INTRODUCTION

Octave

by Stephanie Earp

When I started swatching with Cardo, a new yarn from Manos del Uruguay, I felt myself pulled in many different directions. On the one hand, the yarn has a traditional woolly feel that made me think of heirloom pieces. But the palette was giving me strong retro '70s vibes. One day I'd be looking at Adidas tracksuits for inspiration, and then next I'd be flipping through my favourite book of charted Japanese twisted stitch patterns. I finally decided to embody the “why not both” meme, and worked out a flexible blank canvas of a shape that a knitter could easily make their own.

I called this the Octave Sweater because the sleeves include panels that are 12 stitches wide, giving you 12 "notes" to play with. Two options are provided for the center sleeve panel here, and you can find more ideas at my website.

However you decide to knit yours, the relaxed boxy shape fits a bit like a drop shoulder sweater (even though it’s not constructed that way) and wears like a comfy sweatshirt, especially if you make it oversized. This combination of bottom-up and centre-out construction is a favourite of mine because it just seems to fly by! No getting stuck on sleeve island here.

model + photos: Stephanie Earp

SIZE

Women's XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X]

Teal sweater shown above in size M with 12 inches/30 cm of ease at the full bust
Red sweater shown below in size XS with 3.5 inches/8 cm of ease at the full bust

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Chest/Bust:  38.5[44, 47.5, 50.5, 54, 57.5, 63.5, 66.5, 71.5] inches / 98[112, 120.5, 128.5, 137, 146, 161.5, 169, 181.5] cm
Length:  19.75[20.25, 20.75, 21.25, 21.75, 22.75, 23.25, 23.75, 24.25] inches / 50[51.5, 52.5, 54, 55, 58, 59, 60.5, 61.5] cm

MATERIALS

Yarn
Manos Del Uruguay CARDO [100% Corriedale wool; 109 yd/100 m per 100g skein];
[MC] Teal version: D2393 North Sea; 6[7, 7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 10, 10] skeins
[MC] Red version: D2115 Sanguine; 6[7, 7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 10, 10] skeins

For Cluster stitches on Teal version only: [CC] D2026 Pumpkin; 1 skein all sizes

Yarn characteristics:
A pure wool yarn with smooth texture, traditional spin, and resilient hand, which gives pristine stitch definition.

Notions
stitch holders or waste yarn
stitch markers
cable needle (optional for sleeve twisted stitch panel)
yarn needle

GAUGE

12 sts/16 rows = 4 inches/10 cm in St st on larger needle

Because of the construction of this garment, both stitch and row gauge are important.

PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

This is an oversized garment designed to be worn with approximately 10 inches/25.5 cm positive ease at full bust.

The center panels are worked first in stockinette, then stitches for the sides of the body and sleeves are picked up along the edges of the center panels and knit sideways out to the cuffs, giving this sweater a drop-shoulder silhouette with just a hint of dolman in the sleeves.

The neck edging and ribbed hem are added last, and can be lengthened or shortened as desired.

Two options are provided for the 12-stitch center sleeve panel: the cluster stitch shown in the teal sample and a twisted stitch cable pattern shown in the red sample. The cable pattern is worked with the main color only and does not require a contrast color.

Feel free to invent your own sleeve pattern, or work the sleeve panel in plain stockinette or garter stitch as simpler options. If you add a cable pattern, be sure to swatch and note any gauge changes; you may need to add extra stitches to your panel in the initial pickup row to compensate.

Cluster Panel (worked over 12 sts)
3-into-3 Cluster: Knit 3 stitches together but do not slip sts from left needle, yarnover, knit the same 3 stitches together again, then slip them from the left needle. [3 sts made from 3 sts]
Row 1 [RS]: *K2 with MC, 3-into-3 cluster with CC; rep from * once more, k2 with MC.
Row 2 [WS]: P12 with MC.
Row 3: K12 with MC.
Row 4: P12 with MC.
Rep Rows 1–4 for patt.
Note: Do not cut the CC between repeats; carry the yarn loosely up the WS of the work to where it is needed again.

CHARTS

Twisted Stitch Panel (worked over 12 sts)
Work from chart or written instructions as you prefer.

1/1 LC: Sl 1 st onto cn and hold in front, k1, then k1 tbl from cn.
1/1 RC: Sl 1 st onto cn and hold in back, k1 tbl, then k1 from cn.
1/1 RT: Sl 1 st onto cn and hold in back, k1 tbl, then k1 tbl from cn.

Row 1 [RS]: P1, k1 tbl, 1/1 LC, k4, 1/1 RC, k1 tbl, p1.
Row 2 [WS]: K1, p1 tbl, p1, p1 tbl, p4, p1 tbl, p1, p1 tbl, k1.
Row 3: P1, k1 tbl, k1, 1/1LC, k2, 1/1 RC, k1, k1 tbl, p1.
Row 4: K1, [p1 tbl, k2] 3 times, p1 tbl, k1.
Row 5: P1, k1 tbl, k2, 1/1 LC, 1/1 RC, k2, k1 tbl, p1.
Row 6: K1, p1 tbl, k3, [p1 tbl] 2 times, k3, p1 tbl, k1.
Row 7: P1, k1 tbl, k3, 1/1 RT, k3, k1 tbl, p1.
Row 8: Rep Row 6.
Row 9: P1, k1 tbl, k2, 1/1 RC, 1/1 LC, k2, k1 tbl, p1.
Row 10: Rep Row 4.
Row 11: P1, [k1 tbl, k2] 3 times, k1 tbl, p1.
Row 12: Rep Row 4.
Row 13: Rep Row 5.
Row 14: Rep Row 6.
Row 15: Rep Row 7.
Row 16: Rep Row 6.
Row 17: Rep Row 9.
Row 18: Rep Row 4.
Row 19: P1, k1 tbl, k1, 1/1 RC, k2, 1/1 LC, k1, k1 tbl, p1.
Row 20: Rep Row 2.
Row 21: P1, k1 tbl, 1/1 RC, k4, 1/1 LC, k1 tbl, p1.
Row 22: K1, [p1 tbl] 2 times, p6, [p1 tbl] 2 times, k1.
Rep Rows 1–22 for patt.

DIRECTIONS

Center Back
With larger needle and MC, CO 31[33, 35, 37, 39, 41, 47, 49, 53] sts.

Beginning with a RS row, work in St st until piece measures 16.5[17, 17.5, 18, 18.5, 19.5, 20, 20.5, 21] inches / 42[43, 44.5, 45.5, 47, 49.5, 51, 52, 53.5] cm from CO, ending with a WS row.

Work neck and shoulders:
Next row [RS]: K 7[8, 9, 10, 11, 11, 14, 14, 16] , BO center 17[17, 17, 17, 17, 19, 19, 21, 21] sts, knit to end.

Allowing right back shoulder sts to rest on the needle, continue on left back shoulder sts only as follows:
Next row [WS]: Purl.
Next row [RS]: K1, ssk, knit to end. 1 st decreased at neck edge.
Rep the last 2 rows once more. 5[6, 7, 8, 9, 9, 12, 12, 14] left shoulder sts rem.
Cut yarn, leaving a 24-inch/61-cm tail. Place sts on holder or waste yarn.

With WS facing, rejoin MC to 7[8, 9, 10, 11, 11, 14, 14, 16] right shoulder sts on needle.
Next row [WS]: Purl.
Next row [RS]: Knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 1 st decreased at neck edge.
Rep the last 2 rows once more. 5[6, 7, 8, 9, 9, 12, 12, 14] right shoulder sts rem.
Cut yarn, leaving a 24-inch/61-cm tail. Place sts on holder or waste yarn.

Center Front
With larger needle and MC, CO 31[33, 35, 37, 39, 41, 47, 49, 53] sts.

Work in St st until piece measures 14[14.5, 15, 15.5, 16, 17, 17.5, 18, 18.5] inches / 35.5[37, 38, 39.5, 40.5, 43, 44.5, 45.5, 47] cm from CO, ending with a WS row.

Work neck and shoulders:
Next row [RS]: K 9[10, 11, 12, 13, 13, 16, 16, 18] , BO center 13[13, 13, 13, 13, 15, 15, 17, 17] sts, knit to end.

Allowing left front shoulder sts to rest on the needle, continue on right front shoulder sts only as follows:
Next row [WS]: Purl.
Next row [RS]: K1, ssk, knit to end. 1 st decreased at neck edge.
Rep the last 2 rows 3 more times. 5[6, 7, 8, 9, 9, 12, 12, 14] right shoulder sts rem.

Work even in St st until piece measures 17.75[18.25, 18.75, 19.25, 19.75, 20.75, 21.25, 21.75, 22.25] inches / 45[46.5, 47.5, 49, 50, 52.5, 54, 55, 56.5] cm from CO.
Cut yarn, leaving a 6-inch/15-cm tail. Place sts on holder or waste yarn.

With WS facing, rejoin MC to 9[10, 11, 12, 13, 13, 16, 16, 18] left front shoulder sts on needle.
Next row [WS]: Purl.
Next row [RS]: Knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 1 st decreased at neck edge.
Rep the last 2 rows 3 more times. 5[6, 7, 8, 9, 9, 12, 12, 14] left shoulder sts rem.
Work even in St st until piece measures same length as back.
Cut yarn, leaving a 6-inch/15-cm tail. Place sts on holder or waste yarn.

Join Shoulders
Place 5[6, 7, 8, 9, 9, 12, 12, 14] held sts of right front and right back shoulders on separate needles. Hold with RS together, so that you’re looking at the WS, and using larger needle tip as the working needle and 24-inch/61-cm tail attached to back, join sts using the Three-Needle Bind Off method. Join left shoulder sts in the same manner.



Wash pieces according to care instructions for the yarn and lay flat to dry.

Left Side and Sleeve
Using larger needle and MC, with RS facing and beg at lower left front corner of joined center body panels, pick up and knit 49[50, 52, 53, 55, 57, 59, 60, 62] sts along left front selvedge to shoulder join, 2 sts in join, and 49[50, 52, 53, 55, 57, 59, 60, 62] sts along left back selvedge. 100[102, 106, 108, 112, 116, 120, 122, 126] sts.

Setup Row [WS]: P 44[45, 47, 48, 50, 52, 54, 55, 57] , pm, p12, pm, purl to end.

Shape sleeve:
Notes: As you work the following shaping, start working the marked center 12 stitches in the pattern of your choice on the next RS row, keeping the stitches on each side of the marked panel in stockinette. Instructions are provided in the Pattern Notes for the Cluster Panel (shown in the teal sample) and Twisted Stitch Panel (shown in the red sample).

Working marked center sts in patt, work 4[2, 4, 0, 2, 0, 2, 4, 2] rows even, ending with a WS row.

Upper Arm Decrease Row [RS]: Knit to 3 sts before first m, k2tog, k1, sl m, work 12 sts in established patt, sl m, k1, ssk, knit to end. 2 sts decreased.
Work 5[5, 5, 5, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3] rows even as established, beg and ending with a WS row.
Rep the last 6[6, 6, 6, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4] rows 1[2, 2, 3, 5, 6, 6, 6, 7] more times. 96[96, 100, 100, 100, 102, 106, 108, 110] sts; continue even as required until piece measures 4.5[5.5, 6, 6.5, 7, 7.5, 8, 9.5, 9] inches / 11.5[14, 15, 16.5, 18, 19, 20.5, 21.5, 23] cm from pickup.

Shape sides:
Next row [RS]: BO 21 sts for all sizes, knit to 3 sts before first m, k2tog, k1, sl m, work 12 sts in established patt, sl m, k1, ssk, knit to end. 73[73, 77, 77, 77, 79, 83, 85, 87] sts.
Next row [WS]: BO 21 sts for all sizes, purl to m, sl m, work 12 sts in established patt, sl m, purl to end. 52[52, 56, 56, 56, 58, 62, 64, 66] sts.

Work underarm shaping as follows:
Next row [RS]: K1, k2tog, work in patt to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. 2 sts decreased.
Next row [WS]: P1, p2tog tbl, work in patt to last 3 sts, p2tog, p1. 48[48, 52, 52, 52, 54, 58, 60, 62] sts.

Work next row according to your size as follows:
Sizes 38.5[44, 47.5, 50.5, -, -, -, -, -] inches / 98[112, 120.5, 128.5, -, -, -, -, -] cm only:
Next row [RS]: K1, k2tog, work in patt to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. 46[46, 50, 50, -, -, -, -, -] sts.

Sizes -[-, -, -, 54, 57.5, 63.5, 66.5, 71.5] inches / -[-, -, -, 137, 146, 161.5, 169, 181.5] cm only:
Next row [RS] K1, k2tog, knit to 3 sts before first m, k2tog, k1, sl m, work 12 sts in established patt, sl m, k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. -[-, -, -, 48, 50, 54, 56, 58] sts.

All Sizes:
Work 1[1, 1, 1, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3] rows even, ending with a WS row.

Rep Upper Arm Decrease Row. 2 sts decreased.
Work 3 rows even as established for all sizes, ending with a WS row.
Rep the last 4 rows 9[9, 10, 9, 8, 8, 10, 10, 10] times, then work the Upper Arm Decrease Row once more. 24[24, 26, 28, 28, 30, 30, 32, 34] sts rem

Work even as established until sleeve measures 14.5[13.5, 13, 12.5, 12, 12.5, 13, 13.5, 14] inches / 37[34.5, 33, 32, 30.5, 32, 33, 34.5, 35.5] cm from side body BO rows, and entire side and sleeve piece measures 19[19, 19, 19, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23] inches / 48.5[48.5, 48.5, 48.5, 48.5, 51, 53.5, 56, 59.5] cm from pickup row, decreasing 0[0, 2, 0, 0, 2, 2, 0, 2] sts in last row. 24[24, 24, 28, 28, 28, 28, 32, 32] sts.

Change to shorter circular needle in smaller size.

Next row [RS]: *K1, p1, rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.
Next row [WS]: P2, *k1, p1; rep from * to end.
Rep the last 2 rows until rib measures 1.5 inches/4 cm for all sizes or desired length, ending with a WS row.
BO all sts in rib patt.

Right Side and Sleeve
Using larger needle and MC, with RS facing and beg at lower right back corner of joined center body panels, pick up and knit 49[50, 52, 53, 55, 57, 59, 60, 62] sts along right back selvedge to shoulder join, 2 sts in join, and 49[50, 52, 53, 55, 57, 59, 60, 62] sts along right front selvedge. 100[102, 106, 108, 112, 116, 120, 122, 126] sts.

Complete as for Left Side and Sleeve.

FINISHING

Sew sleeve and side seams using mattress stitch.

Hem
Using longer circular needle in smaller size and MC, with RS facing and beg at center back, pick up and knit 116[128, 140, 152, 164, 172, 188, 200, 212] sts evenly around lower edge. Pm and join for working in the rnd.
Rib Rnd: *K1, p1; rep from * to end.
Rep this rnd until hem measures 2 inches/5 cm or desired length.
BO all sts in rib patt.

Neckband
Using shorter circular needle in smaller size and MC, with RS facing and beg at center back neck, pick up and knit 54[54, 54, 54, 54, 58, 58, 62, 62] sts evenly around neckline. Pm and join for working in the rnd.
Rib Rnd: *K1, p1; rep from * to end.
Rep this rnd until neckband measures 1.5 inches/4 cm or desired length.
BO all sts in rib patt.

Weave in ends. To block, soak in cool water, press out as much water as possible without wringing the garment, then lay flat to dry, shaping to measurements; the neckband is not shown on the schematic.

A – Centre panel width: 10.25[11, 11.5, 12.25, 13, 13.5, 15.5, 16.25, 17.5] inches/ 26[28, 29, 31, 33, 34.5, 39.5, 41.5, 44.5] cm
B – Body length without hem: 17.75[18.25, 18.75, 19.25, 19.75, 20.75, 21.25, 21.75, 22.25] inches/ 45[46.5, 47.5, 49, 50, 52.5, 54, 55, 56.5] cm
C – Shoulder width: 1.5[2, 2.25, 2.5, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4.5] inches/ 4[5, 5.5, 6.5, 7.5, 7.5, 10, 10, 11.5] cm
D – Back neck width: 7 inches/18 cm
E – Neck drop: 2.5 inches/6.5 cm
F – Side panel width: 4.75[5.25, 6, 6.5, 7.25, 7.75, 8, 8.5, 9] inches/ 12[13.5, 15, 16.5, 18.5, 19.5, 20.5, 21.5, 23] cm
G – Armhole depth: 17.25[18, 19.25, 20, 21.25, 22.5, 24, 24.5, 26] inches/ 44[45.5, 49, 51, 54, 57, 61, 62, 66] cm
H – Sleeve length from underarm: 15.75[15.25, 14.5, 14, 13.25, 13.75, 14.5, 15, 15.5] inches/ 40[38.5, 37, 35.5, 33.5, 35, 37, 38, 39.5] cm
I – Cuff circumference: 8[8, 8.75, 9.25, 9.25, 10, 10, 10.75, 10.75] inches/ 20.5[20.5, 22, 23.5, 23.5, 25.5, 25.5, 27.5, 27.5] cm
J – Body length from underarm without hem: 7 inches/18cm
K – Hem: 2.5 inches/6.5 cm
L – Body circumference: 39[43, 45, 51, 55, 59, 63, 67, 71] inches/ 99[109, 114.5, 129.5, 139.5, 150, 160, 170, 180.5] cm