INTRODUCTION

Queen's Gambit

by Cissy Yao

This is a modern cropped tank top featuring a deceptively simple checkerboard pattern—perhaps the perfect outfit for attending your local chess championship in style?

This pattern uses a vertical pinstriping technique that's only added during finishing, so you only need to deal with simple horizontal stripes during knitting. Worked in the round from the bottom up, it's a quick knit with gorgeous results.

The yarn used is Mayflower Cotton Merino, a 50/50 blend of superwash merino and cotton. The result is a soft, cozy fabric that's breathable and easy care. A sport-weight sock yarn would also make a good substitute. The design includes around 2-4 inches/5-10 cm of positive ease for a relaxed but modern fit.

Credit to Techknitter for the vertical pinstriping technique used in this pattern.

model: Cissy Yao

photos: James Lui

SIZE

Women's XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X]
shown in size L with 4 inches/20 cm of positive ease

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Chest circumference at underarm:  32[36.25, 40, 44.25, 48, 52.25, 56, 60.25, 64] inches / 81.5[92, 101.5, 112.5, 122, 132.5, 142, 153, 162.5] cm
Length:  18.25[18.5, 19, 19.5, 20.25, 20.75, 21.25, 22, 22.25] inches /  46.5[47, 48.5, 49.5, 51.5, 52.5, 54, 56, 56.5] cm

MATERIALS

Yarn
Mayflower Cotton Merino [50% virgin superwash wool, 50% cotton; 186yds/170m per 50g skein];
[MC] Purple Melange (205); 4[4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7] skeins
[CC] Charcoal (04); 1 skein
Note: Only a tiny amount of the CC yarn is used. You can use a bit of sport-weight leftover yarn instead.

Yarn Characteristics
The sample uses a softly plied 50%/50% Merino-cotton blend. It makes for a light fabric that's warm but not too dense. The cotton lends good definition while the wool content helps to soften the finished fabric.

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below - every knitter's gauge is unique]
US #4/3.5mm circular needle, 32 inches/80cm long
US #2/2.75mm circular needle, 32 inches/80cm long
US #2/2.75mm circular needle, 16-20 inches/40-50cm long (for neckband)
US D-3/3.25mm crochet hook
One stitch marker
One stitch holder (or scrap yarn)

Notions
tapestry needle
2 stitch markers (1 removable)

GAUGE

22 sts / 30 rounds = 4 inches / 10 cm in stockinette stitch on US #4/3.5mm needles
22 sts / 35 rounds = 4 inches / 10 cm in Checkerboard stitch on US #4/3.5mm needles

PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

The checkerboard stitch pattern colorwork is surprisingly easy to work, but does result in a generous number of ends to weave in. I personally don't mind weaving in ends, but you've been warned!

The checkerboard stitch pattern looks best when not stretched, so plan for knitting a size that provides positive ease. (As-is, the pattern includes 2-4 inches/5-10 cm of positive ease.)

I suggest using a sloped bind off method to avoid "stair steps" at the armholes and neckline.

STITCH PATTERNS

Checkerboard Stitch (worked in the round)
(worked over multiple of 12 sts)
Rounds 1-15: With MC, (K11, p1) to end of round. Do not break yarn.
Round 16: Do not break MC. Attach CC. With CC, (K11, p1) to end of round. Break CC.
Repeat Rounds 1-16 for patt.

Checkerboard Stitch (worked flat)
(worked over multiple of 12 sts)
Rows 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13 & 15 [RS]: With MC, (K11, p1) to end of row.
Rows 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12 & 14 [WS]: With MC, (K1, p11) to end of row.
Row 16 [WS]: Break MC and attach CC. With CC, (K1, p11) to end of round. Break CC and reattach MC.
Repeat Rows 1-16 for patt.

Note: Alternatively, if there is no shaping on the CC rows, you can avoid breaking the MC yarn while working flat by attaching the CC yarn, working the CC row as usual, and breaking the CC. Then, without turning the work, slide the stitches to the other end of the circular needle, then continue working using the MC yarn. Note that this will change the RS/WS orientation of the following 16-row repeat.

DIRECTIONS

Body
Using smaller needles and MC, CO 176[200, 220, 244, 264, 288, 308, 332, 352] sts. Join in the round, being careful not to twist. Place removable markers for beg of round and after 88[100, 110, 122, 132, 144, 154, 166, 176] sts to mark side ‘seam'.

Round 1: (K1, p1) to end of round.
Repeat Round 1 until work measures 1.75[2, 2, 2, 2, 2.25, 2.25, 2.25, 2.25] inches / 4.5[5, 5, 5, 5, 5.5, 5.5, 5.5, 5.5] cm from CO edge.

Begin Checkerboard Pattern:
Change to larger needles.
Join CC (do not break MC).
Knit 1 round in CC.
Cut CC and cont with MC.

Next round: *K 7[1, 6, 0, 5, 11, 4, 10, 3] , p1, work Round 1 of Checkerboard stitch 6[8, 8, 10, 10, 10, 12, 12, 14] times, k 8[2, 7, 1, 6, 11, 5, 10, 4] sts, p 0[0, 0, 0, 0, 1, 0, 1, 0] , sl m, repeat from * once more.

Continue in Checkerboard pattern and side sts as est until work measures 10.75[11, 11, 11, 11.25, 11.25, 11.25, 11.5, 11.75] inches / 27.5[28, 28, 28, 28.5, 28.5, 28.5, 29, 30] cm from CO edge, or desired length to underarm.

Work 1 more round in patt, ending 2[4, 6, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 8] sts before end of round.

Divide for Front and Back:
Next round: BO 3[7, 11, 11, 11, 13, 13, 15, 15] sts (removing m), patt 85[93, 99, 111, 121, 131, 141, 151, 161] . Turn, placing unworked sts of row on holder for Back.

Front

**Shape armholes:
Note: Keep pattern correct during shaping.

Row 1 [WS]: Sl 1, patt to end.
Row 2 [RS]: BO 1[2, 3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6] sts, patt to end. 84[91, 96, 107, 117, 127, 136, 146, 155] sts.
Row 3 [WS]: BO 1[2, 3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6] sts, patt to end. 83[89, 93, 103, 113, 123, 131, 141, 149] sts.

Sizes L-5X Only:
Row 4 [RS]: BO -[-, -, 1, 3, 3, 5, 5, 5] sts, patt to end. -[-, -, 102, 110, 120, 126, 136, 144] sts.
Row 5 [WS]: BO -[-, -, 1, 3, 3, 5, 5, 5] sts, patt to end. -[-, -, 101, 107, 117, 121, 131, 139] sts.

All Sizes:
Dec row [RS]: K2, k2tog, patt to last 4 sts, ssk, k2. 2 sts decreased.
Even row [WS]: Work even in patt.
Repeat last 2 rows 0[1, 1, 2, 4, 8, 9, 13, 14] times more. 81[85, 89, 95, 97, 99, 101, 103, 109] sts.***

Work even in patt until work measures 5[5, 5.5, 5.5, 6, 6.5, 6.5, 7, 7] inches / 12.5[12.5, 14, 14, 15, 16.5, 16.5, 18, 18] cm from underarm or desired length to Front neck, ending after a WS row.

**** Shape neck:
Row 1 [RS]: Patt 35[37, 38, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 48] , join new ball of MC and BO 11[11, 13, 13, 13, 13, 13, 13, 13] sts, patt to end. 35[37, 38, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 48] sts each for Left/Right Front.

Cont to work both sides separate at the same time with separate balls of yarn.

Row 2 [WS]: Patt across Right Front; BO 7[7, 8, 8, 8, 9, 9, 9, 9] sts, patt to end. 35[37, 38, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 48] sts for Right Front, 28[30, 30, 33, 34, 34, 35, 36, 39] sts for Left Front.
Row 3 [RS]: Patt across Left Front; BO 7[7, 8, 8, 8, 9, 9, 9, 9] sts, patt to end. 28[30, 30, 33, 34, 34, 35, 36, 39] sts each for Left/Right Front.
Row 4 [WS]: Work even in patt.

Neck dec row [RS]: Patt to last 4 sts of Left Front, k2tog, k2; k2, ssk, patt to end. 1 st decreased on each side.
Even row [WS]: Work even in patt.
Repeat last 2 rows 1[2, 0, 1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2] more times. 26[27, 29, 31, 31, 31, 32, 33, 36] sts each for Left/Right Front.

Work even in patt until work measures 7[7, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5, 10, 10] inches / 18[18, 19, 20.5, 21.5, 23, 24, 25.5, 25.5] cm from underarm or desired length to shoulder, ending after a WS row.

Shape shoulders:
Cont in patt and working each side separately, BO 9[9, 10, 10, 10, 10, 11, 11, 12] sts at beg of next 4 rows, then BO each set of rem 8[9, 9, 11, 11, 11, 10, 11, 12] sts on next RS row.

Back
With RS facing, join MC to sts held for Back.
Next row [RS]: BO 3[7, 11, 11, 11, 13, 13, 15, 15] sts (removing m), patt to end. 85[93, 99, 111, 121, 131, 141, 151, 161] sts.

Work as for Front from ** to ***.

Work even in patt until work measures 6[5.75, 6.75, 7, 7.25, 7.75, 8.25, 8.75, 8.75] inches / 15[14.5, 17, 18, 18.5, 19.5, 21, 22, 22] cm from armpit BO or 1[1.25, 0.75, 1, 1.25, 1.25, 1.25, 1.25, 1.25] inch / 2.5[3, 2, 2.5, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3] cm shorter than desired length to shoulder, ending after a WS row.

Work as for Front from **** to end.

FINISHING

Add Pinstriping:

1. Using crochet hook and with RS facing, pull up a loop of CC through the center of the first purl stitch above the 1x1 ribbing.

   

2. Insert the hook into the purl stitch above the previous stitch and pull up a loop.
   

   

3. Pass the first loop over the second.

Repeat Steps 2-3 until last purl stitch remains unworked. Cut yarn, leaving a long end, and pass through rem loop. Work the final stitch in duplicate stitch.

Repeat for each purl column around.

Neckband
Sew shoulder seams.

Using smaller circular needle and MC, pick up and knit 96[104, 104, 112, 116, 120, 128, 128, 128] sts around the neck opening. Pm and join to work in round.

Next round: (K1, p1) around.
Rep this round until work measures 0.5[0.5, 0.5, 0.5, 0.5, 0.5, 0.75, 0.75, 0.75] inches / 1.5[1.5, 1.5, 1.5, 1.5, 1.5, 2, 2, 2] cm.

BO very loosely in rib patt.

Weave in ends and block to measurements.

A – Chest circumference: 32[36.25, 40, 44.25, 48, 52.25, 56, 60.25, 64] inches / 81.5[92, 101.5, 112.5, 122, 132.5, 142, 153, 162.5] cm
B – Body length:  10.75[11, 11, 11, 11.25, 11.25, 11.25, 11.5, 11.75] inches / 27.5[28, 28, 28, 28.5, 28.5, 28.5, 29, 30] cm
C – Armhole length: 7[7, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5, 10, 10] inches / 18[18, 19, 20.5, 21.5, 23, 24, 25.5, 25.5] cm
D – Shoulder depth: 0.5 inches / 1.5 cm
E – Cross back width: 14.75[15.5, 16.25, 17.25, 17.75, 18, 18.25, 18.75, 19.75] inches / 37.5[39.5, 41.5, 44, 45, 45.5, 46.5, 47.5, 50] cm
F – Shoulder width:  4.75[5, 5.25, 5.75, 5.75, 5.75, 5.75, 6, 6.5] inches / 12[12.5, 13.5, 14.5, 14.5, 14.5, 14.5, 15, 16.5] cm
G – Neck width: 5.25[5.75, 5.75, 6, 6.25, 6.75, 6.75, 6.75, 6.75] inches / 13.5[14.5, 14.5, 15, 16, 17, 17, 17, 17] cm
H – Front neck depth:  2.5[2.5, 2.5, 3, 3, 3, 3.5, 3.5, 3.5] inches / 6.5[6.5, 6.5, 7.5, 7.5, 7.5, 9, 9, 9] cm
I – Back neck depth: 1[1.25, 0.75, 1, 1.25, 1.25, 1.25, 1.25, 1.25] inches / 2.5[3, 2, 2.5, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3] cm

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Cissy has been knitting nonstop since she learned in seventh grade and is obsessed with all things fiber. She can be found selling handspun yarn, fiber, and goodies as Everspace on Etsy. She can be contacted as Everspace on Ravelry, EverspaceSpins on Instagram.

Pattern & images © 2022 Cissy Yao