by Amy Herzog

This comfy, cozy cardigan flatters the figure and keeps you plenty warm all winter long. The gull stitch-based cables add some interest for the knitter without getting overly-busy, and the luxurious yarn makes the knitting time fly by. The wide collar can be worn open over the shoulders or buttoned for scarf-like warmth. Bring on some snow!

Constructed in pieces from the bottom up with set-in sleeves, Kittiwake offers lots of tailored touches. Vertical darts are used for waist shaping; the long sleeves are meant to be cuffed; the cables grow naturally out of the ribbed trim. The plackets are worked in-line with the cardigan fronts; stitches for the placket and the Inverted Gull Stitch cable are placed on holders while shaping the neck and shoulders, and then continued seamlessly up onto the collar. These details can seem a little fussy, but they're definitely worth it in the end!

SIZE
XXXS[XXS, XS, S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X]
shown in size M

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Chest: 30[32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 46, 50, 54] inches, unbuttoned
Length: 20[20.75, 21.25, 21.75, 22.5, 23, 23.5, 24.25, 25, 25.5] inches
Intended to be worn with 1-2 inches positive ease in the upper torso

MATERIALS
Yarn
Rowan Felted Tweed Aran [50% merino wool; 25% alpaca; 25% viscose]: 95 yds/87 m per 50g ball, shown in color #732; 10[10,11, 12, 12, 13, 14, 15, 17, 18] balls

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
One set US #8/5mm straight or circular needles, or size needed to obtain gauge
24-inch circular needle in main needle size and one size above, for collar only

Notions
stitch markers (of colors A and B, optional)
2 stitch holders
yarn needle
12[13, 13, 13, 14, 14, 14, 15, 15, 15] 20mm buttons

GAUGE

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

Continue to work cables in pattern when possible. When it is no longer possible, simply work all knit sts as knit and all purl sts as purl.

1/2 LC: Slip 1 st to cn and hold in front, k2; k1 from cn.
1/2 RC: Slip 2 sts to cn and hold in back, k1; k2 from cn.
1/3 LC: Slip 1 st to cn and hold in front, k3; k1 from cn.
1/3 RC: Slip 3 sts to cn and hold in back, k1; k3 from cn.
C4F: Slip 2 sts to cn and hold in front, k2; k2 from cn.
C4B: Slip 2 sts to cn and hold in back, k2; k2 from cn.

M1L: Insert left needle, from front to back, under strand of yarn which runs between last stitch on left needle and first stitch on right needle; knit this stitch through back loop.
1 stitch increased.

M1R: Insert left needle, from back to front, under strand of yarn which runs between last stitch on left needle and first stitch on right needle; knit this stitch.
1 stitch increased.

DIRECTIONS

Shape armholes:
Cont in patt, BO 4[4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 6, 6, 8, 10] sts at beg of the next 2 rows. BO 0[2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 4, 6, 6] sts at beg of following 0[2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2] rows. 60[60, 64, 68, 72, 76, 76, 80, 80, 84] sts rem

Dec 1 st at each end of every RS row 3[2, 3, 4, 4, 5, 4, 5, 4, 4] times, working decreases as follows:
[RS]: K1, ssk, patt to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
54[56, 58, 60, 64, 66, 68, 70, 72, 76] sts rem after all armhole decreases are worked.

Work even until armhole measures 5.5[6, 6.25, 6.5, 7, 7.25, 7.5, 7.75, 8, 8.5] inches and piece measures 19[19.75, 20.25, 20.75, 21.5, 22, 22.5, 23.25, 24, 24.5] inches from cast on, ending after a WS row.

Shape back neck:
Next row [RS]: Work 15[16, 16, 17, 18, 18, 19, 20, 20, 21] sts, BO center 24[24, 26, 26, 28, 30, 30, 30, 32, 34] sts, work to end. You will now work the left shoulder only; place the sts for the right shoulder on a holder if desired.

Left Shoulder:
Work 1 row even in patt over these 15[16, 16, 17, 18, 18, 19, 20, 20, 21] sts.
Neck Decrease Row [RS]: Patt 1, ssk, patt to end.
Work Neck Decrease Row on following RS row, then work even in patt until armhole measures 6.5[7, 7.25, 7.5, 8, 8.25, 8.5, 8.75, 9, 9.5] inches and piece measures 20[20.75, 21.25, 21.75, 22.5, 23, 23.5, 24.25, 25, 25.5] inches from CO edge, ending after a RS row.

Next row [WS]: BO 7[7, 7, 8, 8, 8, 9, 9, 9, 10] sts, work to end.
Work 1 RS row even.
BO rem 6[7, 7, 7, 8, 8, 8, 9, 9, 9] sts.

Right shoulder:
Re-attach yarn to WS of held sts.
Work 1 row even in patt over these 15[16, 16, 17, 18, 18, 19, 20, 20, 21] sts.
Neck Decrease Row [RS]: Patt to last 3 sts, k2tog, patt 1.
Work Neck Decrease Row on following RS row, then work even in patt until armhole armhole measures 6.5[7, 7.25, 7.5, 8, 8.25, 8.5, 8.75, 9, 9.5] inches and piece measures 20[20.75, 21.25, 21.75, 22.5, 23, 23.5, 24.25, 25, 25.5] inches from CO edge, ending after a WS row.

Next row [RS]: BO 7[7, 7, 8, 8, 8, 9, 9, 9, 10] sts, work to end.
Work 1 WS row even.
BO rem 6[7, 7, 7, 8, 8, 8, 9, 9, 9] sts.

Shape armholes:
Next row [RS]: BO 4[4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 6, 6, 8, 10] sts, patt to end of row.
Work 1 row even.
Next row [RS]: BO 0[2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 4, 6, 6] sts, patt to end of row.
Work 1 row even.

Dec 1 st at armhole edge of every RS row 3[2, 3, 4, 4, 5, 4, 5, 4, 4] times as follows:
[RS]: K1, ssk, patt to end.
32[33, 34, 35, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 43] sts remain after all armhole decreases are worked.

Work even in pattern as established until armhole measures 2.5[3, 3.25, 3.5, 4, 4.25, 4.5, 4.75, 5, 5.5] inches, ending after a RS row.

Shape Neck:
Next row [WS]: Sl1, (k1, p1tbl) twice, p2, sl m, work next row of Inverted Gull Stitch Cable. Place last 16 sts worked on holder. Patt to end. 16[17, 18, 19, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 27] sts rem

Dec 1 st at neck edge of every row 0[0, 0, 0, 1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2] times, then every RS row 1[1, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3] times, and every other RS row 2[2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 3] times, working neck decreases as follows:
[RS]: Patt to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
[WS]: P1, p2tog, patt to end.
13[14, 14, 15, 16, 16, 17, 18, 18, 19] sts rem after all neck decreases are completed.

Work even in St st until armhole measures 6.5[7, 7.25, 7.5, 8, 8.25, 8.5, 8.75, 9, 9.5] inches and piece measures 20[20.75, 21.25, 21.75, 22.5, 23, 23.5, 24.25, 25, 25.5] inches from CO edge, ending after a WS row.

Shape shoulder:
Next row [RS]: BO 7[7, 7, 8, 8, 8, 9, 9, 9, 10] sts, work to end.
Work 1 WS row even.
BO rem 6[7, 7, 7, 8, 8, 8, 9, 9, 9] sts.

RIGHT FRONT
CO 39[41, 43, 45, 47, 49, 51, 55, 59, 63] sts.
Next row [WS]: P1[3, 1, 3, 1, 3, 1, 1, 1, 1], (k2, p2) 3[3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9] times, pm, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, pm, p2, k2, p1, k2, p2, pm, k2, (p1tbl, k1) twice, p1tbl.

Next row [RS]: Sl1, (p1, k1tbl) twice, p2, sl m, k2, p2, k1, p2, k1, sl m, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, sl m, (k2, p2) to last 1[3, 1, 3, 1, 3, 1, 1, 1, 1] st(s), knit to end.
Rep last 2 rows, slipping all makers, until piece measures .75 inches from CO edge, ending after a WS row.

Buttonhole row [RS]: Sl 1, *slp, pass 2nd st on RH needle over the 1st st as if to BO. Rep from * once more. Slip the last bound-off st from RH needle to LH needle and turn work. Using the cable cast-on, CO 3 sts. Turn work. Slip 1st st on LH needle to RH needle and pass extra CO st over to close the buttonhole. Work to end of row as established.
Continue working Buttonhole Rows every 1.75 inches throughout the remainder of the Right Front.
Continue in patt as established until piece measures 2 inches from CO edge, ending after a WS row.

Next row [RS]: Sl1, patt to first marker, sl m, work Row 1 of Inverted Gull Stitch chart, sl m, work Row 1 of Triple Gull-Stitch Cable, sl m, knit to end.

Next row [WS]: Purl to marker, sl m, work next row of Triple Gull-Stitch Cable, sl m, work next row of Inverted Gull Stitch chart, sl m, patt to end.

Work even in established patt until piece measures 3.5 inches from CO edge, ending after a WS row.

Decrease row [RS]: Patt to last marker, sl m, k1, k2tog, knit to end. 1 st dec'd
Work 5 rows even.
Repeat these 6 rows twice more. 36[38, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48, 52, 56, 60] sts rem.

Work as established until piece measures 8 inches from CO edge, ending after a WS row.
Increase row [RS]: Work to last marker, sl m, k1, m1L, knit to end. 1 st inc'd
Work 7 rows even.
Repeat these 8 rows twice more. 39[41, 43, 45, 47, 49, 51, 55, 59, 63] sts

Work even until piece measures 13.5[13.75, 14, 14.25, 14.5, 14.75, 15, 15.5, 16, 16] inches from CO edge, ending after a RS row.

Shape armholes:
Next row [WS]: BO 4[4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 6, 6, 8, 10] sts, then work as established to end of row. Work 1 row even.

Next row [WS]: BO 0[2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 4, 6, 6] sts, work to end of row.
Work 1 row even.
Decrease 1 st at armhole edge of every RS row 3[2, 3, 4, 4, 5, 4, 5, 4, 4] times: 32[33, 34, 35, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 43] sts remain.

Work even in pattern as established until armhole measures 2.5[3, 3.25, 3.5, 4, 4.25, 4.5, 4.75, 5, 5.5] inches, ending with a WS row. Break yarn.

Shape Neck:
Next row [RS]: Place first 16 sts of row on holder. Reattach yarn to rem sts and patt to end.

Dec 1 st at neck edge of every row 0[0, 0, 0, 1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2] times, then every RS row 1[1, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3] times, and every other RS row 2[2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 3] times, working neck decreases as follows:
[RS]: K1, ssk, patt to end.
[WS]: Patt to last 3 sts, ssp, p1.
13[14, 14, 15, 16, 16, 17, 18, 18, 19] sts rem after all neck decreases are completed.

Work even in St st until armhole measures 6.5[7, 7.25, 7.5, 8, 8.25, 8.5, 8.75, 9, 9.5] inches and piece measures 20[20.75, 21.25, 21.75, 22.5, 23, 23.5, 24.25, 25, 25.5] inches from CO edge, ending after a RS row.

Shape shoulder:
Next row [WS]: BO 7[7, 7, 8, 8, 8, 9, 9, 9, 10] sts, work to end.
Work 1 RS row even.
BO rem 6[7, 7, 7, 8, 8, 8, 9, 9, 9] sts.

Increase row [RS]: K1, m1R, knit to last st, m1L, k1. 2 sts inc'd
Work 9[9, 9, 9, 7, 7, 7, 5, 5, 3] rows even in St st.
Rep these 10[10, 10, 10, 8, 8, 8, 6, 6, 4] rows 5[5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 9, 9, 10] times more. 44[46, 48, 50, 52, 54, 56, 60, 64, 68] sts

Work even in St st until piece measures 18.5[18.75, 19, 19.25, 19.5, 19.75, 20, 20, 20, 20] inches from CO edge, ending after a WS row.

Shape sleeve cap:
BO 4[4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 6, 6, 8, 10] sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
BO 0[2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 4, 6, 4] sts at the beginning of the following 2 rows.

Decrease 1 st at each end of every 3rd RS row 0[1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 3, 5, 5] times, then every other RS row 0[1, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 1, 0, 1] times, then every RS row 9[6, 8, 9, 10, 11, 9, 3, 0, 1] times.

BO 2[2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3] sts at the beginning of the next 4 rows.
BO final 10[10, 10, 10, 10, 10, 10, 14, 14, 14] sts.

COLLAR
With RS facing and circular needle, patt across held 16 sts from Right Front, pick up and knit 16[16, 17, 17, 16, 17, 17, 17, 18, 17] sts along Right Front Neck, pick up and knit 6 sts along diagonal portion of right back neck, pick up and knit 24[24, 26, 26, 28, 30, 30, 30, 32, 34] sts along back center neck, pick up and knit 6 sts along diagonal portion of left back neck, pick up and knit 16[16, 17, 17, 16, 17, 17, 17, 18, 17] sts along Left Front Neck, patt across 16 held sts from Left Front. 100[100, 104, 104, 104, 108, 108, 108, 112, 112] sts

Next row [WS]: Patt 16 sts as established, (k2, p2) to last 18 sts, k2, work final 16 sts in patt.

Continuing buttonholes on Right Front as established, work even in twisted 1x1 rib, Inverted Gull Stitch, and 2x2 rib until Collar measures 4 inches from picked up sts.

Change to larger needle and and cont in patt until Collar measures 7 inches from picked up sts.
BO all sts.
Sew on buttons opposite buttonholes and weave in ends.

Amy has been knitting since she was a small child and is passionate about sweaters that not only fit, but flatter the wearer's figure as well.

She writes about her knitting, modifying patterns to suit your particular body, and her designs here, and can be found on Ravelry and on Flickr.