INTRODUCTION

Zwanzig

by Susanna IC

In what can only be called serendipity, Knitty is celebrating twentieth birthday at the same time as I have my own small twenty-year celebration. After wandering around many different places for the last two decades (both coasts, deep south, and even Europe), I've arrived back in Colorado and realized how much I've missed the mountains. I especially love seeing their dramatic shapes outlined against the western sky every evening. Well, hello there, Rocky Mountains! You are just as stunning as I remember.

It isn't every day that I get to design with a brand new yarn, particularly one as unique and intriguing as this hand-painted gorgeousness from LL Yarn Co. I wanted to create a garment that lets the yarn shine fully, so it was important to keep the stitches simple while adding textural interest to the garment. I designed the yoke using a combination of basic knits and purls, which form a sequence of triangles inspired by the geometry of the mountain peaks and the evergreens that cover them.

Happy 20th, Knitty!

model: Sujata Fretz

photos: Susanna IC

SIZE

Wmen's XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X]
shown in size S with zero ease

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Chest circumference at underarm:  31.25[35.5, 39.5, 43.75, 47.25, 51.5, 54.75, 59, 62.5] inches/ 79.5[90, 100.5, 111, 120, 131, 139, 150, 159] cm
Length:  19.5[20, 20.5, 21, 21.5, 22, 22.25, 22.5, 22.75] inches/ 49.5[51, 52, 53.5, 54.5, 56, 56.5, 57, 58] cm

Yarn
LL Yarn Worsted [100% Superwash Merino Wool; 225 yards/205 m per 3.5 oz/100 g skein]; color: Song in the Storm; 4[4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 7, 7] skeins

Yarn Characteristics
The sample shown uses a worsted-weight 3-ply superwash wool, loosely spun.

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below - every knitter's gauge is unique]
1 US #7/4.5mm circular needle, for Body
1 set of US #7/4.5mm needles for working short circumference in the round
Pair of US #6/4mm needles for working flat
1 set of US #6/4mm needles for working short circumference in the round

Notions
stitch markers
stitch holders or waste yarn
waste yarn for casting on
yarn needle

GAUGE

20 sts/28 rows = 4 inches/10 cm in stockinette stitch with larger needles

Note: gauge is always taken after blocking.

PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

Construction method: The body of this pullover is worked seamlessly in rounds from the top down with a circular yoke and narrow garter stitch bands along underarm of the body and sleeves. After the yoke is finished, sleeve stitches are placed on hold, and the body is worked in smooth stockinette with just a few increases for a comfortable A-line fit. The split hem at the bottom is worked in ribbing. The flattering elbow-length sleeves are then picked up from the live stitches and shaped with decreases, ending with ribbing. Finally, a 3-stitch I-cord bind off is worked around the neckline.

Techniques:

• provisional cast-on (photo tutorial)
• i-cord bind off (video tutorial)

CHARTS

Yoke Chart (initially worked over 7 sts)
Rounds 1-2: *P3, k1, p3; rep from * to end.
Round 3: *P1, m1p, p1, k3, p1, m1p, p1; rep from * to end. 9 sts.
Round 4: *P3, k3, p3; rep from * to end.
Round 5: *P1, m1p, p2, k3, p2, m1p, p1; rep from * to end. 11 sts.
Round 6: *P4, k3, p4; rep from * to end.
Round 7-8: *P3, k2, p1, k2, p3; rep from * to end.
Round 9: *P1, m1p, p2, k2, p1, k2, p2, m1p, p1; rep from * to end. 13 sts.
Round 10: *P4, k2, p1, k2, p4; rep from * to end.
Rounds 11-12: *P3, k2, p3, k2, p3; rep from * to end.
Round 13: *P1, m1p, p2, k2, p3, k2, p2, m1p, p1; rep from * to end. 15 sts.
Round 14: *P4, k2, p3, k2, p4; rep from * to end.
Rounds 15-16: *P3, k2, p2, k1, p2, k2, p3; rep from * to end.
Round 17: *P1, m1p, p2, k2, p2, k1, p2, k2, p2, m1p, p1; rep from * to end. 17 sts.
Round 18: *P4, k2, p2, k1, p2, k2, p4; rep from * to end.
Round 19-20: *P3, k2, p2, k3, p2, k2, p3; rep from * to end.
Round 21: *P1, m1p, p2, k2, p2, k3, p2, k2, p2, m1p, p1; rep from * to end. 19 sts.
Round 22: *P4, k2, p2, k3, p2, k2, p4; rep from * to end.
Rounds 23-24: *P3, k2, p2, k2, p1, k2, p2, k2, p3; rep from * to end.
Round 25: *P1, m1p, p2, k2, p2, k2, p1, k2, p2, k2, p2, m1p, p1; rep from * to end. 21 sts.
Round 26: *P4, k2, p2, k2, p1, k2, p2, k2, p4; rep from * to end.
Rounds 27-28: *P3, k2, p2, k2, p3, k2, p2, k2, p3; rep from * to end.
Rounds 29-30: *P2, (k2, p2) two times, k1, (p2, k2) two times, p2; rep from * to end.
Rounds 31-32: *P1, (k2, p2) two times, k3, (p2, k2) two times, p1; rep from * to end.
Round 33: Knit to end.

DIRECTIONS

Yoke
Using waste yarn and larger needle, CO 84[91, 98, 90, 96, 102, 90, 95, 100] sts.
Join for working in the round, being careful not to twist stitches.

Switch to project yarn.

Sizes XS, S & M only
Set-up round: *P7, pm; rep from * to end. 12[13, 14, -, -, -, -, -, -] chart reps marked.

Sizes L, 1X & 2X only
Set-up round: *P3, m1p, p3, pm; rep from * to end. -[-, -, 15, 16, 17, -, -, -] chart reps marked; -[-, -, 105, 112, 119, -, -, -] sts.

Sizes 3X, 4X & 5X only
Set-up round: *P2, m1p, p1, m1p, p2, pm; rep from * to end. -[-, -, -, -, -, 18, 19, 20] chart reps marked; -[-, -, -, -, -, 126, 133, 140] sts.

All sizes
Work Rounds 1-33 of Yoke Chart once. 252[273, 294, 315, 336, 357, 378, 399, 420] sts.

Work even in St st until Yoke measures 7[7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5, 9.75, 10, 10.25] inches / 18[19, 20.5, 21.5, 23, 24, 25, 25.5, 26] cm from cast-on edge.

Divide for Body and Sleeves:
Dividing round: Remove m, knit 36[41, 45, 50, 52, 57, 60, 65, 67] sts, place next 52[54, 56, 58, 62, 64, 68, 70, 74] sts on holder for Right Sleeve, CO 2[3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10] sts, pm for new beg of round, CO 2[3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10] sts, knit across next 76[83, 92, 99, 108, 115, 122, 129, 138] sts for Front, place next 52[54, 56, 58, 62, 64, 68, 70, 74] sts on holder for Left Sleeve, CO 2[3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10] sts, pm, CO 2[3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10] sts, knit rem 36[41, 45, 50, 52, 57, 60, 65, 67] sts of round, then knit to new beg of round m at center of right underarm. 156[177, 198, 219, 236, 257, 274, 295, 312] sts.

Begin Increase and Garter Band pattern:
Rounds 1, 3, 5, 7, 9: *P3, knit to 3 sts before m, p3; rep from * one more time.
Rounds 2, 4, 6, 8: Knit.
Round 10: *K4, RLI, knit to 4 sts before m, LLI, k4; rep from * one more time. 4 sts increased.
Rep Rounds 1-10, 4 more times. 176[197, 218, 239, 256, 277, 294, 315, 332] sts: 90[99, 110, 119, 130, 139, 148, 157, 168] sts for Front, 86[98, 108, 120, 126, 138, 146, 158, 164] sts for Back.

Next round: *P3, knit to 3 sts before m, p3; rep from * one more time.
Next round: Knit.
Rep last 2 rounds until piece measures 11 inches/28 cm from underarm or until Body measures approx. 1.5 inches/4cm shorter than desired length, ending after an even (knit) round.

Front Rib Band
Next row [RS]: P3, K1, RLI 1[0, 1, 0, 1, 0, 1, 0, 1] time, knit to 3 sts before m, p3. Turn and cont on these 91[99, 111, 119, 131, 139, 149, 157, 169] sts only for Front.
**Next row [WS]: P3, (p1, k1) to last 4 sts, p4.

Change to smaller needle.
Rib row 1 [RS]: P3, (k1, p1) to last 4 sts, k1, p3.
Rib row 2 [WS]: P3, (p1, k1) to last 4 sts, p4.
Rep Rib rows 1-2 3 times more, then rep Rib row 1 [RS].
Purl 1 WS row.

With larger needle, BO all sts knitwise on RS.

Back Rib Band
Return to 82[98, 90, 100, 104, 124, 130, 140, 144] sts held for Back with larger needles. Join yarn with RS facing.

Next row [RS]: P3, k1, RLI, knit to last 3 sts, p3. 87[99, 109, 121, 127, 139, 147, 159, 165] sts.

Work as for Front Rib Band from ** to end.

Sleeves (make two)

Using larger needles for working short circumference in the round and starting at center of underarm, pick up and knit 2[3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10] sts from underarm, knit 52[54, 56, 58, 62, 64, 68, 70, 74] from held Sleeve sts, then pick up and knit 2[3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10] sts to center of underarm. Pm and join to work in the round. 56[60, 64, 68, 74, 78, 84, 88, 94] sts.

Round 1: P3, knit to last 3 sts, P3.
Round 2: Knit.
Repeat Rounds 1-2 for pattern.

Cont in patt until Sleeve measures 1.5[1.5, 1.5, 1, 1, 1, 0.5, 0.5, 0.5] inches / 4[4, 4, 2.5, 2.5, 2.5, 1.5, 1.5, 1.5] cm

Shape Sleeve:
Dec round: Work 3 sts in garter patt, k1, k2tog, knit to last 6 sts, ssk, k1, work 3 sts in garter patt. 2 sts decreased.
Work 7[6, 4, 3, 3, 2, 2, 1, 1] rounds even in patt.
Repeat last 8[7, 5, 4, 4, 3, 3, 2, 2] rounds 3[4, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 8, 9] more times. 48[50, 54, 56, 60, 62, 66, 70, 74] sts.

Work even in garter st and St st as est until Sleeve measures 7[7, 7, 7.5, 7.5, 7.5, 8, 8, 8] inches / 18[18, 18, 19, 19, 19, 20.5, 20.5, 20.5] cm from underarm or 1.5 inches / 4cm shorter than desired total length.

Change to smaller needle.

Rib round: (K1, p1) around.
Rep Rib round 8 times more.
BO in rib patt with larger needle.

FINISHING

Neckband
Place 84[91, 98, 90, 96, 102, 90, 95, 100] sts from waste yarn onto larger needles for working short circumference in the round. Start of round is at center-back neck.

With project yarn, cast on 3 sts onto LH needle.

Work I-cord BO as follows:
Row 1 [RS]: K2, SSK, slip 3 sts from RH needle back to LH needle.
Rep Row 1 until only 3 sts rem. Cast off.

Join cast-on to cast-off edge.

Weave in ends. Block gently to finished measurements.

A – Neck circumference:  16.75[18.25, 19.5, 18, 19.25, 20.5, 18, 19, 20] inches / 42.5[46.5, 49.5, 45.5, 49, 52, 45.5, 48.5, 51] cm
B – Yoke depth: 7[7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5, 9.75, 10, 10.25] inches / 18[19, 20.5, 21.5, 23, 24, 25, 25.5, 26] cm
C – Chest circumference:  31.25[35.5, 39.5, 43.75, 47.25, 51.5, 54.75, 59, 62.5] inches / 79.5[90, 100.5, 111, 120, 131, 139, 150, 159] cm
D – Body length: 12.5 inches / 32 cm
E – Hem circumference:  35.25[39.5, 43.5, 47.75, 51.25, 55.5, 58.75, 63, 66.5] inches / 89.5[100.5, 110.5, 121.5, 130, 141, 149, 160, 169] cm
F – Upper arm circumference:  11.25[12, 12.75, 13.5, 14.75, 15.5, 16.75, 17.5, 18.75] inches / 28.5[30.5, 32.5, 34.5, 37.5, 39.5, 42.5, 44.5, 47.5] cm
G – Cuff circumference: 9.5[10, 10.75, 11.25, 12, 12.5, 13.25, 14, 14.75] inches / 24[25.5, 27.5, 28.5, 30.5, 32, 33.5, 35.5, 37.5] cm
H – Sleeve length: 8.5[8.5, 8.5, 9, 9, 9, 9.5, 9.5, 9.5] inches / 21.5[21.5, 21.5, 23, 23, 23, 24, 24, 24] cm

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

A bit of a nomad, Susanna IC has lived in two European countries and eight US states so far. She now lives in Colorado with her husband, two sons, and countless balls of yarn. Susanna has an extensive collection of studio arts and art history degrees as well as a rather large yarn stash.

Her designs can be found on Ravelry, Instagram, Facebook, and at her website ArtQualia.com.

Pattern & images © 2022 Susanna IC