6: [RC, k1, LC, k1] to last 3 sts, RC, k1.
Row 8: K1, [k1, RC, k1, LC] to last 2 sts, k2.
Leg Pattern
Round 1: [p1, k3, YO1S, k3] 4(5, 6) times, p1, k2, YO1S, k2, [p1, k3, YO1S, k3] 2 times.
Round 2: [p1, k3, YO2S, k3] 4(5, 6) times, p1, k2, YO2S, k2, [p1, k3, YO2S, k3] 2 times.
Round 3: [p1, k3, YO3S, k3] 4(5, 6) times, p1, k2, YO3S, k2, [p1, k3, YO3S, k3] 2 times.
Round 4: [p1, k3, ptog, k3] 4(5, 6) times, p1, k2, ptog, k2, [p1, k3, ptog, k3] 2 times.
Rounds 5, 6, 7: [p1, k3] 8 times, [p1, k2] 2 times, [p1, k3] 4 times.
Round 8: [YO1S, k3, p1, k3] 4(5, 6) times, YO1S, k2, p1, k2, [YO1S, k3, p1, k3] 2 times.
Round 9: [YO2S, k3, p1, k3] 4(5, 6) times, YO2S, k2, p1, k2, [YO2S, k3, p1, k3] 2 times.
Round 10: [YO3S, k3, p1, k3] 4(5, 6) times, YO3S, k2, p1, k2, [YO3S, k3, p1, k3] 2 times.
Round 11: [ptog, k3, p1, k3] 4(5, 6) times, ptog, k2, p1, k2, [ptog, k3, p1, k3] 2 times.
Rounds 12, 13, 14: [p1, k3] 8 times, [p1, k2] 2 times, [p1, k3] 4 times.
DIRECTIONS
Toe
Using Judy’s Magic Method, CO 14 sts – 7 sts each side. Distribute sts across needles as you prefer and join for working in the round, marking the start and the midpoint of the round with markers, or by needle placement.
Round 1: Knit.
Round 2: (K1, yo, k to 1 st before midpoint of round, yo, k2, yo, k to 1 st before end of round. 4 sts increased.
Round 3: (K1, k1tbl, k to 1 st before midpoint of round, k1tbl, k2, k1tbl, k to 1 st before end of round.
Repeat Rounds 2-3 9[11, 13] more times. 54[62, 70] sts.
Foot
Set up round: K 1[0, 1] , p 1[0, 1] , (k3, p1) 6[7, 8] times, k to end of rnd.
Next Round: Work Potamoi stitch pattern across 27[31, 35] sts, knit to end of rnd.
Continue as est until foot measures 3[3.5, 4] inches/ 7.5[9, 10] cm less than desired foot length, ending as follows:
Size S: Make sure you end on round 1, 6, 7, 8, 13 or 14.
Size M: Make sure you end on round 2, 3, 4, 9, 10 or 11.
Size L: Make sure you end on round 5, 6, 7, 12, 13 or 14.
Gusset
Round 1: Work instep in patt as set; k1, yo, k to 1 before last st, yo, k1. 2 sts increased.
Round 2: Work instep in patt as set; k1, k1 tbl, k to 1 before last st, k1 tbl, k1.
Repeat Rounds 1-2 9[11, 13] more times. 74[86, 98] sts total; 47[55, 63] sts for sole.
Make a note of the last pattern row worked on the instep.
Heel
Important note: pattern is worked here with knit side at RS. When wearing, the sock is inside out, and the purl side is the "right" side. We’re sticking with the usual RS/WSs here for convenience sake, and to make the charts easier to read.
Row 1 [RS]: Work instep in patt as set, k 36[42, 48] , w&t.
Row 2 [WS]: P 25[29, 33] , w&t.
Row 3: K 23[27, 31] , w&t.
Row 4: P 21[25, 29] , w&t.
Row 5: K 19[23, 27] , w&t.
Row 6: P 17[21, 25] , w&t.
Row 7: K 15[19, 23] , w&t.
Row 8: P 13[17, 21] , w&t.
Row 9: K 11[15, 19] , w&t.
Row 10: P 9[13, 17] , w&t.
Row 11: K 7[11, 15] , w&t.
Row 12: P 5[9, 13] , w&t. Size S ends here.
Row 13: K -[7, 11] , w&t.
Row 14: P -[5, 9] , w&t. Size M ends here.
Row 15: K -[-, 7] , w&t.
Row 16: P -[-, 5] , w&t.
All sizes resume:
Next row [RS]: Sl1, knit 15[17, 19] , working the wrapped sts together with their wraps; work ssk on the last wrapped st and the first of the gusset sts. Turn. 1 st decreased. Turn work.
Next row [WS]: Sl 1, purl 25[29, 33] , working the wrapped sts together with their wraps; work p2tog on the last wrapped st and the first of the gusset sts. Turn. 1 st decreased. Turn work.
Important Note: Recall that WS/RS here refer to the working side of the pattern. This means that in the following rows, the "RS" rows are purled, and the WS rows are worked in a knitted cable pattern.
Heel Flap Row 1 [RS]: Sl1, work Heel Pattern across 25[29, 33] sts, ssk.
Heel Flap Row 2 [WS]: Sl1 wyif, work Heel Pattern, p2tog.
Repeat Heel Flap Rows 1–2 until all gusset sts have been worked. 54[62, 70] sts remain.
Next row [RS]: Sl1, work Heel Pattern across 25[29, 33] sts , sl1, pick up the bar between the last st worked, and the next stitch (the first instep st) and ssk them together with slipped st (to avoid hole). Resume working in the round.
Next round: K 5[3, 1] . This is the new start of round. Place a marker or rearrange sts as you prefer. Work next round of Potamoi Leg stitch pattern over 22[28, 34] sts, pick up loop between last worked st and next st and k2tog (to avoid hole), continue working Potamoi Leg stitch pattern to end of round.
Continue working Potamoi Leg stitch pattern.
Continue in patts as set until leg measures 1.5 inches/4 cm less than the desired length. End on round 5, 6, 7, 12, 13 or 14 of the Potamoi Leg stitch pattern.
Cuff
Round 1: (K1, p1) around.
Work 10 rounds as set.
BO as follows: K1, *k1, return sts to left needle without twisting and k2tog-tbl; repeat from * until all sts have been worked. Cut yarn and pull through final st to secure.
FINISHING
Turn socks inside out. Soak in lukewarm water and lay flat to dry. Weave in ends.
ABOUT THE DESIGNER
Ema Marinescu loves long walks in the pine forests near her house, gardening, baking bread and making sure that everyone around her has all the hand-knit socks they will ever need during their lifetime.
Find her on Ravelry.
Pattern & images © 2020 Ema Marinescu.