A quick and portable project for the cooler days ahead. A basic
garter stitch tube is transformed to
a wristwarmer/gauntlet, dressed up with
chain stitch edges and short row peaks.
The reds/pinks/blues version shown below
use Noro Kureyon with a solid color of
another yarn for contrast.
The green and teals
model features Noro Cash Island and Cash
Iroha which create bands of color, sometimes
contrasting, sometimes echoing each other
but always harmonious. Two colorways
of Noro Kureyon would provide a similar
effect. These wristwarmers are an excuse
to experiment with color!
The springy nature
of garter stitch and the flaring created
by the short row peaks allows this wrist
warmer to fit many shapes and sizes.
Eda means charming and well-mannered in Turkish - you’ll
feel cozy, too.
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Approximately 8.5 inches long and 3
inches wide.
MATERIALS
Yarn
Version 1, red/pinks/blues [below]:
[A]
Mainland Earth Collection [80% Alpaca, 20% Silk,
65 m per 50g skein]; color #3, 1 skein.
[B]
Noro Kureyon [100% Wool, 100 m per 50g skein];
color #170, 1 ball.
Version 2, teals and greens [at top]:
[A]
Noro Cash Iroha [40% Silk, 30% Lamb’s Wool, 20 % Cashmere,
10% Nylon, 91 m per 40g skein]; color
#99, 1 skein.
[B]
Noro Cash Island [60% Wool, 30% Cashmere,
10 % nylon, 100m per 40g skein];
color #15, 1 skein.
Recommended needle size [always use a needle
size that gives you the gauge
listed below -- every knitter's
gauge is unique]
1
set US #5/3.75 mm straight needles
1
set US #5/3.75 mm double-point needles OR
1 32 inch or longer US #5/3.75 mm circular
needle for magic loop method OR
2 shorter US #5/3.75 mm circular needles
for two-circulars method
Notions
Yarn
needle
Stitch marker
GAUGE
19
sts/40 rows = 4 inches in garter stitch worked flat
PATTERN NOTES [Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]
The Noro yarns have fairly wild color changes, and long
lengths of color. If you work the first
wristwarmer in its entirety before the
second, the pair can look quite unmatched.
If you want the pair to look more matched,
work two tubes before you work the edges.
Provisional cast on instructions here. Garter stitch graft instructions here.
Working a wrap and turn: Bring yarn forward, slip the
stitch to be wrapped purlwise from left needle to the right,
take the yarn behind work and return the stitch to its
original position, turn work.
Working a stitch together with its wrap:
insert the right needle tip into the front of wrap from
bottom to top, and then into the stitch. Knit the two together
by wrapping the yarn as normal, then bringing the new stitch
through the old stitch and then the wrap.
DIRECTIONS TUBE
Using Yarn A and a provisional cast on,
cast on 26 stitches.
Row 1 [RS]: With A, knit across 26 stitches.
Row 2 [WS]: Slip 1, K24, bring
yarn to front, slip last stitch purlwise.
Join Yarn B.
Row 3 [RS]: With B, k tbl 1, k3, k2tog, k to
last st, bring yarn to front, slip last stitch purlwise.
25 sts.
Row 4 [WS]: With B, k tbl 1, k23, bring
yarn forward, slip last stitch purlwise.
Rows 5 & 6: With A, k tbl 1, k23, bring yarn forward, slip
last stitch purlwise.
Rows 7 & 8: With B, k tbl 1, k23, bring yarn forward,
slip last stitch purlwise.
This method creates a chain stitch edging which will
make an attractive detail when we finish
the wrist warmers. [see pics below]
Repeat Rows 5-8 until you have 15 ridges
of Color A and 14 Ridges of Color B.
Last row [RS]: With
B, k tbl 1, k23, bring yarn forward,
slip last stitch purlwise.
Break both yarns leaving a tail of about
35 cm of yarn B for grafting.
Join the Tube:
Release the provisional cast on and pick
up the stitches– there are a few ways to do this
but the Cash Iroha is a slippery yarn so don’t
let too many get off before you secure them on a needle.
You will notice that there are 25 stitches, even though
we originally cast on 26. It is the way of provisional
cast ons.
Ensure you have 25 sts on each of two needles – the
live sts from the cast-on edge, and the sts you were working.
The tips of the needles should be the same direction.
Fold the work in half with the right
sides facing. Have your working needle
in front and your picked up needle in back. Thread the
long Yarn B tail onto a tapestry needle.
Set up: Pull the yarn through the first stitch on
the front needle as if to purl – leave it on the
needle. Pull the yarn through the first stitch on the back
needle as if to purl – leave it on the needle.
Step 1: Take your yarn through the first stitch on the
front needle as if to knit and lift the stitch off, take
your yarn through the next stitch on the front needle as
if to purl and leave it on.
Step 2: Take your yarn through the first
stitch on the back needle as if to knit
and lift the stitch off, take your yarn
through the next stitch on the back needle as if to purl
and leave it on.
Repeat Step 1 and 2 until all
the stitches have been grafted. The last
stitch on each needle will be knit off,
no purl.
Weave in the ends.
Making the Peaked Top Edge
Turn the tube inside out – that is, so that the wrong
side is facing you.
With a dpn or circular needle and Yarn A, starting at
the join, pick up and knit 1 st in every
st of the chain around the first edge. Note:
When picking up the sts, work under both loops
of the chain st – see
pic below. 30
sts.
Join for working in the round, distributing the sts as
you prefer on the DPNs, or magic loop, or two circulars.
Note or mark beginning of round.
Round 1: P14, kfb, p to end. 31 sts. Round 2: Knit.
Join Yarn B. When changing colors, be sure to keep
your old yarn in front so that it doesn’t show on
the right side. Round 3: With Yarn B, purl. Round 4: With Yarn B, knit. Round 5: With Yarn A, purl. Round 6: With Yarn A, knit. Round 7: With Yarn B, purl.
Continuing only with Yarn B, work the short-row peak. Row 1 [RS]: K20, wrap and
turn.
Row 2 [WS]: K9, wrap and turn. Row 3 [RS]: K8, wrap and turn. Row 4 [WS]: K7, wrap and turn. Row 5 [RS]: K6, wrap and turn. Row 6 [WS]: K5, wrap and turn. Row 7 [RS]: K4, wrap and turn. Row 8 [WS]: K3, wrap and turn. Row 9 [RS]: K2, wrap and turn. Row 10 [WS]: K1, wrap and turn. Row 11 [RS]: K to end of round.
Break yarn B. Final Round: With Yarn A,
purl, working wrapped sts together
with their wraps.
Bind off: K2, insert left needle
into the front of these two stitches
going from left to right, knit these
2 stitches together, k1. Repeat
until you have bound off all the stitches.
Cut yarn and
pull through final st to secure.
You can use a sewn bind off if you prefer.
Bottom Edge
Still with inside of the tube facing,
with Yarn A and DPNs or circular needle, pick up and
knit the chain edges in the same way as for the peak.
30 sts.
Join for working in the round, distributing
the sts as you prefer on the DPNs, or magic loop, or two
circulars. Note or mark beginning of round.
Round 1: Purl. Round 2: K5, kfb, k9, kfb,
k9, kfb, k to end of round. 33 sts.
Join Yarn B. When changing colors, be sure to keep
your old yarn in front so that it doesn’t show on
the right side. Round 3: With Yarn B, purl.
Continuing only with Yarn B, work three short-row peaks
as follows: Row 1 [RS]: K9, wrap and turn.
Row 2 [WS]: K7, wrap and turn. Row 3 [RS]: K6, wrap and turn. Row 4 [WS]: K5, wrap and turn. Row 5 [RS]: K4, wrap and turn. Row 6 [WS]: K3, wrap and turn. Row 7 [RS]: K2, wrap and turn. Row 8 [WS]: K1, wrap and turn. Row 9 [RS]: K15, working wrapped sts together with their wraps
when you come to them, wrap and turn. Row 10 [WS]: K7, wrap and turn Row 11 [RS]: K6, wrap and turn.
Row 12 [WS]: K5, wrap and turn. Row 13 [RS]: K4, wrap and turn. Row 14 [WS]: K3, wrap and turn. Row 15 [RS]: K2, wrap and turn. Row 16 [WS]: K1, wrap and turn. Row 17 [RS]: K15, working wrapped sts together with their wraps
when you come to them, wrap and turn. Row 18 [WS]: K7, wrap and turn. Row 19 [RS]: K6, wrap and turn. Row 20 [WS]: K5, wrap and turn. Row 21 [RS]: K4, wrap and turn.
Row 22 [WS]: K3, wrap and turn. Row 23 [RS]: K2, wrap and turn. Row 24 [WS]: K1, wrap and turn. Row 25 [RS]: K to end of round, working wrapped sts together
with their wraps when you come to them.
Break yarn B. Final Round: With Yarn A,
purl, working wrapped sts together
with their wraps.
Bind off as for top of cuff.
FINISHING
Weave in all ends.
If you use the Cash Iro/Cash Island combination, you'll
have enough left over yarn to make a second pair if you
don’t add the bottom cuff.
ABOUT THE DESIGNER
Brenna MacCrimmon sometimes works in libraries,
frequently sings in Turkish and often knits.
Home is where the Siamese are – Toronto.
Blog-keeping is
haphazard. Music happens.
It really looks like you can’t have too much Noro – or
too many ukuleles.