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Ram Wools

This sweater is a new version of my most popular design to date -- Tempting, which debuted in the Winter 2004 issue of Knitty.

This version has a few new challenges; it is worked in a smaller rib and is finished with a band knit on sideways at the top and true to my traditional design style it is knit completely in the round with minimal finishing.

Like all great second editions this one promises to be bigger than the first (and smaller too), with an expanded list of sizes to fit every shape.

If you knit Tempting last year and are ready to update your look welcome to the next big thing.

model: Jenna Adorno photos: Eneida Adorno


Chest: 30 [32, 36, 40, 44, 48, 52] inches
Length: 18 [20, 22, 24, 26, 26, 28] inches

This sweater is designed to be snug-fitting. Choose the size with a chest measurement that is the same as, or slightly smaller than, your own chest measurement.



Rowan Calmer [75% Cotton 25% Microfiber; 177yds/160m per 50g balls]; Color: #481 Coffee Bean; 4 [4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 7] balls
If you are using another yarn for this design, be sure to choose one with some elasticity, that will hold its shape and provide a resilient, stretchy rib. (100% cotton yarns are unlikely to be suitable for this design.)

1 set US #8/5mm double-point needles
1 spare set double-point needles, US #8/5 mm or smaller
1 24 inch US #8/5mm circular needle.
A 32 inch US #8/5mm needle may also be desired to knit the yoke after the sleeves and body have been joined.
Stitch markers
Waste yarn
Tapestry needle
Tri-Glide Buckle (A "Tri-Glide" buckle is a standard buckle with three bars and two openings. The buckle should have a 1.5 inch opening. )


20 stitches / 28 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch

Note: The sweater is worked in 1x1 Rib; stockinette gauge is provided for yarn substitution purposes only.


[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations can be found here]

1x1 Rib (Worked in the round over an even number of sts):
Round 1: [K1, p1] to end.
Every round is the same.

1x1 Rib (Worked back and forth over an odd number of sts):
Row 1 [RS]: [K1, p1] to last st, k1.
Row 2 [WS]: [P1, k1] to last st, p1.
Repeat these 2 rows for 1x1 Rib.

Three-Needle Bind Off
Hold both pieces of knitting with right sides together.
*Insert needle into first st on front needle and first st on back needle, and knit them together. Repeat this for the next st on the front and back needles. Draw the first st worked over the second st.*

Repeat from * to * until all sts have been bound off. Break yarn and draw through remaining st.


Using circular needle, CO 144[160,180, 200, 216, 236, 260] sts. Place marker and join to begin working in the round, being careful not to twist.

Work in 1x1 Rib until work measures 13[14, 15, 16, 17, 17, 18] inches.

Next Round: Break yarn, place next 12[14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 22] sts on waste yarn; rejoin yarn, work 60[66, 74, 82, 88, 96, 108] sts, break yarn; place next 12[14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 22] sts on waste yarn; rejoin yarn, work 60[66, 74, 82, 88, 96, 108] sts (to end of round). Do not break yarn. Set aside and make sleeves.

Sleeves (Make 2)
Using double-point needles, CO 52[60, 68, 76, 82, 86, 98] sts. Divide sts evenly between needles, place marker and join to begin working in the round, being careful not to twist.

Work in 1x1 Rib until work measures 2.5[3, 3.5, 4, 4.5, 4.5, 5] inches.

Place 12[14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 22] sts at beg of next round on waste yarn; place rem 40[46, 52, 58, 62, 64, 76] sts on hold on spare double-point needles. Break yarn, leaving a long tail. Set aside.

When making second sleeve, after placing sts on waste yarn, leave rem sts on working needles.

Join Sleeves to Body
NOTE: Read through this entire step before beginning.

Using circular needle and ball of yarn attached to body, and working in 1x1 rib as set, work across 40[46, 52, 58, 62, 64, 76] sts of one sleeve, work across 60[66, 74, 82, 88, 96, 108] sts of front of body, work across 40[46, 52, 58, 62, 64, 76] sts of second sleeve, work across 60[66, 74, 82, 88, 96, 108] sts of back of body. Place marker to mark beg of round.

There will now be 200[224, 252, 280, 304, 320, 368] sts on the circular needle, and the sleeves and body will be joined, ready for the yoke to be worked. At the underarms, the sts on waste yarn from the body and from the sleeves will be opposite each other. These sts will be joined later on.

If desired, switch to a longer circular needle at this point.

Cont in rib patt as set until work measures 4.5[5, 5.5, 6, 6.5, 6.5, 6.5] inches from joining point. Work 40[46, 52, 58, 62, 64, 76] sts; beg and end next round at this point.

Next Round: [K2tog, k1] to last 2[2, 0, 1, 0, 2, 2] sts, k to end. Break yarn, set aside.

Using a new ball of yarn and double-point needles, CO 11 sts. Work in 1x1 Rib until work measures 5 inches, ending with a WS row.

Next Row [RS]: Work in patt to last st, ssk last st of band tog with first st of neckline.
Next Row [WS]: Work in patt.
Repeat these 2 rows until all sts of neck have been worked.

Work band for 5 inches more. BO all stitches in patt.


Turn work inside out. Remove underarm sts of one sleeve from waste yarn and place on a double-point needle. Remove corresponding underarm sts of body from waste yarn and place on second double-point needle. Join body sts to sleeve sts using three-needle BO and long tail from sleeve. Join second underarm in the same way.

Fasten buckle to top of sweater by threading left side of yoke strap through center bar of buckle. Fold to back and fasten to same side by sewing in place with waste yarn and a tapestry needle. Weave in all ends.

Try sweater on, thread right side of yoke strap through buckle, tighten around shoulders to hold into place.


Jenna Adorno lives in Seattle, works in the software industry and dreams of being paid fabulously to knit garments full time.

She can be found here.