Janus, a free knitting pattern from Knitty.com.

INTRODUCTION

Janus

beauty shot

by Alma Beck

Tangy

This two-in-one vest makes a great travel companion. On one side, vertical lines of stockinette stitches in the main color float on a garter stitch base, spots of the contrast color peeking through. Turn the vest inside out, and the vertical lines are in the contrast color, with spots of the main color peeking through. The magic comes from working flat on circular needles. You work 2 rows of a simple slip-stitch pattern with one yarn, push all the stitches to the other end of the circular needle, and work two slip-stitch rows from that side with the other yarn. The garter ridge bands that form the edgings and vertical insertions are worked as you knit the vest, so very little finishing is required.

spacer model: Hannah Clark, Alma Beck
spacer photos: Alma Beck

SIZE

Women's XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X]
shown in size L with 2 inches/5cm at underarm above; 1 inch/2.5 cm of ease at underarm below

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Chest/Bust: 32[36, 41, 44, 48, 53, 56, 61, 65] inches/ 81[91.5, 104, 112, 122, 134.5, 142, 155, 165] cm
Length: 22.5[23, 23, 23.5, 23.5, 24, 24, 24.5, 24.5] inches/ 57[58.5, 58.5, 59.5, 59.5, 61, 61, 62, 62] cm

MATERIALS

Yarn
Malabrigo Rios [100% merino wool; 210yd/192m per 100g skein]
[MC] Black (RIO195); 2[2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4] skeins
[CC] Leo (RIO282); 2[2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 5] skeins

Yarn Characteristics
The sample shown uses a worsted-weight 4-ply wool yarn. Pattern looks best if MC is a dark solid or semi-solid color and CC is a lighter solid, semi-solid, or subtly variegated yarn.

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below - every knitter's gauge is unique]
US #9/5.5 mm circular needle, 24 inches/60cm or longer for sizes XS-L; 30 inches/75 cm or longer for sizes XL-5X

Notions
10 stitch markers
medium stitch holder or scrap yarn for shoulder stitches.
safety pin or short length of scrap yarn
yarn needle
Optional: 12 ¾-inch/2cm buttons: 6 for MC side & 6 for CC side

GAUGE

24 sts/28 rows = 4 inches/10 cm in slip-stitch pattern stitch
19 sts/24 rows = 4 inches/10 cm in stockinette stitch

PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

Construction method: Vest is worked in one piece, starting at the bottom front and ending at the bottom back. Decorative buttons join the sides.

Techniques

Cable cast-on
Slipping stitches: Stitches are always slipped purlwise; the instructions are specific about where the yarn is to be held.
Swatching in Pattern
To work gauge swatch, cast on 29 sts with MC. Drop MC. Slide stitches to other end of needle. Join CC, and, leaving tail, begin working Row 1.

Row 1 [WS, with CC]: K1, (k3, sl1wyif) to last 4 sts, k4. Turn.
Row 2 [RS, with CC]: K1, (k1, p1, k1, sl1wyib) to last 4 sts, k1, p1, k2. Slide stitches to the other end of needles.
With MC
Row 3 [RS, with MC]: K2, (sl1wyif, k3) to last 3 sts, sl1wyif, k2. Turn.
Row 4 [WS, with MC]: K2, (sl1wyib, k1, p1, k1) to last 3 sts, sl1wyib, k2. Slide stitches to the other end of needles.

Repeat Rows 1-4 until swatch is about 5 or 6 inches/12-15 cm long. Bind off. Wash and lay flat to dry before measuring.

DIRECTIONS

Using MC, cable cast-on method, cast on 5 sts, pm, CO 5[9, 13, 13, 17, 21, 25, 29, 29] sts, pm, CO 4 sts, pm, CO 9[9, 13, 17, 17, 21, 21, 25, 29] sts, pm, CO 4 sts, pm, CO 41[41, 41, 41, 45, 45, 45, 45, 49] sts, pm, CO 4 sts, pm, CO 9[9, 13, 17, 17, 21, 21, 25, 29] sts, pm, CO 4 sts, pm, CO 5[9, 13, 13, 17, 21, 25, 29, 29] sts, pm, CO 5 sts. 95[103, 119, 127, 139, 155, 163, 179, 191] sts.

The stitches are divided up as follows:
5 sts for garter ridge edge,
5[9, 13, 13, 17, 21, 25, 29, 29] sts for area under arm,
4 sts for garter ridge insert
9[9, 13, 17, 17, 21, 21, 25, 29] sts for side panel,
4 sts for insert
41[41, 41, 41, 45, 45, 45, 45, 49] sts for center,
4 sts for insert
9[9, 13, 17, 17, 21, 21, 25, 29] sts for other side panel
4 sts for insert
5[9, 13, 13, 17, 21, 25, 29, 29] sts for area under arm
5 sts for garter ridge edge.

Slide stitches to other end of needle.
Join CC, leaving a 6 inch/15 cm tail.

Row 1 [WS, with CC]: K5, [sm, k2, sl1wyif, (k3, sl1wyif) to 2 stitches before marker, k2, sm, k4] 5 times, k1. Turn.
Row 2 [RS, with CC]: K5, [sm, p1, k1, sl1wyib, (k1, p1, k1, sl1wyib) to 2 sts before marker, k1, p1, sm, k4] 5 times, k1. Slide stitches to the other end of needles.
Row 3 [RS, with MC]: K5, [sm, (sl1wyif, k3) to one st before marker, sl1wyif, sm, k4] 5 times, k1. Turn.
Row 4 [WS, with MC]: K5, [sm, (sl1wyib, k1, p1, k1) to one st before marker, sl1wyib, sm, k4] 5 times, k1. Slide stitches to the other end of needle.

Repeat Rows 1-4 until piece is 14[14, 13.5, 13.5, 13, 13, 12.5, 12.5, 12] inches/ 35.5[35.5, 34.5, 34.5, 33, 33, 32, 32, 30.5] cm from cast-on, ending with Row 2.
Cut CC, leaving a 6 inch/15 cm tail.

Bind Off for Underarms:
Row 1, decrease to set up bind off [RS, with MC]: K5, sm, (sl1wyif, k1, ssk) to one st before marker, sl1wyif, sm, k4, [sm, (sl1wyif, k3) to one stitch before marker, sl1wyif, sm, k4] 3 times, sm, (sl1wyif, k1, ssk) to one st before marker, sl1wyif, sm, k5. Turn. 93[99, 113, 121, 131, 145, 151, 185, 177] sts.

Note: to make sure the vest is fully reversible, the bind offs are worked both on the same row. This does require cutting and rejoining the yarn, but the end result is better.

Row 2, bind off both sides [WS, with MC]: Bind off each stitch to first marker; remove marker; continue to bind off stitches until you reach the next marker (you will have one stitch on the right-hand needle, and the marker is next); remove marker, K4, sm, [(sl1wyib, k1, p1, k1) to one st before marker, sl1wyib, sm, k4] 3 times, rm, k1.

Bind off remaining stitches, removing last marker when you come to it. Fasten off MC and cut yarn leaving a 6 inch/15 cm tail. Slide stitches to the other end of needles. 77[77, 85, 93, 97, 105, 105, 113, 125] sts

Join CC. Leaving a tail to weave in later, continue with upper front:

Row 3 [WS, with CC]: K5, [sm, k2, sl1wyif, (k3, sl1wyif) to 2 stitches before marker, k2, sm, k4] 3 times, k1. Turn.
Row 4 [RS, with CC]: K5, sm, p1, k1, sl1wyib, (k1, p1, k1, sl1wyib) to 2 sts before marker, k1, p1, sm, k4] 3 times, k1. Slide stitches to the other end of needles.

The first time you work Row 5, you will need to rejoin MC, leaving a tail to weave in later. Leave attached.

Row 5 [RS, with MC]: K5, [sm, (sl1wyif, k3) to one stitch before marker, sl1wyif, sm, k4] 3 times, k1. Turn.
Row 6 [WS, with MC]: K5, [sm, (sl1wyib, k1, p1, k1) to one st. before marker, sl1wyib, sm, k4] 3 times, k1. Slide stitches to the other end of needle.
Repeat Rows 3-6 until piece is 5[5.5, 5.5, 6, 6.5, 7, 7.5, 8, 8.5] inches / 12.5[14, 14, 15, 16.5, 18, 19, 21.5, ] cm from underarms, ending with Row 4.

Bind off for Neckline:
Next row, decrease to set up bind off [RS, with MC]: K5, sm, (sl1wyif, k3) to one stitch before marker, sl1wyif, sm, k4, sm, (sl1wyif, k1, ssk) to last st before marker, sl1wyif, sm, k4, (sl1wyif, k3) to one stitch before marker, sl1wyif, sm, k5. Turn. 67[67, 75, 83, 86, 94, 94, 102, 113] sts.

Next row, bind off center sts [WS, with MC]: K5, sm, (sl1wyib, k1, p1, k1) to one st before marker, sl1wyib, sm, k4, rm, k1 (you will have 5 stitches after the last marker on the right needle), bind off all stitches to next marker (one stitch remains on right needle after bound-off neckline), rm, k4, sm, (sl1wyib, k1, p1, k1) to one st. before marker, sl1wyib, sm, k5.
19[19, 23, 27, 27, 31, 31, 35, 39] sts each side for shoulder.

Cut MC yarn, leaving a 6 inch/15 cm tail, and place the stitches for the last section you worked on stitch holder or scrap yarn. You will now work shoulders separately.

Return to shoulder stitches still on needles. Slide to end where CC yarn hangs.

Shoulders
Row 1 [WS, with CC]: K5, sm, k2, sl1wyif, (k3, sl1wyif) to 2 stitches before marker, k2, sm, k5. Turn.
Row 2 [RS, with CC]: K5, sm, p1, k1, sl1wyib, (k1, p1, k1, sl1wyib) to 2 sts before marker, k1, p1, sm, k5. Slide stitches to the other end of needle.

The first time you work Row 3, you will need to rejoin MC, leaving a tail to weave in later. Leave attached.
Row 3 [RS, with MC]: K5, sm, (sl1wyif, k3) to one stitch before marker, sl1wyif, sm, k5. Turn.
Row 4 [WS, with MC]: K5, sm, (sl1wyib, k1, p1, k1) to one st. before marker, sl1wyib, sm, k5.
Slide stitches to the other end of needle.

Repeat Rows 1-4 until shoulder is 8.5[9, 9.5, 10, 10.5, 11, 11.5, 12, 12.5] inches/ 21.5[23, 24, 25.5, 26.5, 28, 29, 30.5, 32] cm from bound-off underarm, ending with Row 4.
Mark last row with a piece of scrap yarn or safety pin. (This is the top of shoulder.)
Work Rows 1-4 once more, and Rows 1-3 again.
Cut yarns, leaving 6 inch/15 cm tails, and place stitches on stitch holder.

Now place remaining shoulder back on needles, sliding stitches to end closest to neckline. Join CC, leaving tail to weave in later, and beginning with row 1, repeat as for other shoulder.
Count the garter ridges on the edging to make sure both shoulders are the same length.

Cast on for back neck:
With right side facing you:
Next row, add stitches for back neck [WS, with MC] Work across first shoulder: K5, sm, (sl1wyib, k1, p1, k1) to one st. before marker, sl1wyib, sm, k4, pm, k1, turn and cable cast-on 39[39, 39, 39, 43, 43, 43, 43, 47] sts, turn back and continue onto next shoulder: k1, pm, k4, sm, (sl1wyib, k1, p1, k1) to one st. before marker, sl1wyib, sm, k5. Slide stitches to the other end of needle. 77[77, 85, 93, 97, 105, 105, 113, 125] sts

Join CC, and, leaving tail to weave in later, continue working upper back.

Row 1 [WS, with CC]: K5, [sm, k2, sl1wyif, (k3, sl1wyif) to 2 stitches before marker, k2, sm, k4] 3 times, k1. Turn.
Row 2 [RS, with CC]: K5, [sm, p1, k1, sl1wyib, (k1, p1, k1, sl1wyib) to 2 sts before marker, k1, p1, sm, k4] 3 times, k1. Slide stitches to the other end of needles.
Row 3 [RS, with MC]: K5, [sm, (sl1wyif, k3) to one stitch before marker, sl1wyif, sm, k4] 3 times, k1. Turn.
Row 4 [WS, with MC]: K5, [sm, (sl1wyib, k1, p1, k1) to one st. before marker, sl1wyib, sm, k4] 3 times, k1. Slide stitches to the other end of needle.
Count the garter ridges on the upper front, from the underarm to the marked top of shoulder.
Repeat Rows 1-4 until you have the same number of garter ridges (counting from the marked row on the top of shoulder) as on the upper front, ending with Row 3.

Cast on for underarms:
Next row, add stitches for underarms [WS, with MC]: K1, pm, k4 [sm, (sl1wyib, k1, p1, k1) to one st. before marker, sl1wyib, sm, k4] 3 times, pm, k1. Using the cable cast-on, cast on 4[8, 12, 12, 16, 20, 24, 28, 28] sts, pm, cast on 5 sts. Cut yarn, leaving tail to weave in later, Slide stitches to the other end of needles. Join MC, leaving tail to weave in later, and, using cable cast-on, cast on 5 sts, pm, cast on 4[8, 12, 12, 16, 20, 24, 28, 28] sts. (You are now at beginning of where you started this row.) Cut yarn, leaving a 6 inch/15 cm tail.

You now have 95[103, 119, 127, 139, 155, 163, 179, 191] sts again, just like you started with at the beginning (lower front) of the vest.
5 sts for garter ridge edge,
5[9, 13, 13, 17, 21, 25, 29, 29] sts for area under arm,
4sts for garter ridge insert
9[9, 13, 17, 17, 21, 21, 25, 29] sts for side panel,
4 sts for insert
41[41, 41, 41, 45, 45, 45, 45, 49] sts for center,
4 sts for insert
9[9, 13, 17, 17, 21, 21, 25, 29] sts for other side panel
4 sts for insert
5[9, 13, 13, 17, 21, 25, 29, 29] sts for area under arm,
5 sts for garter ridge edge.

Slide stitches to end of needle and with CC side facing, join CC and, leaving tail to weave in later, continue to work lower back.

Row 1 [WS, with CC]: K5, [sm, k2, sl1wyif, (k3, sl1wyif) to 2 stitches before marker, k2, sm, k4] 5 times, k1. Turn.
Row 2 [RS, with CC]: K5, [sm, p1, k1, sl1wyib, (k1, p1, k1, sl1wyib) to 2 sts before marker, k1, p1, sm, k4] 5 times, k1. Slide stitches to the other end of needles.
Row 3 [RS, with MC]: K5, [sm, (sl1wyif, k3) to one stitch before marker, sl1wyif, sm, k4] 5 times, k1. Turn.
Row 4 [WS, with MC]: K5, [sm, (sl1wyib, k1, p1, k1) to one st. before marker, sl1wyib, sm, k4] 5 times, k1. Slide stitches to the other end of needle.

Repeat Rows 1-4 until there are the same number of garter ridges from underarms to lower edge as on lower front, ending with Row 3.

Last row [WS, with MC]: K5, [rm, (sl1wyib, k1, ssk) to last st before marker, sl1wyib, rm, k4] to last stitch, k1. Turn. 79[85, 97, 103, 112, 124, 130, 142, 151] sts.

Using MC, bind off.

FINISHING

Wash and lay flat to dry; note that fabric is stretchy both vertically and horizontally, so it's a good idea to match the shape and dimensions on the schematic as you lay it out, so it dries in shape. Stretching or pinning are not required.

Join sides:
Overlap the 5-stitch garter ridge edges on each side of vest front and back. Either clip in place with removable stitch markers or baste with scrap yarn, matching garter ridges, starting at underarm and stopping 4 inches/10 cm from the bottom.

Sew down the sides, on both RS and WS, using MC on the RS and CC on the WS. Remove basting.

Optional: Sew buttons on each side, spacing the first button 1 inch/2.5 cm from the underarm, the third button 5 inches/12.5 cm from the bottom edge, and the second button halfway in between.

Weave in ends.

Shoulder width: 3[3.5, 4, 4, 5, 5.5, 6, 7, 7] inches 7.5[9, 10, 10, 12.5, 14, 15, 18, 18] cm
Neck width: 7[7, 7, 7, 7.5, 7.5, 7.5, 7.5, 8] inches/ 21.5[23, 24, 25.5, 26.5, 28, 29, 30.5, 32] cm
Armhole depth from shoulder: 8.5[9, 9.5, 10, 10.5, 11, 11.5, 12, 12.5] inches/ 21.5[23, 24, 25.5, 26.5, 28, 29, 30.5, 32] cm
Length from top of shoulder to hem: 22.5[23, 23, 23.5, 23.5, 24, 24, 24.5, 24.5] inches/ 57[58.5, 58.5, 59.5, 59.5, 61, 61, 62, 62] cm
Length from underarm to hem: 14[14, 13.5, 13.5, 13, 13, 12.5, 12.5, 12] inches/ 35.5[35.5, 34.5, 34.5, 33, 33, 32, 32, 30.5] cm
Width of garment measured flat: 7[19, 21.5, 23, 25, 27.5, 29, 31.5, 33.5] inches/ 43[48, 54.5, 58.5, 63.5, 70, 73.5, 80, 85] cm

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

designername Alma Beck enjoys retirement on the Atlantic coast of Canada, playing around with unique knitting designs and learning new fiber art techniques. She is especially grateful for her friend and test knitter, Jacie Clark, whose attention to detail vastly improved these pattern directions.