Plaid World, a free knitting pattern from Knitty.com.

INTRODUCTION

Plaid World

beauty shot by Amy Gunderson

Tangy

Plaid is a timeless pattern that is usually associated with woven fabrics. But as we know, knitting can be just about anything it wants to be! This cozy coat features a blown-up version of big plaid squares with contrasting vertical and horizontal lines running through. The vertical lines are added later with a crochet hook and an easy surface slip stitch technique. Six shades for the plaid blocks plus one contrasting color for the lines are used, but this could be reduced to four + 1 color if desired. Read below for tips on color selection.

On top of plaid madness (plaidness?), this piece features folded hems, facings, and a big ol' short-row shawl collar. If you're looking to try out a new technique or three, this might be the project for you! A little extra work can result in a jacket that you reach for time and again for all your autumn adventures. The shaping in the jacket itself is kept minimal to keep the focus on the patterning and the extra details.

So – maybe having a dozen separate balls of yarn isn't your thing. But what if the result is a cool plaid jacket? Intarsia is the name of the game in this cozy tartan number. Try finding a project bag with multiple snaps to feed your individual yarn strands through to help keep things in order.

spacer model: Amy Gunderson

spacer photos: Alex Frankel

SIZE

XS/S[M/L, 1X/2X, 3X/4X, 5X/6X]
Shown in size XS/S with 5.5 inches/14cm of ease at chest. Recommended ease is 2-10"/5-25.5 cm

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Finished chest circumference at underarm with fronts overlapping: 39.5[48, 57, 66, 74.5] inches/ 100.5[122, 144, 167.5, 189] cm
Length to Shoulder: 26.25[26.25, 28.25, 28.25, 30.25] inches/ 66.5[66.5, 72, 72, 77] cm

MATERIALS

Yarn
Universal Yarn Deluxe Worsted Tweed Superwash [90% superwash wool, 3% viscose, 7% acrylic; 218 yd/200 m per 3.5 oz/100 g skein];
[CC1] 919 Merlot: 1[2, 2, 2, 2] skeins
[CC2] 901 Garnet: 2[2, 3, 3, 3] skeins
[CC3] 908 Navy: 3[3, 4, 5, 6] skeins
[CC4] 907 Denim: 2[2, 2, 3, 3] skeins
[CC5] 914 Charcoal: 1[2, 2, 2, 3] skeins
[CC6] 913 Smoke: 1[2, 2, 2, 3] skeins
[CC7] 925 Putty: 1[2, 2, 2, 2] skeins

Yarn Characteristics
The sample shown uses a worsted-weight plied yarn that is mostly wool. Most smooth worsted-weight yarns should substitute in just fine. Try to avoid 100% plant fiber yarns, though 100% cotton would probably work.

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below - every knitter's gauge is unique]
1 set US #7/4 mm needles for working flat

Notions
US# H-8/5 mm crochet hook (for surface crochet)
sewing needle
matching thread (optional, could use yarn)
three toggle closures
yarn needle

GAUGE

20 sts/28 rows = 4 inches/10 cm in Stockinette stitch.

Note: gauge is always taken after blocking.

PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

Construction Method: Back, fronts, and sleeves are made flat from the bottom up. Front facings are made separately and seamed to the fronts on the inside. Both the front and the front facings include the back collar.

Colors are changed using the intarsia method. Use a separate ball of yarn for each color section. Reverse stockinette stitch columns are later adorned with CC7 for the vertical plaid lines using applied crochet. Note that due to single row CC7 horizontal stripes in the chart, two RS rows and two WS rows will have to be worked in a row.

As shown, this project uses six colors for the plaid blocks and one color for the contrasting lines. If you're looking to develop a different color scheme, try at first to keep four of the colors (for example, the two grays and two blues), and swap in two medium, and dark versions of another color, such as green. You don't want any of the block colors to be too terribly light, because they will need to contrast with the color of the lines which are very pale.

This project would also work well in four colors (plus 1 for the lines), though a little less complex looking. If you decide to go this route, choose two base colors for the blocks (such as red and gray), and then select medium and dark versions of each. Keep the color of the lines light and pale so it contrasts with the blocks.

Sloped Bind-off: On the row just before a bind-off, slip the last st without working it. On the bind-off row, slip the first two sts, pass the first st over the second, bind off rem sts as usual.

CHARTS

sleeve chart | collar chart | front body chart for M/L, 3x/4x | back body chart for M/L, 3x/4x
front body chart for XS/S, 1x/2x, 5x/6x | back body chart for XS/S, 1x/2x, 5x/6x

DIRECTIONS

BACK

Hem
Size XS/S[-, 1X/2X, -, 5X/6X] only:
Cast on 12 sts with CC2[-, CC6, -, CC2] , (cast on 11 sts with CC1[-, CC5, -, CC1] , cast on 11 sts with CC2[-, CC6, -, CC2] 4[-, 6, -, 8] times), cast on 1 st with CC2[-, CC6, -, CC2 – 101] sts.

Sizes -[M/L, -, 3X/4X, -] only:
Cast on 12 sts with –[CC1, -, CC5, -] , (cast on 11 sts with –[CC2, -, CC6, -] , cast on 11 sts with –[CC1, -, CC5, -] –[5, -, 7, ] times, cast on 1 st with –[CC1, -, CC5, -] – -[123, -, 167, -] sts.

All Sizes: There are 9[11, 13, 15, 17] total color sections. Beginning with a RS/knit row, work in St st for 7 rows, changing colors as established.
Turning row [WS]: P1, knit to last st, p1. Note: This row will cause the first 8 rows to fold up and to the inside of the cardigan.

Main Back
Beginning with Row 1[1, 71, 71, 57] , work in charted pattern for 184[184, 198, 198, 212] rows. This is a total of 13[13, 14, 14, 15] squares tall plus 2 more rows in the next color sequence. By beginning on the listed rows, every size will end at the shoulder with blue.

Shape shoulders:
Continuing to maintain charted pattern and using the sloped method, bind off 5[7, 9, 11, 13] sts at beg of next 4 rows, 6[7, 9, 11, 13] at beg of next 2 rows, 6[8, 9, 11, 13] sts at beg of next 2 rows, 6[8, 10, 11, 13] sts at beg of next 2 rows, and 6[8, 10, 12, 13] sts at beg of next 2 rows. Bind off rem 33 Neck sts.

LEFT FRONT
Sizes XS/S[-, 1X/2X, -, 5X/6X] only:
Cast on 12 sts with CC1[-, CC5, -, CC1] , (cast on 11 sts with CC2[-, CC6, -, CC2] , cast on 11 sts with CC1[-, CC5, -, CC1] 2[-, 3, -, 4] times, cast on 1 st with CC1[-, CC5, -, CC1] – 57[-, 79, -, 101] sts.

Sizes -[M/L, -, 3X/4X, -] only:
Cast on 1 st with –[CC1, -, CC5, -] , (cast on 11 sts with -[CC1, -, CC5, -] , cast on 11 sts with –[CC2, -, CC6, -] –[3, -, 4, -] times, cast on 1 st with –[CC2, -, CC5, -] – -[68, -, 90, -] sts.

All Sizes: There are 5[6, 7, 8, 9] total color sections. Beginning with a RS/knit row, work in St st for 7 rows, changing colors as established.
Turning row [WS]: P1, knit to last st, p1. Note: This row will cause the first 8 rows to fold up and to the inside of the cardigan.

Main Left Front
Beginning with Row 1[1, 71, 71, 57] , work in charted pattern for 184[184, 198, 198, 212] rows. This is a total of 13[13, 14, 14, 15] squares tall plus 2 more rows in the next color sequence. By beginning on the listed rows, every size will end at the shoulder with blue.

Shape shoulders:
Continuing to maintain charted pattern and using the sloped method, bind off 5[7, 9, 11, 12] sts at beg of next RS row, 5[7, 9, 11, 14] sts at beg of next 2 RS rows, 6[7, 9, 11, 13] sts at beg of next RS row, 6[8, 9, 11, 13] sts at beg of next RS row, and 6[8, 10, 11, 13] sts at beg of next RS row. 24 sts rem for Collar.
Work 1 more row in established color pattern.

Shape collar with short rows:
Work Rows 1-49 of collar chart. When encountering wrapped sts, work the wrap together with the stitch. Bind off all sts.

RIGHT FRONT
Sizes XS/S[-, 1X/2X, -, 5X/6X] only:
Cast on as for Left Front.

Sizes -[M/L, -, 3X/4X, -] only:
Cast on 1 st with –[CC2, -, CC6, -] , (cast on 11 sts with -[CC2, -, CC6, -] , cast on 11 sts with –[CC1, -, CC5, -] –[3, -, 4, -] times, cast on 1 st with –[CC1, -, CC6, -] – -[68, -, 90, -] sts.

All Sizes: There are 5[6, 7, 8, 9] total color sections. Beginning with a RS/knit row, work in St st for 7 rows, changing colors as established.
Turning row [WS]: P1, knit to last st, p1.
(This row will cause the first 8 rows to fold up and to the inside of the cardigan)

Main Right Front
Beginning with Row 1[1, 71, 71, 57] , work in charted pattern for 185[185, 199, 199, 213] rows. This is a total of 13[13, 14, 14, 15] squares tall plus 3 more rows in the next color sequence. By beginning on the listed rows, every size will end at the shoulder with blue.

Shape shoulders:
Continuing to maintain charted pattern and using the sloped method, bind off 5[7, 9, 11, 12] sts at beg of next 2 WS rows, 5[7, 9, 11, 14] sts at beg of next WS row, 6[7, 9, 11, 13] sts at beg of next WS row, 6[8, 9, 11, 13] sts at beg of next WS row, and 6[8, 10, 11, 13] sts at beg of next WS row. 24 sts rem for Collar.

Shape collar with short rows:
Work Rows 1-49 of collar chart. When encountering wrapped sts, work the wrap together with the stitch. Bind off all sts.

LEFT SLEEVE
Cast on 1 st with CC1, (cast on 11 sts with CC1, cast on 11 sts with CC2] 3[4, 4, 5, 5] times, cast on 1 st with CC2. 68[90, 90, 112, 112] sts.
Work in charted patt for 84 rows. Bind off all sts.

Cuff
With CC3, pick up and knit 68[90, 90, 112, 112] sts from cast-on edge. Knit 8 rows. Bind off all sts.

RIGHT SLEEVE
Cast on 1 st with CC2, (cast on 11 sts with CC2, cast on 11 sts with CC1] 3[4, 4, 5, 5] times, cast on 1 st with CC1. 68[90, 90, 112, 112] sts.
Work in charted patt for 84 rows. Bind off all sts.

Cuff
Work as for Left Sleeve.

LEFT FACING
With CC3, cast on 24 sts. Work in St st for 188[188, 202, 202, 216] rows, or 8 rows less than the total rows worked from hem to shoulder.

Shape facing collar with short rows:
Note: Work together a wrapped st when you encounter one.
Row 1 [RS]: Knit.
Row 2 [WS]: Purl.
Row 3: K13, w&t.
Row 4: P13.
Row 5: K18, w&t.
Row 6: P18.
Row 7: Knit.
Row 8: Purl.
Rep Rows 1-8 5 more times. Bind off all sts.

RIGHT FACING
With CC3, cast on 24 sts. Work in St st for 188[188, 202, 202, 216] rows, or 8 rows less than the total rows worked from hem to shoulder.

Shape facing collar with short rows:
Note: Work together a wrapped st when you encounter one.
Row 1 [RS]: Knit.
Row 2 [WS]: P13, w&t.
Row 3: K13.
Row 4: P18, w&t.
Row 5: K18.
Row 6: Purl.
Row 7: Knit.
Row 8: Purl.
Rep Rows 1-8 5 more times. Bind off all sts.

FINISHING

Work vertical applied crochet lines along all reverse stockinette columns using CC7 as follows: Insert hook from RS to WS. Holding the yarn beneath the work, pull a loop through. Skip 1 stitch, insert the hook into the next stitch up and pull through a loop (2 loops on hook), pull the first loop through the second for one slip stitch. Continue like this working into every other stitch until you reach the top of the column. Fasten off. Take note of your tension and try to match the knitted fabric. If you're struggling to do this, consider changing hook size.

Note: Use mattress stitch for all seams except where noted on Hems and inside of Facings.

Weave in ends. Block pieces to finished measurements. Sew bind-off edges of Right and Left Front Collars together. Sew bind-off edges of Facings together, sewing the innermost edge invisibly to inside of sweater.

Sew shoulder seams. Sew sides of Collar to back neck. Sew cast-on edges of Facings to corresponding cast-on edges of Fronts. Sew remaining three edges of FACINGS (all the way around) to Fronts.

Fold up cast-on edge of Back and rem cast-on edges of Fronts. Sew invisibly to inside of sweater. Fold Sleeve Cuffs up and sew invisibly to inside of Sleeve.

Sew SLEEVES to body, centering over the shoulder seam. Sew SLEEVE and side seams. Place FACINGS inside of assembled sweater.

Sew on toggles to each side of fronts, using photos as a guide. Try on the sweater for placement before sewing.

A – Back Width: 20.25[24.5, 29, 33.5, 37.75] inches/ 51.5[62, 73.5, 85, 96] cm
B – Front Width: 11.5[13.5, 15.75, 18, 20.25] inches/ 29[34.5, 40, 45.5, 51.5] cm
C – Length to Shoulder: 26.25[26.25, 28.25, 28.25, 30.25] inches/ 66.5[66.5, 72, 72, 77] cm
D – Shoulder Width: 6.75[9, 11.25, 13.5, 15.5] inches/ 17[23, 28.5, 34.5, 39.5] cm
E – Back Neck Width: 6.5 inches/16.5 cm
F – Sleeve Width: 13.5[18, 18, 22.5, 22.5] inches/ 34.5[45.5, 45.5, 57, 57] cm
G – Sleeve Length: 13.25 inches/33.5 cm

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

designername Amy has been crazy for yarn ever since she had some down time in between pizza making back in Iowa. She's been the creative director for Universal Yarn, yarn director for Jimmy Beans Wool, and has done knit and crochet designs for most major magazines. She also does freelance design work, technical editing, crochet chart making, and many other assorted yarny things. When she's not busy with fiber, she's probably playing tennis, at the dog park, or sitting in the corner being antisocial.