Substitution Solutions, a column where a spinner uses her knowledge of fiber, yarn construction and knitting to substitute yarns by Jillian Moreno

How to substitute yarn in a pattern

It’s so important for a knitter to feel comfortable substituting a yarn. More and more designers are offering substitution ideas in their patterns, or at least a description of the type of yarn to look for when choosing a substitute, and you'll find helpful descriptors of Yarn Characteristics in every Knitty pattern starting with Winter 2021.

In this column, I walk you through substituting yarn for a couple of patterns in the current issue. There is absolutely nothing wrong with the great yarns that our designers have chosen for their projects. I’m just giving my opinion on other yarns to use, based on how I – as a spinner – look at a yarn and a pattern, making choices based on what I know about fiber, yarn construction, and knitting. Even if the recommended substitution yarns are discontinued one day, my hope is that the information below will make the process of choosing an alternate yarn less daunting, and help you knit projects that give you joy in the knitting and wearing.

Etéreo

Etéreo by Suzie Briddsang

Description of the project: Wow, wow, wow! This dress is fantastic and looks amazing on a huge range of people.
Etéreo is a handknitted dress that is figure hugging, it’s knit with 6-8 inches of negative ease. It looks like the perfect dress to wear all summer long, and designer Suzie Briddsang likes the idea of wearing it as a nightgown as well.

What is important about this sweater:
This dress needs a yarn that will hold its shape well, and will spring back into shape with a reblocking or a trip through a washer and dryer.

What elements of yarn construction should we think about?:
There are three things to look for when substituting for this project. Elasticity: a yarn that will stretch and spring back. Weight: looking for a yarn that is light, because a heavy yarn will contribute to the dress pulling out of shape. Softness: the dress touches a lot of skin, so you don’t want any hard or itchy bits.

Substitution Solution:
I like this as a substitution because of the added cotton. For a summer knit, I like a little absorption in my knitwear. This yarn comes in a huge number of colors and dye styles so you can really customize your dress with solids, stripes, and speckles or a mixture of all of them.

L: Etéreo original yarn: Theodora’s Pearls Auxanometer Gradients
R: Substitution Solution: Universal Yarns Bamboo Pop

Yarn Specified in the pattern:
Name: Theodora’s Pearls Auxanometer Gradients
Fiber: 100% bamboo
Type of Spin: worsted
Ply: 4-ply
Length/ Weight: 400 yds/ 115 gms
Ballband Gauge: 28 stitches to 4 inches/ 10 cm
Pattern Gauge: 20 stitches/30 rows to 4 inches/ 10 cm

Suggested replacement yarn:
Name: Bamboo Pop Universal Yarns
Fiber: Cotton 50% / Bamboo 50%
Type of Spin: worsted
Ply: 3-ply
Length/ Weight: 292 yds/ 100 gms
Ballband Gauge: 20 stiches to 4 inches/10cm
Pattern Gauge: 20 stitches to 4 inches/10cm

OR

L: Etéreo original yarn: Knit One Crochet Too Pea Pods
R: Substitution Solution: Lang Yarns Splash

Yarn Specified in the pattern:
Name: Knit One Crochet Too Pea Pods
Fiber: 100% cotton
Type of Spin: worsted
Ply: tape
Length/ Weight: 262 yds/ 100 gm
Ballband Gauge: 18-20 stitches to 4 inches/10cm
Pattern Gauge: 20 stitches to 4inches/10cm

Suggested replacement yarn:
Name: Lang Yarns Splash
Fiber: Cotton 77% / Acrylic 23%
Type of Spin: worsted
Ply: tape
Length/ Weight: combed top
Ballband Gauge: 19 stiches to 4 inches/10cm
Pattern Gauge: 20 stitches - 4 inches/10cm

If you like the look of a tape yarn this is a great sub. The acrylic helps with the elasticity. The tape construction which is just i-cord, really helps with the weight of a mostly cotton yarn. It makes it much lighter. I also like the speckled style of the color

Spinning Solution:
Name: 100% Rayon
Preparation: combed top

If you want to spin a rayon or extruded fiber, like soy, Tencel, milk, rose, etc, for this project, I would suggest spinning fine and plying to size, so you have 4 or more plies. The extra plies help with durability and elasticity.

To feel have more control over your rayon fiber, try spinning from the fold.

Name: Hipstrings Convergence (shown above)
Fiber: 80% Targhee wool/ 10% Viscose from Bamboo /10% Tussah Silk

If I were spinning for this project, I would use something with wool. This blend from Hipstrings is a good one, since the wool used is incredibly elastic. I would spin a 3-ply, either traditional or chain-plied to keep the color flow.

Wrapid

Wrapid by Margaux Hufnagel

Description of the project:
Wrapid is a top I would reach for again and again during the swealtering days of summer. It has an openwork and a little drape. It can be worn on its own or over another tee or tank. It’s one of those great patterns that looks more complex than it really is.

What is important about this sweater:
It’s an interesting mix of lace and drape, but it still has structure. It doesn’t look like a lace shawl tied onto a body.

What elements of yarn construction should we think about?
I would focus on the balance of structure and drape. The yarn has to be able to hold those yarn-overs open, and have relaxed look and feel without losing its shape.

Substitution Solution:
Juniper Moon Zooey (stripes or solid) has a little crisper hand than the original yarn which gives it better stitch definition. The lace stitch would be more apparent with this blend of fibers and the 2-ply structure. Because it is a cotton/linen blend (a little heavier than the original yarn) and knit at a looser gauge than the ball band calls for, it will still drape.

L: Wrapid original yarn: Berroco Splash
R: Substitution Solution: Juniper Moon Zooey or Rowan Softyak DK

Yarn Specified in the pattern:
Name: Berroco Splash
Fiber: Viscose 70%/Cotton 30%
Type of Spin: worsted
Ply: chain
Length/ Weight: 131 yds/ 50 gms
Ballband Gauge: 21-23 sts to 4 inches/10cm
Pattern Gauge: 18 sts/27 rows to 4 inches/10cm in pattern stitch

Suggested replacement yarn:
Name: Juniper Moon Zooey stripes
Fiber: Cotton 60 %/Linen 40%
Type of Spin: worsted
Ply: 2-ply
Length/ Weight: 284 yds/ 100gm
Ballband Gauge: 20-24 to4 inches/10cm
Pattern Gauge: 18 sts/27 rows to 4 inches/10cm in pattern stitch

Juniper Moon Zooey (stripes or solid) has a little crisper hand than the original yarn which gives it better stitch definition. The lace stitch would be more apparent with this blend of fibers and the 2-ply structure. Because it is a cotton/linen blend (a little heavier than the original yarn) and knit at a looser gauge than the ball band calls for, it will still drape.

OR

Name: Rowan Softyak DK
Fiber: Cotton 76%/Yak 15%/Nylon 9%
Type of Spin: worsted
Ply: chain
Length/ Weight: 148 yds/ 50 gm
Ballband Gauge: 22 sts to 4 inches/10cm
Pattern Gauge: 18 sts/27 rows to 4 inches/10cm in pattern stitch

If you need a little luxury in your warm weather tops, try this Rown Softyak. It’s mostly cotton but the yak and nylon help with elasticity, and the yak makes it very soft. The chain structure keeps it all lighter than a mostly cotton yarn would, though the stitch definition is softer. The mixture of yak and cotton gives this yarn a great matte finish.

Hipstrings After Dinner Mint

Name: Hipstrings After Dinner Mint
Fiber: 50% Merino wool, 25% Shetland wool, 12.5% Tussah Silk and 12.5% Flax

If I were spinning for this, I would reach for one of the flax blends that are really popular right now. This one from Hipstrings is a really interesting blend. I would make a 2-ply, worsted drafted yarn for this project. The Merino keeps it very soft, the Shetland gives the yarn some grab, the silk helps it drape, and makes it more durable, and the flax helps to give the yarn great stitch definition and structure.