INTRODUCTION

Lipsky

by Rachel Brockman

Named after the painter, Pat Lipsky, this statement vest is inspired by her use of bold colors and geometric forms. However, it is also inspired by the joyful color play of the 1980s. While vests have traditionally been worn in more preppy or minimalist fashion, the Lipsky vest is quirky and contemporary. It incorporates the resurgence of trends such as color blocking and checkerboard patterning yet remains a versatile essential in your wardrobe. Layer it over a tee, dress shirt, or don't layer it at all – just have fun with this graphic piece.

The Lipsky vest provides an opportunity to dip your feet into a variety of colorwork techniques including simple stranded color work, intarsia worked flat, intarsia worked in the round, and stripes. Don't be intimidated – each technique is implemented in a way that's a breeze to execute and it's a great building-block project that surely won't bore you.

This vest is knit using plump, bouncy Fibra Natura Dona. This DK-weight yarn boasts superb stitch definition and a palette of lively, saturated colors. The soft, 100% extra fine merino makes this piece so pleasant to knit with and is light enough for trans-seasonal wear. Select five exciting colors to make this piece as unique as you!

model: Talya Ozbelli

photos: Rachel Brockman

SIZE

 XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X]
shown in size Small, modeled with 3 inches / 7.5 cm ease

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Bust:  32.75[37, 41.5, 45.75, 48, 52.25, 56.75, 61, 65.5] inches / 83[94, 105.5, 116, 122, 132.5, 144, 155, 166.5] cm
Length from Shoulder:  21.75[22.25, 22.75, 23.5, 24, 24.5, 25.25, 25.75, 26.25] inches / 55[56.5, 58, 59.5, 61, 62, 64, 65.5, 66.5] cm

MATERIALS

Yarn
Fibra Natura Dona [100% superwash extra fine merino wool; 126 yds/115 m per 50g];
Color A: 102 Daffodil: 2[2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4] balls
Color B: 119 Clear Day: 2[2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4] balls
Color C: 127 Real Teal: 1 ball (all sizes)
Color D: 114 Camellia: 2[2, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 5] balls
Color E: 135 Buttercup: 1[1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 3] balls

Yarn Characteristics:
Dona is a DK weight, S-on-S plied superwash extra fine merino wool yarn. The construction creates a plump, bouncy yarn that retains a lightweight feel. The yarn is smooth and provides excellent stitch definition, making the changes in colors crisp.

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below - every knitter's gauge is unique]
Needle A: US #6/4mm circular, 30-48 inches / 80-120 cm length
Needle B: US #7/4.5mm, 30-48 inches / 80-120 cm length
Needle C: US #5/3.75mm, 30-48 inches / 80-120 cm length (for Hem)
Needle C: US #5/3.75mm, 16 inches / 40cm length (for Neckband and Armhole Edging)
Note: For working the body in the round, choose a circular needle with a cord length that is smaller than the finished Bust measurement for your chosen size.

Notions
stitch marker (one unique stitch marker to denote beginning of round)
removable stitch markers
stitch holders or waste yarn
yarn needle

GAUGE

22 sts x 30 rows/rnds = 4 inches / 10 cm in Stockinette Stitch with Needle A
22 sts x 26 rnds = 4 inches / 10 cm in Checkered Stripes patt with Needle B

PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

This sweater is worked seamlessly from the top down. It begins with the Back shoulders and is worked flat to the underarms, then stitches are placed on a holder. Stitches for the Left and Right Front are picked up from the Back shoulder stitches and worked flat to the underarms. Short rows are used to shape the shoulders. At the underarms, the Back and Fronts are joined together, and the remainder of the vest is worked in the round. Stiches for the Neckband and Armhole Edging are picked up and worked in the round.

This pattern features a sampling of color play and incorporates the following techniques: intarsia worked flat, intarsia worked in the round, stranded colorwork, and stripes.

Working intarsia "in the round" is a somewhat deceptive description. Although the piece is joined in the round, it is actually worked back and forth in rows, in the same manner as working intarsia flat. The distinction is that at the beginning of each row, there is a yarnover that is then worked together with the first stitch on the opposite side of the beginning-of-round marker, ensuring the piece is joined. Specific instructions for this method are provided in the pattern.

Working Intarsia (flat or in the round): When changing yarns, bring the new strand up from underneath the previous strand, twisting the yarns together to prevent holes in work.

The stranded colorwork pattern is both written in the pattern and charted. When working in the Checkerboard Stripes section, take care to ensure your floats are not too tight to avoid puckering in the fabric. Larger needles are recommended in this pattern as your gauge in stranded knitting is typically tighter than your gauge in simple Stockinette stitch. If you notice that your work is beginning to pucker, you may wish to turn your work inside-out as carrying your floats on the outside of your work will allow them a bit more room.

CHARTS

Checkerboard Stripes
(multiple of 6 sts, worked in the rnd)
Rnd 1: With color C, knit.
Rnds 2-4: *K3 in color D, k3 in color E; rep from * to end.
Rnds 5-7: *K3 in color E, k3 in color D; rep from * to end.
Rnds 8-10: Rep Rnds 2-4.
Rnd 11: With color C, knit.
Rnds 12-14: Rep Rnds 5-7.
Rnds 15-17: Rep Rnds 2-4.
Rnds 18-20: Rep Rnds 5-7.
Rep Rnds 1-20 for patt.

DIRECTIONS

Back
With Yarn A and Needle A, CO 37[41, 44, 45, 47, 49, 50, 51, 52] sts, pm, with Yarn B, CO 37[41, 44, 45, 47, 49, 50, 51, 52] sts. 74[82, 88, 90, 94, 98, 100, 102, 104] sts total.

Place a removable marker into the fabric on each side of the center 46[48, 48, 50, 50, 52, 52, 54, 54] sts to denote centre neck sts. 14[17, 20, 20, 22, 23, 24, 24, 25] sts for each Right & Left shoulders.

Row 1 [WS]: With Yarn B, purl to m, sl m, with Yarn A, purl to end.
Row 2 [RS]: With Yarn A, knit to m, sl m, with Yarn B, knit to end.
Note: Continue switching between Yarns A and B when you arrive at the center stitch marker throughout remainder of Back.

Shape shoulders:
Row 3 [WS]: Purl in Yarns A and B as est.
Row 4: Patt to last 4[5, 6, 6, 6, 7, 7, 7, 7] sts, w&t.
Row 5: Patt to last 4[5, 6, 6, 6, 7, 7, 7, 7] sts, w&t.
Row 6: Patt to 4[4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 7] sts before last wrapped st, w&t.
Row 7: Patt to 4[4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 7] sts before last wrapped st, w&t.
Row 8: Patt to 3[4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 7] sts before last wrapped st, w&t.
Row 9: Patt to 3[4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 7] sts before last wrapped st, w&t.
Row 10: Patt to end, working wraps together with their corresponding sts.
Row 11: Patt to end, working wraps together with their corresponding sts.

Work even in St st and Yarns A and B as est until piece measures 6.5[6.75, 6.75, 6.5, 7.25, 7.25, 7, 6.75, 6.5] inches / 16.5[17, 17, 16.5, 18.5, 18.5, 18, 17, 16.5] cm from cast-on edge when measured at side edge, ending after a WS row.

Shape underarms:
Row 1 [RS]: K1, m1L, patt to last st, m1R, k1. 2 sts increased.
Row 2 [WS]: Patt to end.
Rep last 2 rows 5[6, 7, 10, 9, 11, 14, 17, 20] more times. 86[96, 104, 112, 114, 122, 130, 138, 146] sts.

Next 2 rows: Patt to end, using backwards loop method, CO 2[3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 15, 17] sts.

Break yarn and place these 90[102, 114, 126, 132, 144, 156, 168, 180] sts on holder.

Left Front Shoulder
With RS facing, Yarn A, Needle A, and beginning at left-most removable marker, pick up and knit 14[17, 20, 20, 22, 23, 24, 24, 25] sts evenly across cast-on sts of Left Back (working from removable marker towards the side edge).

Row 1 [WS]: Purl.
Row 2 [RS]: Knit to last 4[5, 6, 6, 6, 7, 7, 7, 7] sts, w&t.
Row 3: Purl.
Row 4: Knit to 4[4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 7] sts before last wrapped st, w&t.
Row 5: Purl.
Row 6: Knit to 3[4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 7] sts before last wrapped st, w&t.
Row 7: Purl.
Row 8: Knit, working wraps together with their corresponding sts.

Sizes XS[S, M, -, 1X, 2X, 3X, -, -] Only:

Shape Left Front Neck:
Neck inc row [RS]: K1, m1R, knit to end. 1 st inc'd.
Even row [WS]: Purl.
Rep last 2 rows 22[23, 23, -, 24, 25, 25, -, -] more times. 37[41, 44, -, 47, 49, 50, -, -] sts.

Break yarn and place sts on stitch holder. Proceed to All Sizes - Right Front Shoulder.

Sizes -[-, -, L, -, -, -, 4X, 5X] Only:

Shape Left Front Neck:
Neck inc row [RS]: K1, m1R, knit to end. 1 st increased.
Even row [WS]: Purl.
Rep last 2 rows -[-, -, 22, -, -, -, 23, 22] more times. -[-, -, 43, -, -, -, 48, 48] sts.

Shape Left Front armhole:
Neck and armhole inc row [RS]: K1, m1R (neck increase), knit to last st, m1L (armhole increase), k1. 2 sts increased.
Even row [WS]: Purl.
Rep last 2 rows -[-, -, 0, -, -, -, 1, 2] more time(s). -[-, -, 45, -, -, -, 52, 54] sts.
Break yarn and place sts on stitch holder.

All Sizes:

Right Front Shoulder
With RS facing, Yarn B, Needle A, and beginning at Right Back shoulder edge, pick up and knit 14[17, 20, 20, 22, 23, 24, 24, 25] sts evenly across cast-on sts of Back Right Shoulder, ending at removable marker in fabric.

Row 1 [WS]: Purl.
Row 2 [RS]: Knit.
Row 3: Purl to last 4[5, 6, 6, 6, 7, 7, 7, 7] sts, w&t.
Row 4: Knit.
Row 5: Purl to 4[4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 7] sts before last wrapped st, w&t.
Row 6: Knit.
Row 7: Purl to 3[4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 7] sts before last wrapped st, w&t.
Row 8: Knit.
Row 9: Purl, working wraps together with their corresponding sts.

Sizes XS[S, M, -, 1X, 2X, 3X, -, -] ONLY

Shape Right Front Neck:
Neck inc row [RS]: Knit to last st, m1L, k1. 1 st increased.
Even row [WS]: Purl.
Rep last 2 rows 22[23, 23, -, 24, 25, 25, -, -] more times. 37[41, 44, -, 47, 49, 50, -, -] sts.

Join Right and Left Front:
Note: You will now begin using the Intarsia technique (worked flat).
Row 1 [RS]: With Yarn B, work across 37[41, 44, -, 47, 49, 50, -, -] Right Front sts, pm, with Yarn A, work across 37[41, 44, -, 47, 49, 50, -, -] Left Front sts from holder. 74[82, 88, -, 94, 98, 100, -, -] sts.
Row 2 [WS]: With Yarn A, purl to m, sl m, with Yarn B, purl to end.

Shape underarms:
Inc row [RS]: K1, m1L, knit to last st, m1R, k1. 2 sts increased.
Even row [WS]: Purl.
Rep last 2 rows 5[6, 7, -, 9, 11, 14, -, -] more times. 86[96, 104, -, 114, 122, 130, -, -] sts.

Next 2 rows: Patt to end, using backwards loop method, CO 2[3, 5, -, 9, 11, 13, -, -] sts.

Break yarn and place these 90[102, 114, -, 132, 144, 156, -, -] sts on holder.

Proceed to All Sizes - Join Front and Back.

Sizes -[-, -, L, -, -, -, 4X, 5X] Only:

Shape Right Front Neck:
Neck inc row [RS]: Knit to last st, m1L, k1. 1 st increased.
Even row [WS]: Purl.
Rep last 2 rows -[-, -, 22, -, -, -, 23, 22] more times. -[-, -, 43, -, -, -, 48, 48] sts.

Shape Right Front Armhole:
Neck and armhole inc row [RS]: K1, m1R (Armhole increase), knit to last st, m1L (Neck increase), k1. 2 sts increased.
Even row [WS]: Purl.
Rep last 2 rows -[-, -, 0, -, -, -, 1, 2] more time(s). -[-, -, 45, -, -, -, 52, 54] sts.

Join Right and Left Front
Note: You will now begin using the Intarsia technique (worked flat).

Row 1 [RS]: With Yarn B, k1, m1R, work across last -[-, -, 44, -, -, -, 51, 53] Right Front sts, pm, with Yarn A, work across first -[-, -, 44, -, -, -, 51, 53] Left Front sts (from holder or waste yarn), m1L, k1. 2 sts increased. -[-, -, 92, -, -, -, 106, 110] sts.
Row 2 [WS]: With Yarn A, purl to m, sl m, with Yarn B, purl to end.

Row 3 [inc row]: With Yarn B, k1, m1R, knit to m, sl m, with Yarn A, knit to last st, m1L, k1. 2 sts increased.
Row 4 [even row]: With Yarn A, purl to m, sl m, with Yarn B, purl to end.
Rep last 2 rows -[-, -, 9, -, -, -, 15, 17] more times. -[-, -, 112, -, -, -, 138, 146] sts.

Next 2 rows: Patt to end, using backwards loop method, CO -[-, -, 7, -, -, -, 15, 17] sts.

Break yarn and place these -[-, -, 126, -, -, -, 168, 180] sts on holder.

All Sizes:
90[102, 114, 126, 132, 144, 156, 168, 180] sts.

Join Front and Back
Note: If you wish to lengthen or shorten the vest, do so during this section. You will now begin working intarsia "in the round" (see Pattern Notes).

Return 90[102, 114, 126, 132, 144, 156, 168, 180] Back sts to needle, ready to work a RS row.

Row 1 [RS]: Place unique marker to mark beg of rnd, with Yarn A, yo onto right needle, knit to m, sl m, with Yarn B, k 45[51, 57, 63, 66, 72, 78, 84, 90] , pm, with Yarn A, k 45[51, 57, 63, 66, 72, 78, 84, 90] Left Front sts, sl m, with Yarn B, knit to last st, slip last st to right-hand needle, remove m, return slipped stitch to left needle, ssk (last st together with yo from the beginning of the row). Replace m. Turn work. 180[204, 228, 252, 264, 288, 312, 336, 360] sts.
Row 2 [WS]: With Yarn B, yo onto right needle, purl to m, sl m, with Yarn A, purl to m, sl m, with Yarn B, purl to m, sl m, with Yarn A, purl to last st, slip last st to right-hand needle, remove m, return slipped stitch to left needle, p2tog (last st together with yo from beginning of row). Replace m. Turn work.

Rep Rows 1-2 until piece measures approx. 4[4, 4, 4.25, 4.25, 4.25, 4.5, 4.5, 4.5] inches / 10[10, 10, 11, 11, 11, 11.5, 11.5, 11.5] cm from underarms, ending after a WS row.

Break Yarns A and B.

Change to Needle B.

Colorwork Section
Note: You will now begin working in rounds using the stranded method. Join Yarns C, D, and E as indicated in the pattern. This section is also charted.

Work Rnds 1-20 of Checkerboard Stripes patt twice, then rep Rnds 1-11 once more.

Break Yarns C and E. Do not break Yarn D.

Change to longer Needle C.

Hem
Rnd 1: With Yarn D, knit.
Rnd 2: With Yarn D, *k1, p1; rep from * to end.
Rnds 3-8: Rep Rnds 1-2 three more times. Join Yarn B; do not break Yarn D.
Rnds 9-10: With Yarn D, rep Rnds 1-2. Break Yarn B. Join Yarn A.
Rnds 11-12: With Yarn A, rep Rnds 1-2. Break Yarn A. Cont with Yarn D only.
Rnds 13-18: With Yarn D, rep Rnds 1-2 three more times.
Rnd 19: With Yarn D, knit.
Rnd 20: With Yarn D, BO all sts in patt as in Rnd 2.

FINISHING

Soak finished vest in cool water with a bit of soap, if desired. Remove from water, place on a towel, and roll the towel up to absorb the excess water. Unroll towel and place on a flat surface, patting it into shape. Let dry. Weave in ends.

Neckband
With Yarn C, shorter Needle C, RS facing, and beg at Right shoulder, pick up and knit 46[48, 48, 50, 50, 52, 52, 54, 54] sts along Back Neck, 40[42, 42, 44, 44, 46, 46, 48, 48] sts along Left Front Neck edge, 1 at center front neck (place a removable marker in this stitch), and 39[41, 41, 43, 43, 45, 45, 47, 47] sts along Right Front Neck edge. 126[132, 132, 138, 138, 144, 144, 150, 150] sts. PM and join to work in the rnd.

Rnd 1: With Yarn C, *k1, p1; rep from * to end. Break Yarn C. Join Yarn D.
Rnd 2: With Yarn D, knit to 1 st before marked center front st, S2KPO, knit to end. 2 sts decreased.
Rnd 3: *K1, p1; rep from * to 1 st before center front st, k2, *k1, p1; rep from * to end.
Rnd 4: Rep Rnd 2.
Rnd 5: *K1, p1; rep from * to end.
Rnd 6: Rep Rnd 2.
Rnds 7-10: Rep Rnds 3–6. 116[122, 122, 128, 128, 134, 134, 140, 140] sts rem.
BO all sts in K1, P1 patt as est.

Armhole Edging
With Yarn C, shorter Needle C, RS facing, and beg at center of underarm, pick up and knit 2[3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 15, 17] sts along cast-on edge, 96[98, 100, 110, 114, 114, 122, 134, 140] sts around armhole edge, and 2[3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 15, 17] sts along cast-on edge, PM to mark beg of rnd. 100[104, 110, 124, 132, 136, 148, 164, 174] sts.

Rnd 1: With Yarn C, *k1, p1; rep from * to end. Break Yarn C. Join Yarn D.
Rnd 2: With Yarn D, knit.
Rnds 3: With Yarn D, *k1, p1; rep from * to end.
Rnds 4-5: Rep Rnds 2-3.
Rnd 6: Rep Rnd 2.
BO all sts in K1, P1 patt as est.

Weave in rem ends. Using a low setting, gently steam block Neckband and Armhole Edging if desired.

A – Bust Circumference: 32.75[37, 41.5, 45.75, 48, 52.25, 56.75, 61, 65.5] inches / 83[94.5, 105.5, 116, 122, 132.5, 144, 155, 166.5] cm
B – Length from Shoulder:  21.75[22.25, 22.75, 23.5, 24, 24.5, 25.5, 26, 26.5] inches / 55.5[56.5, 58, 60, 61, 62.5, 65, 66, 67.5] cm
C – Length from Hem to Underarm: 13.75[13.75, 13.75, 14, 14, 14, 14.25, 14.25, 14.25] inches / 35[35, 35, 35.5, 35.5, 35.5, 36, 36, 36] cm
D – Back Armhole Depth: 8[8.5, 9, 9.5, 10, 10.5, 11, 11.5, 12] inches / 20.5[21.5, 23, 24, 25.5, 26.5, 28, 29.5, 30.5] cm
E – Front Neck Drop (including length from Shoulder Slope): 7.5[7.75, 7.75, 7.5, 8.25, 8.5, 8.5, 8.25, 8.25] inches / 19[19.5, 19.5, 19, 21, 21.5, 21.5, 21, 21] cm
F – Neck Width: 8.25[8.75, 8.75, 9, 9, 9.5, 9.5, 9.75, 9.75] inches / 21[22, 22, 23, 23, 24, 24, 25, 25] cm
G – Shoulder Width: 2.5[3, 3.75, 3.75, 4, 4.25, 4.25, 4.25, 4.5] inches / 6.5[7.5, 9.5, 9.5, 10, 11, 11, 11, 11.5] cm

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Rachel Brockman is the creative lead for Universal Yarn and also designs independently. When she isn't knitting, she's probably playing with her pups, climbing, or watching John Carpenter's The Thing for the millionth time with her husband.

You can find her on Ravelry as Racheleilei and on Instagram as rachbrocknits.

Pattern & images © 2021 Rachel Brockman