Last winter in the midst
of a snowstorm in NYC, I found myself on a bar crawl.
Despite the weather, we were determined to stick it
out. Each time we changed location, we all put on
multiple layers to brave the cold. Every time we arrived
at a new place, we all started peeling layers off
so we'd look a bit less like snowmen.
we layered up preparing for another trek, my friend
and I started discussing one of the garments she was
wearing. It was a lightweight sweater with no armhole
seams and a square neckline.
The garment construction
stuck in my mind. During a stash-diminishing exercise,
I started playing with creating a chunky, stripey
This sweater is literally
made from two tubes, one for the body, and one for
the shrug-like sleeves. The rib makes the body nice
and fitted, and really warm. However, the square neckline
makes this a cute sweater to wear on a cold night
out. The sleeves are stockinette, and very slightly
belled. It can be tried on as you go, and easily adjusted
to fit the way you want. It's a fast knit, and there
is no seaming!
|XS [S, M, L, XL] (shown in size S)
Chest: 27 [29, 31, 33, 36] inches
Note: Will stretch up to 40[43, 46, 49, 54] inches
Cross-back width: 19[20, 21.5, 23, 24.5]
Length: 22.5[23.5, 24.5, 25.5, 26.5] inches
Designer's note: The 3x1 rib used for the body
of the sweater is very stretchy, which makes it accommodating
for a wide variety of shapes and measurements. For
reference, my chest is about 36 inches, and I'm wearing
size S in the photo.
Important Note: Be sure
to choose a size with a cross-back measurement that
is at least .5 inches longer than the width of your
back, measured from center of armpit to center of
armpit, when your arms are held forward. (Have a friend
help you take this measurement!)
Bliss Cashmerino Aran [55% Merino Wool, 33%
Microfibre, 12% Cashmere; 100yds/ 90m per 50g
[MC] #300 Black 6 [7, 8, 9, 10] balls
[CC1] #612 Eggplant; 1 ball
[CC2] #105 Brown; 1 [1, 1, 1, 2] balls
[CC3] #201 Teal; 1 [2, 2, 2, 2]balls
[CC4] #501 Pea Green; 1 ball
[CC5] #607 Purple; 1 [2, 2, 2, 2] balls
allows for the stripe layout exactly per the
pattern, and will leave a lot left over of the
contrast colors. A solid version would require
10 [11, 12, 13, 15] balls.
1 set US #8/5mm double-point needles
1 24-inch or 32-inch US #8/5mm circular needle
Split ring markers or safety pins
20 sts/24 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
24 sts/24 rows = 4 inches in 3x1 Rib
list of standard abbreviations can be found
The first sleeve is cast on at the side back using
the Crochet Cast On method. (If you prefer, you can
use another provisional cast on method.) After the
first sleeve is worked, you will remove the crochet
chain from the cast on edge, and pick up the live
stitches to begin working the second sleeve.
Crochet Cast On
Using waste yarn, work a crochet chain several
sts longer than the number of sts to be cast on. Starting
1 or 2 sts in from end of chain and using working
yarn, pick up and k 1 st in the back loop of each
st until the required number of sts have been worked.
Later, the chain will be unraveled and the resulting
live sts picked up.
3x1 Rib (Worked in the
round over a multiple of 4 sts):
Round 1: [K3, p1] around.
Repeat this round for 3x1 Rib.
Using Crochet Cast On and
MC, CO 50 [55, 60, 65, 70] sts onto circular needle.
Work in stockinette st, slipping first st of each
row, until work measures 19[20, 21.5, 23, 24.5]
inches, ending with a WS row.
K next row onto double-point needles, dividing
sts evenly between needles. Place marker and
join to begin working in the round.
*Cont in stockinette st, working in the round,
until work measures 6.5[6.5, 6.5, 7, 7.5] inches
Work stripe patt as follows:
K 12 rounds CC2.
K 3 rounds CC4.
K 5 rounds CC3.
K 8 rounds CC5.
K 1 round using MC.
[K10[11, 12, 13, 14], m1] 5 times. 55[60, 65, 70,
Cont in stockinette st,
using MC, until work measures 20 [20, 20.5, 21,
21.5] inches from join, or desired length.
P 1 row.
BO all sts knitwise.*
Remove crochet chain from
CO edge and place live sts on double-point needles,
dividing evenly between needles. Place marker and
join to begin working in the round.
Work from * to * as for
first sleeve. When completed, finished piece will
resemble a shrug, with a large opening at the center,
between two sleeves.
Designate one edge
of this opening as the front, and the other
edge as the back. (When the finished sweater
is worn, the “front” edge of this
piece will form the side and back edges of
the neckline.) Place a split ring marker or
safety pin at the center of the back edge,
and at each corner of the opening (the points
where the front and back edges meet). Place
a marker or pin 3.25[3.75, 4.5, 5, 5.5] inches
from each corner, along the front edge. (See
Using MC and circular
needle, CO 48[48, 48, 48, 52] sts.
Lay the sleeve section so that the opening faces
up, with the front edge towards you.
Continuing from the stitches you have just cast
on and beginning at the front marker on your left,
pick up and k 16[19, 22, 25, 28] sts between front
marker and side marker (approx. 4 sts for every
5 rows), pick up and k 80[86, 92, 98, 108] sts along
the back edge (approx. 7 sts for every 10 rows),
and 16[19, 22, 25, 28] sts between side marker and
front marker. 160[172, 184, 196, 216] sts on needle.
Ensuring that CO sts are
not twisted, join to begin working in the round.
Work in 3x1 Rib to side
marker, remove split marker or pin and place stitch
marker to indicate beg of round. Remove remaining
Work 11[12, 13, 14, 16]
rounds in 3x1 Rib using MC.
Continuing in 3x1 Rib,
work in stripe patt as follows:
Work 6 rounds CC4.
Work 4 rounds CC3.
Work 11 rounds CC1.
Work 14 rounds MC.
Work 6 rounds CC5.
Work 11 rounds CC2.
Work 16 rounds CC3.
Work 4 rounds CC4.
Work 16 rounds CC5.
in MC until work measures 17.5[18, 18.5, 19, 19.5]
inches, or desired length. BO loosely in patt.
Weave in ends.
Try on sweater. If neckline
seems too loose, use MC to sew edges of Sleeves and
edges of Body together until neckline is desired size.
Block as desired. Be sure
not to stretch ribbed body while blocking!
lives in Brooklyn with a lot of yarn.
When she isn't knitting, she rambles about knitting
| Pattern & images
© 2005 Cassie Rovitti. Contact Cassie