Wavy Gilet, a free knitting pattern from Knitty.com.
INTRODUCTION
Wavy Gilet
by Merri Fromm
A light but warming layer to wear when it's still chilly in spring. The design began with a fabulous Japanese Feather lace pattern. The vest is worked flat without side seams so that the edges take on the luscious waves formed by the increases and decreases. This is a classic gilet shape: straight sided with no shaping because the lace will mold with you.
model: Tamara Nelson-Fromm
photos: Merri Fromm
SIZE
Women's XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X, 6X]
Shown in size L with 2 inches/5 cm of ease at chest
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Chest circumference at underarm: 34.75[37, 44.5, 47, 49.25, 54.25, 56.75, 64, 66.5, 69] inches/ 88.5[94, 113, 119.5, 125, 138, 144, 162.5, 169, 175.5] cm, not including the overlap of the fronts
Length: 22.5[22.5, 23.25, 25, 25, 25.25, 25.5, 25.75, 26, 26.5] inches/ 57[57, 59, 63.5, 63.5, 64, 65, 65.5, 66, 67.5] cm
MATERIALS
Yarn
Woolfolk Far [100% ovis 21 ultimate merino wool; 142 yards/130 meters per 50 gr skein]; Color 34; 4[4, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 8, 9] skeins
Yarn Characteristics
Woolfolk Far is a light with a chainette construction. When substituting yarn, choose a wool or wool blend with some stretch as lace is improved when blocked.
Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below - every knitter's gauge is unique]
1 US #6/4.0 circular needle, 40 inches/100 cm in length
1 US #7/4.5 circular needle, 40 inches/100 cm in length
Notions
stitch markers
spare yarn or stitch holders
blocking lace wires and/or pins
yarn needle
GAUGE
18 sts/22 rows = 4 inches/10 cm in Japanese Feather Stitch
Note: gauge is always taken after blocking
PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]
Construction method: Gilet is knitted flat from the bottom up, starting with the hem, then worked up to the armholes, where the work is separated. Shoulders are joined with 3-needle bind off.
Techniques: To work optional i-cord belt, I used an I-Cord Tool.
The Knit with Laura Nelkin Youtube channel has an excellent tutorial of how to use this tool.
When working pattern decreases at neckline, balance ssk and k2tog with yarn overs. If one part of pattern is not possible, work in stockinette stitch.
CHARTS
Japanese feather lace pattern, Mult of 11 plus 1
Row 1 and all other WS rows [WS]: Sl1, *p10, k1; rep from * until 12 sts remain, p11, k1.
Row 2 [RS]: Sl1, k1, *k10, p1; rep from * until 11 sts remain, k11.
Row 4: Sl1, k1, *k10, p1; rep from * until 11 sts remain, k11.
Row 6: Sl1, k1, *k1, (yo, k1) 3 times, ssk 3 times, p1; rep from * until 11 sts remain, k1, (yo, k1) 3 times, ssk 3 times, k1.
Row 8: Sl1, k1, *k1, (k1, yo) 3 times, ssk 3 times, p1; rep from * until 11 sts remain, k1, (k1, yo) 3 times, ssk 3 times, k1.
Row 10: Sl1, k1, *k1, (yo, k1) 3 times, ssk 3 times, p1; rep from * until 11 sts remain, k1, (yo, k1) 3 times, ssk 3 times, k1.
Row 12: Sl1, k1, *k1, (k1, yo) 3 times, ssk 3 times, p1; rep from * until 11 sts remain, k1, (k1, yo) 3 times, ssk 3 times, k1.
Row 14: Sl1, k1, *k1, (yo, k1) 3 times, ssk 3 times, p1; rep from * until 11 sts remain, k1, (yo, k1) 3 times, ssk 3 times, k1.
Row 16: Sl1, k1, *k10, p1; rep from * until 11 sts remain, k11.
Row 18: Sl1, k1, *k10, p1; rep from * until 11 sts remain, k11.
Row 20: Sl1, k1, *k2tog 3 times, (k1, yo) 3 times, k1, p1; rep from * until 11 sts remain, k2tog 3 times, (k1, yo) 3 times, k2.
Row 22: Sl1, k1, *k2tog 3 times, (yo, k1) 3 times, k1, p1; rep from * until 12 sts remain, k2tog 3 times, (yo, k1) 3 times, k2.
Row 24: Sl1, k1, *k2tog 3 times, (k1, yo) 3 times, k1, p1; rep from * until 11 sts remain, k2tog 3 times, (k1, yo) 3 times, k2.
Row 26: Sl1, k1, *k2tog 3 times, (yo, k1) 3 times, k1, p1; rep from * until 11 sts remain, k2tog 3 times, (yo, k1) 3 times, k2.
Row 28: Sl1, k1, *k2tog 3 times, (k1, yo) 3 times, k1, p1; rep from * until 11 sts remain, k2tog 3 times, (k1, yo) 3 times, k2.
DIRECTIONS
Body
With smaller needles, CO 156[167, 200, 211, 222, 244, 255, 288, 299, 310] sts.
Rib row 1 [RS]: Sl1, *p2, k3, p3, k3; rep from * to last st, k1.
Rib row 2 [WS]: Sl1, *p3, k3, p3, k2; rep from * to last st, k1.
Rep last 2 rows 1 more time, then work Rib row 1 once more.
Change to larger needles. Begin Japanese Feather Lace.
Work in pattern as set across all sts for 16[16, 16, 16.5, 16.5, 16.5, 16.5, 16.5, 16.5, 16.5] inches/ 40.5[40.5, 40.5, 42, 42, 42, 42, 42, 42, 42] cm from cast-on edge, or desired length to armhole, ending after a RS row.
Divide for fronts and back:
Next row [WS]: Working in pattern as set, pm for the front and back section as follows:
Right front: 45[45, 56, 56, 56, 67, 67, 78, 78, 78] sts.
Back: 66[77, 88, 99, 110, 110, 121, 132, 143, 154] sts.
Left front: 45[45, 56, 56, 56, 67, 67, 78, 78, 78] sts.
Begin Right front neck shaping:
Important note: If the decrease stitch is already a k2tog or a ssk, then work a k3tog in place.
Next row [RS]: Continue to work in pattern to 1 st before marker, BO 1 st, remove marker and turn work. You will now be working on the Right Front only. 44[44, 55, 55, 55, 66, 66, 77, 77, 77] sts.
Work in pattern for 0[0, 0, 0, 8, 0, 0, 0, 0, 8] rows before beginning neckline decreases.
Begin working neckline decrease as follows:
Decrease row 1 [RS]: Sl1, k1, k2tog, k2tog, continue to work in lace pattern as set. 2 sts decreased.
Next row [WS]: Work in pattern as set.
Work last 2 rows 8[5, 8, 1, 0, 6, 1, 6, 1, 0] times total. 28[34, 39, 53, 55, 54, 64, 65, 75, 77] sts.
Continue as follows:
Decrease row 2 [RS]: Sl1, k1, k2tog, continue to work in lace pattern as set.
Next row [WS]: Work in pattern as set.
Work last 2 rows 9[12, 11, 21, 18, 17, 23, 19, 24, 22] times total. 19[22, 28, 32, 37, 37, 41, 46, 51, 55] sts.
Break yarn. Place sts on holder for shoulder.
Work Left front neck shaping:
Attach yarn to RS of Left Shoulder at marker, BO 1 st, remove marker. You will now be working on the Left Front only. 44[44, 55, 55, 55, 66, 66, 77, 77, 77] sts.Work in pattern for 0[0, 0, 0, 9, 0, 0, 0, 0, 9] rows before beginning neckline decreases.
Begin working neckline decrease as follows:
Decrease row 1 [RS]: Work in pattern until 6 sts remain, k2tog, k2tog, k2.
Next row [WS]: Work in pattern as set.
Work last 2 rows 8[5, 8, 1, 0, 6, 1, 6, 1, 0] times total. 28[34, 39, 53, 55, 54, 64, 65, 75, 77] sts.
Continue as follows:
Decrease row 2 [RS]: Work in pattern until 4 sts remain, k2tog, k2.
Work Decrease row 2 9[12, 11, 21, 18, 17, 23, 19, 24, 22] times total. 19[22, 28, 32, 37, 37, 41, 46, 51, 55] sts.
Break yarn. Place sts on holder for shoulder.
Work Back:
Attach yarn to Back sts with RS facing.
Work in pattern for 36[36, 40, 47, 47, 48, 50, 51, 52, 55] rows or 6.5[6.5, 7.25, 8.5, 8.5, 8.75, 9, 9.25, 9.5, 10] inches/ 16.5[16.5, 18.5, 21.5, 21.5, 22, 23, 23.5, 24, 25.5] cm or length to match left and right front ending on a WS row.
Next row [RS]: Work 19[22, 28, 32, 37, 37, 41, 46, 51, 55] sts, BO 28[33, 32, 35, 36, 36, 39, 40, 41, 44] for back neck, work 19[22, 28, 32, 37, 37, 41, 46, 51, 55] sts to end.
Break yarn. Place sts on holder for shoulder.
With RS facing, join Front and Back at shoulders using 3-Needle Bind Off.
FINISHING
Weave in ends. Block to measurements. Blocking lace wires or pins are needed to spread the lace and to get measurements.
A – Chest circumference at underarm: 34.75[37, 44.5, 47, 49.25, 54.25, 56.75, 64, 66.5, 69] inches/ 88.5[94, 113, 119.5, 125, 138, 144, 162.5, 169, 175.5] cm, not including the overlap of the fronts
B – Underarm to hem length: 16[16, 16, 16.5, 16.5, 16.5, 16.5, 16.5, 16.5, 16.5] inches/ 40.5[40.5, 40.5, 42, 42, 42, 42, 42, 42, 42] cm
C – Total length hem to shoulder: 22.5[22.5, 23.25, 25, 25, 25.25, 25.5, 25.75, 26, 26.5] inches/ 57[57, 59, 63.5, 63.5, 64, 65, 65.5, 66, 67.5] cm
D – Armhole height: 6.5[6.5, 7.25, 8.5, 8.5, 8.75, 9, 9.25, 9.5, 10] inches/ 16.5[16.5, 18.5, 21.5, 21.5, 22, 23, 23.5, 24, 25.5] cm
E – Shoulder width: 4.25[5, 6.25, 7, 8.25, 8.25, 9, 10.25, 11.25, 12.25] inches/ 11[12.5, 16, 18, 21, 21, 23, 26, 28.5, 31] cm
F – Back neck width: 6.5[7.25, 7, 7.75, 8, 8, 8.75, 9, 9, 9.75] inches, 16.5[18.5, 18, 19.5, 20.5, 20.5, 22, 23, 23, 25] cm
ABOUT THE DESIGNER
Merri lives in Saint Paul, Minnesota, where she spends her days doing a little bit of wellness coaching and a lot of dreaming about what she's going to knit next, while working on her current knitting project. As a resident of Minnesota, she feels knitting is a required life skill. She lives with her husband and the sweet but very needy cat, Quigley.
You'll find more of her work on Ravelry.
Pattern & images © 2025 Merri Fromm